[Neversatisfied1]

Is there any other options to tap for feed and return lines on an N52 for an oil cooler without swapping to a n55/54 oil filter housing?

Just looking to cut some cost out of this upgrade project since the housing and adapter plate run ~$350 best I can find

Hoping there's ports somewhere on the car that someone knows of. Thanks!

[justpete]

Originally Posted by Neversatisfied1

Is there any other options to tap for feed and return lines on an N52 for an oil cooler without swapping to a n55/54 oil filter housing?

Just looking to cut some cost out of this upgrade project since the housing and adapter plate run ~$350 best I can find

Hoping there's ports somewhere on the car that someone knows of. Thanks!

No, sorry.

[Tom Droze]

Originally Posted by Neversatisfied1

Is there any other options to tap for feed and return lines on an N52 for an oil cooler without swapping to a n55/54 oil filter housing?

Just looking to cut some cost out of this upgrade project since the housing and adapter plate run ~$350 best I can find

Hoping there's ports somewhere on the car that someone knows of. Thanks!

Sorry, I wish there was. I recently added an oil cooler and I did a lot of research prior to. The only way to cool the oil and cut costs would be to use the European oil cooler radiator which mounts to the oil filter housing. This set up still requires the N54 / N55 oil filter housing however. This cooler looks similar to the automatic transmission fluid cooler the automatic cars have.

[W37V]

Originally Posted by Tom Droze

Sorry, I wish there was. I recently added an oil cooler and I did a lot of research prior to. The only way to cool the oil and cut costs would be to use the European oil cooler radiator which mounts to the oil filter housing. This set up still requires the N54 / N55 oil filter housing however. This cooler looks similar to the automatic transmission fluid cooler the automatic cars have.

E60s with N52 came with an oil cooler.


http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...5&postcount=32

[BudVlad]

Originally Posted by W37V

E60s with N52 came with an oil cooler.

It’s standard on N53 but it’s purpose is to warm up the oil. I don’t think it will cool much with engine coolant running around 100 C.

[KNS]

Originally Posted by BudVlad

It’s standard on N53 but it’s purpose is to warm up the oil. I don’t think it will cool much with engine coolant running around 100 C.

It may help to warm up the oil but its primary job is as an oil cooler. Real OEM and other parts houses call it either an oil cooler or heat exchanger. Also, its design is identical to those found on Porsche water cooled flat sixes - used as oil coolers.

Water temp may be 220-230* F at its hottest but oil temp can be pushing 280* or more.

I'm thinking of adding one to my N52 128i.

[Kirkies328]

Originally Posted by Neversatisfied1

Is there any other options to tap for feed and return lines on an N52 for an oil cooler without swapping to a n55/54 oil filter housing?

Just looking to cut some cost out of this upgrade project since the housing and adapter plate run ~$350 best I can find

Hoping there's ports somewhere on the car that someone knows of. Thanks!

Ecs tuning for $130

[Tom Droze]

Originally Posted by Kirkies328

Ecs tuning for $130

That is the oil cooler thermostat, in order to use that, the oil filter housing needs to be replaced also. The cost from ECS Tuning is $261.57

https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2986720/

[Neversatisfied1]

Thanks for the replies! Is there any consensus on whether it's better to run the stock thermostat with a remote cooler or run an adapter plate to a remote thermostat.

From researching it looks lock stock opens at a fairly high temp and still allows bypass but the aftermarket remote setups that I'm finding are all 180F and I was concerned about getting the right temp to boil off condensation during daily driving?

[justpete]

Originally Posted by Neversatisfied1

Thanks for the replies! Is there any consensus on whether it's better to run the stock thermostat with a remote cooler or run an adapter plate to a remote thermostat.

From researching it looks lock stock opens at a fairly high temp and still allows bypass but the aftermarket remote setups that I'm finding are all 180F and I was concerned about getting the right temp to boil off condensation during daily driving?

Improved Racing makes a 215F bypass thermostat.

[Tom Droze]

Originally Posted by Neversatisfied1

Thanks for the replies! Is there any consensus on whether it's better to run the stock thermostat with a remote cooler or run an adapter plate to a remote thermostat.

From researching it looks lock stock opens at a fairly high temp and still allows bypass but the aftermarket remote setups that I'm finding are all 180F and I was concerned about getting the right temp to boil off condensation during daily driving?

Lets start with a little background information; we know that the boiling point of water is 212 degrees F. It is my understanding the OEM BMW oil cooler thermostat is fully open at 238 degrees F. I had the ER Sport oil cooler installed which has 144 cubic inches of core area, as compared to the BMW OEM oil cooler, which has 41 cubic inches of core area.

Prior to having the ER Sport oil cooler installed my normal oil temperature was right around 250 degrees F. During the latter part of a track session I would experience oil temperatures of 300 degrees F. After the ER Sport oil cooler installation, and with the BMW OEM oil thermostat my normal oil temperature was between 235 and 240 degrees F. However, during the latter part of a track session my oil temperature still approached 290 degrees F.

As a test, I decided to install the BMS oil thermostat bypass valve, which allows for constant oil flow through the oil cooler. I have experienced the following: oil warm up takes a bit longer but not significantly longer and my normal oil temperature on the street is right around 230 degrees F. On the highway, the oil temperature will stay right around 220 degrees F. and on occasion it will dip as low as 210 degrees F., depending on the ambient air temperature. Now I have not been on the track since I installed the BMS oil thermostat bypass valve, but this past weekend I did do a very spirited weekend canyon run (200 miles) with the local BMW club. Last year during the uphill portion of this run I experienced 300 degree F. oil temperatures and this year my oil temperature never exceed 265 degrees F., so I am expecting the same result on the track.

I am not advocating the use the BMS oil thermostat bypass valve, as I am just relating my experiences. The good news is, it only takes about 10 minutes to swap them out, so I am most likely going to reinstall the OEM thermostat and use the BMS bypass valve for track days only.

As for the aftermarket thermostat, If you are going with the OEM oil cooler and lines, you need to give some thought as to how you will install it, as all the ones I have seen, install inline and it might be problematic with an OEM set up. If you are going with an aftermarket oil cooler with aftermarket oil lines, then you can plan accordingly as to where and how you will install it. I would not install a 180 F. degree thermostat, as it is almost the same as not having a thermostat at all. The 215 degree F. thermostat makes more sense to me, as it will help to keep the oil in the optimal temperature range.

I hope this helps you decide on what to do!