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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Valvetronic Broke- replaced it - throwing codes, won't start
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07-30-2016, 11:40 AM | #1 |
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Valvetronic Broke- replaced it - throwing codes, won't start
I got an 07 328i that won't start throwing codes: P1782, P1727, P1771, and U0100. after replacing a broken valvetronic motor.
Here's the backstory. I tackled the wife's valve cover gasket along with the one from the valvetronic motor, etc. Everything was fine. I followed the directions for everything *except* the valvetronic motor replacement, puttingput it back on before I torqued the valve cover down. (I know. It was really late.) I crank up the car without letting it calibrate the valvetronic motor. The car runs somewhat poorly then I hear the "clunk" from under the value cover indicative of the lifter cam snapping back due to the valvetronic shaft snapping. The car kills. I order another one and scramble to make sure there's no damage underneath the valve cover after I take it all back apart. (At this point I have it down to 42 minutes, flat.) I found the shaft, nothing else was damaged and wait for the part. It comes in, I put it on, following procedure this time. The battery is dead because of an interior light left on. I take it out, have it tested and charged and...the car won't start this time. Unfortunately, I didn't pull the codes before I started. And it was idling erratically and intermittently. I'm just trying to get it back to the way it was before I broke it to go to the next thing. Disclaimer #2: I know this entire thread is filled with enough reason for most of you to think I shouldn't even be working on the damned thing and you can level whatever jabs, insults, or insinuations you like. I can take it. I'm just hoping that one of you that knows WAY more than me can give me some insight. (The wife thinks the world is ending because her BMW is broke and I had to take her to work in my Mercedes. Because she looks like a Kardashian she thinks she should live like one. But that's another thread. And as long as this one is, it would be a HELLUVA lot longer.) Last edited by MykD; 07-30-2016 at 12:48 PM.. |
07-30-2016, 07:43 PM | #3 |
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Get a Bentley service manual. I'd take the valve cover off and mount the valvetronic motor and hand run it to make sure the eccentric cam is rotating properly. Also maybe the eccentric shaft broke the ESS sensor.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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07-31-2016, 12:06 PM | #4 |
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I thought about that. I have cleared the codes, checked fuses and fuses and connections in the box by the firewall. I also unplugged the battery to reset it. Still nothing. Still throwing the U0100 code. The Valvetronic isn't calibrating or moving when inserting the key. Also the cam and motor work well, at least mechanically.
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08-01-2016, 09:37 AM | #5 |
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I'm not deeply familiar with it, but when I replaced my wife's Valvetronic gasket the engine wouldn't start. I had to turn the motor by hand (from the outside, there's a hole that allows you to spin it manually) until it met resistance to get the shaft properly aligned, and then it fired right up. I didn't recalibrate it, but I thought recalibrating required a scan tool.
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08-01-2016, 09:18 PM | #6 |
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A buddy of mine who is a master BMW mechanic stopped by today.
The valvetronic was installed properly as per spec and spun till it hit the stop inside. That was verified. The codes have been cleared and a system reset performed by disconnecting the battery for 30+ minutes. All relays, fuses and wiring have been checked related to the valvetronic and DME. The correct voltage from the battery is reaching the DME. It's either dead, which doesn't make any sense given what happened, or the U0100 code can not be cleared by standard readers and is in need of BMW proprietary software to do a hard reset or clearing of the codes. My only remaining option is to tow it to someone with the correct software to see and/or clear what I can't. Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuudge. |
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08-01-2016, 09:47 PM | #7 |
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Drives: E92 335i PSCW-Pkg Montego blue
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Hi, I am new to this forum and have no clue about your problem, and wish you all the best in figuring it out. However, since the codes issue is partly what I am facing so I thought I would reach out.
Story: My car's oil change and brakes were due, I was going to put a new brake kit in so I ignored it and kept driving. I was going to change the oil soon as well. However, 2 days ago, a friend was running an errand for me while we were 60 miles from Boston. He stalled the car on a stop sign, and it stopped taking the crank. I was able to bump start it by rolling it down the road (its a 6spd) and left it running for about 15-20 minutes while I wrapped up to leave for Boston. I hit the road, and about 12 miles later, just as I got on the highway, it sputtered, there a bunch of codes, temp, abs, TPMS, battery, and the revs started falling... So I pulled over safely before it went dead. Even the flashers stopped working after a while... But it was not the battery as they came back on once the cop arrived... I had to get it towed home. Since it was a Saturday the dealership would kit have looked at it till Monday... Now I am changing its brakes and oil and want to know if I will be able to start it... Any suggestions, guidance, pearls of wisdom would be much appreciated. Thx
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08-03-2016, 12:58 AM | #8 | |
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Quote:
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08-03-2016, 06:04 PM | #9 |
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Looks like it's the ECM. It rained while I had the protective cover off of the box by the firewall. Didn't think it got wet. Evidently it did. Eff me.
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broke, codes, dumbass, wifesgoingtokillmedead |
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