[Alan512]

I have been Cobb stage 1+ for some time now and about every 500 to 600 miles of heavy driving some piece of the intercooler piping pops off. Has anyone else had this problem? Any advice to help resolve this issue would be appreciated. I have had to park and car and fix this about 7 times know. It's getting old fast.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Spray it with some hair spray where the coupler connects to the pipe seriously. If it's using a T Bolt Clamp, try switching to an old school worm clamp.

[Alan512]

Thank You for and advice I will give it a try. I just spend a lot more time then I should have trying to put the piping back in properly. It hit peak boost once and popped off next time. It would definitely help if the silicone tubing was longer. I don't think it is possible to run full boost at this time with there supplied kit.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by Alan512

Thank You for and advice I will give it a try. I just spend a lot more time then I should have trying to put the piping back in properly. It hit peak boost once and popped off next time. It would definitely help if the silicone tubing was longer. I don't think it is possible to run full boost at this time with there supplied kit.

I'm assuming the coupler is going on the pipe square with at least 1 inch of coupler on both ends?

It's a cobb intercooler mated to which charge pipe? Cobb ?

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

Spray it with some hair spray where the coupler connects to the pipe seriously. If it's using a T Bolt Clamp, try switching to an old school worm clamp.

Ribbed worm clamps for your driving pleasure!!

[Alan512]

I do have the Cobb Charge Pipe. When I lined everything up just right I could get around the thickness of the T bolt clamps onto the silicone tubing over the intercooler and aluminum pipe (when coaxed). The silicone tubing would slide onto the cold side of the intercooler at an odd angle and seems like more tubing might help there and where it connects to the charge pipe. The T blot clamps are also sliding off when are tightened. In the past I had the hot side pop off once. The T blot clamps weren’t torqued down all the way when I checked them not didn’t notice a leak.

[stanlalee]

The piping and intercooler are beaded (more like expanded) pretty significantly. If you get the hose and an adequate clamp tightened sufficiently beyond the bead it should be damn near impossible to come off. I MUCH prefer worm clamps (applies pressure more evenly around) and most T bolts supplied with kits are junk.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by Alan512

I do have the Cobb Charge Pipe. When I lined everything up just right I could get around the thickness of the T bolt clamps onto the silicone tubing over the intercooler and aluminum pipe (when coaxed). The silicone tubing would slide onto the cold side of the intercooler at an odd angle and seems like more tubing might help there and where it connects to the charge pipe. The T blot clamps are also sliding off when are tightened. In the past I had the hot side pop off once. The T blot clamps weren’t torqued down all the way when I checked them not didn’t notice a leak.

If the hairspray and/or switching to worm clamps don't work. I'd recommend just picking up a universal coupler that is longer. Cutting it to size if necessary and replacing it with the existing offender.

[Alan512]

Tried the worm clamp on the spot that was giving me the most trouble. It held up for about 10 times hitting full boost but another location popped off. The Worm clamp dose seam to be a nice improvement. Had a boost spike hit 19.8 psi on second run and was hitting 18.1 psi before it blew again. I'm assuming the boost spike was due to a leak in the plumbing. COBB is sending me a coupler that is a little longer and another T bolt clamp.

[cstmx_ryder]

I just went through this exercise last weekend while dealing with my radiator. The cold side FMIC coupler was BARELY long enough to reach and like you mentioned, as soon as I start tightening the t-bolt on the coupler, the T-bolt clamp starts to slip off the coupler.

So what I did is I just loosened the 'other' end of the coupler, which connects to the actual piping that connects to the CP, and slid the coupler about 1/2" down towards the cold side FMIC connection. Got the coupler on, with extra slack to clamp the T-bolt, while holding the t-bolt in position when tightening. That was the easiest and most effective way for me to deal with that at that moment.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by Alan512

Tried the worm clamp on the spot that was giving me the most trouble. It held up for about 10 times hitting full boost but another location popped off. The Worm clamp dose seam to be a nice improvement. Had a boost spike hit 19.8 psi on second run and was hitting 18.1 psi before it blew again. I'm assuming the boost spike was due to a leak in the plumbing. COBB is sending me a coupler that is a little longer and another T bolt clamp.

Depends on where the boost spike is and if there was throttle closure.

A spike with throttle closure wouldn't be real since the throttle closed.

Worm clamps definately help but you REALLY REALLY need tighten down these clamps on these couplers.

When I thought my clamps were tight I turned them another 3-4 full turns just to make sure and I never had a boost leak or one pop off.

I'm running ER CP and ETS FMIC though but still regular T bolt clamps.

Originally Posted by cstmx_ryder

I just went through this exercise last weekend while dealing with my radiator. The cold side FMIC coupler was BARELY long enough to reach and like you mentioned, as soon as I start tightening the t-bolt on the coupler, the T-bolt clamp starts to slip off the coupler.

So what I did is I just loosened the 'other' end of the coupler, which connects to the actual piping that connects to the CP, and slid the coupler about 1/2" down towards the cold side FMIC connection. Got the coupler on, with extra slack to clamp the T-bolt, while holding the t-bolt in position when tightening. That was the easiest and most effective way for me to deal with that at that moment.

I assumed these steps were already taken before making the thread. Perhaps I shouldn't assume but yea, always loosen up slack on another end if possible.

[Alan512]

Got the pipes tightened down with a new coupler and worm clamps. Still over boosting hitting over 18psi on sport map. I need to do some logs to see how bad it is top end. Did a quick search and didn't find much. I will keep searching and contact COBB on Monday to see if they can offer any advice. At least on my end throttle is open when over boost is occurring.

[unrealii]

Make sure you dont have any oil leaks (oil filter housing gasket). It can throw oil on the pipe, and cause the coupler to slide...guess how I know