[WreckerX5d]

So I recently have been getting a boost leak, which was remedied a few days ago, and now I still have this noise that sounds like a boost leak, but I don't think it is. My charge air pressure sensor reports fine/no leaks, but my car is still low on power and I hear a gaseous escaping sound under boost. This happens from 1500rpm and goes away at 4k.

Under idle I hear a buzzing sound near the actuator. I have a feeling this is it but I want to make sure.


EDIT: The issue is a part located in post #4, which is near the engine battery terminal and airbox donkey phallus. PN of 13627812806 and it's $30-40 at a dealer dependent on CCA discounts. I would advise to replace this hose, even if you are tuned. My work around was plugging the bolt into the turbo with some high temperature compound and that worked for me, but I am tuned and assume the risks, if any.

[shnaggs]

Have you varified that the turbo change over actuator stays at the closed position and stays there after engine shut off? I think it's around the 20 sec mark that it should stay before it bleeds down.

[WreckerX5d]

The actuator moved back into position. I think I found the issue. Everyone was complaining about a diesel smell (I'm immune to it now) and this could explain it.

[WreckerX5d]

Image fail.

[shnaggs]

Yep, that could be the issue. Hope that is all in was.

[sw1183]

Did you resolve the problem? Was that hose the only issue you had?

[knownoknow]

Just went through this myself. If you use an offthe shelf fuel hose, only do so for a short period of time. Order a new hose from BMW (30$ I think)
I waited too long and it ended up cracking and melting the pressure sensor. That cost me 150$

[WreckerX5d]

Originally Posted by sw1183

Did you resolve the problem? Was that hose the only issue you had?

Yes it was.

Another cheap fix (for those with a tune) is to just use some high temperature compound (2400*f) and plug up the bolt that comes off the turbo. This is what I did, and it has had that for a few thousand miles already.

[Yozh]

Originally Posted by Wrecker335d

Yes it was.

Another cheap fix (for those with a tune) is to just use some high temperature compound (2400*f) and plug up the bolt that comes off the turbo. This is what I did, and it has had that for a few thousand miles already.

If you plugged the EMP sensor feed then it would not be functional. Is that correct?

[WreckerX5d]

Originally Posted by Yozh

If you plugged the EMP sensor feed then it would not be functional. Is that correct?

It wasn't functional when no exhaust gasses were going into to it either. This may or may not be the best fix for it, but my car doesn't not appear altered in any way, only now I don't have any exhaust smell in my cabin.

I'm beginning to think that sensor is pretty useless.

[nicklockard]

For the new guys, where is the red boost hose? I don't see anything red under the hood. Do I have to take off the underbelly pan to check it?

I've been fighting weak power under 3200 rpm's. I'm changing the vacuum hoses this weekend because they all look original, but tonight I noticed a hissing sound when accelerating from 1400 rpm's to 3000 rpm's (can't hear over engine noise after that).

Where/how do I check it? I can't tell what the photo in post 4 is showing or why it's important/relevant.

[RollingCoal]

Originally Posted by nicklockard

For the new guys, where is the red boost hose? I don't see anything red under the hood. Do I have to take off the underbelly pan to check it?

I've been fighting weak power under 3200 rpm's. I'm changing the vacuum hoses this weekend because they all look original, but tonight I noticed a hissing sound when accelerating from 1400 rpm's to 3000 rpm's (can't hear over engine noise after that).

Where/how do I check it? I can't tell what the photo in post 4 is showing or why it's important/relevant.

The red boost pipe is at the lower front passenger side going in to the intercooler. It has a metal band wrapped around it. You can see it from the top by looking down between the motor and radiator area. It may very well look black due to oil leaking around it. If there is excessive amounts of oil on it, it should be replaced.

The part from picture 4 is critical for measuring the amount of soot in the DPF and the DDE uses the information to determine when to go into regeneration. It basically measures the pressure difference before and after the catalyst. It isn't needed for tunes where the DPF is replaced with a DP.

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by RollingCoal

The red boost pipe is at the lower front passenger side going in to the intercooler. It has a metal band wrapped around it. You can see it from the top by looking down between the motor and radiator area. It may very well look black due to oil leaking around it. If there is excessive amounts of oil on it, it should be replaced.

The part from picture 4 is critical for measuring the amount of soot in the DPF and the DDE uses the information to determine when to go into regeneration. It basically measures the pressure difference before and after the catalyst. It isn't needed for tunes where the DPF is replaced with a DP.

Here is a picture I took after learning the hard way how to properly seat the red hose back onto the IC. I had changed seals on both ends and cleaned up hose. I didn't get the hose all the way into the IC upon reinstall. The boost pressure instantly shot the hose out and I got a limp mode. It actually tore the seal in half. I replaced the seal. I removed the IC and got the hose all the way in the second time. I reinstalled the IC with red hose on and attached opposite end of hose onto turbo outlet.

Note how I have the clips extended on the red hose inlet.

[WreckerX5d]

Originally Posted by nicklockard

For the new guys, where is the red boost hose? I don't see anything red under the hood. Do I have to take off the underbelly pan to check it?

I've been fighting weak power under 3200 rpm's. I'm changing the vacuum hoses this weekend because they all look original, but tonight I noticed a hissing sound when accelerating from 1400 rpm's to 3000 rpm's (can't hear over engine noise after that).

Where/how do I check it? I can't tell what the photo in post 4 is showing or why it's important/relevant.

That hose is located near the battery terminal and close to the airbox hose thing. It connects to the side of the turbo. It's easy to remove after the airbox is gone, should take maybe 2minutes total.

[nicklockard]

Thanks guys. I'll check it this weekend.

[Yozh]

Originally Posted by Wrecker335d

It wasn't functional when no exhaust gasses were going into to it either. This may or may not be the best fix for it, but my car doesn't not appear altered in any way, only now I don't have any exhaust smell in my cabin.

I'm beginning to think that sensor is pretty useless.

I still do not see how your EMP sensor is not utilized. May be your tune bypasses it, but that would be a bit unusual. What happens if you unplug it electrically?

[TorqueAddict]

Originally Posted by Yozh

I still do not see how your EMP sensor is not utilized. May be your tune bypasses it, but that would be a bit unusual. What happens if you unplug it electrically?

Yeah, that sensor saved me from blowing up stuff when i clogged my SCR.

[WreckerX5d]

Originally Posted by Yozh

I still do not see how your EMP sensor is not utilized. May be your tune bypasses it, but that would be a bit unusual. What happens if you unplug it electrically?

I have no idea why nothing has popped up because of it. I'll add a disclaimer for anyone attempting the fix I did and just replace the hose instead, it's a cheap hose anyway.

I'll test it out to see what happens when I unplug the sensor, which I assume something should pop up as a connection has been disconnected. It's one thing for the sensor to not read any delta in the exhaust pressures, but to lose a connection in its entirety is another story.