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Stabilizing rear end on Dinan S3
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12-12-2016, 12:23 PM | #1 |
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Stabilizing rear end on Dinan S3
New to the forum, big salute to all who contribute!!
So I picked up a (near) complete signature stage 3 Dinan 335i coupe. Car has the following Dinan mods: Intercooler Oil cooler CAI Stage 3 software Sway bars f/r Springs koni yellows Shock mounts Diffsonlne three clutch 45/45 LSD Forged Dinan 19" with 265/30 f and 275/30 r 25000 miles and MiNT Problem is that the car was built with stock subframe bushings and stock RTABs ![]() ![]() The additional rubber and torque are displacing the rear end and torque steers from the rear. Under load feels like my e36 used to with worn RTABS... Did a few searches and looks like the turner solid sf bushings do not add significant NVH and seem like a good remedy. Talked to Turner and they feel like I would not need RTABs since the mileage is so low and most of the rear end stability gains would be had by the sfb vs the RTABs if they are in good condition. Thought I would run it by the brain trust here and see what you think. But since the trailing arms have to be dropped to drop the subframe to do the sf bushings it wouldn't be much of an additional cost. Whadda ya think? Also was thinking locking the diff, although Turner didn't seem to think it was necessary. I currently have no issues with wheel hop. If recommended is the vwettish piece the preferred way to go? Anyway, thanks for taking a look, happy to be part of this community!! |
12-12-2016, 06:22 PM | #3 |
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Car looks great! Just needs spacers. Most seem to do Subframe bushings of choice and sometimes solid diff bushings. I've never been in a 335 that had a squirrely rear end but those who have seem to have good results just from what I mentioned.
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12-12-2016, 07:27 PM | #4 |
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Definitely do alloy or delrin rear subframe bushes. This is where the rear axle precision would come from. I would not rule out the stock toe links as the bushings are pretty squishy there. Check that area out as well. Fwiw the current m3, cla45 and other performance cars are now all coming with solidly mounted rear Subframes from factory. the stock bushes are very very soft (even the e9x m3 ones are soft).
That said, have you verified that the alignment is spot on? |
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12-13-2016, 07:40 AM | #5 |
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Hey thanks Why and Boro! I am going with the Turner solid aluminum for the SF. Most search results say moderate to no increased NVH with the solid SF bushings, but significant increase for solid RTABs. Any suggestions for low NVH RTABs that will still help?
Thanks!!!! |
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12-13-2016, 08:53 AM | #6 |
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Boro - good point on alignment! Seems ok but wanted to wait on bushing install before doing. As far as contributing to the feeling of rear end deflection, there are just too many driving dynamics indications that the stock SF bushings are being overwhelmed vs an alignment only issue...imo. But will do four wheel alignment after the bushing install.
Any recommendations on the current diff lock that is favored? Most of the searches Returned were pretty old... |
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12-13-2016, 09:01 AM | #7 |
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And, just to get this out if the way...
I agree with the forum consensus on Dinan. Overpriced and underperforming. I, however, paid pennies on the dollar and the car in its current state of tune satisfies my objectives for performance....for now. I just want to put it out there that I am not a Dinan sycophant and am receptive to the notion that there are "better" alternatives. Based on my previous searches, I was just compelled to write that... |
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12-13-2016, 02:53 PM | #8 |
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M3 subframe bushings and guide rods will be suited more for a street car or even a track car.
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12-14-2016, 11:38 AM | #11 |
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Awesome! Thanks all!! SF bushings on the way, will report after install. Gonna do them first and benchmark improvement, then the diff lock, then RTABs (if necessary)
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12-14-2016, 12:48 PM | #12 |
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Either one works great:
http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=233 http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=230 I originally got the kit but switched to the plate. |
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12-14-2016, 01:28 PM | #13 |
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12-14-2016, 01:32 PM | #14 |
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12-15-2016, 03:57 PM | #15 |
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EXACTLY WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR THANK YOU!!
So, to hijack my own thread a little, I am curious about the interaction between E-Diff and an LSD. Part of what I am experiencing is a unacceptable level "torque steering" while traction shifts from one wheel to another (and sometimes back again) under load with wheel spin and DTC engaged (or DSC off). Also torque steering from the back under load W/O wheel spin. Hence my sensibilities about needing SF bushings. But is it possible that, since E-Diff cannot be disengaged, that braking the low traction wheel by E-Diff is contributing to the torque steer in instances with wheel spin? What are all of the performance implications of how they interact? Does E-Diff become a liability with an LSD? Last edited by Notdoneyet; 12-15-2016 at 04:03 PM.. |
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12-15-2016, 04:27 PM | #16 |
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12-15-2016, 04:28 PM | #17 |
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I'm running stock xi bar upfront with m3 swaybar bushings and brackets. I was really going to get rear adjustable endlinks but I guess I don't have to
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12-15-2016, 05:10 PM | #18 |
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12-15-2016, 05:20 PM | #19 | |
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Quote:
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12-19-2016, 03:20 PM | #21 |
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12-19-2016, 03:21 PM | #22 |
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You will find the e-diff(if you can even call it that) much less intrusive. Mechanical LSD is the way to go. BWM e-diff is brake actuated, nothing at the diff itself. e-diff electronics will not know you have a LSD in place, it will only detec much less traction loss.
M cars have LSD and traction control and they work seamlessly together. |
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