[dleccord]

I'm planning on replacing my 2011 m-sport to all yellow dampers and keeping the m-sport springs. when i adjust the rear rebounds, will i need to remove the damper in a way that will throw my alignment off?

thanks,
cody

nah

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by dleccord

I'm planning on replacing my 2011 m-sport to all yellow dampers and keeping the m-sport springs. when i adjust the rear rebounds, will i need to remove the damper in a way that will throw my alignment off?

thanks,
cody

No, your alignment will not change from damping adjustments on Koni Yellows.

Koni Yellow damping adjustment for the front is right at the top without having to remove the strut. For the rear, you will need to remove the shock to do it though. The alternative is to get these:

http://www.hpashop.com/Koni-External...11275SPTCK.htm

[feuer]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

No, your alignment will not change from damping adjustments on Koni Yellows.

Koni Yellow damping adjustment for the front is right at the top without having to remove the strut. For the rear, you will need to remove the shock to do it though. The alternative is to get these:

http://www.hpashop.com/Koni-External...11275SPTCK.htm

You can adjust the rears without removing them. You just need the tools and the know how, off course. Read here:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...2&postcount=12
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...6&postcount=17

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by feuer

You can adjust the rears without removing them. You just need the tools and the know how, off course. Read here:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...2&postcount=12
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...6&postcount=17

You do realize you have to overcome the internal pressure and compress the damper fully then be able to unlock the adjusting mechanism while keep it compressed to make the adjustments, right? And you may also realize that you are not able to do that with the damper still mounted inside of the car...

Edit: I guess you could do it(it requires much more effort for sure as you will be relying on your arm strength instead of just the weight of your bobdy), but you have already done the most difficult part by disconnecting the top, release it from the body and then you will have to remove the lower bump cushion, dust cover and bump top. You are only one more nut away from removing the damper and do it with ease outside of the car.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

You do realize you have to overcome the internal pressure and compress the damper fully then be able to unlock the adjusting mechanism while keep it compressed to make the adjustments, right? And you may also realize that you are not able to do that with the damper still mounted inside of the car...

Edit: I guess you could do it(it requires much more effort for sure as you will be relying on your arm strength instead of just the weight of your bobdy), but you have already done the most difficult part by disconnecting the top, release it from the body and then you will have to remove the lower bump cushion, dust cover and bump top. You are only one more nut away from removing the damper and do it with ease outside of the car.

Well, you do this with the car on the ground. No going up and down on a lift. Or laying on the ground if you don't have a lift which will require jack, stands ect... So over all is easier than removing the whole shock. I can do it anywhere at any time just need couple of tools. Effort wise, I guess you are referring to strength, if one doesn't have the strength to compress the shaft they they should not be working on the car at all to begin with.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by feuer

Well, you do this with the car on the ground. No going up and down on a lift. Or laying on the ground if you don't have a lift which will require jack, stands ect... So over all is easier than removing the whole shock. I can do it anywhere at any time just need couple of tools. Effort wise, I guess you are referring to strength, if one doesn't have the strength to compress the shaft they they should not be working on the car at all to begin with.

it is obvious the car needs to be at a proper working height to get this done.

My point is that you are only one nut away from making the job a whole lot easier. You still has to jack up the car, put it on jack stands, remove the wheel/tire and trunk liner.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

You still has to jack up the car, put it on jack stands, remove the wheel/tire and trunk liner.

No, on the ground.

[dleccord]

from what im hearing, the fronts won't be a concern since im not removing any suspension components.

however, if i'm going about Harold's method, I'm removing the damper from the car, won't this then affect my alignment?

thank you both for the input.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by dleccord

from what im hearing, the fronts won't be a concern since im not removing any suspension components.

however, if i'm going about Harold's method, I'm removing the damper from the car, won't this then affect my alignment?

thank you both for the input.

No, it will not as the rear is a damper only. The connection points do not determine any alignment settings.

[mike-y]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

No, it will not as the rear is a damper only. The connection points do not determine any alignment settings.

I thought the inner lower control arm bolt was eccentric and affected camber? Either way, as long as you only undo the outer LCA bolt on the back of the hub, you will not be affecting camber/alignment.

basically like this:
http://cdn4.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec...arge/pic04.jpg

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by mike-y

I thought the inner lower control arm bolt was eccentric and affected camber? Either way, as long as you only undo the outer LCA bolt on the back of the hub, you will not be affecting camber/alignment.

basically like this:
http://cdn4.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec...arge/pic04.jpg

The damper is a pin to pin configuration. One nut on top and one nut at the bottom.

You are right the LCA bolt on the subframe side is eccentric and the other is not. You don't need to undo either one to get the damper out so alignment is not affected.