[GTxx]

New to this forum and also to the N54 platform. Decided to make an account after being out over 3k for parts and labor by taking my car to the wrong people. I need help with quite a few things, hopefully you guys can point me in the right direction, thanks in advance!

First up

My "mechanic" says I have a small oil leak on my turbo which made sense to me since i have to add a quart of oil to my car every every 3 or so weeks depending on how I'm driving (usually very spirited). How long before I need a new turbo, can it be fixed and someone said switch to thicker oil?

Numero dos. This has been the priciest.

I bought my car in July 6MT and it was my first time driving stick when I drove off in it The next day I run into my buddy's buddy's Modded Camero and tried to race him leaving the DMV. Clutch blown. Got it replaced with an oem from the stealership at a crappy indy shop and didn't have much time to test drive it since I had to leave NC and be in NYC the next morning. Clutch gave me problems on the way home including a 40 min wait at a stop light not being able to get into gear. 3 months later clutch was gone again. I bought an F10 550i clutch and had it replaced but it still slips when im shifting at higher speeds. Replaced the pumps still nothing but this clutch feels a lot better than the last one. The clutch pedal isn't as loose but I still have issues getting into first gear here and there (pumping the clutch once or twice fixes the issue). Could the flywheel be my problem or is my car just not meant to handle more aggressive shifting?

3. Limp mode

Noticed that when I'm pushing my car sometimes it goes into limp mode. I've had a misfire on a cylinder but it went away somehow and hasn't been back. Safe to say I need a tune up? what plugs should I get if I plan on going FBO once i fix these small issues? Also how hard is it to gap a spark plug?.

4. Bike chain noise

Noticed when I accelerate and the car is winding down there's a noise that sounds like a bike chain when you pedal backwards. what could that be?

5. Installed the jb4 followed the instruction but the car won't come on. Long crank but it never starts tried a few times then gave up as I didnt want to damage the car computer. Any ideas?

In major need of some guidance. thanks!

[limitdown]

2007's and 2008's are very inexpensive to buy, and for good reason, because they're very expensive to repair and maintain, if you're out of warranty.
Be prepared for $10k to 15k+ in repairs, just to get it to the point where you can start modding.
I highly recommend going through all 10+ pages of this sticky for misfires. Essentially, you'll need to replace/address everything that is listed in the first post.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=631829
-Spark Plug Gap
- New Spark plugs
- Swapping Coilpacks
-New Coilpacks
-Injectors
-High Pressure/Low Pressure Fuel Pump
-Carbon Build up in intake valves
-Vanos Solenoid

For clutch, get one of the SMFW's that people talk about on here

[AM330i]

the oil leak on the turbo depends on where on the turbo, if it's on the inlets or cac pipe it could be normal, if it's on an oil line then it should be fixed. can't help you on the clutch, limp mode is most likely spark plugs or coils. or both. you might also need a walnut blast if it hasn't been done in a while. I'm using stock ngk plugs since I only have jb4 and nothing else. bike chain noise could be wastegate rattle. very common problem. you can replace just the waste gates but it requires welding. car not starting after installing jb4 could be that the connectors are not in the right places, recheck your work.

[GTxx]

Walnut blast and pump were done by previous owner. Is it worth it to drop the tranny just for the flywheel or should I wait for this clutch to go out first? Going to start with a coil and spark pack. I just watched a YT video on the rattle thats definitely my problem =[ How much is it going to run me for new wastegates and labor? Also I dont have the 30FF code popping up should I still make the wastegates a priority?

[limitdown]

Wastegate rattle can't be fixed. You'll need to replace the entire turbo. That's ~$3k+ for parts and labor.

While you're at it, change out all oil lines, coolants lines, vacuum tubes, PCV stuff (get RB PCV valve) valve cover/gasket, cuz you'll get smoking from there eventually. If you still get smoking after replacing all that stuff, then you'll need to spend another few $hundred to get valve stem seals replaced.

With the higher boost from the JB4, your stock charge pipe will break soon, so get a metal charge pipe from VRSF. BOV vs DV makes no difference. Your charge pipe and/or diverter valves might already be broken, which is causing the limp.

The misfires will come back. You'll do the merry-go-round with swapping plugs, coils, injectors. To save you from pulling out more hair, just nut up and replace all of those with new ones. Don't try to cheap out by getting "rebuilt" injectors on eBay. Those are fake. Also replace all O2 sensors as well.

While you're down there, you might find a crack where the plastic and aluminum meet in the radiator. Get a fatter CSF radiator.

If you're not sure when or if the water pump and thermostat were replaced, I highly recommend replacing those ASAP. It has been reported many times on the forums of this going out with zero warning, leaving people stranded. This is a very well-known weak spot of our cars.

The list just goes on and on and on (ask me how I know). Looking back on the past couple of years, I wish I had just done 90% of this stuff in 1 single go. It would have saved me so much headache, hair-pulling, and so much money in labor.

[GTxx]

whats the worse that can happen if I dont replace the turbo to eliminate that rattle?

[AM330i]

you can replace just the wastegstes but it is a lot of work, check out this link, http://turbolabofamerica.com/categor...o-rebuild-kit/. if you don't fix it, eventually you will start getting low boost codes. if your planning on going fbo anyway maybe consider upgrading the turbos.

[Wilkz]

Please, for the love of God, don't go throwing money at your car like this other guy is claiming. 10-15k is a stretch, esp with the problems you're having. Unless you like wasting money, then by all means..

Oil from the turbo could be an oil line like AM330i said. All depends but check elsewhere for oil leaks before you replace the turbos because of that. Things like the VCG, Oil FIlter Housing Gasket, etc..

Clutch I'm not sure of. Possibly could be install error. I've seen a lot of people run 550i clutches FBO and they're fine. So idk

Definitely should look at replacing plugs and possibly coils. Replace the plugs first and see if the misfire goes away. If not, swap that coil pack with another one and see if it follows. If it does, it's the coil pack. Don't go buying injectors/VANOS/HPFP/LPFP until you're sure you need them. It's a good chance they're going to go out soon, but throwing money at all those parts for one misfire is dumb.

For what it's worth, I had to get new injectors last year but I was throwing multiple misfires. You should replace them all in one bank (3) if you need to replace them.

Wastegate rattle is common and pretty much unavoidable. There are tunes that can help with it, and there's a fix for the wastegate actuator rod that might help. But these turbos rattle. Mine have been for 25k miles and I still hold boost fine, no codes yet. Upgrading turbos is really the only way to get away from it.

I never had JB4 so i can't help you there.

Don't buy a "fatter" radiator lol. That's not going to fix any of your current issues. Water pumps do go out on these cars and probably will leave you stranded. Hasn't happened to me but it's a matter of time. That is one thing I would say replace if you don't know when the last it was replaced.

Work on each problem and start narrowing things down before you spend any more money. Unless your pockets are deep like that.

[Sshec152]

Did they replace the slave cylinder and flywheel when doing the clutch? Usually when you have to oump the pedal to shift its due to the master and/or slave cylinder. Our brake and clutch master are one unit so id start with the slave. If you keep burning up clutches and they didn't replace the flywheel, it's probably glazed or excessive play in the dmfw because most places wont resurface our dmfw.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by limitdown

Wastegate rattle can't be fixed. You'll need to replace the entire turbo. That's ~$3k+ for parts and labor.

While you're at it, change out all oil lines, coolants lines, vacuum tubes, PCV stuff (get RB PCV valve) valve cover/gasket, cuz you'll get smoking from there eventually. If you still get smoking after replacing all that stuff, then you'll need to spend another few $hundred to get valve stem seals replaced.

With the higher boost from the JB4, your stock charge pipe will break soon, so get a metal charge pipe from VRSF. BOV vs DV makes no difference. Your charge pipe and/or diverter valves might already be broken, which is causing the limp.

The misfires will come back. You'll do the merry-go-round with swapping plugs, coils, injectors. To save you from pulling out more hair, just nut up and replace all of those with new ones. Don't try to cheap out by getting "rebuilt" injectors on eBay. Those are fake. Also replace all O2 sensors as well.

While you're down there, you might find a crack where the plastic and aluminum meet in the radiator. Get a fatter CSF radiator.

If you're not sure when or if the water pump and thermostat were replaced, I highly recommend replacing those ASAP. It has been reported many times on the forums of this going out with zero warning, leaving people stranded. This is a very well-known weak spot of our cars.

The list just goes on and on and on (ask me how I know). Looking back on the past couple of years, I wish I had just done 90% of this stuff in 1 single go. It would have saved me so much headache, hair-pulling, and so much money in labor.

Wastegate can be fixed without replacing the Turbo.

You can send out your turbo's to Turbo lab of America or buy their kit on-line.

[mweisdorfer]

Your limp mode could be due to faulty camshaft solenoids or dirty ones.

Try blowing them out with compressed air. If not, replace them if your over 100k.

Spark plugs most people just go with Bosch or NKG.

I'd run an engine flush and change your oil.

I'd also run 2 tanks of 93 octane and techtron, 20 gallon formula in a row and try and clean the injectors before I spent $850.00 or more on new injectors.

As far as turbos, you can refurb the OEM ones to spec or better than spec through Turbo lab of America or buy new ones. New ones would run you $1800 to $2200.00 in parts when it's all said and done. It's not a diy install for the faint of heart. ECS tuning has a nice selection of OEM and after mkt turbos and replacement kits.

[GTxx]

Originally Posted by Sshec152

Did they replace the slave cylinder and flywheel when doing the clutch? Usually when you have to oump the pedal to shift its due to the master and/or slave cylinder. Our brake and clutch master are one unit so id start with the slave. If you keep burning up clutches and they didn't replace the flywheel, it's probably glazed or excessive play in the dmfw because most places wont resurface our dmfw.

They replaced both cylinders but not the flywheel. What should I do about the flywheel should i burn through this clutch first or just have the tranny dropped to fix that issue?

[GTxx]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Your limp mode could be due to faulty camshaft solenoids or dirty ones.

Try blowing them out with compressed air. If not, replace them if your over 100k.

Spark plugs most people just go with Bosch or NKG.

I'd run an engine flush and change your oil.

I'd also run 2 tanks of 93 octane and techtron, 20 gallon formula in a row and try and clean the injectors before I spent $850.00 or more on new injectors.

As far as turbos, you can refurb the OEM ones to spec or better than spec through Turbo lab of America or buy new ones. New ones would run you $1800 to $2200.00 in parts when it's all said and done. It's not a diy install for the faint of heart. ECS tuning has a nice selection of OEM and after mkt turbos and replacement kits.

What oil do you recommend I switch to? Currently on Mobil 1 5w 30. Thanks!

[F30-3'ER]

+1

[F30-3'ER]

Originally Posted by Wilkz

Please, for the love of God, don't go throwing money at your car like this other guy is claiming. 10-15k is a stretch, esp with the problems you're having. Unless you like wasting money, then by all means..

Oil from the turbo could be an oil line like AM330i said. All depends but check elsewhere for oil leaks before you replace the turbos because of that. Things like the VCG, Oil FIlter Housing Gasket, etc..

Clutch I'm not sure of. Possibly could be install error. I've seen a lot of people run 550i clutches FBO and they're fine. So idk

Definitely should look at replacing plugs and possibly coils. Replace the plugs first and see if the misfire goes away. If not, swap that coil pack with another one and see if it follows. If it does, it's the coil pack. Don't go buying injectors/VANOS/HPFP/LPFP until you're sure you need them. It's a good chance they're going to go out soon, but throwing money at all those parts for one misfire is dumb.

For what it's worth, I had to get new injectors last year but I was throwing multiple misfires. You should replace them all in one bank (3) if you need to replace them.

Wastegate rattle is common and pretty much unavoidable. There are tunes that can help with it, and there's a fix for the wastegate actuator rod that might help. But these turbos rattle. Mine have been for 25k miles and I still hold boost fine, no codes yet. Upgrading turbos is really the only way to get away from it.

I never had JB4 so i can't help you there.

Don't buy a "fatter" radiator lol. That's not going to fix any of your current issues. Water pumps do go out on these cars and probably will leave you stranded. Hasn't happened to me but it's a matter of time. That is one thing I would say replace if you don't know when the last it was replaced.

Work on each problem and start narrowing things down before you spend any more money. Unless your pockets are deep like that.

What HE said!

[Sshec152]

Originally Posted by GTxx

They replaced both cylinders but not the flywheel. What should I do about the flywheel should i burn through this clutch first or just have the tranny dropped to fix that issue?

Normally id say wait until this clutch is burnt, but if you are grinding gears because of it, id replace the clutch and flywheel immediately. Id also have them flush your brake fluid and blled the system to ensure there is no air in the system.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by GTxx

What oil do you recommend I switch to? Currently on Mobil 1 5w 30. Thanks!

Amsoil 5w-40.

If you buy a membership, you can get 25% off their products.

[marcvtec]

1. Turbo gaskets
2. New flywheel needed, springs are probably gone on the dual mass.
Best to get a single mass and clutch combo especially since you plan on modding, dual mass can cause limps modes due to misfire detections etc.
3. Limp mode can be anything pull the codes off the car and take it from there, however plugs and and valve clean is a good start, also vacuum hoses are cheap replace them ( 10 year old car) like mine.
4. Wastegate rattle (normal) live with it or spend 3K plus for new turbos.
5. dunno about JB4
cheers.

[GTxx]

Thanks guys! Gonna see if i can find that leak tomorrow when i get my serpentine switched out. So I should grab some oem sparks and not worry about gapping and all that stuff for now?

[GTxx]

Whats a good website to order parts from? ECStuning or is there a better site?

[limitdown]

Originally Posted by GTxx

Whats a good website to order parts from? ECStuning or is there a better site?

FCP Euro has good warranty.
I buy from both ECS and FCP

[GTxx]

**UPDATE**
JB4 working now and i got some codes. Limp mode activates all the time now while driving, wasnt happening before.

3100 low boost mode engaged -- CEL displayed
2A80 Inlet-Vanos variable cam control test, input signal
2A85 Outlet-VANOS variable cam control test
2AA1 Camshaft sensor outlet, signal
2E8E Intelligent battery sensor, communication
0000 Unknown Fault
0000 Unknown Fault
2E85 Elctrical cooling pump, communication

i also have a log?