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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Oil Question
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02-27-2017, 10:21 AM | #1 |
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Oil Question
Hey Everyone,
I just picked up a 2007 335xi. It was a highway driver and has 99.4k on the clock. Always maintained at the dealer and had the waterpump / thermostat and High Pressure pump replaced within the last 30k. My question is since i just bought this car I want to do all the general maintenance to it to get it freshened up and would like some opinions on things. The oil I would like to run is Motul however I have seen mixed opinions on what to run. I know i need the LL-01 8100 X-Cess but do I go with 5w30 or 5w40 and why? maintenance i am looking to do if not worth it just say it. Trans / diff flush Oil Walnut blast Catch Can Tire rotation / balance / alignment For now thats all I am looking to do. I was told intercooler and piping is always a good option as well. Let me know what you think |
02-27-2017, 04:47 PM | #2 | |
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Motul is an excellent choice. do not go with anything except for 5w40. best engine protection - runs quieter and smoother then a 0w and holds oil temps better. other good choices are shell rotella t6 (which i use myself with good results) and liqui moly, but stick to 5w40 and change oil every 5000 miles. walnut blasting and transmission fluid change is 100% a must. do not bother going to the dealer for the fluid change though, they will deter you from doing it by charging you a ridiculous price. they want your transmission to break (more $$$ for them) when i changed mine at 67k, the fluid was disgusting and made a huge difference in shift quality. good luck |
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02-28-2017, 06:44 PM | #3 |
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Drives: 2007 Black/Black 335i e90
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Holly, MI
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Do brake fluid, & power steering fluid too.
Your coolant is probably good for at least another 20k since it was probably flushed out and new stuff was put in when they did the water pump and thermostat. 5w-40 will provide the best protection. Mann filters I'd tell you to get Amsoil. If you become a member, they will give you 25% off. Amsoil makes every fluid for our cars. Also, invest in a Rob Beck pvc valve and cover and buy a new crank case vent hose and change it every 50k. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products?keywords=11157553949 |
02-28-2017, 06:57 PM | #4 | |
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Regarding oil, every person has their own opinion and you can read until your eyes bleed. Generally, people use 0w-30, 0w-40, 5w-30 and 5w-40 in our cars unless there's some very specific need. If you're in a HOT climate, you'd probably be best leaning toward 5w-40, whereas our friends to the north are likely fine with 5w-30.. For what it's worth, I'm in the Chicago area and "feel" like I'd benefit from 5w-40 in the summer with 5w-30 in the winter because my car is tuned and running higher horsepower/hotter when run hard in the summer. That said, I've relied on 5w-30 for 96K miles without any problems I'm aware of so far. I'm going to do UOA on my next change to see if there's anything strange happening. Generally, we're supposed to use BMW LL-01 approved oils, which are far and few between. A few I'm aware of are: BMW TPT 5w-30, Castrol European 0w-30 and 0-40, Total 5w-30 and possibly 5w-40, Liqui Moly 0w-40 and 5w-30, Motul 0w-40 and 5w-40, and there's a Pennzoil product, which is apparently related to the BMW TPT 5w-30. I'm sure there are a few others, but these are what I've seen. I'm currently considering Motul, Luqui Moly and Redline (though not LL approved) for my next change, which I'll do over this next two weeks. As to maintenance, since you don't know too much about the car, I'd consider changing oil, air filter, plugs, coils (if your going to add a tune - if not, wait till they fail/misfire) vacuum lines, coolant, power steering fluid, brake fluid, trans and diff oils. I'd also pull the wheels, clean and re-grease your brakes and get a good look at them and suspension parts. Many folks do this once a year for peace of mind -- good to plan when swapping winter/summer wheels and tires if you're into that. Walnut blast is likely a big benefit. If you're doing that, you may ask the mechanic to do intake manifold gaskets and TB gasket as well as Oil Filter Housing Gasket and thermostat since they're in the area. All of this will cost $500-$700(??), but if you're there, it may make sense depending on finances. These are common points of failure and there's some savings by doing it all together rather than twice. Oil catch can is pure preference; some people love them and they're supposed to help minimize intake deposits. As for balance and alignment - that's always good stuff - but you may want to wait a few weeks to see if (1) you have any suspension issues you want addressed first and (2) whether you want to replace the existing wheels/tires for any reasons. No sense in paying twice --- as long as you don't have any immediate problems with alignment, etc...
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JWebb335xi
MHD / Wedge / 93 Octane/ xHP / FMIC / Inlets / Catted DPs / CP / DVs Last edited by jwebb335xi; 02-28-2017 at 07:02 PM.. |
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