[335e92tx]

Took it to an indy to replace the waterpump and thermostat (which had a partial open fault) at 129K miles. Drove it back home and parked. Never got very hot.

Later drove it about 10 miles and oil temp was over 245 (unheard of even in traffic). And then I got a temp fault and a low coolant alert. Didnt see anything coming out the bottom but in the length of time it took me to go 5 miles in traffic it got to 270. Shut it off and coolant (gradual drip) was coming out near resv tank.

Let it cool off and added water, comes out as fast as you put it in..

So either its bad assembly or its toast..and it might be one in the same anyway..

f80 or cayman time.


edit
Really liked this car... just fit with mods.. I doubt a f80 will work the same.. OR I wont go to the trouble to try to make it..

[feuer]

Could be just a loose coolant hose connection.

[///Mposter]

There are a lot of connections to the water pump, thermostat, and reservoir. Any one of them could cause a leak. Also , an improper bleed could cause air bubbles in the motor giving false readings but after you mention a leak, most likely a hose or clamp has failed.

[335e92tx]

yep, but I doubt I will hang on to it anyway. It didnt even get that hot at the track.. And that as 100K miles ago.

Oil consumption was averaging about a qt every 1K-1250 miles,, and the turbos are tired...
Not gonna beat on it for sure now..

[r4dr]

Originally Posted by feuer

Could be just a loose coolant hose connection.

Yeah... IDK how OP drew his conclusions.

[r4dr]

Originally Posted by 335e92tx

yep, but I doubt I will hang on to it anyway. It didnt even get that hot at the track.. And that as 100K miles ago.

Are you selling it because you don't want the car anymore?... I'm confused. A second or two at 270 will not kill a motor.

[///Mposter]

Everyone who has had a water pump fail while on the freeway has had the temp go up really high in a matter of seconds.

[335e92tx]

For one, it was not just a few seconds. Probably had temp alerts for at least 4 mins (and was at least 260-270). And no, at this point, I dont trust it anymore.

Along with oil use, I have been fighting a drivability problem that seems to be impossible to solve and as far as Im concerned this is just about the final nail.

Even if they just find a loose clamp, I will probably sell it.

I had planned to replace it in the next 9 months anyway.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by r4dr

Yeah... IDK how OP drew his conclusions.

Owning a 2007 335i with 130k will do that to you!

[335e92tx]

got it up on ramps but all I could see when water was added was that it came out at the bottom thermostat housing bolt. looks like a cracked thermostat housing.

[Velocity26]

I am not sure what I am missing but, the oil thermostat opens around 245 degrees and 250 is perfectly normal with spirited driving, and I have an oil cooler. Some people that track these cars with aggressive tunes see overheat warnings several times in a day. The water thermostat is also very high on these cars.

You don't need to give us a good reason for getting rid of this car, you are free to trade it for no reason at all ... no judgement here. But nothing you have indicated would spell a catastrophic failure of the car. I have seen factory turbos start leaking oil badly with less than 50k miles. Having bad turbos is a good excuse to upgrade them to bigger.

I somewhat understand the lack of confidence part ... I had my confidence shaken when my starter went out with 40k miles, it never gave any sort of advance warning, simply did nothing when I pressed the button when coming back from lunch one day. It took a while for me to regain confidence in the car, but it came back within a month or two.

Good luck, regardless of your decision.

[335e92tx]

Well, historically, even in traffic, for me, it would never go above 245. Even sitting at idle in tx on a 100 + degree day. It would go 245 and then drop down to 240 after usually less than a min. This time it stayed at 260+ for at least 10 mins. Nothing ever lit up red. All alerts were yellow. And the motor never got over about 1500rpm.. but still.

Eh, not sure I want to go the whole aftermarket turbo route.

Just got a call and they said it was a hose -but that doesn't help me sleep any better..\

I'm gonna watch it a while. I would not want to dump it off to someone if its about to crater..

[Velocity26]

I think that the majority of long term 335i owners have to come to grips with the fact that we are driving "Glass Cannons" ... they have the potential to be very powerful and fun, but they also have the potential to shatter for no apparent reason. People that cannot deal with that fact generally get rid of them pretty quickly.

[335e92tx]

Yep, I been lucky. Had it for almost 9 years and only had the standard replacements (starters, WPs, FPs).
Not a lot a freeways around here so I didn't hammer on it a lot..

But, I guess I'm overdue.

I'm retired now and $$s aren't too much of a problem. Was gonna find something I can put on a trailer behind the Diesel RV and hit some tracks (before my vision is gone.. and I plow the runoffs)

[weehe126]

Originally Posted by 335e92tx

got it up on ramps but all I could see when water was added was that it came out at the bottom thermostat housing bolt. looks like a cracked thermostat housing.

So take it back to the indy to have him fix it... Probably didn't clamp a line down fully.

[335e92tx]

Originally Posted by weehe126

So take it back to the indy to have him fix it... Probably didn't clamp a line down fully.

Originally Posted by 335e92tx

Just got a call and they said it was a hose (actually the clamp broke) but that doesn't help me sleep any better..\

I'm gonna watch it a while. I would not want to dump it off to someone if its about to crater..

.

[Velocity26]

I have heard a few people complain about replacing their water pumps. It appears that the replacement water pumps have a thinner mounting flange and the original shouldered bolts bottom out before they apply the proper torque to the flange. The vibration will quickly cracks the new pump. I have been told that the replacements require a shorter shouldered bolt that allows the proper torque.