[n55tracked]

Hey guys, so I have a 2011 335i that was completely stock at purchase. Ive had it for almost a year and since then have replaced 6 coils, 6 fuel injectors, 6 spark plugs and other maintenance items in order to have it in tip-top shape.

Well the mod bug bit and Ive been running PPK2 (installed tune + aux radiator) and BMS catless downpipe for 6 months and now recently installed a JB4 with Flex Fuel wires in order to experiment with E85. Dropped in 2 gallons of E85 and 5 gallons of 93, switched to Map 5 and had one hell of a drive for one whole day. The next day the morning started out normal though within 30 minutes of driving a "charging malfunction" light came on followed by completely losing power to the vehicle. It's as if the throttle plate shut and I couldn't accelerate, only for the car to stop on the side of the road. When I attempted a restart it cranked, all power worked, though the car wouldn't start.

Pull codes from JB4 and I get 2 for the IBS sensor and 1 for the Valvetronic Servo Motor. Replaced the IBS sensor since it was of the older design anyways and those 2 faults are gone but Im left with 2DCF which is "Valvetronic No Movement Identified".

As of now car wont start and only cranks. When I pull the plugs they were wet and smell more like E85 than gas so I believed my fuel pump was working though now I am not getting any sounds when locking/unlocking the car from the pump area. I also checked the Valvetronic servo motor for oil in the sensor connector (sensor and motor are one unit) and it is dry.

Car currently has 130k miles and Im wondering if the strong E85 mix potentially killed my LPFP? Are there always codes when a LPFP dies? I am on the verge of purchasing a new valvetronic servo motor though would like any input before purchasing the $400 part only to find it is in fact good.

Thanks in advance!

[sd306]

Originally Posted by n55tracked

Hey guys, so I have a 2011 335i that was completely stock at purchase. Ive had it for almost a year and since then have replaced 6 coils, 6 fuel injectors, 6 spark plugs and other maintenance items in order to have it in tip-top shape.

Well the mod bug bit and Ive been running PPK2 (installed tune + aux radiator) and BMS catless downpipe for 6 months and now recently installed a JB4 with Flex Fuel wires in order to experiment with E85. Dropped in 2 gallons of E85 and 5 gallons of 93, switched to Map 5 and had one hell of a drive for one whole day. The next day the morning started out normal though within 30 minutes of driving a "charging malfunction" light came on followed by completely losing power to the vehicle. It's as if the throttle plate shut and I couldn't accelerate, only for the car to stop on the side of the road. When I attempted a restart it cranked, all power worked, though the car wouldn't start.

Pull codes from JB4 and I get 2 for the IBS sensor and 1 for the Valvetronic Servo Motor. Replaced the IBS sensor since it was of the older design anyways and those 2 faults are gone but Im left with 2DCF which is "Valvetronic No Movement Identified".

As of now car wont start and only cranks. When I pull the plugs they were wet and smell more like E85 than gas so I believed my fuel pump was working though now I am not getting any sounds when locking/unlocking the car from the pump area. I also checked the Valvetronic servo motor for oil in the sensor connector (sensor and motor are one unit) and it is dry.

Car currently has 130k miles and Im wondering if the strong E85 mix potentially killed my LPFP? Are there always codes when a LPFP dies? I am on the verge of purchasing a new valvetronic servo motor though would like any input before purchasing the $400 part only to find it is in fact good.

Thanks in advance!

You could probably disconnect the fuel line under the car near the drivers feet and have that line pointed (one that comes from the lpfp and delivers fuel to the hpfp) into a red gas container (whatever those are called). I'd duct tape the line to the jug to make sure it doesn't shoot loose (leave space for air to escape). Then put the key in and press the start button without holding the brake and then quickly turn off. You could see if it's spraying gas into the container. I would think this would be an easy way to test the lpfp for free as ours don't have a monitor like the hpfp.

I know nothing about the other code, but you could eliminate the lpfp using that method. If nothing comes out try to crank it for a short period to make sure the lpfp is on. If the lpfp ends up being bad replace it Fuel-it's stage 2 or 3 lpfp (i run 100% e85 on pure stage one with stage 2 lpfp) versus stock. You can run up to 60% ethanol with it and the stock hpfp. I run Fuel-it's TBI so i can run 100% e85. (The n54s were notorious for hpfp failures, just thought i'd mention that.)

[Manic Mechanic]

I'm looking into this and you need to know two things.

One how long was the charging malfunction error message on before the loss of power and dying? Have you verified the battery is still fully charged? Make sure it has 10+ volts when cranking. New starters are super efficient and don't need a hot battery to crank an engine, been there done that.

Two what is the production date of your car? BMW has a Service Information Bulletin (SI B12 14 10) concerning this problem and 3 series produced between June 1, 2010 and July 31, 2010 need a programming update and possibly replacement of the servo motor and eccentric shaft for valvetronic. If it's not in the date range it could just be broken and not need programming.

If your battery isn't dead (below 9.6 volts when cranking) you'll probably have to do number 2. These symptoms and codes don't indicate a fuel problem, but you can spray a few seconds of throttle cleaner into the airbox or inlets and if it then starts for a few seconds and dies (better than now) you may have a fuel delivery issue.

Vernon

[n55tracked]

I will definitely check the fuel pump, though my car is a 06/2010 production date so I'm pretty sure that SIB applies. Now would this be covered out of warranty or is this a repair that I would have to tackle myself?

[weehe126]

If you are getting no movement errors for the servo motor your valves could be stuck at the wrong lift height causing it not to start. Not sure if it will do anything, but unplug the servomotor and see if it starts, might revert to using the throttle body. I'm guessing you will need to take off the VC and verify the eccentric shaft isn't seized.

[n55tracked]

Originally Posted by weehe126

If you are getting no movement errors for the servo motor your valves could be stuck at the wrong lift height causing it not to start. Not sure if it will do anything, but unplug the servomotor and see if it starts, might revert to using the throttle body. I'm guessing you will need to take off the VC and verify the eccentric shaft isn't seized.

Is the only way to rotate the eccentric shaft by removing the valve cover or is there an access point outside the engine?

I looked more into SI-B12-14-10 and pulled this:

Bmw: various vvt faults stored in dme memory. Service engine soon lamp is illuminated, and one of the following drivability concerns has occurred-engine cranks but will not start; loss of power; engine has poor throttle response (reduced power).

It seems people who had the issue had multiple valvetronic codes though the only code I am pulling from the JB4 at the moment is 2DCF. I'm hoping that the valvetronic motor failed vs the DME as from the N55 codes PDF thats available, this is all the info I have on code 2DCF:

• BMW Fault Code: Valvetronic system: no movement identified
  
• Fault Description: The diagnostic function determines whether the Valvetronic system moves freely and without resistance during the initialization routine.
  
• DTC Description: VVT-System No Travel Detected
  
• Monitoring criteria: The sensor recognizes when neither upward nor downward motion of 6* is possible during initialization of the Valvetronic System
  
• Potential problem source(s): 1. Defective wiring harness, 2. Valvetronic actuator defective, 3. Valvetronic system sticking, 4. Defective DME
  
• Repair procedure: Check wiring harness and plug connectors for electrical faults
• If other diagnostic faults codes related to Valvetronic are logged, work through these first
• Check Valvetronic mechanism for freedom of movement, wear and stiction (with external voltage source connected as required)
• Replace Valvetronic actuator motor
• Replace components with mechanical wear
• Replace DME
  
• Customer Perception Comments: Possible apparent symptoms: Once VVT has reached its emergency running position, unlimited throttle operation is possible. If it fails to reach the emergency running position, results ranging from a power loss to breakdown vehicle can occur depending on the VVT position that the system does reach.

[n55tracked]

Originally Posted by Manic Mechanic

One how long was the charging malfunction error message on before the loss of power and dying? Have you verified the battery is still fully charged?

For the "charging malfunction" it came on for 5 minutes then the car threw a bunch of lights (DTC, SRS, Transmission, etc.) and then completely lost electric power, screen and speedo went blank. The car coasted as if the throttle body shut and it was moving on idle power until I was able to pull it over to the side. I then took out the key and upon reinserting it all the power came back but the car would only crank. Changed new battery and IBS sensor and still same thing.

Originally Posted by Manic Mechanic

Two what is the production date of your car? BMW has a Service Information Bulletin (SI B12 14 10) concerning this problem and 3 series produced between June 1, 2010 and July 31, 2010 need a programming update and possibly replacement of the servo motor and eccentric shaft for valvetronic. If it's not in the date range it could just be broken and not need programming.

I actually double checked and found out my car has a production date of 05/2010, would the SIB still apply? If not, that a long with the fact that it is only throwing one Valvetronic code leads me to believe that the servor motor might just be dead due to high mileage.

[weehe126]

Originally Posted by n55tracked

Is the only way to rotate the eccentric shaft by removing the valve cover or is there an access point outside the engine?

I looked more into SI-B12-14-10 and pulled this:



It seems people who had the issue had multiple valvetronic codes though the only code I am pulling from the JB4 at the moment is 2DCF. I'm hoping that the valvetronic motor failed vs the DME as from the N55 codes PDF thats available, this is all the info I have on code 2DCF:

• BMW Fault Code: Valvetronic system: no movement identified
  
• Fault Description: The diagnostic function determines whether the Valvetronic system moves freely and without resistance during the initialization routine.
  
• DTC Description: VVT-System No Travel Detected
  
• Monitoring criteria: The sensor recognizes when neither upward nor downward motion of 6* is possible during initialization of the Valvetronic System
  
• Potential problem source(s): 1. Defective wiring harness, 2. Valvetronic actuator defective, 3. Valvetronic system sticking, 4. Defective DME
  
• Repair procedure: Check wiring harness and plug connectors for electrical faults
• If other diagnostic faults codes related to Valvetronic are logged, work through these first
• Check Valvetronic mechanism for freedom of movement, wear and stiction (with external voltage source connected as required)
• Replace Valvetronic actuator motor
• Replace components with mechanical wear
• Replace DME
  
• Customer Perception Comments: Possible apparent symptoms: Once VVT has reached its emergency running position, unlimited throttle operation is possible. If it fails to reach the emergency running position, results ranging from a power loss to breakdown vehicle can occur depending on the VVT position that the system does reach.

Only way to check is by pulling the VC. It's probably the easiest way to diagnose this.

[n55tracked]

In that case I might stop by the dealer tomorrow to pick up a valvetronic servor motor as I already have a valve cover/spark plug well gasket set sitting around. When I was talking to the parts department to ask if there were any one-time use aluminum bolts when taking off the valve cover and he stated there weren't any. Is this correct?

Thanks in advance and I will keep everyone updated when I rip off the valve cover tomorrow.

[weehe126]

Originally Posted by n55tracked

In that case I might stop by the dealer tomorrow to pick up a valvetronic servor motor as I already have a valve cover/spark plug well gasket set sitting around. When I was talking to the parts department to ask if there were any one-time use aluminum bolts when taking off the valve cover and he stated there weren't any. Is this correct?

Thanks in advance and I will keep everyone updated when I rip off the valve cover tomorrow.

You can re-use the VC bolts. If you do need to remove the servomotor you will need to remove at least injector #3 or #4, preferably both to get the servomotor screws. The eccentric shaft is spring loaded so be careful turning it also.

[n55tracked]

Originally Posted by weehe126

You can re-use the VC bolts. If you do need to remove the servomotor you will need to remove at least injector #3 or #4, preferably both to get the servomotor screws. The eccentric shaft is spring loaded so be careful turning it also.

Thank you for the heads up! I don't mind removing the fuel injectors as I installed new ones myself though Im glad to hear I don't need to remove all of them so I'll only need 2 decouplers. Will the cover come off smoothly with the other 4 in place?

When I checked the valvetronic harness I saw pin #1 to be missing, it almost looks as if it was pushed down on the actual sensor. Is this correct?





Also does anyone know the location of the actual relay for the Valvetronic? Using my build date I looked it up though upon checking in the compartment I couldn't find a blue relay.

[weehe126]

Just checked mine. Yes #1 pin is not there, mine looks just like yours.

[n55tracked]

Would you happen to know the location of the relay pictured above? I'm wondering if maybe the solenoid is not receiving enough power to move due to a blown relay which would explain no movement and no other faults.

[weehe126]

Originally Posted by n55tracked

Would you happen to know the location of the relay pictured above? I'm wondering if maybe the solenoid is not receiving enough power to move due to a blown relay which would explain no movement and no other faults.

I do not. I also do not have a light blue relay in the "box" under the cowl. Have you taken the VC off yet to see/feel the servomotor/shaft?

[n55tracked]

Originally Posted by weehe126

I do not. I also do not have a light blue relay in the "box" under the cowl. Have you taken the VC off yet to see/feel the servomotor/shaft?

I will be taking off the valve cover tomorrow and then check it out so I'll know what I need when heading to the dealer. Also I believe I located the relay, it is under the plug/wire as I believe the relay plugs into a harness though I will also confirm this tomorrow.

[n55tracked]

Small update, got to the servor motor and noticed that it was almost impossible/very hard turning the shaft with the allen key even when using a open ended wrench on the eccentric shaft. After pulling out the server motor the shaft spun freely. Once the new Valvetronic servor motor was installed it was again very smooth on adjusting the shaft to maximum lift. This leads me to believe that the old motor failed internally, either due to lack of oil or age.

One issue Im currently encountering is that I accidentally overtorqued the minimum stroke end stop and snapped it off upon reinstallation. I have a new one on order and was wondering if anyone had any tips on extracting the threaded portion of the endstop out of the cylinder head? Also would anyone have the torque specs of the spark plug/fuel injector buckets and the minimum end stop for the eccentric shaft?

[weehe126]

Glad it was only the servomotor. You will have to get an extractor from the hardware store. I'll see if I have any of the torque specs, but more of those should just be snug.

[weehe126]

And by snug I mean in/lb not ft/lb.

[n55tracked]

About to tackle removing the threads from the block today and finishing up the re-install of the valve cover. Weehe would you happen to know or anyone else happen to know the torque specs of the spark plug bucket screws (4 per bucket) and the minimum end stop bolt?

Also does anyone have any recommendation on flushing/cleaning the top of the cylinder head while the valve cover is off? I will be doing an oil change once everything is back together so I was wondering if there is a way to maybe clean anything I can.

[weehe126]

I can't find the sheet I had. But 12in/lb for the bucket and 22in/lb for the stops rings a bell. But really just get them snug and make sure all bucket screws are the same tq. Dont over do it.

[n55tracked]

Well the ez-out snapped and broke into the broken bolt. Tomorrow I'll be attempting to break the ez-out and retry with another extractor. If all else fails I might have to drill out the threads and then re-tap using helicoils.

Anyone have any tips before I tackle this tomorrow? Much appreciated!