[AWSAWS]

Hi guys, I need your advice. Basically the last dip shit that changed my front brake pads reset my idrive service interval (he told me they were messed up and he fixed them) and cocked up the settings. My rear pads wore down past what would have been minimum. No warning came on to replace them. Only after experiencing a horrible noise like a failed bearing and finding one of my rear wheels to be as hot as the surface of the sun did I realise. The brake was pretty much seized on as well when I jacked up the car.
I replaced the pads the next day at a garage. Now I notice that, that wheel is still getting warmer than the other wheels. The brake doesn't appear to be sticking on but there is a burning smell. Due to the heat when I've been driving. I had been doing some full throttle runs.

So I'm wondering. Could the caliper need replacing? Could the wheel bearing be shot and need replacing. I read the grease can cook off from excess heat. Is the brake disc likely to be ok? Should I also replace my brake fluid? I run DOT4 and it's due soon anyway. ATE 200.

Thanks

[AWSAWS]

This will be my first trouble shooting method after checking for play in the wheel bearing.

[GXCars]

The brake sensors cannot be reset if they have less than 10k miles left you have to change the sensor in order to do that so I dont know how many miles you had showing when they were reset.

If the wheel is still getting hot its almost certainly a sticking caliper or the slides are seized/sticking. Remove the caliper bracket and all of the mounting pins and make sure everything is clean and lube up the caliper pins and pad mounting guides with ceramic grease.

If the actual caliper is sticking its best to get an exchange unit unless you have the confidence to strip it and clean & replace seals etc, any inside scoring on the pistons and its scrap.

Seizing calipers are very often caused by the brake fluid not being changed and I always flush the system completely when changing it by starting by sucking out the reservoir first and then refilling and starting with clean fluid at the top.

If your brake has boiled then you'll need to do the fluid in any case, if its got that hot and eaten the pads I would change the discs but do ensure the handbrake shoes are OK as they are a bit rubbish on BMW's by the nature of the design

Hope that helps in some way

[AWSAWS]

Originally Posted by GXCars

The brake sensors cannot be reset if they have less than 10k miles left you have to change the sensor in order to do that so I dont know how many miles you had showing when they were reset.

If the wheel is still getting hot its almost certainly a sticking caliper or the slides are seized/sticking. Remove the caliper bracket and all of the mounting pins and make sure everything is clean and lube up the caliper pins and pad mounting guides with ceramic grease.

If the actual caliper is sticking its best to get an exchange unit unless you have the confidence to strip it and clean & replace seals etc, any inside scoring on the pistons and its scrap.

Seizing calipers are very often caused by the brake fluid not being changed and I always flush the system completely when changing it by starting by sucking out the reservoir first and then refilling and starting with clean fluid at the top.

If your brake has boiled then you'll need to do the fluid in any case, if its got that hot and eaten the pads I would change the discs but do ensure the handbrake shoes are OK as they are a bit rubbish on BMW's by the nature of the design

Hope that helps in some way

Thanks

Yes the wheel is getting hotter than the others so I suspect either the caliper is sticking a bit or the wheel bearing has been ruined.

Hopefully this weekend I can get the car jacked up and take a look.

I'll take the caliper off if needs be and grease it.

Minor niggles I hope.

[AWSAWS]

the bearing seems to be ok but the caliper is definately sticking.

I had it off at the weekend. Greased the slider pins and part of the pads that touches the plate but I think the piston is f**ked.

Got a new caliper. Looks like I can just unscrew the old one and screw in the new one. Then beed some fluid. Like so:

Any advice?

Thanks

[BradE90]

Sorry i feel like im stealing your thread a bit.

I have a 2006 e90 318i with the weirdest problem ever. I have cleaned both vanos, changed crank sensors, swapped plugs and coils and still have the same issue. During warming up from cold car runs fine. As soon as idle kicks in it gets jumpy and engine warning light flashes. Take it up past 2k rpm for 5-10 seconds and it stops flashing. Let off and returns to idle. After 5 seconds check engine starts flashing again.

On top of that the fuel rail seems to be at max pressure constantly and making a hissing sound like its leaking although i can't find any leaks on it.

Video:

[abeardo83]

Originally Posted by AWSAWS

the bearing seems to be ok but the caliper is definately sticking.

I had it off at the weekend. Greased the slider pins and part of the pads that touches the plate but I think the piston is f**ked.

Got a new caliper. Looks like I can just unscrew the old one and screw in the new one. Then beed some fluid. Like so:

Any advice?

Thanks

It is that easy. Make sure you pinch off the brake line or you'll be p1ssing fluid for ages. Take the opportunity to do a full brake fluid flush too.

[AWSAWS]

Originally Posted by abeardo83

It is that easy. Make sure you pinch off the brake line or you'll be p1ssing fluid for ages. Take the opportunity to do a full brake fluid flush too.

Thanks mate. I did the job before seeing your post just like the guy above. Only tough part really was getting the caliper off the hose it was on so tight.
Did a little bit of bleeding after the fitting and all seems fine.
I'm supposed to do a fluid flush around june so just left that until then.

[AWSAWS]

Originally Posted by BradE90

Sorry i feel like im stealing your thread a bit.

I have a 2006 e90 318i with the weirdest problem ever. I have cleaned both vanos, changed crank sensors, swapped plugs and coils and still have the same issue. During warming up from cold car runs fine. As soon as idle kicks in it gets jumpy and engine warning light flashes. Take it up past 2k rpm for 5-10 seconds and it stops flashing. Let off and returns to idle. After 5 seconds check engine starts flashing again.

On top of that the fuel rail seems to be at max pressure constantly and making a hissing sound like its leaking although i can't find any leaks on it.

Video:

Get your codes read, otherwise you are shooting in the dark at moving targets...