[Mik325tds]

Even though this is a fairly easy and straight forward task, there was some interest in pictures and tips on the fluidampr thread (http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1255658).
So here it is: The DIY for exchanging the vibration damper, aka: crankshaft pulley, torsion damper, harmonic balancer, etc.
Here's my shopping list:
1. Main serpentine Ribbed V belt: Part# 11-28-7-792-059, Conti 6K X 2063 or 6PK2065
2. A/C belt: Part# 64-55-7-793-608, Conti 4K X 830
3. Crankshaft pulley: Part# 11-23-8-511-371, Febi (unfortunately not Fluidampr)
4. 4x Bolts for crankshaft pulley: Part# 11232247932, BMW
5. Deflection pulley (if needed): Part# 11-28-7-790-448, Ina
6. Adjusting pulley/ Belt tensioner pulley (if needed): Part# 11-28-7-807-021, Mubea
7. Sealing ring (if Belt tensioner and pulley is replaced): Part# 11-28-2-247-187, BMW
8. Belt Tensioner (if needed): Part# 11-28-7-786-880, Mubea
9. Consider exchanging the thermostat while you’re at it.

I wound up not replacing the Belt tensioner and adjusting pulley since it was still moving freely without play or noise.

Tools to have:
- Belt stretch tool. I have ordered this one per suggestions earlier:
Lisle 59370 Stretch Belt Remover/Installer (Amazon)
- 24mm Socket for releasing tensioner
- E12 torx for crankshaft bolts
- Bore scope

Attached are the workshop manuals printed out from ISTA-D. However, not all of the tasks are included for this job and some of the pictures don't quite match (e.g removing fan cowl), which I'll cover in the following posts.

[Mik325tds]

In addition to what is mentioned in the shop manual, the charge air pipe will need to be detached from the throttle body and moved over to the side.
Also, working from the underside of the car, there's one screw that holds the transmission oil cooler to the fan cowl will need to be removed.
Working from the top I then unclipped the A/C line and moved it to be below the clips (see pic) and then lifted the cowl about an inch up. Then I pushed the cowl up from the bottom working to move the big clip for the coolant line of the oil cooler around the coolant line until it is free (see picture). After that the cowl lifts freely out of the engine bay.

[Mik325tds]

Using the E12 torx and the stretch belt remover I slowly turned the engine working the belt off the pulley.
It is important to only turn the engine in its running direction (see arrow on belt in below picture).

[Mik325tds]

Using the 24mm Socket, push the belt tensioner pulley over to the passenger side and then remove the belt from the pulley.

[Mik325tds]

If you don’t have that BMW special tool handy to lock the engine at the flywheel spine, there is a second way to lock the engine as mentioned by DreiD in this post http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=136 and below picture from Yozh.
As shown in the video and pictures, I used a bore scope to line up the holes and then pushed in a 6mm Allen wrench to lock the engine. Do not forget to remove the lock before attempting to start the engine!

[Mik325tds]

Once the engine is locked in place it is quite easy to remove the bolts using the E12 torx. Watch for the pulley falling off the crankshaft when you remove the last bolt.
Per workshop manual the new bolts (definitely replace the bolts!) are to be tightened crosswise to 40Nm and then tightened another 120 degrees. I felt that 120 degrees was a little too much (maybe my torque wrench wasn’t accurate at 40Nm) so I only turned each screw about 90 degrees in 45 degree crosswise intervals.
The rest of the assembly is in reverse order. Remember to remove the engine lock and turn the engine only in its running direction when putting the A/C belt back on.

[9krpmrx8]

What led you to replacing this?

[JT8Diesel]

Great write up and photo's! Thanks for linking the ISTA-D pages also.

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8

What led you to replacing this?

The old pulley looking like this:
It is a common failure point on our 335d and it can leave you stranded. Check out the thread mentioned in the first post. We are all desperately waiting for Fluidampr to manufacture one that doesn't break. Unfortunately, I couldn't wait any longer.

[JOHNNYBRAVO1]

Great job, thanks for taking the time to take the pics and write up. I see that Continental makes a harmonic for our cars

[TDIwyse]

Great stuff. Thanks for putting in the time and effort to take pictures and writeup the process.

[Torqu3]

We were discussing this on Facebook the other day. Tons of information on the Fluidampr thread, but no coherent DIY. You're amazing Mik325tds. First the DPF delete, then the transmission tune, and now this.

For all of you new people, there is a little "Appreciate" button underneath each post. Click it.

I also want to note that I had the OE A/C Belt after replacing the Harmonic Balancer, and anytime the AC compressor kicked on I had about 10 seconds of a god awful squealing noise due to the belt not making good contact. After the belt heated up a bit it was fine. Here is a thread discussing it: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=521957 BMW sent out a service bulletin saying to use a a shorter belt. Threw that one on and no more squealing. The issue only came up after I had the harmonic balancer replaced.

[Torqu3]

Can you please change what part number you have listed for the A/C belt. There is a SIB saying to use a shorter one. I've attached the SIB.

[335dsleeper]

I run this part # in both of my M57 powered cars without any squeak or belt noise.

11287520177

[Torqu3]

Originally Posted by 335dsleeper

I run this part # in both of my M57 powered cars without any squeak or belt noise.

11287520177

That is the part number it gives in the SIB posted. It's about 5mm tighter than the OE belt to prevent slipping and squealing.

[Hoooper]

So the right a/c belt part number is Contitech 4PK824?

[335dsleeper]

Yes. It's less than $12 on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Compressor-Co...ds=11287520177

Originally Posted by Hoooper

So the right a/c belt part number is Contitech 4PK824?

[Hoooper]

Damn, bought the older size last night. Guess Ill just get this one anyway, better to start off with the right size than be pissed later.

Orielly shows the manufacturer of 4pk824 as "metric". Lol, didnt realize the metric system had gotten into manufacturing lately.


If in a rush, it looks like NAPA auto parts stocks this part at some locations under the name Altrom, same 4pk824 part number so likely just a rebadged contitech part.

[dmanb2b]

Originally Posted by 335dsleeper

Yes. It's less than $12 on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Compressor-Co...ds=11287520177

Just a heads up...I ordered last night on eeuroparts, less than $8 but only makes sense if you have other parts to order, otherwise you'll pay shipping.

https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/324...4-11287520177/

I do like the speed of Amazon, but attacking my balancer a preventative. Drive way to much to be stranded 50+ miles away from home.

[Hoooper]

Originally Posted by dmanb2b

Just a heads up...I ordered last night on eeuroparts, less than $8 but only makes sense if you have other parts to order, otherwise you'll pay shipping.

https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/324...4-11287520177/

I do like the speed of Amazon, but attacking my balancer a preventative. Drive way to much to be stranded 50+ miles away from home.

Not speedy on Amazon, its not on Prime and it looks like the estimated shipping date is at least a week out.

[dmanb2b]

Originally Posted by Hoooper

Not speedy on Amazon, its not on Prime and it looks like the estimated shipping date is at least a week out.

Ouch...good catch. I must say, I ordered the belt yesterday at 2pm and it shipped same day...snail mail, but free.

[Hoooper]

Here is the Altrom belt I just picked up from Napa (had one in stock). Im going to say the Altrom belt is probably rebadged Contitech