[OmahaDZL]

UPDATE: After actually doing the replacement...I have updated the instructions


Has anyone seen a DIY on the HPFP change? Ive been looking and the best I can come up with on here and on youtube is Freelander pump change...

Anyone who has done this, it would be appreciated to post the steps. Heres my guess based on what I have seen..

Here are the special tools needed:
An M57 pump removal tool which consists of a centering ring, a threaded removal tool and a jack bolt
A 17mm hex
a 6 inch piece of 3/8 fuel resistant hose
a few hose clamps

1. Remove intake manifold.
2. Remove Radiator fan for clearance....I removed the serpentine belt too, because the tensioner was in the way a bit..
3. lock engine from rotating. (Not required but will make it easier when putting nut back on)
4 Remove 17mm hex bit cap from front of engine (there are 2 of them, open the one on the right)
5. Screw in ring portion of the special removal tool....finger tight
6. ENTIRELY remove 21mm nut inside hole that connects to pump shaft, even though instructions say to "slacken". When you remove this nut it will reveal threads in the sprocket.
7. Loosen the jack bolt on the other part of the special tool, put it in the hole and thread it onto sprocket (my kit came with 2 of them...one had threads on inside, one had threads on the outside...use the one with threads on outside, pictured in post #11 below) finger tight at first...then a little tighter with wrench.
8. screw in jack bolt finger tight at first, then slightly tighten to pretension pump.
9. Remove 3 nuts from back of pump (and fuel lines)
10. Crank on jack bolt in special removal tool to push out fuel pump, should pop right out.
11. Once Pump is released, fully back out the jack bolt ONLY and put on your bench, you wont need it again. LEAVE other parts in place, they are now holding your chain and sprocket in place.
12. Getting the pump out of the spot is a bit of a trick. I unclipped and unhooked the main vacuum line from the vacuum pump to give me a little more space and flexibility.
13. Clean surface of pump and engine, replace the metal gasket with proper orientation as seen in shop manual in link below.
14. Put the nuts back on in the back....tighten up, careful to keep pump going into hole straight...shouldnt be a problem.
15. Remove special tool with wrench (as your pump spindle will be now holding the sprocket)
16. Replace nut onto end of pump....tighten to 36 lb/ft (I gave it a little more). (this is where you may need to lock engine, I just put a socket on one of my harmonic balancer bolts)
17. Remove centering ring part of special tool and recap.
18. Hook up all your lines. I had one line that didnt hook up correctly. It was a white hard plastic line with molded ends....the end that hooks up to the pump had a banjo connection. The new pump doesnt use the banjo connection and puts the port in a diff location with a normal nipple. I decided to cut the line off and replace it with a piece of rubber hose.. We are talking maybe 6 inches at the most.
19. put everything back!
20. Now I have heard multiple ways to prime the pump....one is to cycle the lift pump by pressing the start button with foot off brake and waiting....multiple times..... I may try Rheingold to prime it.... UPDATE: I didnt see this post in time... but here is a way I wanted to do it (the way I did it was just cycling the ignition and letting the lift pump continue to fill it up ....be sure to have it on a charger or jumper cables though) http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...2#post21754742

OR if you dont have Rheingold but do have EDIABAS:

Update, Andrew from fixmyvw recorded a handy video since he had an engine out....

[da_trem]

Your steps are right.

I didn't lock the motor, just use a air gun to remove the 21mm nut.

[Owen81]

Where did you get your HPFP?

[da_trem]

From a german recylcer. Came from a 7 series between 05-09.

[OmahaDZL]

Well at least thats a start. What about re-installing? Anything that I need to do/not do?

As for where I got it.... ebay.uk.co And mine came off a e60 535d

[da_trem]

I removed the radiator fan assembly for the whole job. Dont even need to remove the serpentine belt.

Reassemble is simply reverse of removing. Air gun to tighten the 21mm nut. That's about it. Took me 2 hours to do.

http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_se...7t2)/page_492/

http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_se...7t2)/page_493/

[335dsleeper]

Thanks for posting

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by da_trem

I removed the radiator fan assembly for the whole job. Dont even need to remove the serpentine belt.

Reassemble is simply reverse of removing. Air gun to tighten the 21mm nut. That's about it. Took me 2 hours to do.

http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_se...7t2)/page_492/

http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_se...7t2)/page_493/

The instructions say to remove the splash guard and randomly drain the radiator....why!? I dont have my EGR anymore...and I think I could actually do this by removing nothing from the front...does that sound right?

The last bit is where Im a bit spooked because I ran into this issue when changing an injector....the part where it says to vent the fuel system turn the ignition on for 1 min.... I ended up with a car that wouldnt fire at all I drained the battery trying to get it to start and then after 45 min of trying..it just started.... SO.....when i get everything all buttoned up, put the key in ignition...foot OFF the brake and push the start button...correct?

This doesnt say anything about installation except for the damn gasket though....like....torque specs on the pump nut?

One thing that I did notice in the instructions that is VERY important...you leave the special removal tool in place until the pump is in....just take out the jack screw.....

[da_trem]

Originally Posted by OmahaDZL

The instructions say to remove the splash guard and randomly drain the radiator....why!? I dont have my EGR anymore...and I think I could actually do this by removing nothing from the front...does that sound right?

No need to drain the system. I'm EGR delete too.

Originally Posted by OmahaDZL

The last bit is where Im a bit spooked because I ran into this issue when changing an injector....the part where it says to vent the fuel system turn the ignition on for 1 min.... I ended up with a car that wouldnt fire at all I drained the battery trying to get it to start and then after 45 min of trying..it just started.... SO.....when i get everything all buttoned up, put the key in ignition...foot OFF the brake and push the start button...correct?

To bleed all the air from the fuel system (did this with my scanner), activated the tank pump for 3 minutes. Otherwise, simply cranking the motor will take a long time, damaging the starter motor and/or draining the battery.

Originally Posted by OmahaDZL

This doesnt say anything about installation except for the damn gasket though....like....torque specs on the pump nut?

I too didn't found any info on torque specs...that's why used my impact gun.

Originally Posted by OmahaDZL

One thing that I did notice in the instructions that is VERY important...you leave the special removal tool in place until the pump is in....just take out the jack screw.....

Yes!.. the tool keeps the pump gear in place and therefore not losing the tension on the chain. [/QUOTE]

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by da_trem

No need to drain the system. I'm EGR delete too.




To bleed all the air from the fuel system (did this with my scanner), activated the tank pump for 3 minutes. Otherwise, simply cranking the motor will take a long time, damaging the starter motor and/or draining the battery.




I too didn't found any info on torque specs...that's why used my impact gun.




Yes!.. the tool keeps the pump gear in place and therefore not losing the tension on the chain.

[/QUOTE]

Okay....so no need to drain coolant, but why did you remove the radiator fan? It looks like you should have enough space...unless your jack bolt is really long. What step needed clearance ?

So you used INPA or Rheingold to bleed air from fuel system, but you could have just put the car in "on" position and left it there for a while? It will automatically bleed air?

Based on what you said about tension....on the video on youtube the guy locked the engine, but you said you didnt.... so when you put the tool in...do you need to tighten it down hard? or just put it in "finger tight" and it will hold everything in place?

Also...how tight does the pump fit in the housing? is this something that is just going to slide in no problem or will it need anti-seize and sucked in with the bolts?

[da_trem]

I removed the radiator fan because I simply didn't had enough place to work with the air gun(for the pump nut).

The system wont bleed by keeping the key to on. You need a scanner to do so. I did it with my Autel maxisys, let it bleed for 2-3 minutes.

I didn't lock the motor.

Put the insert (in place of the original cap) finger tight only. Then screw(with a ratchet) the puller on the treaded gear pump until it is seated on the gear. Then remove the 3 rear bolts. Tighten the center puller bolt until the pump is released from the gear. Keep all those in place. The Puller acts as if the pump was till there, holding everything in place. Its quite clever!

[OmahaDZL]

After MUCH fighting..... I discovered the tool I purchased was defective....

Do NOT buy this one....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/351807065583


To be clear....both parts should be able to slide all the way through the ring part....mine didnt....because it wasnt freaking round...it was ovaled slightly....apparently they have no QA department...

Had to use a Dremel to round it out so i could use the damn thing......half a day shot...

[335dsleeper]

That sucks! I'm glad you were still able to get it done.

Originally Posted by OmahaDZL

After MUCH fighting..... I discovered the tool I purchased was defective....

Do NOT buy this one....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/351807065583


To be clear....both parts should be able to slide all the way through the ring part....mine didnt....because it wasnt freaking round...it was ovaled slightly....apparently they have no QA department...

Had to use a Dremel to round it out so i could use the damn thing......half a day shot...

[ninja_zx11]

Originally Posted by OmahaDZL

After MUCH fighting..... I discovered the tool I purchased was defective....

Do NOT buy this one....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/351807065583


To be clear....both parts should be able to slide all the way through the ring part....mine didnt....because it wasnt freaking round...it was ovaled slightly....apparently they have no QA department...

Had to use a Dremel to round it out so i could use the damn thing......half a day shot...

Hi Omaha, Was your HPFP was leaking diesel into the engine or you had some other problem with it?

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by ninja_zx11

Hi Omaha, Was your HPFP was leaking diesel into the engine or you had some other problem with it?

Wasnt leaking at all. Ran into the issue that has been discussed by Jarek that the stock hpfp cant keep up with the stage 3 tune fuel rail pressure requirements. after 17000 mbar it kinda freaks out and cant maintain the pressure needed. It throws a code and shuts down the car.

So....the hpfp from a euro M57 in an e60 535d can handle it...so thats what I got...


EDIT: Post #33 on this thread explains the reason for upgrading
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...1373133&page=2

[BB_cuda]

Omaha, did you only run the lift pump for air purging? Did you experience any prolonged cranking? Specifically was wondering about any air forward of the HPFP.

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Omaha, did you only run the lift pump for air purging? Did you experience any prolonged cranking? Specifically was wondering about any air forward of the HPFP.

Yes and yes.....my friend the bmw tech told me that when they replaced a fuel pump, thats how they primed the system....just cycling on and off. I have not had a great experience doing it that way.... However this time I didnt spend a ton of time fighting it.... Id try it for a few cycles and then try to start...but I didnt continue to crank on it long. I cant tell you where the air was...whether it be in the pump or the rail...all I can tell you is eventually it fired up...

The computer method was what I really wanted to do but couldnt figure out how to do it......rheingold is a mess...

[ASBSECU E93]

What is the part number for the pump?

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by ASBSECU E93

What is the part number for the pump?

Others, please correct me if Im wrong, but I believe this is the guy if you search for it on ebay.co.uk: Bosch 7788678


The other option is of course buying one from Jarek/Andrew...

[DieselOps]

Originally Posted by OmahaDZL

Others, please correct me if Im wrong, but I believe this is the guy if you search for it on ebay.co.uk: Bosch 7788678


The other option is of course buying one from Jarek/Andrew...

That part # looks to be it. The one I have on my desk has R 0 445 010 073. Which from talking to my rep at Bosch is a Mercedes Pump from the early 2000's.

He couldn't' give me anymore information as it was proprietary to Mercedes. The one I have I got from Andrew; we are going to do some testing on it vs the stock one. I have this one set to go and get bench tested for flow next week to see what it is capable of.

Mine looks identical to the Bosch 7788678 based on a few google results.

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by DieselOps

That part # looks to be it. The one I have on my desk has R 0 445 010 073. Which from talking to my rep at Bosch is a Mercedes Pump from the early 2000's.

He couldn't' give me anymore information as it was proprietary to Mercedes. The one I have I got from Andrew; we are going to do some testing on it vs the stock one. I have this one set to go and get bench tested for flow next week to see what it is capable of.

Mine looks identical to the Bosch 7788678 based on a few google results.

I could have been a little more clear on my post. The ebay listing for the pump that I installed and am running now....had that number. A forum member pointed me to that one. So Im 99% confident....just dont know if its cross listed as something else. But it looks like Dieselops has the other part number correct.

BTW DieselOps....looking forward to seeing the results of your testing.

[lnxguy]

Any advantages of running the R90 pump with Stg2.8. I'm guessing no, but I thought I'd ask.