[bluemidas]

Hello everyone! I have been lurking for a while, but just made an account to get some advice from you pros.

I have a 2011 auto e90 335i with the factory PPK flash, and the BMW PE. The car has a little over 70k miles on it. Recently I hit a bad pothole and had to take my car in to have the wheels realigned. While there, the techs discovered that multiple of my suspension components had worn out. They quoted me about $1,600 to replace the front thrust arms and struts, which is extremely high. I knew I was going to be tuning the car soon, so instead of having it fixed there I decided to look online for parts that I could install myself to not only save money, but gain valuable hands on experience with my car.

I quickly discovered that people often replace the factory suspension components with OEM M3 parts to improve handling. There are two suspension packages I have been looking at, and I would appreciate any advice/personal experiences you all could share. For reference, this is the comment the dealership made about my car’s problems: “R/F thrust arm is bent. L/F thrust arm bushing is blown. R/F strut is blown (leaking)”. I verified that the bushing was blown, and the strut was leaking. I have pictures that I can post of those components if anyone would like to see them.

Suspension Package 1: Much cheaper, but really only replaces the front and rear control arms. I think I would prefer this package if people support it.
Name: BMW 11-Piece M3 Control Arm Upgrade Kit (E82 E88 E90 E91 E92 E93) – BMWMCAKTFR
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...e93-bmwmcaktfr
Cost: $750.99

Suspension Package 2: More expensive, but replaces essentially everything but the shocks/springs.
Name: Front And Rear Suspension Refresh Kit - Level 3
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...1102283576ukt/
Cost: $1491.95

I also need to replace at least the OEM front right strut, but I will probably opt for a sport package that has the full set of struts/shocks/springs. This package seems to be a great deal (introductory pricing), and the online reception seems positive so far.

Name: E92 335i Coupe Bilstein B12 Pro-Kit Sport Suspension Package
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-2...nsion-package/
Cost: $802.95

Currently I still have 17” wheels with Pirelli run-flats on the car. I apologize if this seems like I haven’t done enough research to post for advice. I would say 90% of the research I have done so far dealt with going FBO, the need for suspension work blindsided me, and I need to get it done quickly. In summary, I would like to use the cheaper control arm upgrade kit, and the Bilstein B12 suspension package. What does everyone think? Anything I’m forgetting about (stuff like bump stops for the shocks, or tie rods that I should replace anyway)? Please correct any terminology/conceptual mistakes in my posts, as I am still learning!

Relevant Background: I am a senior in mechanical engineering, and have quite a bit of hands on experience with mechanical systems due to coop experience, and a few hobbies. Though I don’t want to blow like 10k on a car that blue books for somewhere around 20k, I have no problem spending about 4-7k fixing the suspension, adding performance mods, and tweaking some cosmetics. I have taken good care of the car since I bought it two years ago, when it had roughly 48k miles. I will be doing most of the work myself, but a good friend’s dad is a BMW tech who I could get to look it over once I’m done. I will also have the tires realigned right after I finish the suspension modifications. If this suspension work goes as planned, I will be adding a N55 JB4 tune, reinforced CP that supports meth injection, higher capacity FMIC, low restriction/catless DP, and meth injection. This work will also be done by myself, and the parts should run about $2,500. I will also be swapping spark plugs, switching to non-RF tires, and changing oil/transmission fluid during the tuning process.

[chris@strutmonkey]

The B12 Pro-kit is a fantastic upgrade over stock. Firm, but not unreasonably. Lower ride height, but not alot. Fantastic on curves -really shines. We recommend you get a fully-assembled kit that refreshes your strut mounts, spring perches, spring pads, mounts, etc. They will all need replacing at your mileage, so please don't figure that out when your car is on jack stands late on a Sunday night! Do it once, do it right.

Here is pic:

[chris@strutmonkey]

Another pic:

[mweisdorfer]

You could take kit no. 2 less minus the rear lower, front arms (you don't need them) and use it as a reference point for the number of parts and part numbers. You could save a whole bunch of money on the bushings, which attach to the subframe, for the lower, rear control arms by using Lemforder parts. They are the OEM provider. DONT pay for the BMW sticker (the BMW TAX). You can price out the M3 subframe bushings for about $260.00 or so. ECS does seem to have the best prices for those particular bushings.

At 70K, you are better off (short term and cost wise) just with option 1. HOWEVER, if you are only interested in doing this job one time from now until say 170k, I'd do option 2, plus M3 differential bushings and SS brake lines.

You could probably get the cost of the option 2 down to $1000 pretty easily.

USE -

http://bmwfans.info

for part numbers and what not.

I'd also buy a bentley repair manual and research like crazy on this forum and others regarding tools needed and tricks of the trade for each DIY.

BAV AUTO has a great diy video for the shocks and struts.

You will need a special 21mm strut socket. I have only seen them for sale at ECS.

[agustincuenca]

I will tell you what I did so far as it may help you which route to go.
I installed the following, you don't need the exact same but you get the idea.

- Bilsteins PSS B14s (only height adjust), I love them. Here you can go with what Strumonkey suggested or any strut+spring combo/coilover kit you like.
- An ECS refresh kit for coilover installations which looking at it in hindsight has more that you need, some of the bolts and nuts are not wear parts, but it's good as it includes strut mounts, washers and other stuff. But it's a good idea to refresh as much as you can.
- Meyle HD end links. Super easy DIY, acceptable price.
- front sway bar bushes, not really needed unless yours are bad.
- front M3 TRW control arms, 4 piece kit from FCP euro. This was one if not the best upgrade.
- All of the above running on Michelin PSS, also a huge upgrade.

you can try buying everything from FCP Euro, lifetime warranty and replacement, you will have a new suspension and all of it's components for life.

As of now, I'm really really happy with the car, how it rides and how it handles. I'm only missing the rear control arms and maybe subframe bushes, but I haven't find an excuse yet meaning the car feels good in the rear.

hope this helped you! GL

[Dan Bilzerian]

Ohlins Road & Track nuff said

[bluemidas]

Hey everyone, thanks for the replies! They have been extremely helpful while deciding on the parts I am going to purchase. Instead of typing out the name of parts, I feel like it will be easier to interpret a screenshot from the Excel doc I am organizing all of this information in. The green parts are the ones I currently plan to purchase, while the red parts are the components that I originally planned to purchase, but now think are unnecessary. I have the prices listed for each part of the separate packages, and potential replacements that are much cheaper. Feel free to ask about any of the terminology from the spreadsheet.

mweisdorfer : Great suggestion for saving money on the subframe bushings, just replacing the BMW parts with Lemforder saves about 350. I borrowed the Bentley manual for e90s up to 2010, and it has helped. I will be purchasing the newer edition for engine tuning.

I can't seem to tag Chris from strut monkey, but it looks like there is a B12 pro kit available for around $800, although it doesn't contain the actual strut assemblies, just the struts/springs/shocks.

agustincuenca : I will not be installing coilovers, just the regular B12 kit. Do you think it is necessary to replace the parts of the shock assembly that aren't the mounts? I still have the stock 225/45 R 17s on the front and back of my car, the tires are Pirelli P-Zero Run Flats. I will be replacing them with the Michelin PSS Non Run Flats. I was thinking though, my front tires have next to no wear, but the rears need to be replaced soon anyways. Would it be bad to buy a set, but only put the new ones on the back until the fronts wear out? Seems like it might mess with ride quality/handling. That lifetime warranty is great though...

[bluemidas]

I forgot to mention that the last five columns are the acceptable replacement parts for package components that are overpriced. The zipped file is the excel document where you can look at any links/see how I summed up my total part cost. It should be about $1700 for everything but the end links. They should be around $160, and here is their link.

https://www.vividracing.com/catalog/...150937631.html

Looks like it might be a lot cheaper for an almost complete suspension rework than I thought while putting it together. I probably won't replace the sway bars quite yet.

Any more suggestions? Thanks again!

[mweisdorfer]

I would proceed with the 11 piece m3 control arm upgrade kit from FCP Euro. Otherwise, if you did the front only then your tires in the front will wear evenly and the tires in the back will not. The camber is a negative .75 natural camber from the M3 arms. If you are looking to get bigger tires on the back, this is a HUGE must. Most folks will go 255 in the rear.

The Bilstein B12 kit will not come with the surrounding hardware. It never does. Note. the bump stops are built into the front struts and the rear shocks have them already attached under the blue jacket (cover).

At 70k, you dont really need to get new surrounding hardware just yet. at 100k, yes.

I would not do the m3 sway bar set unless you plan on doing a job that requires lowering or removing the rear subframe. Getting the oem sway bar out will at least require lowering the subframe about 4 inches or so.

You will need a 22mm strut socket. for the new struts.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...FcK3wAodGSYIng

Spring compressors will also be necessary

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-2555...ing+compressor

You can rent them from Autozone. If you trust using used tools. Springs can be dangerous.
Make sure you get the M3 bolts for the front and rear. Torque all arms to 76#. Having a mid-sized torque wrench is a must here. something that goes like 20 to 80# would be good.

PSS's will be nice for your neck of the woods.

I'd go 235/45/17 in the front and 255/40/17 in the rear.

[chris@strutmonkey]

Benefits of buying a 100% complete, fully-assembled kit:
1. No wrong parts (above spreadsheet has several)
2. No missing parts (above spreadsheet has several)
3. No extra parts.
4. No running to BMW Dealer to pay $100 for a widget because your car is on jacks and you have no choice.
5. Crap! I stripped the nut.
6. No special BMW tools needed.
7. No spring compressors to injure yourself (you laugh, I cry... ask me what happened last night)
8. No worry about correct torque specs
9. Save time
10. Save headache
11. Save sanity
12. Save marriage... ok, maybe
13. Does the washer go concave side up?
14. How do I stop the shaft from spinning?
15. Your old suspension is removed intact so you can easily store, sell, or reinstall it later.
16. You can text me late on Sunday night asking how to remove the headlight level sensor! :-)

[agustincuenca]

bluemidas Hey! Well, coilovers or strut/coil kit is a personal choice, either will work. So go for it! Said that, I would never mix tires between front and rear and even less run-flats with non-runflats. I would wait a little bit to save more and buy a complete PSS set.

[MEN54]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

You could take kit no. 2 less minus the rear lower, front arms (you don't need them) and use it as a reference point for the number of parts and part numbers. You could save a whole bunch of money on the bushings, which attach to the subframe, for the lower, rear control arms by using Lemforder parts. They are the OEM provider. DONT pay for the BMW sticker (the BMW TAX). You can price out the M3 subframe bushings for about $260.00 or so. ECS does seem to have the best prices for those particular bushings.

At 70K, you are better off (short term and cost wise) just with option 1. HOWEVER, if you are only interested in doing this job one time from now until say 170k, I'd do option 2, plus M3 differential bushings and SS brake lines.

You could probably get the cost of the option 2 down to $1000 pretty easily.

USE -

http://bmwfans.info

for part numbers and what not.

I'd also buy a bentley repair manual and research like crazy on this forum and others regarding tools needed and tricks of the trade for each DIY.

BAV AUTO has a great diy video for the shocks and struts.

You will need a special 21mm strut socket. I have only seen them for sale at ECS.

i know this is old thread, what about getting option 1 and also get Eibach Pro swaybar kit?

above upgrade will be nice, what do you think?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by MEN54

i know this is old thread, what about getting option 1 and also get Eibach Pro swaybar kit?

above upgrade will be nice, what do you think?

If you want a suspension that's pretty close to an M3, I'd do the following:

1) Bilstein B12 Kit
2) M3 control arms front & back
3) Eibach swaybar kit or M3 swaybar(s) + new swaybar bushings
4) Whiteline adjustable swaybar links in the front & maybe Meyle HD in the Rear or some other adjustable for the Rear
5) M3 Differential Bushings
6) M3 subframe bushings
7) New Tie Rods
8) New bushings in all the rear subframe(s) many control arms

I'd do this in stages if this car is your DD. If not, expect the car up on 4 jackstands for a while.

The OEM Swaybars aren't bad for a DD, but certainly the Eibach Kit is better; they are tuned to the Eibach springs found in the B12 Kit.

The M3 swaybars are probably the best.

Just my 2 cents..

[MEN54]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

If you want a suspension that's pretty close to an M3, I'd do the following:

1) Bilstein B12 Kit
2) M3 control arms front & back
3) Eibach swaybar kit or M3 swaybar(s) + new swaybar bushings
4) Whiteline adjustable swaybar links in the front & maybe Meyle HD in the Rear or some other adjustable for the Rear
5) M3 Differential Bushings
6) M3 subframe bushings
7) New Tie Rods
8) New bushings in all the rear subframe(s) many control arms

I'd do this in stages if this car is your DD. If not, expect the car up on 4 jackstands for a while.

The OEM Swaybars aren't bad for a DD, but certainly the Eibach Kit is better; they are tuned to the Eibach springs found in the B12 Kit.

The M3 swaybars are probably the best.

Just my 2 cents..

hey Bro, Thanks for the list, this is my weekend car and only family car, so i dont want harsh ride, do you think adding Bilstein B12 Kit will make ride harsh, by the way i dont have RFTs on my car, i got conti summer tires for summer and seperate set for winter.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by MEN54

hey Bro, Thanks for the list, this is my weekend car and only family car, so i dont want harsh ride, do you think adding Bilstein B12 Kit will make ride harsh, by the way i dont have RFTs on my car, i got conti summer tires for summer and seperate set for winter.

You will need to get give it 3 to 4000 miles to settle in. I like to drive in a spirited manner, so I don't think they are that harsh. They are stiffer than OEM to be sure. I could have added Poly subframe mounts but chose not too because I was told by the folks at both ECS & FCP Euro that they would be too harsh for a DD. They both recommend the M3 subframe & Differential bushings for my situation.

I live in the Michigan where the roads tend be like driving through a mine field at times, and I still got the B12 kit. I couldn't be happier. I've owned the B12 kit for around 40,000 miles.

There are certainly harsher suspension setups than the B12 kit, just as a reference point.

Get all your suspension upgrades from FCP Euro and you get a lifetime warranty on them for as long as you own the car.