[HawkeyeGeoff]

Hey Guys,

I just bought a new 135i from a forum member here. Drove it all the way back to the Mitten from New York.

First let me say this:
Valve cover is leaking; I have the parts to fix it and probably will tackle it this week. I also just walnut blasted the valves. Sparkies within the last 10k.

The car runs fantastic under load; it boosts all the way up to redline with no codes.

Car is running: JB4 map 1, DCI and a CPE intercooler.

The car at idle (specifically when the idle settles) is dipping, AFR runs up and down and I've even had it stall before. It takes a moment usually sitting at idle like if you sit at a stop light and then just starts bouncing up and down, dmf chatters as it almost stalls and catches itself, etc. This happens on warm and cold engine.

I've attached the log; this is a warm engine on a restart sitting in my garage. I noticed that my FP_L reads 206 to 213. Am I correct in assuming this means it's saying 206 PSI? Or is it 20.6-21.3 PSI. Either way that doesn't seem right at all. I'm thinking of replacing the LPFP sensor first.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

Edit: Link for datazap
http://datazap.me/u/gholbein/rough-i...data=1-4-14-17

[NoQuarter]

Possible vacuum line.

Check the one from the intake and the divertor valves.

[HawkeyeGeoff]

Originally Posted by NoQuarter

Possible vacuum line.

Check the one from the intake and the divertor valves.

Yeah that was my initial thought as well.

The previous owner has a bunch of stuff tapped into that intake manifold line....but couldn't find an issue with it.

Also checked the solenoid side lines.

Right now i'm planning on in this order:
- LPFP sensor (because that reading doesnt seem right, even though there's no code)
- Valve cover gasket (make sure it's not cracked) + PCV valve
- Spark plugs again (I guess they actually have about 17k on em)
- Coil packs
- Injectors (on Index 5)

Again, no misfire codes though and the car performs just fantastic under load; just seems to be the idle. It makes driving the car awful in traffic.

[NoQuarter]

Was the idle rough the whole trip home when you first picked it up?

[HawkeyeGeoff]

Originally Posted by NoQuarter

Was the idle rough the whole trip home when you first picked it up?

yup. Sure was.

[335e92tx]

Originally Posted by HawkeyeGeoff

Right now i'm planning on in this order:
- LPFP sensor (because that reading doesnt seem right, even though there's no code)
- Valve cover gasket (make sure it's not cracked) + PCV valve
- Spark plugs again (I guess they actually have about 17k on em)
- Coil packs
- Injectors (on Index 5)

Again, no misfire codes though and the car performs just fantastic under load; just seems to be the idle. It makes driving the car awful in traffic.

missfires can crop-up as fast as 15K on plugs if modded.

[HawkeyeGeoff]

Originally Posted by 335e92tx

missfires can crop-up as fast as 15K on plugs if modded.

Noted. I have a spare set of Step Colder NGK's.

The guy also did a ton of city driving, so maybe this had an effect on something. Tons of idling.

[NoGuru]

Here is your graph Geoff. The corrections look good so nothing is jumping out to me.
When I get back from Up North I come help you trouble shoot if you haven't found it by then.

[HawkeyeGeoff]

Originally Posted by NoGuru

Here is your graph Geoff. The corrections look good so nothing is jumping out to me.
When I get back from Up North I come help you trouble shoot if you haven't found it by then.

I think your scale is misleading; it looks like there's actually quite a bit of ign correction there.

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by NoQuarter

Possible vacuum line.

Check the one from the intake and the divertor valves.

I'd GUESS at vacuum or O2 sensors or injectors..

I recently replaced O2 sensors due to a code and AFRs that diverged when logging. After that, the car idles so smoothly, without any stumbling, etc. it feels like a new car again. Now, to do O2 proactively is somewhat expensive -$300 ish in parts. One hour to one and a half hour's time if you're slow like me..

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by 335e92tx

missfires can crop-up as fast as 15K on plugs if modded.

If you're doing VC and PCV, you may want to order a new breather tube. It does NOT come with the VC, but the PCV does... good chance you'll break the breather releasing it from VC.

[HawkeyeGeoff]

Originally Posted by jwebb335xi

If you're doing VC and PCV, you may want to order a new breather tube. It does NOT come with the VC, but the PCV does... good chance you'll break the breather releasing it from VC.

Yeah I ordered a RB PCV; I have an OCC so I can yank it from the occ if needed. I broke that on my last 135

I'll see if the VC is cracked. If so I'll order a new one....otherwise i'll just reinstall the old one. Seems like a lot of money for a piece of plastic otherwise.

[HawkeyeGeoff]

Originally Posted by jwebb335xi

I'd GUESS at vacuum or O2 sensors or injectors..

I recently replaced O2 sensors due to a code and AFRs that diverged when logging. After that, the car idles so smoothly, without any stumbling, etc. it feels like a new car again. Now, to do O2 proactively is somewhat expensive -$300 ish in parts. One hour to one and a half hour's time if you're slow like me..

Yeah I get why you'd think that....but the problem is the car drives PERFECT when under load. This includes WOT. No hesitation, no stumbles, nothing. Just smooth pulls all the way to redline. I feel like if it were an O2 I'd be setting a code for it as well.

Injectors could still be a thing...but like I said no misfire codes. It has to be something silly like the LPFP sensor or the sparkies/coils worn out or oil seeping onto the coil packs. But if none of that fixes it....I'll pony up for the injectors. Unfortunately my vehicle is one of the few not covered under warranty for the injectors.

[dcafs]

Have you tried resetting throttle adaptation?

My idle was uneven - especially during cold startups. Hunting around up and down by 250 rpm or so.

Did the throttle reset and it is idling better now.

It's a free thing to try before spending $$ on parts.

Just make sure to do the throttle reset.....turn off ignition.....turn ignition back on and wait thirty seconds before hitting the start button.

It's during those thirty seconds that the throttle goes through it's range.

[HawkeyeGeoff]

Originally Posted by dcafs

Have you tried resetting throttle adaptation?

My idle was uneven - especially during cold startups. Hunting around up and down by 250 rpm or so.

Did the throttle reset and it is idling better now.

It's a free thing to try before spending $$ on parts.

Just make sure to do the throttle reset.....turn off ignition.....turn ignition back on and wait thirty seconds before hitting the start button.

It's during those thirty seconds that the throttle goes through it's range.

I attempted to do that....

I did the following:

1. Turn ignition on
2. Hold accel pedal to the floor for 30 seconds
3. Turn off ignition for 2 minutes
4. Start the car.

Didn't seem to change anything for me.

[HawkeyeGeoff]

Logs also show that fuel trims are bottoming out at -33% right as it starts to act funny....on a normal MAF car that would mean boost leak not sure what that means on this....

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

Throw that log into an account at Datazap.me so it's easier to see!

Idle issues are often injector related, although I had a vacuum line issue once that screwed up my idle.

[HawkeyeGeoff]

Originally Posted by Chris@VargasTurboTech

Throw that log into an account at Datazap.me so it's easier to see!

Idle issues are often injector related, although I had a vacuum line issue once that screwed up my idle.

As requested:
http://datazap.me/u/gholbein/rough-i...data=1-4-14-17

From my experience in the past this indicates a vacuum line issue...BUT that being said the car pulls hard and smooth to 14 psi with seemingly no issue. I would think I'd be over boosting if it's on the boost solenoid side. The other vacuum lines seem to be fine on the intake side.

[HawkeyeGeoff]

BTW, LPFP Sensor replacement did nothing.

There has to be somewhere air is escaping....

Next steps:
-Valve cover/Valve Cover Gasket/PCV
- then sparkies
- then coil packs
- Maybe injectors?

Anything else to check guys? It's maxing fuel trims out in the negative direction when not under load....

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

How old are the injectors?

[HawkeyeGeoff]

Originally Posted by Chris@VargasTurboTech

How old are the injectors?

They are Index 5; getting close to 80k on them. You really think they'd be leaking at idle and causing a rich condition?

I do not have any long cranks upon cold starts. It seems to be the same bouncing idle regardless or cold start or warm. And I also do not get any misfires under load.

Furthermore, have you ever seen anyone have success in buying re-maned/cleaned injectors (like index 9's or 11's) off ebay? 700 is a big pill to swallow especially after I just shelled out 400 for a valve cover.

[dcafs]

Originally Posted by HawkeyeGeoff

I attempted to do that....

I did the following:

1. Turn ignition on
2. Hold accel pedal to the floor for 30 seconds
3. Turn off ignition for 2 minutes
4. Start the car.

Didn't seem to change anything for me.

That is not the correct procedure and it didn't work for me either.

Seems that you have to do a throttle adaptation reset using MHD or some other electronic diagnostic software.

Pressing the gas pedal seems to just be a myth.