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Need Help MULF2 Unit
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12-23-2017, 02:07 PM | #1 |
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Need Help MULF2 Unit
Hey guys recently purchased a 2008 E93 which has the Logix 7 AMP NAVI, unit. I Don't have any sound. In troubleshooting this I purchased the MOST Bypass loop adapter. In troubleshooting I noticed that my MULF2 module had sat in water. See pic. I took the connector off to check for corrosion and one of the pin's from the blue socket on the module broke off into the connector harness :-( So this unit is toast. I have taken the connector apart cleaned it and removed the broken pin. I have a few questions. From my limited knowledge this module has to do with Bluetooth correct? Now in my Entertainment settings I see Bluetooth and it says it's turned off. Now that the module is out it just says waiting. Obviously since the module is out it aint going to work.
Question 1) Dumb question How do I know if my car is Bluetooth enabled? Does the fact that the module is present and I have Bluetooth settings indicate that my car has Bluetooth? I'm going to duh of course dummy but just want to make sure as I believe some of these cars are "ready" meaning they have some modules but not everything to make it work. Question 2) I have the BMW MULF2 - High Basis SVS. I'd like to buy a used one how do I ensure I get the correct version? Which part number or identifier do I need to look for? I posted a picture of the label. Question 3) I believe this requires some coding. I have the K-DAN cable and the bimmergeeks software set installed and running. Can some one point me to which tool I need to use to code this? Also my audio is still not working I have plugged the POST loop back adapter into the AMP - I do see the light. I plugged it into SAT no light. I plugged into the MULF2 no light. Still no sound. So besides the MULF2 that needs to be replaced what might I look at? I hate just swapping parts gets expensive. |
12-23-2017, 02:28 PM | #2 |
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if you removed your post adapter from diagnostic socket then you disconnected most loop
you should have your post adapter on diagnostic plug AND same adapter connected INSTEAD of the mulf into mulf most circuit if you do not have second most post adapter then you can reconfigure most and most junction unit you can buy used mulf2 or mulf2 high and replace this to restore bluetooth functions sometime you need to code it to your car option list
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12-23-2017, 02:41 PM | #3 |
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You can use an online BMW Vin checker to print out your cars options.(the ones it came with)
https://www.bmwvin.com/ You can check the options numbers against the List found on the stickys at the coding subforum. You may need an Icom cable to do any coding on Most bus modules.=(the modules attached to the radio by fiber optics) It has been said that any car with a build date after 3/07 needs the ICOM cable for Most Bus module codings including the Radio . This is a fuzzy area these kind of questions are for the coding subforum. If you have the USB options or want it you need a Mulf 2 high a regular Mulf doesn't have it. The usb option number is 6fl. As I said before you can reconfigure the Most Lines at the Most Hub and I showed you where that was in the Post you previously put up along with a picture if where it is in a E93 from the tis link. Last edited by ctuna; 12-23-2017 at 02:51 PM.. |
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12-23-2017, 02:48 PM | #4 |
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icom is not needed for e9x series for coding MOST modules because JBE and headunit converts diagnostic bus messages between K-CAN and MOST
this is problem is for old e65 and e60 series up to 2005-2006
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12-23-2017, 02:57 PM | #5 |
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Lots of threads here and on the coding board say no
success with a regular K/D can cable for most bus and radio and idrive coding until an icom was used. The reason why has never firmly been pin downed or explained. (Most Bus modules are the ones attached to the Radio or idrive via Fiber OPtics.) The rest of the electronic controllers in the car can be programmed with a K/D can cable at your own risk with a large power supply . If your updating the entire software of the car and Icom is less risky. If just coding or doing diags the K/D can is good enough. I think there may be some confusion between most modules as in the majority of them and MOST BUS Modules as in the Radio and the ones attached to it by FiberOptic Most Bus connections. Last edited by ctuna; 12-23-2017 at 03:09 PM.. |
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12-23-2017, 03:08 PM | #6 | |
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Quote:
Based on the BMWvin.com S6FLA USB/Audio interface S620A Voice control S639A Preparation f mobile phone cpl. USA/CDN S645A BMW US Radio S655A Satellite tuner S677A HiFi System Professional DSP S694A Provisions for BMW 6 CD changer S6AAA BMW TeleServices S6ABA Control for Teleservices |
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12-23-2017, 03:24 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
Based on the picture I posted originally I have the MULF2 High correct? I want to replace with the same equipment. |
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12-23-2017, 04:28 PM | #8 | |
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Quote:
according VO you have TCU AND MULF modules i see that SAT module also damaged, so you need to disconnect SAT module, MULF module so it is better for you remove left rear side trim in cabin and maybe rear seat to find disconnect all of them from MOST junction you should find this part http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...9&postcount=11 first of all, you need to fix your convertible roof, the water is draining thru it and it kill all your replaced modules again
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12-23-2017, 05:17 PM | #9 |
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Since you have both a Sat Module and a Mulf module attached
to the Most Bus you would need two(2) Most jumpers to bypass them both. The other solution is to go to what I call the Most Hub(not sure or the nomenclature for this) and reroute around these modules to see if your amp works. (as described by ptpending) https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...cab/1VnYptEJWP Looks like ptpendings picture but the location is different in a E93. above is a picture for the location in an E93 I tried to explain this to you in the other thread you started. Mark and Label anything you move around to you can get back to the original configuration if needed. Last edited by ctuna; 12-23-2017 at 05:28 PM.. |
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12-25-2017, 11:14 PM | #10 |
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Thanks for the input. I ordered another loop adapter. Apparently the adapter I have fits in the MULF2 but not in the other modules including the SAT. So I'm ordering another cheap adapter than I can cut up. I'll try and bypass both Sat and Mulf units. What's the long rectangular box on the right? Is that the NAVI unit? Not sure I want.to tear up the car any more that is necessary. I'll leave the MOST hub as a last resort. Yes that's a pic of my trunk.
I've troubleshooted the water in the trunk issue. I don't think it's a seal. There are two drain plugs under the mudflaps just Infront of the rear tires. Mine were a little clogged. What happens is water backs up and then falls over into the trunk. I think I've addressed that. The seals seem good. Washed the car the other day and tried to flood the areas around the trunk and no water was getting in. I'm hoping that's fixed now. Last edited by GEOS07335i; 12-25-2017 at 11:20 PM.. |
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12-25-2017, 11:56 PM | #11 |
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http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...2&d=1260829447
The right side module in the trunk is the Mulf previously the TCU is the old version of that the Left side module is the Sat that is all they put in the trunk besides the L7 amp behind the wheel well on the oposite side as the battery. The Nav/Idrive is the unit in what would commonly be called the radio area of most cars. This is where the Nav and Radio physically exist. The TCU or Mulf does bluetooth and SOS in the early model it adds USB when it becomes the Mulf 2 hi . This is probably the source of your SOS problem . As ptpending said you can route around the SAT module MOST connection at the MOST connector HUB. If you are not going to use the Sat module you will either have to leave the jumper in or you will have to route it out of the loop anyway. Read the entertainment system pdf link provided. |
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01-03-2018, 12:00 PM | #12 |
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Im still waiting for my second loop adpter to come in but I found a MULF2 Unit I was going to go pick up since I need one anyway (pin broke off due to corrosion) Anyway was looking at the plug on the AMP and cant figure out how to pull it off. I got it partially off but it seems stuck and dont want to force it. Please see pic and let me know how to take these things off.
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01-03-2018, 09:54 PM | #13 |
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If that is the logic 7 amp the outer part of the connector is a slide lock.
You can see that is about half way over to the unlock position by the peg that the lock slides in . Looks like the outer portion on the left may be hitting you might have to lift the amp to get it to clear the obstruction. |
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01-04-2018, 09:26 AM | #14 |
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Yes this is a Logic 7 amp based on part number search. It just doesnt want to come out. It's not being obstructed. I had it hanging so I could get better light for the picture. So how do I remove it? Do I just continue to slide it over until it pops out?
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01-04-2018, 12:13 PM | #15 |
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Yes slide it over all the way to one side .
Can you see the angled slots around the pin that is used to lock it down? It should come out easily unless its welded by corrosion. |
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01-04-2018, 12:19 PM | #16 |
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Yes slide it over all the way to one side .
(If you have to force something don't.) Can you see the angled slots around the pin that is used to lock it down? I have never done this so how far over it has to go I am not sure. but the outer harder plastic is the slide. |
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01-04-2018, 09:56 PM | #17 |
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I finally was able to troubleshoot the faulty unit. It was the TCU. I used two loop back adapters. I had two faulty units the MULF2 which had sat in water and the TCU that's mounted directly above the MULF2 Unit. I was pleasantly surprised to hear the door chime ring out. Now to source a new TCU and put everything back together.
Thanks again for all your help. |
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01-05-2018, 01:42 AM | #18 |
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great, do not forget to code replaced unit to factory VO
![]() also you may buy only MULF2 HIGH and reconnect bluetooth wires to MULF2 HIGH and code options that bluetooth and usb will be provided from MULF, because 2G network used in TCU is not working already also if you do not fix your roof your modules die after first rain again ![]()
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