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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Cleaning DPF with it still in place
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04-22-2018, 01:03 AM | #1 |
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Cleaning DPF with it still in place
Hey guys, long time no see. I've been doing house projects and neglecting the 335d and driving my F150.
A big thank you to all who have contributed to this forum, without your help I may have given up on my D. Special thanks to Mik325tds. On to the topic. My 2009 335d with 92k miles was throwing DPF codes up until I did an EGR block off, swirl flap delete, and a Stage 2 JR Tune. Interestingly in the few hundred miles I've driven since I haven't had a DPF light (my tune did not delete the DPF and SCR). That said when I check the DPF with Carly I see my Ash Mass is about 32-34g. Soot Mass depends on my last regeneration. For several reasons I prefer not to do a delete on the DPF SCR system and have been considering the Liqui Moly DPF Cleaner and Purge which must be sprayed directly into the DPF at about 100psi. The spray gun Liqui Moly sells is pretty expensive for what it is and I've seen guys on youtube use garden sprayers on their Sprinter Vans DPF. I decided to play around with the media blaster I purchased from Harbor Freight to do my CBU cleaning and some copper tubing and think I have something that should work pretty good. I'm thinking the best place to spray the cleaner in our vehicles is 14mm forward temperature probe on the DPF. I also considered the port for the exhaust gas pressure sensor as it's really easy to get to but I'm concerned it's not enough of a straight shot at the DPF for the cleaner to be it's most effective. Today I played with cutting a notch in a box wrench and bending (after heating it up) to make a tool to remove this temperature probe but my first attempt was unsuccessful but I learnd some stuff for my next try. It looks like BMW has a version of this cleaning as well but I like the Liqui Moly better because the BMW is sprayed down the DPF pressure sensor pipe vs Liqui Moly directly into the filter in the direction of exhaust. Also the Liqui Moly is a 2 part solution vs. 1 part for BMW. If and when I complete this I will do a write up with pictures as a DIY or a "Don't let this happen to you". I did find quite a few positive reviews on Amazon.de and Amazon.uk on the Liqui Moly. Anyway, I'd love to hear your thoughts, recommendations, and would really love to hear from someone's experience. |
04-23-2018, 07:28 AM | #2 |
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Intrigued to hear what results you achieve. First thought,what about all the downstream sensors? They are fragile and would hate to see you foul up $500 to $1500 in sensors.
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04-23-2018, 10:22 AM | #3 | |
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Quote:
to the OP keep this in mind the DPF catches the soot in little chambers when the exhaust flows through it.. these DPF cleaners like the one mentioned flow in the same direction as the exhaust. how much does it really clean out? i have heard of people removing the DPF and flushing it out with a pressure washer (no soap) in the reverse direction and having good luck. take some good notes and lets see if this stuff really works or is it snake oil!! |
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04-23-2018, 11:19 AM | #4 |
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Have you read the SIB referenced in these: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=999882
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...7&postcount=16 They just did that to my 335d, about 1000 miles ago, no faults yet... |
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04-24-2018, 08:34 PM | #5 |
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Thanks Floyd, did BMW Bellevue do this for you and if so what did they charge? I'm in Shoreline BTW.
I really like the way the Liqui Moly is applied compared to the BMW service bulletin and the fact that the Liqui Moly is a 2 part solution. I found a garage in the London UK area that states they have had a 100% success rate with the Liqui Moly (but who knows how they define success). I was able to find a tool that I think will work nicely for removal of the forward DPF temperature sensor and ordered it. After seeing what Mik325tds had to come up with to get his off even with the DPF removed from the vehicle I think it's worth purchasing a special tool. <a href="https://ibb.co/mDOdjH"><img src="https://preview.ibb.co/dOhtJc/14mm_Crow_Foot.jpg" alt="14mm_Crow_Foot" border="0"></a> <a href="https://ibb.co/jvGaWx"><img src="https://preview.ibb.co/gDDNBx/Redneck_Temp_Tool.jpg" alt="Redneck_Temp_Tool" border="0"></a> <a href="https://ibb.co/grrndc"><img src="https://preview.ibb.co/fgP7dc/Screen_Shot_2014_07_22_at_9_25_55_PM.png" alt="Screen_Shot_2014_07_22_at_9_25_55_PM" border="0"></a> |
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04-24-2018, 09:44 PM | #6 |
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04-25-2018, 11:47 PM | #8 |
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As previously stated I like the way the Liqui Moly is applied better than the way BMW does it with the differential pressure line (watch the application videos). The Liqui Moly application method should apply the cleaner on a greater surface area of the filter.
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04-26-2018, 12:33 AM | #9 |
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Thanks for looking out for me Mark, it's obviously a possibility. My thought is if I do mess anything up there's enough people selling parts they've deleted or I could do a delete myself.
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06-12-2018, 12:17 AM | #10 |
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Hey guys,
I was finally able to make this happen this afternoon. After several roadblocks, needing a tool to get the sensor removed and having to make several revisions of application sprayers to get the Liqui Moly products in the DPF, I was able to use the media blaster I purchased at Harbor Freight (for Carbon Build Up) as a pressure vessel and an air nozzle with bent copper tubing as the applicator. I sprayed the Cleaner, let it soak 20 minutes, and then applied the Purge. I reinstalled the sensor and then requested a regeneration after letting the engine idle for about 5 minutes and did a 35 minute trip on a fairly open highway. Background: My 335d is a 2009 with 92k miles on it. It has unfortunately spent 90%+ of it's life in terrible stop and go Seattle traffic. I performed Liqui Moly Diesel Intake cleaning at 79k miles and a full Carbon Build Up walnut blasting at 83k miles. After the CBU cleaning I was getting occasional DPF fault codes 480a and 481a and the car ran terribly but have yet to receive another DPF fault after I deleted the EGR and did a DDE update and a JR Auto Stage 2 tune. I see several of you have been posting miles between DPF regenerations but I don't know how to access that information. Observations: When I was making my way from home to the highway I was a little afraid I might get pulled over since the car was smoking like Snoop Dog and I drove right past the police station. Once I got up to highway speeds the smoke wasn't too bad. Soot Mass was only at 7.41g when I started but I got it down to 1.75g before the regeneration completed. Ash Mass was 33.91 and remained unchanged. I had a slight hope that the cleaner would wash out some of the Ash but that does not seem to be the case. Driving the car felt no different this evening from previous regenerations. |
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06-19-2018, 07:03 PM | #11 |
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The only way to remove ash is a reverse flush with a liquid. Of course, DPF removal is required. I recommend contacting AARodriguez and buying a DPF takeoff. He can pick through his and find one that is black on the inlet and tan on the outlet, and sell it to you for about $150.
When you install it, the ash reading, I believe, will be the same since it is a calculation based upon the amount of fuel the engine has burned. I could be wrong and it would be based on differential pressure after a regen. At any rate, your power should be restored if Rodriguez confirms the DPF came off a properly running car. Sure worked for me. Now you can apply a pressure washer to the outlet of your old DPF and use it later. |
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06-21-2018, 02:00 PM | #13 |
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That's a very good question as to if the Ash Mass is measured or calculated. I've seen videos online of Britt's reverse flushing their DPFs and most claim it works well.
Slight update on this, 263 miles on the vehicle after performing the DPF cleaning I've noticed a 6% increase in fuel mileage (unfortunately this could also be attributed to seasonal traffic variances) and the throttle feels more responsive. |
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