[Beisofmarko]

Hi,

I have late 2006 e92 with 6 speaker base audio system.
I have replaced oem speakers with jehnert flatline kit and
added match pp82dsp amp along with technic harness.
underseats 50-250hz, mids 250-3khz, tweeters 3k-20khz.

I made last year topic about my audio stuff/problems and it got a bit messy
as i had so many questions so i made fresh one to eliminate extra confusion.

To my problem:

My system sounds like crap, missing something in midrange, highs hurt on ear and
bass is there only in certain songs.

I still have factory EQ curve, i have set time alignments by distance and all that stuff.

Question:

At what level i should try to flatten my graph, where do i draw the ideal curve?
Ctuna kindly provided me earlier some videos with pp82dsp how to but
the guy in video has no factory boosted rollercoaster graph (only some minor peaks and dips)
that make sense even to me.

Below is the RTA on drivers side speakers only playing.
1/6 oct average of 6 recordings with 120+ averages, used UMIK-1 mic.

Hopefully my question didn't come out too confusing.

Thanks!

[ptpending]

can you provide wiring scheme which you used to connect ?

[Ali-E90]

Just code your HU to hifi and you should be fine since you already have an amp also.

[Beisofmarko]

Originally Posted by ptpending

can you provide wiring scheme which you used to connect ?

i don't have wiring scheme, i followed someone's diy upgrade.
I ran technic harness from HU to amp and pair of new wires from amp straight
to underseats.
I used oem wires in doors for mids and extented rear speaker wires and ran
them to tweeters.

- front left (mid): blue/white + and blue/brown -
- front right (mid): blue/black + and blue/brown -
- rear left (tweeter): yellow/red + and yellow/brown -
- rear right (tweeter): blue/green + and blue/brown -

Originally Posted by Ali-323i

Just code your HU to hifi and you should be fine since you already have an amp also.

Is there any downside to coding HU to hifi? I was told earlier that i should not do it especially since i have pp82dsp amp allready.
I'm just struggling with trying to de-eq the factory curve.

Thanks

[ptpending]

Originally Posted by Beisofmarko

i don't have wiring scheme, i followed someone's diy upgrade.
I ran technic harness from HU to amp and pair of new wires from amp straight
to underseats.
I used oem wires in doors for mids and extented rear speaker wires and ran
them to tweeters.

- front left (mid): blue/white + and blue/brown -
- front right (mid): blue/black + and blue/brown -
- rear left (tweeter): yellow/red + and yellow/brown -
- rear right (tweeter): blue/green + and blue/brown -



Is there any downside to coding HU to hifi? I was told earlier that i should not do it especially since i have pp82dsp amp allready.
I'm just struggling with trying to de-eq the factory curve.

Thanks

1.did you bought such harness ?
https://technicpnp.com/product/hifi-harness/
2. when you code to hifi you fix you EQ curve

[Beisofmarko]

Originally Posted by ptpending

1.did you bought such harness ?
https://technicpnp.com/product/hifi-harness/
2. when you code to hifi you fix you EQ curve

No, i bought one like this, with match pp82dsp ready connectors:
https://technicpnp.com/product/stereo-46-harness/

Is the coding HU from stereo to hifi hard/time consuming process? (will it be expensive)

[ctuna]

DSP

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1384218
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1383653
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1381697

Above some entrys from the 14 part dsp tuning procedure.
You should know what your channel assignment is.
You have enough channels to do direct on the front speakers but you would need another set of wires run to the doors.

Re coding to Hi Fi is not as hard as the above process which you will have to do anyway.
Did you run another set of wires to the doors for the tweeters?
The above process is pretty much the same as what Helix
describes at there site.
The 82 dsp is designed for speaker outs it is my understanding that the one from bimmertech has been modified for a Hi Fi tune which they include in there kit
price. I think thing they might just reset internal jumpers
for that.

[Beisofmarko]

Originally Posted by ctuna

You have enough channels to do direct on the front speakers but you would need another set of wires run to the doors.

Re coding to Hi Fi is not as hard as the above process which you will have to do anyway.
Did you run another set of wires to the doors for the tweeters?
The above process is pretty much the same as what Helix
describes at there site.
The 82 dsp is designed for speaker outs it is my understanding that the one from bimmertech has been modified for a Hi Fi tune which they include in there kit
price. I think thing they might just reset internal jumpers
for that.

Yes, i have ran new pair of wires to the doors for the tweeters.
I took oem rear speakers out and extended those wires to front doors for tweeters.
So my channel assignment is A/B mids C/D tweeters E/F underseats.

I'll take another look on those videos again, but as i said i'm having trouble understanding
on to what point i should try to balance the graph to draw/get "ideal curve".

You say re-coding to hifi ain't hard as eq-tuning but i still need to do that.
However, would you recommed for me to get my HU coded to hifi to get
better starting point as i'm not experienced with eq-tuning at all?

Thanks alot!

[ctuna]

When you eq you do it on a each speaker basis with the others
turned off as in video . You have 8 channels so I don't know why you
wouldn't run the rears off the extra set.
Since you probably have some kind of hybrid of the Technic and Helix
Harness its important to verify channel assignment.
You will do that when you run through the procedure, since you are
turning on one speaker at a time, or sometimes sets.
6spcoupe who owns a shop says that doing the Hi Fi is not important
with this setup Bimmertech does it so (Hi Fi levels) its up to you.

If you haven't done this before you have a lot of work to do
hope you enjoy tweeking. (Even if you have done it it's a lot
of work)

Did you buy the unit from Bimmertech or direct?
Bimmertech = modified

[jeffb335]

Ive been using something close to the JBL curve for years.....as did the MS-8 back when that was the way to go.....if you get close to this curve and your time alignment/crossovers are set up right, its going to sound good:

-20-60hz: +9db
-60-160hz: Transition to 0
160-3khz: Flat (0)
3khz+: Gradual Roll-off to -6db @ 20khz

Discussion this and many other popular target curves can be found on DIYMA.com:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...omparison.html

You will find that there is no "ideal curve" for everyone but that most of these curves share more in common than they have different.

The videos ctuna posted about are a fantastic rundown on the process of tuning, seems like a lot but you will find that 95% of it you can do in an hour or two.....and then the last 5% you will spend the rest of time trying to getting right

[jeffb335]

Just looking at that RTA, the basic shape is already there.....if you knock down that big bump at 2.8k, bring down 170, 300-600, and 4.5k-6k, you will be looking pretty good. Basically pull down all the peaks with the EQ so things smooth out. Once you get one side where it should be, try to match the other side to the same EQ curve. Then combine them and EQ again. Repeat until you achieve perfection or go insane. Its all explained in detail in the videos ctuna linked to above.

[Beisofmarko]

Originally Posted by ctuna

You have 8 channels so I don't know why you
wouldn't run the rears off the extra set.

Did you buy the unit from Bimmertech or direct?
Bimmertech = modified

I have left last 2 channels unused for now for two reasons.
One of my oem rear speakers was blown/not working since when i bought the car
and i have amp + sub laying around that i'm planning to add later on
when i'm pleased with front.

My unit isn't bimmertech one.

Originally Posted by jeffb335

Just looking at that RTA, the basic shape is already there.....if you knock down that big bump at 2.8k, bring down 170, 300-600, and 4.5k-6k, you will be looking pretty good. Basically pull down all the peaks with the EQ so things smooth out. Once you get one side where it should be, try to match the other side to the same EQ curve. Then combine them and EQ again. Repeat until you achieve perfection or go insane. Its all explained in detail in the videos ctuna linked to above.

This will be great starting point for me, will definetly start with these and try to somewhat target the curve you mentioned one post earlier
and see how it goes from there.

Thanks to both of you!

[ptpending]

Originally Posted by Beisofmarko

No, i bought one like this, with match pp82dsp ready connectors:
https://technicpnp.com/product/stereo-46-harness/

Is the coding HU from stereo to hifi hard/time consuming process? (will it be expensive)

did you lost rear pdc sounds with routing rear wires to front doors or you routed additional wires to rear speakers ?
such coding should not be expensive because it is do not require firmware upgrade

[Beisofmarko]

Originally Posted by ptpending

did you lost rear pdc sounds with routing rear wires to front doors or you routed additional wires to rear speakers ?
such coding should not be expensive because it is do not require firmware upgrade

I extended and routed rear wires to front doors (to tweeters).
However.. if being honest, i must say that i'm not even sure if
my rear pdc makes beeping sound.
I will have to check because i can't remember, will update after next drive.
I rarely even get to situation where rear pdc comes to play it's part.

Why it would be lost? something to do with aftermarket amp or?
- anyway to get them to work if that's the case?

My gongs, seatbelt and insert key sounds are working normally but
can't remember pdc, will check.

[ctuna]

shoudn't matter since you can set the level of any channel
that's amped and it should be cleaner from the extra power alone.

Don't know why you would route the rears to the fronts since there
are 8 channels on the DSP that can use either the front or rear set of Head
Speaker outs to generate the active signal.

The typical thing to do would be to use the Front speaker signals to generate
Three pairs of speaker signals for the front speakers one set for tweeters ,on set
for mids one set for underseats which still leaves a set for the rears.
All done via programming.
(I would strongly advice using this wiring setup.)

I hope at least you are running the tweeters through the 82dsp otherwise you
will never be able to adjust anything

[ptpending]

Originally Posted by Beisofmarko

I extended and routed rear wires to front doors (to tweeters).
However.. if being honest, i must say that i'm not even sure if
my rear pdc makes beeping sound.
I will have to check because i can't remember, will update after next drive.
I rarely even get to situation where rear pdc comes to play it's part.

Why it would be lost? something to do with aftermarket amp or?
- anyway to get them to work if that's the case?

My gongs, seatbelt and insert key sounds are working normally but
can't remember pdc, will check.

because rear pdc are beeped only to rear speakers by headunit

[6spdcoupe]

You should have (with rears retained) a total of 4 inputs and outputs for an active setup.

Front Left/Right
Rear Left/Right

2 to the tweeters
2 to the midranges
2 to the underseats
2 for rears

Would you mind emailing your file over and I can take a look ?