[Paul95]

Good day BMW owners.

I bought BMW e90 320d M47 2005 automatic. The bmw was quite ok, but I started to have a problem to start it. After first time not starting (Not even cranking, airbag light on, hearing strage click from dashboard) I went to electrician to solve the problem. He did disconnect BSD (number 3) and programed something.
1st Image
https://ibb.co/jcgYic

After one day I had same problem, then he did diagnostics and said DDE gives out fault. I changed the DDE. After that I still had this problem but after 1month or so... That time I went about 700km to airport, left the car for few minutes, came back and it didn't start (yellow check engine light on dashboard). After ~15 tries it started.

After this incident I went to another electrician. The worst part is that when I it doesn't start, it doesn't show any starting faults on diagnostics, tho it shows on the dash yellow check engine light, and the battery discharges really fast. The electrician reprogrammed my steering wheel lock (made it think it was new), charged my car. This helped me for another 2months, and now everything started again, every single day ! (2nd image)
http://prntscr.com/j94xur

Everyday I leave my car for a night in parking lot. In the morning the car starts fine EVERYTIME. After I ride like for 30-40minutes and leave my car for 5-10minutes it doesn't start. I checked my battery it's 11.8V. My starter is ok. How do I solve this problem for that time? I just ask a random person to jumpstart my car ! When the other battery charges my car (from front) it just starts... So I concluded that the Voltage is short in front. Also my battery storage is not so clean at, and the wiring is bad... I thought it had some water damage. I thought it was the connectors (3rd image) and i tried to clean them, but it didn't help.
http://prntscr.com/j94r0u
I also noticed the cables to be broken (4th image) B+ connection for IBS which is stilll plugged in and BSD which is unplugged.
http://prntscr.com/j94sbf
The DDE fuse is okay, since we can see DDE on diagnostics. The battery is okay, connectors are cleaned, starter is fine, Casis is fine aswell...

Now as I am reading more, I think i need to disconnect the B+ connection IBS, maybe it will help? Any thoughts on this?

Sorry, Images doesn't upload, I will leave them as a links.

[jeddo45]

Originally Posted by Paul95

Good day BMW owners.

I bought BMW e90 320d M47 2005 automatic. The bmw was quite ok, but I started to have a problem to start it. After first time not starting (Not even cranking, airbag light on, hearing strage click from dashboard) I went to electrician to solve the problem. He did disconnect BSD (number 3) and programed something.
1st Image
https://ibb.co/jcgYic

After one day I had same problem, then he did diagnostics and said DDE gives out fault. I changed the DDE. After that I still had this problem but after 1month or so... That time I went about 700km to airport, left the car for few minutes, came back and it didn't start (yellow check engine light on dashboard). After ~15 tries it started.

After this incident I went to another electrician. The worst part is that when I it doesn't start, it doesn't show any starting faults on diagnostics, tho it shows on the dash yellow check engine light, and the battery discharges really fast. The electrician reprogrammed my steering wheel lock (made it think it was new), charged my car. This helped me for another 2months, and now everything started again, every single day ! (2nd image)
http://prntscr.com/j94xur

Everyday I leave my car for a night in parking lot. In the morning the car starts fine EVERYTIME. After I ride like for 30-40minutes and leave my car for 5-10minutes it doesn't start. I checked my battery it's 11.8V. My starter is ok. How do I solve this problem for that time? I just ask a random person to jumpstart my car ! When the other battery charges my car (from front) it just starts... So I concluded that the Voltage is short in front. Also my battery storage is not so clean at, and the wiring is bad... I thought it had some water damage. I thought it was the connectors (3rd image) and i tried to clean them, but it didn't help.
http://prntscr.com/j94r0u
I also noticed the cables to be broken (4th image) B+ connection for IBS which is stilll plugged in and BSD which is unplugged.
http://prntscr.com/j94sbf
The DDE fuse is okay, since we can see DDE on diagnostics. The battery is okay, connectors are cleaned, starter is fine, Casis is fine aswell...

Now as I am reading more, I think i need to disconnect the B+ connection IBS, maybe it will help? Any thoughts on this?

Sorry, Images doesn't upload, I will leave them as a links.

Do yourself a favor and get a new battery. Reprogram it in and watch your car start without an issue.

[Paul95]

I don't think the battery it self causes the problem (since it has normal V and it's not dead)...

Also wanted to mention that ECU resetting or deleting other faults won't help to start the car.

[jeddo45]

Originally Posted by Paul95

I don't think the battery it self causes the problem (since it has normal V and it's not dead)...

Also wanted to mention that ECU resetting or deleting other faults won't help to start the car.

Anything under 12 volts is not normal, which it's even less once the car is under load. Your at 11.8 volts. Once you try to turn the starter over, your probably closer to the 11 Volt mark. You say that jump starting your car starts it immediately which automatically tells me your battery is probably the culprit.

Keep in mind because you have a lot of electronics in this car, a dead battery will cause you a plethora of issues.

Try getting a new battery. Have it reprogrammed into the car and report back. If that's not the issue then your either dealing with the alternator or something bigger. But diagnose and repair in steps. Don't just throw parts and money at the car.


I'd start at the battery, then go to the alternator after. Matter of fact, try testing the voltage the alternator is putting out when the car is running and you'll see if it's working properly.

[Paul95]

Originally Posted by jeddo45

Anything under 12 volts is not normal, which it's even less once the car is under load. Your at 11.8 volts. Once you try to turn the starter over, your probably closer to the 11 Volt mark. You say that jump starting your car starts it immediately which automatically tells me your battery is probably the culprit.

Keep in mind because you have a lot of electronics in this car, a dead battery will cause you a plethora of issues.

Try getting a new battery. Have it reprogrammed into the car and report back. If that's not the issue then your either dealing with the alternator or something bigger. But diagnose and repair in steps. Don't just throw parts and money at the car.


I'd start at the battery, then go to the alternator after. Matter of fact, try testing the voltage the alternator is putting out when the car is running and you'll see if it's working properly.

Wouldn't it atleast try to crank at 11.8V (11V as you say)? It doesnt even want to try to cranck.

[jeddo45]

Originally Posted by Paul95

Wouldn't it atleast try to crank at 11.8V (11V as you say)? It doesnt even want to try to cranck.

No it wouldn't. You need AT LEAST 12 volts to get the starter to crank. Again, if your reading 11.8 while the battery is idle, once you put it under load that voltage drops way lower.

Test it. Put a voltage meter to the starter and try starting the car. You'll see the reading drop way lower.

[icon2015]

Originally Posted by Paul95

Good day BMW owners.

I bought BMW e90 320d M47 2005 automatic. The bmw was quite ok, but I started to have a problem to start it. After first time not starting (Not even cranking, airbag light on, hearing strage click from dashboard) I went to electrician to solve the problem. He did disconnect BSD (number 3) and programed something.
1st Image
https://ibb.co/jcgYic

After one day I had same problem, then he did diagnostics and said DDE gives out fault. I changed the DDE. After that I still had this problem but after 1month or so... That time I went about 700km to airport, left the car for few minutes, came back and it didn't start (yellow check engine light on dashboard). After ~15 tries it started.

After this incident I went to another electrician. The worst part is that when I it doesn't start, it doesn't show any starting faults on diagnostics, tho it shows on the dash yellow check engine light, and the battery discharges really fast. The electrician reprogrammed my steering wheel lock (made it think it was new), charged my car. This helped me for another 2months, and now everything started again, every single day ! (2nd image)
http://prntscr.com/j94xur

Everyday I leave my car for a night in parking lot. In the morning the car starts fine EVERYTIME. After I ride like for 30-40minutes and leave my car for 5-10minutes it doesn't start. I checked my battery it's 11.8V. My starter is ok. How do I solve this problem for that time? I just ask a random person to jumpstart my car ! When the other battery charges my car (from front) it just starts... So I concluded that the Voltage is short in front. Also my battery storage is not so clean at, and the wiring is bad... I thought it had some water damage. I thought it was the connectors (3rd image) and i tried to clean them, but it didn't help.
http://prntscr.com/j94r0u
I also noticed the cables to be broken (4th image) B+ connection for IBS which is stilll plugged in and BSD which is unplugged.
http://prntscr.com/j94sbf
The DDE fuse is okay, since we can see DDE on diagnostics. The battery is okay, connectors are cleaned, starter is fine, Casis is fine aswell...

Now as I am reading more, I think i need to disconnect the B+ connection IBS, maybe it will help? Any thoughts on this?

Sorry, Images doesn't upload, I will leave them as a links.

The IBS is known to be a battery drain issue in BMW E6x, E7X, E8X, E9X. I recommend to change the IBS with a new one, if that is a problem, as the costs might be high, just unplug connector 3, and 2.
This is only one issue of your car, from what you are telling, i think the real issue might be at your alternator. Check your voltage when the car is running at idle with many consumers started (AC, lights, music), You should have =>13.7V and <15V.
If the value differs then consider buying a new alternator or refurbish your present one.

[Paul95]

Originally Posted by icon2015

The IBS is known to be a battery drain issue in BMW E6x, E7X, E8X, E9X. I recommend to change the IBS with a new one, if that is a problem, as the costs might be high, just unplug connector 3, and 2.
This is only one issue of your car, from what you are telling, i think the real issue might be at your alternator. Check your voltage when the car is running at idle with many consumers started (AC, lights, music), You should have =>13.7V and <15V.
If the value differs then consider buying a new alternator or refurbish your present one.

Should I check voltage at battery terminal or at alternator? The 11.8V was tested when the car was not started. I will check the Voltage tommorow Thanks !

[icon2015]

The difference between front car connection of battery voltage(beneath the red plastic cover and any ground point) and battery terminal voltage should be little(0.1-0.5V). So measure both.

[YasF80_SLO]

+1 on the battery, if you do swap it out DIY or take it to an indy, make sure either you or your indy is familiar with the BMW battery replacement procedure, it isnt anything to hard to do yourself, just if you dont register the battery, you may be buying another quickly.

[Paul95]

Originally Posted by 2013_E92

+1 on the battery, if you do swap it out DIY or take it to an indy, make sure either you or your indy is familiar with the BMW battery replacement procedure, it isnt anything to hard to do yourself, just if you dont register the battery, you may be buying another quickly.

There are no indys in my country Thanks I know the procedure and registering operation

[Paul95]

UPDATE : Measured my voltage.
Not running : 12.9-13V.
On idle : 14.2V
On idle with all lights and music : 14v

Seems like whenever I turn off my car someone drains Voltage... :/

[mecheng77]

Originally Posted by Paul95

UPDATE : Measured my voltage.
Not running : 12.9-13V.
On idle : 14.2V
On idle with all lights and music : 14v

Seems like whenever I turn off my car someone drains Voltage... :/

No that is normal voltage levels

[BimmerNugget]

Perhaps faulty alternator? The alternator isn't fully charging the battery. Happened on my pop's 2014 Honda CRV. We replaced the battery 3 times before figuring out that it was the alternator.

Easiest way to test alternator is to unplug the battery terminal while vehicle is running. The alternator should produce enough power to keep everything running. If not, then the alternator is dead. However, please advise that many people on this forum are against doing this to our cars because "it's a BMW" and yada yada yada.

I did this on my pop's CRV and that's how the alternator issue was diagnosed. We got a new alternator and it's all good now.

[jeddo45]

Originally Posted by Paul95

UPDATE : Measured my voltage.
Not running : 12.9-13V.
On idle : 14.2V
On idle with all lights and music : 14v

Seems like whenever I turn off my car someone drains Voltage... :/

Got a code reader? If you have a power draw the system will record it. Do you have any aftermarket electronics? If your alternator is bad, your idle voltage should be way lower than 14 volts.

Can you run a voltage test after you've driven the car for awhile? Because if its still at that voltage after a little bit of driving, then its not the battery or alternator but something else draining it.

[lukasB]

so do you know what code your check engine light is throwing? If not then obviously you should start from that

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by jeddo45

No it wouldn't. You need AT LEAST 12 volts to get the starter to crank. Again, if your reading 11.8 while the battery is idle, once you put it under load that voltage drops way lower.

Test it. Put a voltage meter to the starter and try starting the car. You'll see the reading drop way lower.

thats not true.. He has a point. Car sometimes start sometimes doesn't and his battery voltage is adequate for a crank... It doesnt mean its not a abd battery but doesnt explain why sometimes it starts.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by 2013_E92

+1 on the battery, if you do swap it out DIY or take it to an indy, make sure either you or your indy is familiar with the BMW battery replacement procedure, it isnt anything to hard to do yourself, just if you dont register the battery, you may be buying another quickly.

Indy shop hahaha he is in Lithuania... every shop is indy and they have soooo much more experience with BMWs than anywhere in the states.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by Paul95

UPDATE : Measured my voltage.
Not running : 12.9-13V.
On idle : 14.2V
On idle with all lights and music : 14v

Seems like whenever I turn off my car someone drains Voltage... :/

Sir you need to connect ISTA.. read the codes. You shooting in the dark here.

[mecheng77]

Don't disconnect your battery when your car is running! You will thank me, you can hurt your electronics!

[grzes]

so time for my few words
- computerized cars will not crank if battery is low, computer disables that not like in the old cars when you will hear cranking slowing down
- it starts then doesn't - battery at times is good and after prolonged stop voltage drops
- looking at your battery bay and seeing all that white staff (battery oxidation) means old battery.
Now you should find out how old the battery is (should have posted the batter picture before before you cleaned it). After seeing your measuring test from when the car is running the alternator seams to be good but again, all that white staff in your battery bay means shit is going on with your battery, aka replace it. That bay should be nice and clean and dry and no white residue anywhere.
Not sure if in 2005 models the computer will tell you about low battery, plus your bmw and north american is not the same, people don't realize bmw in europe it is like Chevy/Chrysler/Ford base models stripped to the minimum, something we in north america don't even see

[Paul95]

Originally Posted by jeddo45

Got a code reader? If you have a power draw the system will record it. Do you have any aftermarket electronics? If your alternator is bad, your idle voltage should be way lower than 14 volts.

Can you run a voltage test after you've driven the car for awhile? Because if its still at that voltage after a little bit of driving, then its not the battery or alternator but something else draining it.

Yes I have code reader INPA K+DCAN, but when the car doesn't start it doesn't show any codes associated with faulty start or engine. But now as I am thinking, I replaced the glow plug relay 4months ago, which gives out the fault. When service replaced that, the glow plugs didn't want to turn off for 2minutes (they said)... Maybe this thing is draining my power when car is not running? I will test voltages after little bit more of driving.