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N52 engine mounts replacing
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04-27-2018, 02:02 PM | #1 |
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N52 engine mounts replacing
Hello,
My car is vibrating at low rpm, i inspected the engine mounts and the one below the headers was slightly cracked. I bought 2 mounts and thought ill change them myself following the pelican guide. To replace the mounts you have to remove the middle spalsher and 2 splashers on the side, you have to then remove a V shaped bar to access the below bolts of the mount. I successfully replaced the mount under the headers and i put i heat shield to protect it. The issue: i was not able to remove the driver s side mount. It gave me hell. I was able to dismantle it ( you have to use a 60 cm extension from above. I got frustrated as it wouldnt physically get out between the firewall and the engine (jacked), i have tried 4 times to jack the engine and make the other mount loose but it wouldnt come out.. so i jacked the engine more and my radiator broke (the plastic pipe from top). I re assembled everything.. turned out the mount was in good condition (drivers side) but pelican recommended replacing both. I thought i d post about it so no one can have my issue (being stupid and broke my radiator).. And if any one knows how to get it out please help. It is so tight because of the steering shaft and powersteering box and shafts Ps the vibrations are gone and i towed my car to shop to replace the radiator
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E90 328i n52 auto, 3 stage IM, k&n drop in, charcoal delete, silicone boot, ebay headers, secondary cats delete, bpc tune. MILVs (soon), MT swap (planning)
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04-27-2018, 02:08 PM | #2 |
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Maybe i should have removed the side mount but the pelican didnt say so and it was even harder (couldnt see its bolts)
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04-27-2018, 06:36 PM | #3 |
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Sorry to hear about your radiator. I remember slowly watching everything come closer and closer the last time I did motor mounts (E46M3).
Have you loosened the transmission mounts? You could probably loosen the front subframe bolts to drop the whole subframe down while the motor is suspended from above, which will give you access. Did this with the M3 too.
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04-27-2018, 10:32 PM | #4 | |
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Quote:
Lowering the subframe should work too.. but i didnt do it because pelican didnt say so. Anyways for the readers out there, it is very recommended to disconnect your radiator, because loosening the transmission mount will lift the engine more and the plastic pipe will be stressed
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04-28-2018, 03:44 AM | #5 |
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Went to a shop today and replaced the mount and the radiator. I asked him how he did it, turned out there is a shield metal that protected the fuel lines. It had to be removed (i couldnt remove it yesterday because it had 3 bolts and one of them cannot be seen from below the car so i couldnt dismantle it. He also told me that if it had no clearance i should have loosen the subframe
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04-28-2018, 07:54 PM | #6 |
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Sorry to hear about your radiator man. Really glad that you got it fixed.
I should be doing my mounts soon as well, what location did you use for your jack point if I may ask? Also, if you had to change your mounts I would suggest changing your oil pan gaskets as well. They usually go out around the same time. Pretty much the same job. |
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04-28-2018, 08:39 PM | #7 |
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When you're jacking the motor from the bottom you should put a piece of wood between your jack and the frontmost part of the oil pan.
You're basically using the trans mounts as a fulcrum, so the ideal position is as far away from there as possible. However, I think the better way to do it in our cars is to get an engine hoist (I have this one https://www.amazon.com/Goplus-1100lb...ne+hoist&psc=1) There's a place on the motor you can install a hook, if it doesn't have one (S54, S65 have hooks, N52 doesn't) (see https://www.rmeuropean.com/images/BM...e-Mounts-7.jpg) Then you can support or even lift the engine with the hoist, lower the subframe, swap your mounts, bingo bongo. |
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04-29-2018, 01:29 AM | #8 | |
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Quote:
I jacked the engine from the oil pan using a piece of wood between the pan and the jack, for each mount i moved it as close as possible to the mount i was about to change. What you can learn from my mistakes is : - remove the black metal shield that protects the fuel lines when replacing the driver side mount (to give you clearance) - unbolt the airbox (2 bolts) because under the airbox u find a water pipe coming from top radiator (driver s side) to engine (beneath oil filter housing) when i raised my engine this pipe was stressed and my radiator broke - you can always diaconnect this line from radiator and be safe - if you need more clearance loose the subframe a bit while the engine is jacked - i wish you luck
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05-03-2018, 04:55 PM | #9 |
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I was in a similar scenario, and had the same idea about replacing my oil pan gasket, and subframe bushings while i was doing the transmission mounts. Never got around to it because i got rear-ended and totaled the car. But i thought id just leave this here...if anyone was thinking of doing a similar job.
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1488936
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05-03-2018, 10:18 PM | #10 |
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Just get the harbor freight engine brace w/ 20% coupon and drop the subframe. Way easier than you think, and cheaper than a radiator.
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