[jyjimenez3]

OK so im in a pickle Ive been chasing down this 30ff code and for about a week . so far ive replaced all my vacuum lines and now im removing my down pipes to check my rear inlit. was able to see that it was slightly off but their is no way that can give me a 30ff code. So come down to the line . I need new turbos , Im a college students but i have money to spend on turbos, but i am trying to not spend $$ because i would be dipping into my investments. I just want oem specs, with out bmw charge of 4K$. ive heard of RB turbos which seems like a good option for my pockets. I was also considering sending them to turbo lab of America to get refurbished. Any guidance will help.

[jyjimenez3]

suggestions on these ?

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-mitsubis...1657649290~va/

[fordbaxter]

There are a lot of opinions on aftermarket turbo options but if you're looking for something very cost conscious you could try out the FrankenTurbo F21Bi setup that's been in the works and recently come out. I have RB Next Gens and the total was $3000 ish so a little more but they've been extremely reliable and perfect for me. If you're not looking to make 450whp+ you're probably best off getting OEM replacement turbos like the ones you sent in that link

[MJ80.]

Id be going the frankens if on a budget mate, hes making all the right changes as his testing progresses, dont spin them too hard and id bet it would be a good upgrade for small $.

[jyjimenez3]

did some research on those frankens and not alot of feedback . im trying to go through the longevity route. But those are steal for only 2000$ very interesting .also from what i read its preorder/betaTesting. and i kinda need turbos asap .

[GEOS07335i]

I am in the process of looking for a new pair of snails as well.

Is the verdict out on the Franken's it seems they have been in development for ages and a lot of bashing was going on. I'd be interested in seeing dyno's on a typical FBO car with out meth just e-mix.

I've seen people make close if not over 500rwp on stock tubro's with 60E-Mix Stg2LPFP / inlets, outlets and full FBO. I would think that's really pushing the snails hard though.

[Jklad]

If your a college kid and don't want to deal with issues and bs and don't need more than 425-450 hp, recommend go with mitsu oem replacements that you found. You can buy from fcp euro for their lifetime warranty. About 800 each, 150 for install kit, and 1000 labor give or take. If you haven't replaced your water pump or thermostat and have 70k or more miles on them, this would be a great time to do that also, just make sure to purchase Bmw branded for those two parts.

Also a great time to replace your engine mounts with the 335is version to prevent something really bad from happening.

Oh- Make sure to replace your vacuum lines, at least those that go from the turbos to the boost solenoids while it's all apart.

[blau iii]

I just went through through everything you did... Vacuum lines, boost solenoids, PCV, etc. Ended up taking off my JB4 and still had rattle and only making half boost. My rear turbo was toast.

Ended up going OEM. I'm FBO with about 95k miles, don't plan on meth/e85 or anything else so thought I'd go with what has handled tuning for the 50k miles. I bitched at BMW and got them to cover the cost of the turbos, I had to pay labor at the dealer to the tune of $1800 but with the piece of mind of having someone to fix it if they blow again. my dealer is mod friendly though. They're even putting my DPs back on for me (i offered to bring in the OEM Dps)

[jyjimenez3]

Originally Posted by Jklad

If your a college kid and don't want to deal with issues and bs and don't need more than 425-450 hp, recommend go with mitsu oem replacements that you found. You can buy from fcp euro for their lifetime warranty. About 800 each, 150 for install kit, and 1000 labor give or take. If you haven't replaced your water pump or thermostat and have 70k or more miles on them, this would be a great time to do that also, just make sure to purchase Bmw branded for those two parts.

Also a great time to replace your engine mounts with the 335is version to prevent something really bad from happening.

Oh- Make sure to replace your vacuum lines, at least those that go from the turbos to the boost solenoids while it's all apart.

yea i just replaced all my vacuum lines and did my waterpump and thermostat last winter, replaced my vanos solenoids, my car has about 123k . i do all my work. i want to tackle the turbo myself but i am bit nervous since this would be this biggest job ive done.

[jyjimenez3]

Originally Posted by blau iii

I just went through through everything you did... Vacuum lines, boost solenoids, PCV, etc. Ended up taking off my JB4 and still had rattle and only making half boost. My rear turbo was toast.

Ended up going OEM. I'm FBO with about 95k miles, don't plan on meth/e85 or anything else so thought I'd go with what has handled tuning for the 50k miles. I bitched at BMW and got them to cover the cost of the turbos, I had to pay labor at the dealer to the tune of $1800 but with the piece of mind of having someone to fix it if they blow again. my dealer is mod friendly though. They're even putting my DPs back on for me (i offered to bring in the OEM Dps)

i hope its not the turbos but at the same time im excited to get new ones and those fcp euro deal on life time warranty sounds sweet.

[blau iii]

Originally Posted by jyjimenez3

i hope its not the turbos but at the same time im excited to get new ones and those fcp euro deal on life time warranty sounds sweet.

I was close on buying those too! I've done all the same repairs as you, it's not bad once you read over the diy's.

[GEOS07335i]

Originally Posted by Jklad

If your a college kid and don't want to deal with issues and bs and don't need more than 425-450 hp, recommend go with mitsu oem replacements that you found. You can buy from fcp euro for their lifetime warranty. About 800 each, 150 for install kit, and 1000 labor give or take. If you haven't replaced your water pump or thermostat and have 70k or more miles on them, this would be a great time to do that also, just make sure to purchase Bmw branded for those two parts.

Also a great time to replace your engine mounts with the 335is version to prevent something really bad from happening.

Oh- Make sure to replace your vacuum lines, at least those that go from the turbos to the boost solenoids while it's all apart.

Where did you find the install kit for $150? I know RB Turbo's has one but I think it's $200+ I may tackle this my self if I can find a cheap set. $1600 is more than I want to spend and I still need to replace my VC and injectors with index 12's.

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by GEOS07335i

Where did you find the install kit for $150? I know RB Turbo's has one but I think it's $200+ I may tackle this my self if I can find a cheap set. $1600 is more than I want to spend and I still need to replace my VC and injectors with index 12's.

Sorry, it's $214 on ecs site. But likely has some stuff you may not need, which you can ask them to remove to lower cost.

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

We have a couple options in your price range -will send you a PM with more info.

Chris

[techwhiz]

Originally Posted by jyjimenez3

OK so im in a pickle Ive been chasing down this 30ff code and for about a week . so far ive replaced all my vacuum lines and now im removing my down pipes to check my rear inlit. was able to see that it was slightly off but their is no way that can give me a 30ff code. So come down to the line . I need new turbos , Im a college students but i have money to spend on turbos, but i am trying to not spend $$ because i would be dipping into my investments. I just want oem specs, with out bmw charge of 4K$. ive heard of RB turbos which seems like a good option for my pockets. I was also considering sending them to turbo lab of America to get refurbished. Any guidance will help.

Check for a crack around the nipple on those vacuum bottles on the passenger side. Also check the lines, etc at the recirculating valves. I had a small leak in both places causing me codes.

As far as snails.
Unless you are going all out and actually even if you were, buy from a distributer of the turbo you want installed and let them install it.

I live close to VTT and that is the only turbo I would get because if I let them do the install, they own it. No debate on if it was done right if there are issues.

Same thing with RB, etc.

Get them from someone that resells them and installs them.
You will thank me if there is an issue.

[///Mposter]

Just wanted to drop these images. I hope you were able to figure out if a component was not working. Boost solenoids, or missed a broken line near the brake booster or over the engine.

[///Mposter]

Just wanted to drop these images. I hope you were able to figure out if a component was not working. Boost solenoids, or missed a broken line near the brake booster or over the engine.

[jyjimenez3]

Originally Posted by ///Mposter

Just wanted to drop these images. I hope you were able to figure out if a component was not working. Boost solenoids, or missed a broken line near the brake booster or over the engine.

ok ill look but i replaced those lines already yesterday. now its not a loud the siren but it may be the rear outlet becuase it looks a bit off.

[jyjimenez3]

Originally Posted by ///Mposter

Just wanted to drop these images. I hope you were able to figure out if a component was not working. Boost solenoids, or missed a broken line near the brake booster or over the engine.

also how do i know if the lines are closed on the boost solinoid . the pictures shos the same ones

[TemjinX2]

you have to test the boost solenoids. burger turning as a good video on how to test it...there few others on youtube. that would be the next thing to test since there pretty cheap i think there like $75 each.

[hcopeland]

For everyone recommending frankenturbos:

I would remain skeptical. The turbos seem like a great product but the company is a little sketchy. They got caught faking data and their compressor map was found to be photoshopped from the OEM maps. Not saying I’ve seen or tried the turbos but there’s a lot of sketchyness with the frankenturbo company

[jyjimenez3]

ok i i red did all the vacuum lines, re plugged my rear turbo inlet(had to remove my downpipes, and swapped the cheap ebay vanos solenoid with the original ones and the noise went away !!! but i took about like 4 full WOT pulls and after the 4th i go the 30ff and now the 002C7C. i can hear the turbos everytime i down shift but i am getting no boost now. i will be testing the boost solenoids this weekend.

ps i did remove my downpipes and unplugged the censors too