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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > FMIC C-clip help!



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      06-16-2018, 05:14 PM   #1
milfriez
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FMIC C-clip help!

Trying to transfer my c-clips from stock FMIC to the new Phoenix racing from BMS. I can’t for the life of me figure out how the heck to get these things back on!

Can anyone help with a diagram or something? I watched the install video on YouTube where they show it just slides over, but mine refuses to do that. I’m positive it’s user error, just need some help. I’m dead in the water with my DD until I get this sorted.

Thanks!
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      06-16-2018, 11:24 PM   #2
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Keep trying. It’ll snap in for sure. It can only go on one way.
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      06-17-2018, 10:00 AM   #3
milfriez
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The oem pipe has external notches for the clip to seat, this one does not. I’ll upload a pic shortly
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      06-17-2018, 12:04 PM   #4
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Last edited by milfriez; 06-17-2018 at 01:36 PM.. Reason: Photo not showing
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      06-17-2018, 12:07 PM   #5
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Last edited by milfriez; 06-17-2018 at 01:36 PM..
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      06-17-2018, 01:52 PM   #6
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Take the C Clip and just push it onto the part with the groove. When I had my intercooler it didn't really matter which way it was facing. Just make sure the sides of the C Clips go into where the cutouts are in the groove. If they don't stay in there tight, you may need to make those cut outs a bit longer (I used a Dremel to do so and than it worked great)
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      06-17-2018, 02:13 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by White330 View Post
Take the C Clip and just push it onto the part with the groove. When I had my intercooler it didn't really matter which way it was facing. Just make sure the sides of the C Clips go into where the cutouts are in the groove. If they don't stay in there tight, you may need to make those cut outs a bit longer (I used a Dremel to do so and than it worked great)
DUDE!!! Lifesaver!! I kept looking to see how those things were supposed to seat. THEY DONT!! Not like OEM at least, they just lock into place once you jam them up from the bottom.

THANK YOU! Now to try and button this thing up as soon as possible. Hoping im not in for hours of trimming also.
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      06-17-2018, 02:35 PM   #8
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Glad I could help! They didn't make it super clear with the instructions so I just had to figure it out. Good luck with the rest of the install
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      06-17-2018, 03:51 PM   #9
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I’m glad this got worked out...y’all had me reading this intently as I’m going to be doing this work later this week...
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      06-17-2018, 04:21 PM   #10
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Well got it back up and together, the FMIC on the driver side was a real PITA to get to lock in. It clicked, but I can't tell if its in all the way or not. I just took it out for a quick spin and it keeps stumbling and stalling.

*side note* also upgraded TMAP sensor since I thought mine was faulty. Not sure if that is playing into it or not.
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      06-17-2018, 05:10 PM   #11
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You should be able to pull on both sides without them separating from the connections. I noticed with mine, the clips had to be oriented just right or it wasn't sealing properly. Did you just replace the map? or did you end up going with a N20?
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      06-17-2018, 06:22 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by White330 View Post
You should be able to pull on both sides without them separating from the connections. I noticed with mine, the clips had to be oriented just right or it wasn't sealing properly. Did you just replace the map? or did you end up going with a N20?
You're right, that's what I had to do at first was keep moving the clip left and right and trying to pull it closed. Eventually I heard a slight click and I couldn't move the clip left or right anymore. It's holding, and the clip has a lot more resistance on it than when it wasn't locking, so I'm assuming it's in there. I had to undo the whole charge pipe and just connect the lower charge pipe and then put the top part with BOV back together. It was the only way it would fit.

I upgraded to the N20 4bar.
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      06-17-2018, 06:45 PM   #13
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How high of boost are you running? The MAP upgrade is for being able to read 20+ PSI reliably not so much an upgrade if just running stock levels. Are you running MHD or JB4?
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      06-17-2018, 08:06 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milfriez View Post
Well got it back up and together, the FMIC on the driver side was a real PITA to get to lock in. It clicked, but I can't tell if its in all the way or not. I just took it out for a quick spin and it keeps stumbling and stalling.

*side note* also upgraded TMAP sensor since I thought mine was faulty. Not sure if that is playing into it or not.
So...did you get the stalling figured out? Also...is your intercooler using the OEM hoses or did you replace?
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      06-18-2018, 08:51 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by White330 View Post
How high of boost are you running? The MAP upgrade is for being able to read 20+ PSI reliably not so much an upgrade if just running stock levels. Are you running MHD or JB4?
Right now, I'd be lucky to hit 12 PSI.

It's going in for Pure Stg2's first week of July, so I'm putting the foundation in place right now, so that it has supporting mods in place when they go in.
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      06-18-2018, 08:54 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Bimmer_Engineer View Post
So...did you get the stalling figured out? Also...is your intercooler using the OEM hoses or did you replace?
I think the stalling might have been from not changing the setting on the JB4 to 4bar TMAP. Once I changed that, the idle smoothed out and it hasn't stalled yet.

Although, on the way into work today something popped loose, I could feel it building then just fall on its face. I'm hoping its just one of the V-bands somewhere and not the IC.

Having two people for the IC would have made a huge difference I think. I went at it alone, and it was a real PITA even for direct bolt-in. I have an aftermarket CP, but other than that, it's just using stock connections.
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      06-18-2018, 10:11 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milfriez View Post

Having two people for the IC would have made a huge difference I think. I went at it alone, and it was a real PITA even for direct bolt-in. I have an aftermarket CP, but other than that, it's just using stock connections.
So I'm likely going to be going it alone also...any tips about what look out for?
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      06-18-2018, 12:44 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milfriez View Post
I think the stalling might have been from not changing the setting on the JB4 to 4bar TMAP. Once I changed that, the idle smoothed out and it hasn't stalled yet.

Although, on the way into work today something popped loose, I could feel it building then just fall on its face. I'm hoping its just one of the V-bands somewhere and not the IC.

Having two people for the IC would have made a huge difference I think. I went at it alone, and it was a real PITA even for direct bolt-in. I have an aftermarket CP, but other than that, it's just using stock connections.
Yeah I went at alone as well and it wasn’t as easy as I expected. I kept having the same issue my self until I learned it actually wasn’t completely sealed. It made that initial click but after I went back and pushed as hard as I could it clicked again and BAM my power was back. What I learned was that my O-Ring inside the lower charge pipe shifted and wasn’t allowing it to seal all the way and I could tell by seeing a little gap between the 2 connection points
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      06-18-2018, 01:34 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by White330 View Post
Yeah I went at alone as well and it wasn’t as easy as I expected. I kept having the same issue my self until I learned it actually wasn’t completely sealed. It made that initial click but after I went back and pushed as hard as I could it clicked again and BAM my power was back. What I learned was that my O-Ring inside the lower charge pipe shifted and wasn’t allowing it to seal all the way and I could tell by seeing a little gap between the 2 connection points
Man!! Where were you yesterday?!!

I am 100% sure that my CP popped off the throttle body again, I can see it, so that was probably the drop in boost I felt earlier.

That being said, I was struggling like a mad man yesterday to get the driver's side clip to fully seat. It would make a small click, but like you said, I can still see a small portion of the metal sticking out. I pushed and pushed and tried shoving it in, and using my legs and everything. I just couldn't get enough leverage for it to go all the way in. I'm wondering if that is what my problem is. The passenger side clicked in with minimal issues, the driver's side was a nightmare and almost had me giving up.

Short of dropping the whole FMIC out again, was there an easy fix for it? Could you just loosen the screws enough to fish out the O-ring and reseat it? that HAS to be my issue also. I bet if I got the CP back onto the throttle body, once that was stable, the fmic would pop, which is the last thing I want to happen. Right now im cruising without the plastic cover on the bottom, until I was sure everything was good to go.
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      06-19-2018, 05:16 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milfriez View Post
Man!! Where were you yesterday?!!

I am 100% sure that my CP popped off the throttle body again, I can see it, so that was probably the drop in boost I felt earlier.

That being said, I was struggling like a mad man yesterday to get the driver's side clip to fully seat. It would make a small click, but like you said, I can still see a small portion of the metal sticking out. I pushed and pushed and tried shoving it in, and using my legs and everything. I just couldn't get enough leverage for it to go all the way in. I'm wondering if that is what my problem is. The passenger side clicked in with minimal issues, the driver's side was a nightmare and almost had me giving up.

Short of dropping the whole FMIC out again, was there an easy fix for it? Could you just loosen the screws enough to fish out the O-ring and reseat it? that HAS to be my issue also. I bet if I got the CP back onto the throttle body, once that was stable, the fmic would pop, which is the last thing I want to happen. Right now im cruising without the plastic cover on the bottom, until I was sure everything was good to go.
What I did was, undid the charge pipe and lower charge pipe completely. At that point I was able to maneuver around the one side while keeping the passenger side on. when I put it all back together, I put the lower charge pipe into the intercooler first. That way I have as much movement in it necessary to get it in. But let me tell you it took damn near everything I had to get it in there even after doing everything I did.
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      07-06-2018, 07:32 AM   #21
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So I finally got around to installing his yesterday. I didn't have any issues with the c clips, but the mounting bolts are giving me fits. Any issues with the fit on the passengers side? The drivers side fits fine but the passenger side feels like it's wedged on something. I can force it into place but it just doesn't want to stay...any tips?
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      07-06-2018, 12:12 PM   #22
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Well I finally got it back together...I added a 2" long sheet metal screw that was not intended by the Bavarian engineering group. I put in a stainless zip tie just in case too... 😳
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