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      07-02-2018, 03:20 AM   #1
turbos335i
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Broken spark plug

So I was changing my spark plugs today and when I used the torque wrench at 17, I guess it didn't make a click and I kept going until I felt the spark plug snap. The plug came out with the porcelain but the thread stayed stuck inside.
Has anyone been able to take it out with a certain tool causing no damage? I have been searching for a specific BMW spark plug extractor and I can't find one?
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      07-02-2018, 08:07 AM   #2
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I cant tell from the picture if the actual electrode has fallen into the cylinder or is stuck in place.. Your best bet is get a reverse thread extractor. Far as I know their is no special BMW tool I've ever heard of or seen in 6 years at the dealership
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      07-02-2018, 02:41 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Bavarian Tech View Post
I cant tell from the picture if the actual electrode has fallen into the cylinder or is stuck in place.. Your best bet is get a reverse thread extractor. Far as I know their is no special BMW tool I've ever heard of or seen in 6 years at the dealership

Thanks, Man I found a couple reviews using some tools to take it out. Hopefully, it works with no damage
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      07-02-2018, 03:16 PM   #4
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You should be able to easily remove the broken thread portion of the spark plug using an easy-out screw extractor. Google [easy out] for more info. Don't go cheap. Get a good quality name brand set. The last thing you want to do is break a cheap brittle easy-out off in that spark plug shank.
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      07-02-2018, 03:20 PM   #5
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I would tape all of the extension pieces needed together with several wraps of quality name brand black electrical tape so that they don't come apart when you are trying to lift the extractor back out of the hole after you have backed out the broken spark plug.
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      07-02-2018, 03:30 PM   #6
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And 17 ft-lbs seems like way more torque than necessary for spark plugs in an aluminum head. Did you have any anti-seize or lubricant on the plug threads? If so, you need to reduce the specified torque value by 20-25%; otherwise, you risk over stressing the threads. Most torque specs are based on clean and dry threads.

I never use a torque wrench for spark plugs. I just use a short handle ratchet and don't over do it. You can feel when the new spark plug crush washer is fully collapsed.
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      07-02-2018, 06:28 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by arkie6 View Post
And 17 ft-lbs seems like way more torque than necessary for spark plugs in an aluminum head. Did you have any anti-seize or lubricant on the plug threads? If so, you need to reduce the specified torque value by 20-25%; otherwise, you risk over stressing the threads. Most torque specs are based on clean and dry threads.

I never use a torque wrench for spark plugs. I just use a short handle ratchet and don't over do it. You can feel when the new spark plug crush washer is fully collapsed.
Thanks man I'll probably just use that instead of the torque wrench. I'm scared of it now and I didn't use any type of lube on it, This was my first time changing them looking at a video on youtube.
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      07-02-2018, 06:34 PM   #8
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Let's see how this goes, I have the liquid wrench soaking on it. I just don't know if I should leave it overnight or a few hours?

Last edited by turbos335i; 07-02-2018 at 06:54 PM..
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      07-02-2018, 09:00 PM   #9
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So happy!!! It came out so easy! I barely gave it a tap, turned it and it came right out!!!
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      07-02-2018, 11:46 PM   #10
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Good job! I bet you are relieved.

What kind of torque wrench were you using and what was its range of adjustment? Torque wrenches generally aren't considered to be all that accurate in the bottom 20% of their range. If you are using a torque wrench rated to go up to 100 ft-lbs, then don't use it to torque anything less than 20 ft-lbs.
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      07-03-2018, 12:38 AM   #11
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Good job! I bet you are relieved.

What kind of torque wrench were you using and what was its range of adjustment? Torque wrenches generally aren't considered to be all that accurate in the bottom 20% of their range. If you are using a torque wrench rated to go up to 100 ft-lbs, then don't use it to torque anything less than 20 ft-lbs.
I was relieved and all until I turned it on an seen a bit of white smoke come out of the pipes and some by the engine. I'm thinking it was that spray I used to soak the thread, After like 30 seconds of the car running the misfire started all over. It's giving me combustion misfire on cylinder 1 and that's the one that had the broken spark plug. I'll check it out tomorrow and see whats up.
To answer your question about the torque wrench, I used one from harbor freights that a friend let me borrow at 17lbs. That's the one that broke it. This time I just used a ratchet.
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      07-03-2018, 07:45 AM   #12
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The white smoke was likely the penetrating spray you sprayed down there. Was this misfire happening before the spark plug change? If you are having a mis-fire on that cylinder, try swapping that coil with another one and see if the misfire moves. That was a problem I had a while back and swapping coils confirmed it was a failed coil. I replaced all of the coils with new Bosch coils and no more misfires.
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      07-03-2018, 09:25 AM   #13
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One time I broke a glow plug on in my VW diesel's head and then ruined the head trying to get it out. Had to replace the head, was out a car for weeks while I ordered parts and got a used head in.

This thread gave me major flashback anxiety, I'm so glad it worked out for you, haha!
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      07-03-2018, 09:44 AM   #14
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I don't even bother with the torque wrench, hand tight then a quarter turn.
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      07-05-2018, 02:41 PM   #15
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Holy shit, I would have died if this happened to me. Glad you got the broken threads out.
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      11-07-2019, 06:18 PM   #16
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Sorry for the bump but I had the EXACT same thing happen to me yesterday. It was the worse the worst feeling in my life. Thankfully I was able to get it out using this exact same method. The biggest thing was the porcelain did not break inside otherwise that would have been a nightmare to drill out.. car is running fine now.
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Last edited by N54_e90; 11-07-2019 at 07:37 PM..
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      11-07-2019, 06:25 PM   #17
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Man....you guys must be torquing the hell out of spark plugs to snap them off like that. I've given up using a torque wrench on plugs.....after your done a bunch, you can feel when you hit the squish ring, and then feel when you compress the ring. Usually 1/4-1/2 turn after you bottom it out by hand. I bet I've changed over 100 plugs in different cars....never had an issue.

Also...make sure you always install and remove them with the engine cold (at least on an aluminum block motor).

Glad you guys were able to get those broken thread sections out....I would have had a heart attack!!
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      11-07-2019, 07:38 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iqraceworks View Post
Man....you guys must be torquing the hell out of spark plugs to snap them off like that. I've given up using a torque wrench on plugs.....after your done a bunch, you can feel when you hit the squish ring, and then feel when you compress the ring. Usually 1/4-1/2 turn after you bottom it out by hand. I bet I've changed over 100 plugs in different cars....never had an issue.

Also...make sure you always install and remove them with the engine cold (at least on an aluminum block motor).

Glad you guys were able to get those broken thread sections out....I would have had a heart attack!!
yea defintely will not be using a torque wrench going forward on plugs.. not sure what happened tbh but im glad as well!
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      11-08-2019, 11:21 AM   #19
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If you have a quality torque wrench and use it correctly you should not run in to this scary problem. Some torque wrenches are within the 1-3% accuracy range.
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