[darius6745]

had this light come on today



Manual says it means loss of power but the car drives the same. Turned it off and back on again now its gone. Any ideas?

thanks

[upshift_downshift]

Originally Posted by darius6745

had this light come on today



Manual says it means loss of power but the car drives the same. Turned it off and back on again now its gone. Any ideas?

thanks

No way to tell without codes. If it didn't come back, I wouldn't worry about it.

[darius6745]

it came back on again tonight. seems to be under heavy load. will get it to a garage and see what comes up.

[darius6745]

these are the codes i got:

2F6C - Exhaust valve. actuation
2AAF - Fuel pump, plausibility
30FF - Charging pressure control, boost pressure too low

Now the 30FF one im really worried about because i have noticed a rattle on de-acceleration which im 99% sure is the waste gates, meaning the turbos are shagged

[gJefe]

When they (or you) read the codes, they also deleted them? Cause then you know if its returning

[darius6745]

no they didnt delete them

[upshift_downshift]

Originally Posted by darius6745

these are the codes i got:

2F6C - Exhaust valve. actuation
2AAF - Fuel pump, plausibility
30FF - Charging pressure control, boost pressure too low

Now the 30FF one im really worried about because i have noticed a rattle on de-acceleration which im 99% sure is the waste gates, meaning the turbos are shagged

2F6C means someone did the golf tee mod.
2AAF means your HPFP may be on its way out
30FF is probably wastegates, since they are rattling on decel.

Do you notice significant turbo lag?

[darius6745]

Originally Posted by upshift_downshift

2F6C means someone did the golf tee mod.
2AAF means your HPFP may be on its way out
30FF is probably wastegates, since they are rattling on decel.

Do you notice significant turbo lag?

yes seems to take ages for turbos to kick in

[upshift_downshift]

Originally Posted by darius6745

yes seems to take ages for turbos to kick in

Then yes, your wastegates are done and you need new turbos if you want this problem to go away. Sorry

[darius6745]

Only had the car 10 days lol, good job the garage I bought it from are fixing it

[Jedi_Romeo]

I had all these codes..... believe it or not.... oil and filter change... never came back.

[Jedi_Romeo]

my wastegates were rattling but not causing faults... kicked in @ around 2000rpm .
the oil change stopped my wot cel conditions.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by upshift_downshift

Then yes, your wastegates are done and you need new turbos if you want this problem to go away. Sorry

How much are new turbos or what do people do regularly here?

I read it wasl ike 7K at BMW dealer. If indy shop it was still expensive because it's like 16 hour labor time?

So if you rebuild they still cost like, 3k right?

[Jedi_Romeo]

I got quoted 2k for new turbos inc fitting. but mine are currently being rebuilt by universal turbos for £700 with thicker stronger parts as I believe they will last longer than new stock turbos. labour for removal and refit £600 plus i am changing oil return lines as per recommendation

[Jedi_Romeo]

bmw quoted almost 3k for the same mitsubishi turbos you can purchase for £1300 the pair. just without the bmw stamp.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by Jedi_Romeo

bmw quoted almost 3k for the same mitsubishi turbos you can purchase for £1300 the pair. just without the bmw stamp.

Damn yeah still costly.

I'm only at 90 000km (55k miles) so hopefully they won't break pre-maturely. Just got the car used.

But I looked at a DIY for fun and it doesn't seem THAT bad if you don't need your car everyday and can stay in the garage for a few.

Really just the cost of the turbos.

[upshift_downshift]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

How much are new turbos or what do people do regularly here?

I read it wasl ike 7K at BMW dealer. If indy shop it was still expensive because it's like 16 hour labor time?

So if you rebuild they still cost like, 3k right?

It was roughly $3700 at an indy shop in Atlanta for me (varies by location). They did all genuine BMW parts. I recommend getting the oil pan gasket done at the same time if you haven't already. You will save a ton on labor doing that.

However, I would recommend getting some with upgraded wastegate parts, like from RB Turbo. Even new stock parts will have looseness in the wastegate, at least they do in my case. I chose the stock parts at the time because the shop could offer a 2-yr warranty on parts and labor, but would not warranty labor on the RB Turbos.

[Jedi_Romeo]

sorry I didn't realise you are in the states... in UK the garage would be responsible for the fix after only 10 days. I dont know if its the same law where you live?

[darius6745]

Ok so took a quick video of the noise. Can someone confirm or deny if this is the dreaded waste gate rattle

[BashShah]

Originally Posted by darius6745

Ok so took a quick video of the noise. Can someone confirm or deny if this is the dreaded waste gate rattle

Sounds like it.
Ummm...... Just so you understand.
The Wastegate is making ONLY part of the Noise. Most of the Noise is coming from a ROD connected to an the Wastegate at one end and Vacuum actuator at the other end.

The ROD is LOOSE and it creates most of these noises.
at 7:34 mins in this video, if you touch this rod and move it, you will see what I am saying.

First and foremost, change ALL of your Vacuum lines.
30FF is a Vacuum leak Code not a turbo issue.

The ROD Can be adjusted to lower the Rattle, BUT everyone says it comes back in time.
the ONLY Ture way to fix it is to either replace or Turbo or Rebuild them.

[darius6745]

quick update.

Had the car to a bmw specialist and they have confirmed the turbos are shagged and also the turbo modules and the vacuum hoses.

So the garage I bought it from have been great and are paying for all this work. A total of £4500!

[darius6745]

Just an update. 2 brand new turbos later and the exhaust rattle is still there. 😩 ffs

No idea what it is, anyone?