[Concorde]

Posting this to ask for advice and potentially help others fix their rattle in the future.


Hi guys, finally decided to try to adjust my wastegates arms a couple of weeks ago (by my local mechanic). As expected, the rear one was relatively easy to perform and that significantly reduced the rattle, but I still had the very nasty rattle on deceleration. We then did the front turbo using the 2 washer method, but unfortunately, that almost had zero effect on that remaining rattle. Based on forum feedback, I thought that would at least help a little, but did almost Nothing.

Do you guys think I should try to add another set of washer (for a total of 4 washer stacked) ? Has this happened to someone else ?

FYI. I don’t think I have any vacuum leak as I inspected my lines and can’t see any damage. I’m sure this rattle I’m hearing is the wastegate. Car is not throwing any codes and runs perfectly other than that stupid rattle.


Thanks !

[Had0uken!]

You sure the remaining rattle is still coming from the front turbo? usually the rear is the main culprit. Could try capping off the front turbo vac line and seeing if the rattle is still there to verify which turbo it's coming from and then further adjust as needed.

Also did you remove the engine cover and check the lines that run under here? they're the ones that are usually prone to cracking and can be hard to spot as they go under the cover and behind the oil filter housing.

[Concorde]

Originally Posted by Had0uken!

You sure the remaining rattle is still coming from the front turbo? usually the rear is the main culprit. Could try capping off the front turbo vac line and seeing if the rattle is still there to verify which turbo it's coming from and then further adjust as needed.

Also did you remove the engine cover and check the lines that run under here? they're the ones that are usually prone to cracking and can be hard to spot as they go under the cover and behind the oil filter housing.

I was quite sure it was the front one. Here's what I do to valdiate : With the car in neutral, I have someone rev it to recreate the rattle on decal. When I apply some pressure to the rear arm with a pry bar, the rattle sound doesn’t change at all. I figured if the rattle came from the rear set, the pressure form the pry bar on the arm should at least change the tone or help reduce the rattle, but it makes no difference. I can’t do the same with the front set obviously.

Regarding vacuum line, I remember reading somewhere that both line are actually a single line as they merge at some point in the system, can anyone confirm ? If that’s the case, it means we can’t use separate vacuum lines to troubleshoot the rattle source, correct ?

[Had0uken!]

Not sure on how you're testing it with the pry bar - if you're not using the wastegate rattle fix settings on your map the rear wastegate will already be shut when you let off the throttle (or as shut as the arm allows it to be) so if you're using a pry bar to keep that wastegate shut it will only let you shut it as far as the arm will go anyway (unless your using the pry bar to try keep it forced open)?.

Either way it's easier to test by disconnecting the vac lines, you'll see at the side of the engine cover theres 2 boost solenoids with vac lines tied in, both solenoids do actually tie into a single line but theres a seperate vac line going to each turbo - disconnect the rear vac line from the tee above the rear solenoid and then plug the other end and try starting the car and testing then - this way the rear turbo vac line is disconnected from the rest of the circuit so will stay open. If you're rattle is still there then it's the front (and vice versa)

[feuer]

Rattle can come from multiple sources and adjusting the wastegate actuator arm isn't the fix. This issue has been discussed over and over again over the years. Find and read the relevant threads.

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by Concorde

Posting this to ask for advice and potentially help others fix their rattle in the future.


Hi guys, finally decided to try to adjust my wastegates arms a couple of weeks ago (by my local mechanic). As expected, the rear one was relatively easy to perform and that significantly reduced the rattle, but I still had the very nasty rattle on deceleration. We then did the front turbo using the 2 washer method, but unfortunately, that almost had zero effect on that remaining rattle. Based on forum feedback, I thought that would at least help a little, but did almost Nothing.

Do you guys think I should try to add another set of washer (for a total of 4 washer stacked) ? Has this happened to someone else ?

FYI. I don’t think I have any vacuum leak as I inspected my lines and can’t see any damage. I’m sure this rattle I’m hearing is the wastegate. Car is not throwing any codes and runs perfectly other than that stupid rattle.


Thanks !

My advice is if you are over 70k miles and have not yet replaced all your vacuum lines, start by replacing all of them even if you can't see a tear. The tears and cracks can be very hard to distinguish, especially if there's some grime from years of use. They are cheap and easy to diy. Don't forget the lines from the intake mani to dv.

[Concorde]

Originally Posted by feuer

Rattle can come from multiple sources and adjusting the wastegate actuator arm isn't the fix. This issue has been discussed over and over again over the years. Find and read the relevant threads.

Thanks, I already know that but spending 4-5 grand to replace perfectly good working turbos (aside from the rattle of course) on a car worth 10 grand doesn't make much sense (disclaimer : CAD money, just rough numbers)

This is just a temporary fix until there is a "real" reason to replace turbos.

[Concorde]

Originally Posted by Had0uken!

Not sure on how you're testing it with the pry bar - if you're not using the wastegate rattle fix settings on your map the rear wastegate will already be shut when you let off the throttle (or as shut as the arm allows it to be) so if you're using a pry bar to keep that wastegate shut it will only let you shut it as far as the arm will go anyway (unless your using the pry bar to try keep it forced open)?.

Either way it's easier to test by disconnecting the vac lines, you'll see at the side of the engine cover theres 2 boost solenoids with vac lines tied in, both solenoids do actually tie into a single line but theres a seperate vac line going to each turbo - disconnect the rear vac line from the tee above the rear solenoid and then plug the other end and try starting the car and testing then - this way the rear turbo vac line is disconnected from the rest of the circuit so will stay open. If you're rattle is still there then it's the front (and vice versa)

Thanks ! I had never read about that troubleshooting procedure, I'll try to give it a shot. If I can pinpoint exactly which turbo is problematic that will help a lot. thanks again

[Concorde]

Originally Posted by Jklad

My advice is if you are over 70k miles and have not yet replaced all your vacuum lines, start by replacing all of them even if you can't see a tear. The tears and cracks can be very hard to distinguish, especially if there's some grime from years of use. They are cheap and easy to diy. Don't forget the lines from the intake mani to dv.

You're right, I should probably do that before any other attempt on the actuator's arms.

[Concorde]

Originally Posted by Jklad

My advice is if you are over 70k miles and have not yet replaced all your vacuum lines, start by replacing all of them even if you can't see a tear. The tears and cracks can be very hard to distinguish, especially if there's some grime from years of use. They are cheap and easy to diy. Don't forget the lines from the intake mani to dv.

Do you think it's possible to have a vacuum leak, but no symptoms aside from wg rattle ?

Ordered some hoses, should receive them in about a week, will try replacing all of them. If no improvement, I'll look into the boost solenoids

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by Concorde

Do you think it's possible to have a vacuum leak, but no symptoms aside from wg rattle ?

Ordered some hoses, should receive them in about a week, will try replacing all of them. If no improvement, I'll look into the boost solenoids

Yup. You can look at replacing the hard lines from the brake booster forward. I would also look at your boost solenoids and honestly would just replace everything along with new vacuum canisters and be done.