[Jtreez8]

So my engine stalled out/died on me as I was driving on the freeway yesterday. I was going roughly 70mph on the freeway and all of a sudden, my engine just stalled out (all electricals were still on, the engine just stopped operating). Luckily I was able to "coast" and pull over to the side of the road safely as it happened. I tried to immediately start it and it cranks but does not not turn over and start. If I let it sit for over 15 minutes it will start. This so far has happened to me four times, in the exact same scenario.

The last time this happened, it left me stranded far from home so I towed it directly to a BMW mechanic. He told me it was the fuel pump and I had him replace it for me. After he replaced the fuel pump I drove it for another 1000 miles or so without any issues.... until yesterday.

At this point i'm not sure what the remedy should be (camshaft sensor/crank shaft sensor/cleaning ICV ... etc). I currently have 155k miles on it. Please advise.

[e90yyc]

First step is to get a BMW scan tool or find someone who has one and pull the codes.

99% chance they will steer you toward the issue at hand.

Trying to guess what an issue is on these cars is not only a futile exercise, it's also unnecessary, because there are so many possible error codes that really get into the minutia of what might be wrong. It's not a perfect science, but it's pretty damn close.

There are a number of choices out there for scan tools, such as Schwaben, Foxwell, or just a $15 K+DCAN cable with free software like INPA. Just don't use a run-of-the-mill OBD scanner as it won't provide specific codes and won't tell the whole story.

[tlow98]

Yeah you need to get it scanned and bring the results here.

[Jtreez8]

Brought the car to both Autozone and Pepboys hoping to get some codes pulled but neither of their devices showed any codes stored. Could it be that it's the equipment not being able to pull codes from a BMW?

I was able to start the car today and don't have any lights (SES etc..) shown in the dash.

Should I go about and purchase a BMW code reader like the MAOZA or LATEST hoping it will be able to pull codes Pepboys or Autozone couldn't?

[bushwa]

Yes. A generic obd3 reader won't tell the full story. It's amazing the info the ecu stores. Example, my car started to overheat on the freeway, pulled over and had it towed. Suspected the water pump. Plugged in the laptop, and could see the error, the exact rpm the ecu was calling for from the pump, the actual speed, the km it happened, engine temp reached, etc.

[Jtreez8]

I purchased the BMW scan tool on amazon and was able to pull the following codes that have been stored:

578E Gearbox oil: Wear
6292 Control Voltage too low
6293 Control current too high
2AAE Fuel pump
A0C1 Output, terminal 50
A0B4 Engine start, starter operation
A0B5 Fault, road speed signal

I'm also getting a "Please Send the Data to Customer Service! SS83 88 03"

These are codes that have been stored and never been cleared since I purchased the car with 90k. Currently the car has 155k miles and the issue i'm having and want to address is that it will stall while driving. At the moment the car starts and drives just fine, but I'm afraid to take it anywhere over 5 miles in fear that it will stall on me again.

I've had the fuel pump replaced 2 months ago and the starter replaced about 6 months ago.

What could be the possible fix to this? I've searched and found others who had similar problems, but in no instance was I able to identity a possible solution.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks!!

[MysticRob]

Clear the codes, drive it till it occurs again, rescan, go from there.

[bmwsarefun]

Jtreez8 did you resolve the issue? I am having the exact same thing happen with my car( 2009 bmw 328i 106k).

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by bmwsarefun

Jtreez8 did you resolve the issue? I am having the exact same thing happen with my car( 2009 bmw 328i 106k).

Have you scanned for any codes? If you do, please take note of the time/mileage when they occurred. The previous posts from a few months ago indicate there may have been some old codes unrelated to the issue he was trying to resolve.

We never heard an update from the original issue. Those symptoms still sound like fuel pump issues to me. I know it was claimed that the pump was replaced and the issue returned, but that still doesn't rule out a faulty replacement pump. It also doesn't state whether the replacement was new or not. I was picking around the local salvage yard last weekend and they had 5 E90s, all of which had the fuel pumps removed. I personally wouldn't take the chance on a used fuel pump and would much rather spend the money for a new pump.

[bmwsarefun]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

Have you scanned for any codes? If you do, please take note of the time/mileage when they occurred. The previous posts from a few months ago indicate there may have been some old codes unrelated to the issue he was trying to resolve.

We never heard an update from the original issue. Those symptoms still sound like fuel pump issues to me. I know it was claimed that the pump was replaced and the issue returned, but that still doesn't rule out a faulty replacement pump. It also doesn't state whether the replacement was new or not. I was picking around the local salvage yard last weekend and they had 5 E90s, all of which had the fuel pumps removed. I personally wouldn't take the chance on a used fuel pump and would much rather spend the money for a new pump.

The only codes it has up P2243 and P0135. I can usually drive the car for up to an hour with no issue. It seems to be happening more after I warm it up for 15 or 20 minutes. Im taking to a shop in the morning that can hopefully diagnose your
Thank you for the response.

[ric]

My advice would be load the inpa software then let the bmwgeeks remote in to your lab top while connected to car. I'm certain they can run test and pull codes where the bmw scanner can't.

[redEYEjedi]

I had a similar situation happen to my E91 328i MT. At first I thought I had stalled the car somehow being a MT, but it kept on happening but randomly. I eventually brought it in to a dealership and they found metal shavings in the oil pan. Ended up getting a new replacement engine from BMW, but I was still under original warranty. It was a 2009 MY and happened in 2012. Not sure if this helps since it's not a great story to hear. Might be a good idea to check your oil.

[gbalthrop]

[QUOTE=bmwsarefun;24181990]...I am having the exact same thing happen with my car( 2009 bmw 328i 106k).[/QUOTE

Originally Posted by bmwsarefun

The only codes it has up P2243 and P0135. I can usually drive the car for up to an hour with no issue. It seems to be happening more after I warm it up for 15 or 20 minutes.

I don't mean to be critical, BUT WAAAY too many posts begin with "I'm having the exact same problem"

Your codes are totally different from those OP reported (and he never reported a resolution/ diagnosis of the issue), so why not start a new thread instead of suggesting your issue is anything like that of someone else, other than perhaps you both had unexplained shutdown on apparently random occasions.

Bentley's definition of your two codes:
P0135 | 2CA6 | 02 Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P2243 | 2C3D | 02 Sensor reference Voltage Circuit Open (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

In your case, BOTH the codes relate to the Pre-cat O2 sensor on Bank 1. That is the forward-most O2 sensor, above the Front Catalytic Converter. It is shown as Component #B62101 in the two TIS Schematics linked below. Click on the BLUE component ID# and select "Installation Location" to see a diagram of where that component/connector is located on your vehicle.

The thing BOTH faults have in common is that they both could be caused by a loose or damaged connector (X62101) which is used by BOTH circuits. The Heater circuit (Orange wire, Pin #4 of Connector X62101) is separate from the Control & Signal circuit which shows the other 5 pins of the 6-pin connector:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...8-fuse/vFbq6N3
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...l-unit/hqIOB9Z

1) Anyone done any work in that area in the days/weeks prior to "issue" beginning? Oil spilled/ leaked in that area?
2) SES light on continuously since issue began?
3) What symptoms is your vehicle displaying?
4) If it cuts out, is it ONLY after warmup?
5) Can you restart immediately after shutdown, or do you have to wait for engine to cool?
6) Did you read Freeze Frame Data related to each of the two codes? At What mileage was each saved, and what is your current mileage/ km? What was ECTS temp (Engine Temp) when code saved?
7) Any OTHER codes saved in the DME other than those two?

Keep in mind that a Fault Code does NOT mean that the sensor itself is bad & needs to be replaced. There may be damaged wiring, connector sockets/ pins, or particularly in the case of O2 sensors, heat damage to wiring insulation, etc., as well as simply a loose or corroded connector. Replacing a component is easy and the shop makes a profit off the part markup in addition to billing for shop time.

Testing of wiring & connectors requires more time & knowledge, and many shops only do that after replacing the part does NOT fix the issue, as trying to explain that concept to the average owner gets glazed-over eyes &/or a LOT of questions.

Please let us know what you/your shop find,
George

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by bmwsarefun

The only codes it has up P2243 and P0135. I can usually drive the car for up to an hour with no issue. It seems to be happening more after I warm it up for 15 or 20 minutes. Im taking to a shop in the morning that can hopefully diagnose your
Thank you for the response.

Those are both Oxygen sensor codes. P2243 is an open circuit on Bank 1 Sensor 1 and P0135 is for the Oxygen Sensor heater circuit. You likely have a bad O2 sensor or a broken/loose connection.

Keep in mind these are generic OBD-II codes. There are much more specific detailed codes stored which can be accessed with the BMW diagnostic software and the appropriate cable. If you take it to a shop, it's important that you go to a BMW specialist equipped with the appropriate diagnostic tools. If it's just a faulty oxygen sensor then any shop will be able to repair it, however you're still better going to a specialist to see the specific BMW fault codes and to check other potential causes.

[jjbarber100]

I had a problem with my 328i randomly shutting off. Prior to this happening I experienced engine miss fires. I replaced all 6 plugs and coils, car starting running strong. Driving home from work I was getting low on fuel (22 Miles to empty) per computer. The engine simply turned off, with the yellow car on lift appearing in the center of the dash. Manual states fuel delivery as one possibility. Having the fuel pump replaced 20,000 miles prior it did not seem like the issue. Walked up the on ramp and got a gallon of gas and it fired back up. Filled up and made it home. Next trip it happened again... After letting the car rest for 10 minutes it would fire back up. 10 miles and it would die again. This happened all the way home 60 miles of stop and go. After a professional scan it revealed the Fuel Pump Control Module failed. Very expensive fix... I was charged $500+ for the part and labor put me right at $980. So far, one month later the car is running without issue. I will also note this primarily happened in very high temps outside (over 90) leading me to believe the module would over heat and cause fuel delivery to fail.

[elijahhall7]

Originally Posted by Jtreez8

So my engine stalled out/died on me as I was driving on the freeway yesterday. I was going roughly 70mph on the freeway and all of a sudden, my engine just stalled out (all electricals were still on, the engine just stopped operating). Luckily I was able to "coast" and pull over to the side of the road safely as it happened. I tried to immediately start it and it cranks but does not not turn over and start. If I let it sit for over 15 minutes it will start. This so far has happened to me four times, in the exact same scenario.

The last time this happened, it left me stranded far from home so I towed it directly to a BMW mechanic. He told me it was the fuel pump and I had him replace it for me. After he replaced the fuel pump I drove it for another 1000 miles or so without any issues.... until yesterday.

At this point i'm not sure what the remedy should be (camshaft sensor/crank shaft sensor/cleaning ICV ... etc). I currently have 155k miles on it. Please advise.

Having the same problem need help

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by elijahhall7

Having the same problem need help

If you haven't replaced the fuel pump and driven ~ 1000 miles, only to have the problem recur, you are NOT "having the same problem."

Rather than have us guess (and provide NO meaningful help), why not start a new thread with as specific a description as you can provide of:
1) What happens?
2) Engine Temp & other conditions when this occurs?
3) How often and during what period (days/weeks) this has occurred?
4) Any maintenance done on car in days prior to first occurrence?
5) Any Fault Codes read?
6) Any warning lights appearing on Dash?

George

[DERRICKGAMBI]

I bought a 2009 BMW 320i (e90) from auction, towed it home. Initially the car was making some crank noise on the timing chain, that's the reason why I couldn't drive it from action location. When it got home we scanned it and we had 21 error codes. we were able to clear all off them apart from code: 0030C1 (ABSENT) DME Engine oil pressure control, static. This could not clear at a all. Also had a battery light going off but the car could still start - meaning I got to replace the battery.

To sort timing chain problem, the mechanic fastened a bolt down there and the timing chain noise cleared. Then he did a full engine service (oil, oil filter, plugs and air filter) and he was of the opinion we change the timing chain, anyway.

The next day I started the car without problem and driving for about 10miles SERVICE light came on the dash and kept on driving 50m/h for around 15miles and when I stopped at the lights the car engine died off. I tried to start it back several times without success, I had to tow it back to the mech. When I got there he picked another battery + jumper cables and the car engine kicked and super powerful. I left it with the mech and today he called me saying the car died again on the road the same way - Service lights comes on dash and engine stops.

Kindly help.

Derrickgambi@gmail.com