[pjr710]

I need to replace my brake fluid ... and I would feel bad if I didn't bleed my clutch at the same time (especially since i'm replacing tranny fluid)

I am prepping now with buying tools .. I like a vacuum bleeder over the pressurized master cylinder tools.

But will the vacuum bleeder work for bleeding the clutch?

[nsjames]

yes.

but honestly pressure bleeding is easier, faster and works better.

as someone that's had a mityvac for a long time, I don't use it unless I can't adapt my motive unit to the master cylinder.
reverse pressure bleeding works exceptionally well for clutches since they usually have such a near vertical line.

[pjr710]

Originally Posted by nsjames

yes.

but honestly pressure bleeding is easier, faster and works better.

as someone that's had a mityvac for a long time, I don't use it unless I can't adapt my motive unit to the master cylinder.
reverse pressure bleeding works exceptionally well for clutches since they usually have such a near vertical line.

I plan on using this https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...kit-61912.html

Would that make a difference?

What scares me about these pressure bleeders is the horror stories I hear about it leaking, popping off, or popping off the hose going out from the master cylinder

[HawkeyeGeoff]

Yes. I've done it both ways. Both will work just fine.

[pjr710]

Originally Posted by HawkeyeGeoff

Yes. I've done it both ways. Both will work just fine.

Awesome sauce.

Do you remove the slave or just crack the bleeder valve? I’ve heard people say it’s hard to get to.

Also do you do anything fancy w the clutch pedal? Or just simple crack bolt and bleed until you see new fluid?

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by pjr710

I plan on using this https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...kit-61912.html

Would that make a difference?

What scares me about these pressure bleeders is the horror stories I hear about it leaking, popping off, or popping off the hose going out from the master cylinder

own it.

it's shit.
the only useful piece of that is the bottle that keeps the master full. Unless you have a giant compressor that can push a ton of air at greater than 80PSI for more than 5 minutes it's not gonna work well.


Buy a mityvac if you want a vacuum bleeding solution.

I've never popped any lines with a pressure bleeder, and if someone did it's because they're an idiot. You only need to pump it to 10 PSI to bleed the brakes.
But if you reverse pressure bleed it you'll not even see pressure on the reservoir.

Having owned the mityvac for more than 10 years (I actually wore one out and had to buy a replacement) once I owned a motive pressure bleeder I only use the mightyvac on stuff I can't make the motive unit fit.

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by pjr710

Awesome sauce.

Do you remove the slave or just crack the bleeder valve? I’ve heard people say it’s hard to get to.

Also do you do anything fancy w the clutch pedal? Or just simple crack bolt and bleed until you see new fluid?

you can't remove the slave, it has to be bled the same as the rest of the system.

if you want to vacuum bleed you remove the bleed nipple entirely so you can insert the tip of the bleeder and get an air tight seal. That way you can see if there's any air coming from the hydraulics.
If you bleed it through the nipple with vacuum you will pull air through the threads and never see clear fluid.

[pjr710]

Originally Posted by nsjames

you can't remove the slave, it has to be bled the same as the rest of the system.

if you want to vacuum bleed you remove the bleed nipple entirely so you can insert the tip of the bleeder and get an air tight seal. That way you can see if there's any air coming from the hydraulics.
If you bleed it through the nipple with vacuum you will pull air through the threads and never see clear fluid.

Alright maybe I’ll rethink the pressure bleeder bc i was having doubts about the air compressor requirements of that HF tool.

I’m still not 100% clear on the pressure bleeders. Some people seem to fill them up. Some people fill up the master cylinder then pressurize. Couldn’t it put air into the system?

[nsjames]

no, because it has a dip tube that only picks up fluid from the bottom.

go read the motive instructions, it will be clear how it works.
https://www.motiveproducts.com/pages...r-instructions

with a power bleeder I can flush all four corners of the car without refilling the bleeder, and it will take like 20 minutes.
Most of that time is just getting it setup.

[Efthreeoh]

Get and use a pressure bleeder; it is way easier than vacuum bleeding. I have a Motive. Ordered it with the BMW cap. It has never leaked. Fill it with DOT 4 brake fluid and bleed all 4 brakes and the clutch system. You never have to worry about running the master cylinder dry. The slave cylinder is a 6MM or 7MM bleeder valve (I can't exactly remember). A small wrench in that (correct) size works fine. My Craftsman wrench fits fine. It's kinda tight up against the tunnel wall. After use, you need to clean the Motive with denatured alcohol, so get a gallon of it before you use the tool.

The pressure bleeder sold by ECS looks like a decent tool as well.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by nsjames

you can't remove the slave, it has to be bled the same as the rest of the system.

if you want to vacuum bleed you remove the bleed nipple entirely so you can insert the tip of the bleeder and get an air tight seal. That way you can see if there's any air coming from the hydraulics.
If you bleed it through the nipple with vacuum you will pull air through the threads and never see clear fluid.

You can pressure bleed the slave cylinder disconnected from the trans. All you need to do is keep the piston captured with a C-clamp. It's two bolts and comes off in a minute. You can bleed it and reinstall it.

[pjr710]

Alright thanks so much for the help here. Ok gunna get the motive. It does make more sense the more i thought about it. Pushing the fluid out be vacuuming it is smarter.

I guess there are just a lot of idiots on Amazon that don’t know how to operate the tool.

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

You can pressure bleed the slave cylinder disconnected from the trans. All you need to do is keep the piston captured with a C-clamp. It's two bolts and comes off in a minute. You can bleed it and reinstall it.

I took that to mean he wanted to remove the slave completely and bleed the line.

but yeah, your assumption makes more sense.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by pjr710

Alright thanks so much for the help here. Ok gunna get the motive. It does make more sense the more i thought about it. Pushing the fluid out be vacuuming it is smarter.

I guess there are just a lot of idiots on Amazon that don’t know how to operate the tool.

The reason I have a Motive pressure bleeder is because of trying to bleed my E90's clutch; it was the first clutch that would not bleed by the pedal method. I also tried vacuum bleeding it; I have a vacuum oil extractor, and that didn't work. Presser bleeding is the only way to properly bleed the clutch IMO. My wife used to be my pedal pusher; though she is highly skilled at the position, she is now "retired".

[pjr710]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

The reason I have a Motive pressure bleeder is because of trying to bleed my E90's clutch; it was the first clutch that would not bleed by the pedal method. I also tried vacuum bleeding it; I have a vacuum oil extractor, and that didn't work. Presser bleeding is the only way to properly bleed the clutch IMO. My wife used to be my pedal pusher; though she is highly skilled at the position, she is now "retired".

Makes a lot of sense.

I now just need to figure out if i'm gunna put the brake fluid in the bleeder .. or just use it to pressurize the master cylinder.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by pjr710

Makes a lot of sense.

I now just need to figure out if i'm gunna put the brake fluid in the bleeder .. or just use it to pressurize the master cylinder.

If you get the Motive, just follow the directions, which is fit the cap to the brake fluid reservoir, test the pressure by adding a few pounds of pressure to assure the cap is fitted correctly and is not leaking (i.e. it should hold pressure). Then release the pressure by opening the cap on the pressure bleeder, fill the bleeder 1/2 full of brake fluid, and pressurize the brake system with 18 PSI of pressure. Bleed the brakes starting at the right rear, then left rear, right front, left front, then the clutch, using a catch-can and clear tubing attached to the bleeder valve of course. Bleeding dry is just stupid because you can run the system dry of brake fluid. The whole purpose of having the pressure vessel is to add brake fluid to the system as you bleed the old fluid out. Most people, including me, suck out as much of the old fluid in the reservoir first, then fill it with fresh fluid, then fill the pressure bleeder with the rest of the brake fluid. A 32 ounce can is all that is required. And as I said before, get some denatured alcohol for clean up of the pressure bleeder.

Use a good penetrating oil on the bleeder valves and let it soak for a few minutes (I do this first after the wheels are off). If this is the first time opening the valves, I recommend before you pressurize the system, to crack open the valves using a deep-well socket and a 1/4-drive ratchet (preferably a T-handle). Then close them, you just want to break the static friction of the threads.A frozen bleeder valve easily strips with an open-end wrench and can snap off with a box-end wrench. The best way to initially open a bleeder valve is to use a socket and T-handle so even force is applied to the threads.

And remember the bleeder valves just have to seat back into the caliper. They only need a few inch-pounds of torque. Cranking them down does not make them seal any better.

[pjr710]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

If you get the Motive, just follow the directions, which is fit the cap to the brake fluid reservoir, test the pressure by adding a few pounds of pressure to assure the cap is fitted correctly and is not leaking (i.e. it should hold pressure). Then release the pressure by opening the cap on the pressure bleeder, fill the bleeder 1/2 full of brake fluid, and pressurize the brake system with 18 PSI of pressure. Bleed the brakes starting at the right rear, then left rear, right front, left front, then the clutch, using a catch-can and clear tubing attached to the bleeder valve of course. Bleeding dry is just stupid because you can run the system dry of brake fluid. The whole purpose of having the pressure vessel is to add brake fluid to the system as you bleed the old fluid out. Most people, including me, suck out as much of the old fluid in the reservoir first, then fill it with fresh fluid, then fill the pressure bleeder with the rest of the brake fluid. A 32 ounce can is all that is required. And as I said before, get some denatured alcohol for clean up of the pressure bleeder.

Use a good penetrating oil on the bleeder valves and let it soak for a few minutes (I do this first after the wheels are off). If this is the first time opening the valves, I recommend before you pressurize the system, to crack open the valves using a deep-well socket and a 1/4-drive ratchet (preferably a T-handle). Then close them, you just want to break the static friction of the threads.A frozen bleeder valve easily strips with an open-end wrench and can snap off with a box-end wrench. The best way to initially open a bleeder valve is to use a socket and T-handle so even force is applied to the threads.

And remember the bleeder valves just have to seat back into the caliper. They only need a few inch-pounds of torque. Cranking them down does not make them seal any better.

great advice!

[PichaDis11]

Anyone else lose the gasket to their motive bleeder down the crevices of the master cylinder?

If not; do use caution.