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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Found a Bent rod, can I drop it out the bottom?



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      10-31-2018, 12:04 AM   #1
JonEQuest
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Found a Bent rod, can I drop it out the bottom?

I was in the process of changing rod bearings after dropping the oil pan to look for old trash and belt pieces. I found I have a bent rod arm. The cylinder wall looks OK and the cylinder can be manually pulled up and down as easily as the good one next to it. I feel I can just change this piston. Since I already have the bottom of the car and engine totally open it seems the best way to install another piston is to separate the bed plate from the block and drop the crank out. How easily can this be done with the engine in the car? I know that engine removal is normally the best way but I have removed everything that would be in my way underneath already so I can see all the bed plate bolts I would need to get to unless I am missing something?
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      10-31-2018, 08:21 AM   #2
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Nope sorry. At best the head has to come off and you can slide the piston up the top. With no wall damage you can reuse the pistons(and rings) and just swap that one rod.

But all that being said depending on mileage/condition, with the amount of work it is on these cars, you may as well swap/rebuild the motor
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      10-31-2018, 08:53 AM   #3
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You have to remove the head to get out the piston. Since labor is a big portion of the cost if there is any doubt I'd just rebuild the motor.
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      10-31-2018, 08:59 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boland01 View Post
You have to remove the head to get out the piston. Since labor is a big portion of the cost if there is any doubt I'd just rebuild the motor.
Ugh, I have 75,000 miles and just installed new lifters, valve cover gasket, water pump, etc. I don't have a lift or room in my garage to service an engine. Plus I was hoping to remove 50 easy to get to bolts instead of 300 with every gasket the engine has.
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      10-31-2018, 09:23 AM   #5
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boland01 View Post
You have to remove the head to get out the piston. Since labor is a big portion of the cost if there is any doubt I'd just rebuild the motor.
Ugh, I have 75,000 miles and just installed new lifters, valve cover gasket, water pump, etc. I don't have a lift or room in my garage to service an engine. Plus I was hoping to remove 50 easy to get to bolts instead of 300 with every gasket the engine has.
I know that there's a weight matching that is important, but apparently that just applies to the piston not the rod correct? if I get a used Rod off of eBay could I pull the pin and put it into this piston? there is some marring on the bottom of the piston where the a crank rubbed it a little. I don't think it took off enough material to really change the weight. I found little slivers of metal in the oil pan which can be accounted for by the missing material from the windage tray caused by the rod bolt rubbing the windage tray due to the different angle.
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      10-31-2018, 11:43 AM   #6
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Geezus, man, I feel bad for you.
What's the story on this car? I seem to recall multiple threads and posts of you asking about headlights, bearings, noises, etc. because it was an auction car or some such, but dayum, what horrible luck. Was this a hurricane car with a cylinder full of water that hydrolocked and bent the rod or what?
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      10-31-2018, 12:00 PM   #7
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Geezus, man, I feel bad for you.
What's the story on this car? I seem to recall multiple threads and posts of you asking about headlights, bearings, noises, etc. because it was an auction car or some such, but dayum, what horrible luck. Was this a hurricane car with a cylinder full of water that hydrolocked and bent the rod or what?
I am officially naming this car "Whack-a-Mole". I bought it "cheap" (LOL) from a salvage auction and it has had the most hidden unknown damage of any car I have ever owned. I have owned about 30 cars. If I take my worst 5 and combine things that I found broken, they still would not add up to this car. The problem is that I am "Balls Deep" in this car now with so much spent in parts. My only choice now is to just move forward and fix it.
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      10-31-2018, 01:56 PM   #8
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Depends on your goals if you want to rock stock or stage 1 o personally would try the new rod and bearing and let it go until she blows and then if it does happen drop in a new used or rebuilt block.
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      10-31-2018, 01:57 PM   #9
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But if your going to pull the head just might as well swap at that point
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      10-31-2018, 03:14 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Rob09msport View Post
But if your going to pull the head just might as well swap at that point
I have a feeling that the Piston is probably in pretty good shape. So theoretically I should just need the connecting rod which I believe isn't weight critical like the Pistons. of course if I pull the head I'll go ahead and change all the rings.

I also plan to tune things up a bit but I don't plan to go over 500hp or anything crazy either.

Last edited by JonEQuest; 10-31-2018 at 03:41 PM..
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      10-31-2018, 03:50 PM   #11
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What is the reason why you cannot pull it from the bottom? Clearance?

Just people saying you cant does no satisfy my curiosity.
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      10-31-2018, 04:01 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredcase View Post
What is the reason why you cannot pull it from the bottom? Clearance?

Just people saying you cant does no satisfy my curiosity.
first off you gotta pull the crank to even get it out. that means pulling down the transmission and all that stuff.

second there is the oil squirter to be removed(can be done after step one)

The main reason is installing. You cannot reinstall from the bottom. Sometimes its not machined fully all the way down so it bottoms out. But to put back in, the ring compressor needs a flush surface and clearance to mallet it in.

AND fyi pistons and rods are weighted separately and together for the rotating assembly. This matters more when running high RPM or much more past what the stock engine can handle. OEM stuff especially of this brand are pretty well closely factory balanced

Last edited by neilvan; 10-31-2018 at 04:06 PM..
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      10-31-2018, 04:04 PM   #13
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Yeah, I am seeing now that from the top is the only way to go. Plus there is no way to get a ring holder in there. There is no room on the sides.
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      10-31-2018, 11:28 PM   #14
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You should name hey lucky, lol.

Best bet is to remove and do a mild rebuild. You can do the gaskets, seals, etc. and check other weak areas.
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      11-01-2018, 10:03 AM   #15
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You should name hey lucky, lol.

Best bet is to remove and do a mild rebuild. You can do the gaskets, seals, etc. and check other weak areas.
I already decided to name this car "WHACK-A-MOLE" since that is what it feels like fixing problems.
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      11-03-2018, 09:09 AM   #16
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was probably a flood car. would explain the rod if a little water got ingested and any electrical issues as well
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      11-03-2018, 10:51 AM   #17
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was probably a flood car. would explain the rod if a little water got ingested and any electrical issues as well
Not a flood car. I ran a VIN report and know where it was wrecked and Insurance claims made. It did have a bad coil on that cylinder. Maybe fuel hydra locked it?
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      11-05-2018, 02:26 PM   #18
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My heart goes out to you, brother.

If you set up a GOFUNDME page, I'll donate $25. Well worth the multiple jaw drops and shocking pictures and information.
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      11-05-2018, 02:57 PM   #19
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My heart goes out to you, brother.

If you set up a GOFUNDME page, I'll donate $25. Well worth the multiple jaw drops and shocking pictures and information.
LOL
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      11-05-2018, 11:01 PM   #20
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How do you remove the head with nothing to hold the engine underneath. Answer: 2 Chainz just like the rapper.
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      11-06-2018, 08:22 AM   #21
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      11-06-2018, 08:54 AM   #22
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yikes
It's OK. I have another weak chain and questionable bolt on the other side as backup.
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