[TDF9]

Howdy.

Bought an inoperable 2006 325i six weeks ago - 200k, original clutch had just gone - with a goal to change it myself and get it back on the road.

It's taken much longer than I'd imagined (on jackstands in the driveway, lots of learning as I go). I'm finally now reinstalling the transmission, but can't get it to go up flush to the engine.

I have 3/4 to 1 inch between the bellhousing and the block, and try as I might, can't get it to go the last little bit.

I think it's close enough that the input shaft has settled into the clutch disk (the output shaft will only turn a little bit, which seems like further evidence the input shaft is into the clutch disk).

I'm converting to a single mass flywheel (Valeo conversation kit), which means the pilot bearing came preinstalled in the flywheel. But I'm wondering if it wasn't set in far enough?

Am I crazy to consider using the transmission bolts to close this final gap?

In any case, all ideas welcome. Winter is coming...

Thanks!

[Efthreeoh]

Just asking, but are you sure the clutch disk was centered before you released the pressure plate. What I did with my install was cut the heads off two of the old bellhousing bolts and used them as a guide. And one more dumb question, you did remove the flywheel lock?

[TDF9]

Thanks, Efthreeoh.

I used a clutch alignment tool, so hope it was centered.

But "release the pressure plate" doesn't make sense to me. Would that only apply to a self-adjusting clutch? I'm using a single mass flywheel and non-self adjusting clutch. Once I had the clutch on the alignment tool, I bolted up the pressure plate - so the clutch was under pressure as I torqued down the pressure plate. Does that make sense?

Flywheel is unlocked.

I did cut off the old aluminum bolts to use as guidepins - what a great idea that has been!

[Joebie]

I haven't done a clutch job on my BMW but I did do one on my old VW Golf and the transmission mated up flush with the engine no problem.

I wouldn't force it with the bolts, there's gotta be something wrong going on in there. Sometimes it's hard for the input shaft to slide in the splines of the clutch disk unless you have the transmission supported just right but I've gotta assume you've tried wiggling it and supporting it as best you could.

Could it be possible that you got the wrong model clutch set or something? It's hard to give any advice beyond that without actually being there.

Good luck!

[Bufalo]

Definitely don't try to use those stretch-to-yield aluminum bolts to pull the transmission into place. I just replaced the clutch on my 328i a few weeks ago with the same Valeo kit, and the transmission easily slid into place once everything was aligned. If yours isn't going, something's not quite right.

[Phyrexia]

Is the transmission in gear? Have you tried turning the output shaft to get the input shaft to turn and possibly mate up with the flywheel better?

I did my clutch a year ago (with a DMF and SAC) and it was pretty straight forward. I did cut my transmission reverse switch when it got stuck between the bell housing and the motor.

There is some cabling at the top of the trans, see if you can reach your hand up there and make sure nothing is interfering.

Another option that may be useful is to pull the intake manifold. This gives you better access to the starter and the bell housing (but from the front) and you might be able to see what your problem is.

Good luck!

[Bufalo]

Yes, if you haven't removed the intake manifold and the cowl/HVAC filter housing, do that! It gives you a lot of access to look at anything that might be hanging up. There are a good number of brackets that can get hung up in the way.

[TDF9]

Thanks for all the ideas, everyone.

Hadn't occurred to me to remove intake manifold (though sounds like that's a project unto itself).

My next move will be to try to feel the top of the bellhousing and see if anything's interfering, and if the gap at the top is the same as what I'm seeing at the bottom (should provide some clue about how if I need to jack up the transmission more).

Failing that, I'll pull the transmission down (again) and see if the throw-out bearing or something is a miss. And may measure depth of the pilot bearing, too.

Just have to wait for the weekend, and hope it's not too cold or rainy!

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by TDF9

Thanks, Efthreeoh.

I used a clutch alignment tool, so hope it was centered.

But "release the pressure plate" doesn't make sense to me. Would that only apply to a self-adjusting clutch? I'm using a single mass flywheel and non-self adjusting clutch. Once I had the clutch on the alignment tool, I bolted up the pressure plate - so the clutch was under pressure as I torqued down the pressure plate. Does that make sense?

Flywheel is unlocked.

I did cut off the old aluminum bolts to use as guidepins - what a great idea that has been!

So I can only speak to OEM LuK parts. The pressure plate comes with the finger springs locked in a released state so there is no pressure on the pressure plate/clutch disk as you bolt it onto the flywheel. You have to release the retaining spider plate once the pressure plated is bolted and torqued down to the flywheel. The spider retaining plate is turned by using a wrench then separates from the pressure plate springs(i.e. it doesn't remain on the pressure plate). If you didn't remove the retaining plate it could keep the trans from sliding forward.

[Bufalo]

Want to clarify that on the Valeo single-mass conversion kit which the OP is using, the clutch pressure plate is not self-adjusting, and does not need to be released the way the stock self-adjusting clutch does.

[nsjames]

pulling the intake is easy, compared to what you've already done.

get a heat gun and heat the hose connections a little before you try and manipulate them. It will greatly reduce the change of breakage.

dont pull it tight with the bolts. if it's hung on the clutch pieces you will generate enough force to destroy parts inside the bellhousing.

my guess is that you've not got the pressure plate/clutch disk assembly perfectly lined up with the crank.

[TDF9]

Turns out the shift support arm was wedged between the transmission and the tunnel, which was keeping me from getting the transmission level enough (I'm guessing for the input shaft to settle into the pilot bearing). In any case, once I figured that out and shoved the support bracket back out of the way, the transmission mated up perfectly.

Thanks again for all your ideas and help!

[Joebie]

Originally Posted by TDF9

Turns out the shift support arm was wedged between the transmission and the tunnel, which was keeping me from getting the transmission level enough (I'm guessing for the input shaft to settle into the pilot bearing). In any case, once I figured that out and shoved the support bracket back out of the way, the transmission mated up perfectly.

Thanks again for all your ideas and help!

Glad you got it figured out! Must have been quite the relief when she finally butted up together!

[juld0zer]

Helps to support the front half of the engine to reduce the forward droop once the gearbox is removed. This is especially important when working on jackstands

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by TDF9

Turns out the shift support arm was wedged between the transmission and the tunnel, which was keeping me from getting the transmission level enough (I'm guessing for the input shaft to settle into the pilot bearing). In any case, once I figured that out and shoved the support bracket back out of the way, the transmission mated up perfectly.

Thanks again for all your ideas and help!

Someone posted a detailed N52 clutch installation DIY in the DIY section. He (cough cough) mentioned in his procedure to wire the shifter support bracket out of the way - pg. 6 - 7 (cough cough)...

[nsjames]

lol.

and the HF transmission jack is worth it's weight. and since it's not hydraulic you can use the 20% off coupon. I bought one and it was like $75 after tax.

made dropping an FJ Cruiser trans/tcase a much more pleasant job because they weigh a gajillion pounds when mated together.

[850CSi]

Having this exact problem right now. I’m about 1cm away and can’t get it to wiggle in that final bit. Anyone have any ideas?

Would the friction plate being about 1-2mm off center potentially account for this? The clutch centering tool was kind of crummy and didn’t keep it perfectly centered.

[TDF9]

Originally Posted by 850CSi

Having this exact problem right now. I’m about 1cm away and can’t get it to wiggle in that final bit. Anyone have any ideas?

Would the friction plate being about 1-2mm off center potentially account for this? The clutch centering tool was kind of crummy and didn’t keep it perfectly centered.

Probably just saying something obvious, but try playing with the output shaft - both diagnostically to see if it'll spin freely (suggesting your input shaft has not settled into the clutch disk) and to help fix things by (perhaps) by wiggling your slightly off center clutch disk into place?

I'll also just say I was convinced my transmission was not being blocked - right until I found the shift support arm wedged above it. Might be worth double checking there's nothing that could be keeping you from getting the transmission completely level?

Good luck!

[850CSi]

Originally Posted by TDF9

Probably just saying something obvious, but try playing with the output shaft - both diagnostically to see if it'll spin freely (suggesting your input shaft has not settled into the clutch disk) and to help fix things by (perhaps) by wiggling your slightly off center clutch disk into place?

I'll also just say I was convinced my transmission was not being blocked - right until I found the shift support arm wedged above it. Might be worth double checking there's nothing that could be keeping you from getting the transmission completely level?

Good luck!

Thanks! I left my trans in neutral so I can’t tell much by spinning the output shaft. And I feel like it’s close enough that the input shaft must be at least partially into the clutch. Maybe not.

I’m pretty sure there’s nothing in the way. My shifter carrier is totally out of the car.

It’s good to know though that it’s not supposed to be that difficult to get it fully seated.