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      12-20-2018, 01:01 PM   #1
klungie
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drivetrain malfunction, cranks no starts

Hi all, newbie to BMW car and bimmerpost here

I just got drivetrain malfunction 3 days ago. Bought the car 3 weeks ago and I haven't got my plate yet and the car already breaks down, please help.

Basically in the morning, it started fine, used it to go to office like usual 25miles one way.
In the afternoon, planned to go home, the car started fine. Suddenly in the highway, DTMF message came up. Car started to shudder, lost power, I had to park on the side of the highway, then the car died. I tried to start it, no luck. It still cranks though.

I checked the battery, was 12V, so I replaced it, but didn't solve the issue, car still cannot start.
I looked up the history of carfax, it had 1 service for cleaning the spark plugs, so I thought the plugs might be bad, so I changed all 4, and still no start. I have ordered myCarly, hopefully it will help me diagnose the issue better.

I checked all the fuses in the trunk, right rear side, every fuse is good; the relay for CAS is also good.

My guess is
1. fuel pump control module (EKPS)? I do not hear any whirring sound from the electric fuel pump
2. ignition coil? but I never experienced any lost power or shuddering before
3. fuel injector?
4. fuel pump?

My car is 2013 X3 28i, Please help somebody, thanks.
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      12-20-2018, 01:16 PM   #2
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I would suggest fuel pump as well, but couldn't say if module or otherwise.
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      12-20-2018, 01:23 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWZ4 View Post
I would suggest fuel pump as well, but couldn't say if module or otherwise.
thanks for replying, any tips for easy checking whether it's EKPS or fuel pump that fails?
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      12-20-2018, 01:32 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klungie View Post
thanks for replying, any tips for easy checking whether it's EKPS or fuel pump that fails?
Cant be ignition coil or fuel injector. Do you have a scanner tool, check for any codes?
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      12-20-2018, 02:27 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x3sm View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by klungie View Post
thanks for replying, any tips for easy checking whether it's EKPS or fuel pump that fails?
Cant be ignition coil or fuel injector. Do you have a scanner tool, check for any codes?
I just ordered mycarly, will arrive today. I will post the error codes later on. Thanks!!!
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      12-20-2018, 03:35 PM   #6
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      12-20-2018, 03:40 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blaster400 View Post
Blaster400, do you happen to remember that fault codes you had?

My guess is it would be EKPS, too.
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      12-20-2018, 04:11 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x3sm View Post
Cant be ignition coil or fuel injector. Do you have a scanner tool, check for any codes?
this is what I got from myCarly

P0366
Camshaft position Sensor B - Circuit Range/ Performance (Bank 1)

P0341
Camshaft position Sensor A (Bank 1) - Circuit Range/ Performance

P1338
Camshaft position Sensor, Bank 1 Open Circuit/ Short to B+
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      12-20-2018, 04:30 PM   #9
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https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...units/HdIjQWZF
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      12-20-2018, 05:26 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riick View Post
Thanks Riick.

Now how to get the correct part number?
Should I just get it from BMW dealer?
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      12-20-2018, 07:33 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klungie View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Riick View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Riick View Post
Thanks Riick.

Now how to get the correct part number?
Should I just get it from BMW dealer?
https://www.getbmwparts.com/oem-part...w0LWdhcw%3D%3D
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      12-20-2018, 08:42 PM   #12
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Seems more like timing chain guides that broke to me. I would remove the valve cover and check the guides before spending money and time on a new crankshaft sensor.
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      12-20-2018, 09:20 PM   #13
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It could be any of these issues, but since you are new here you should at least be aware of the issue with 2013 4 cylinder engines. There are several threads on here. Basically the timing chain guides break apart and the engine is toast. Nobody knows what percentage are affected, but the number who have reported here is not small - 50 or more by now. If this is not your current problem, then great, but you should at least know about the issue.
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      12-20-2018, 09:45 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barbera335 View Post
Seems more like timing chain guides that broke to me. I would remove the valve cover and check the guides before spending money and time on a new crankshaft sensor.
I open the oil cap and try to move around the timing chain. It feels tight. Do you think it's a good check other than opening the valve cover?
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      12-20-2018, 09:47 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Opie55 View Post
It could be any of these issues, but since you are new here you should at least be aware of the issue with 2013 4 cylinder engines. There are several threads on here. Basically the timing chain guides break apart and the engine is toast. Nobody knows what percentage are affected, but the number who have reported here is not small - 50 or more by now. If this is not your current problem, then great, but you should at least know about the issue.
Yes, I am aware of it. When I bought the car I spent my time listening to the whistling sound when revving up the engine and I never heard one until my car stopped working.
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      12-21-2018, 06:49 AM   #16
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50 out of several million is not even 1%.
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      12-21-2018, 08:41 AM   #17
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That is correct math, but I don't know that there were "several million" 2013 28is made, and only a percentage of failures get reported on forums, so although the overall percentage may not be large, I think your math is likely wrong on both ends.
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      12-21-2018, 09:28 AM   #18
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The BMW X3 28i is not the only model BMW that received the N20 in 2013.

The Z4 sDrive28i, X1 x/sDrive28i, 328i, 428i, 528i, 328iGT, 228i, X4 xDrive20i all recieved the exact same N20B20 as the X3 28i. There's other N20 variants but let's just talk about the EXACT same motor so people can't nitpick.

In fact, let's get the real numbers because they are posted publicly. In 2013 BMW produced 157,303 X3's. That's 0.03%.

But, since the engine is shared across platforms, let's add them all up.

1,056,306 cars produced in 2013 that could be affected by the N20 timing chain.

So we've got about 50 reported ever? That's 0.004% cars affected or about 1 in 25,000.

So, to put that in perspective.... Owning a BMW X3 28i and getting a bad timing chain is equal to the same odds as getting murdered with a gun.
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      12-21-2018, 04:43 PM   #19
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your argument is flawed, of those 1,056,306, your assuming 50 is the total number.

The facts are:

What is common in all instances of failure is the N20/N26 engine pertaining to the timing chain / guide, and events leading up and during the breakdown are similar.

BMW has multiple revisions of those specified part. Now why would that be, if everything was working as designed ?

The courts have said BMW has a case to answer for. Lets see how it plays out.
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      12-22-2018, 12:50 AM   #20
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BMW extended the warranty. Why are you still complaining?
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      12-23-2018, 03:02 PM   #21
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I have 2 questions (silly one perhaps)
1. It seems like the timing chain still rotates when the car is cranked, does it mean that the timing chain guide is still in place or does it not mean anything? The way I test this is by marking using "green permanent marker" on the chain (from oil cap). After I cranked the car, that green mark is no longer there. So the timing chain must have moved when I cranked the car. I am just wondering if there is an easy way to check without opening the valve gasket cover.

2. When I turn on the car (just by pressing once on the on/off key without pressing brake pedal), my steering wheel cannot be moved at all. Is this normal? When can a steer be moved? Is it after ignition on or engine on?

Thanks for reply guys, any help is greatly appreaciated!!
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      12-23-2018, 07:14 PM   #22
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so this is the code from OBD

Quote:
P0366
Camshaft position Sensor B - Circuit Range/ Performance (Bank 1)

P0341
Camshaft position Sensor A (Bank 1) - Circuit Range/ Performance

P1338
Camshaft position Sensor, Bank 1 Open Circuit/ Short to B+
The following are some more codes

Code:
*** ENGINE
1C0102 - pressure too low
130F11 - exhaust camshaft, plausibility - pattern invalid
120408 - boost pressure control: shutdown due to reaction
130E11 - inlet camshaft sensor, plausibility - pattern invalid
1C0301 - engine oil pressure control valve, stuck in fully energized position
1C2002 - engine oil pump, pressure too low
130E20 - intake camshaft, angular displacement to the crank shaft out of tolerance
216104 - MSA, monitoring : start delay

*** CENTRAL GATEWAY
CD0487 - flexray startup failed
801C15 - faulty asleep at 30B
CD1400 - receive no errors memory lock
801C06 - SVT could not be created
801C20 - central error memory full

*** DSC
4809AB - global voltage supply - undervoltage externally

*** TRANSMISSION
421652 - electric transmission emergency release activated

*** JUNCTION BOX
030341 - switching center steering column, pitman indicator
030481 - steering wheel heating NTC

*** FUELL PUMP
CED400 - timeout CAN message delivery rate

*** INTEGRATED CHASSIS MODULE
48277E - LDM function HDC panel faulty
480112 - FDS normal deactivation handbags function/ driving dynamics switch
48279B - global power supply voltage external
It seems like I still have battery issue?
And I did change oil + filter 1 day before the issue started.
I put 5qt. Could that be the issue? I did check using the interface on the screen and it says MAX. Should I add 1 more quart or 1/2 quart?
Do you think the "lack" of oil triggered "low oil pressure" and messed up lots of sensors?

And based on this
Quote:
801C15 - faulty asleep at 30B
does it mean that my relay is broken? I did check the relay, it seems to work fine (at least the way I checked it)



Any advice is greatly appreciated! Thanks!!!
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