[geko29]

I'm at a crossroads where I'm deciding whether to keep the d or trade it. It's a 2011 with 96k miles, currently in need of a little over $4k in repairs/maintenance:

$1500 CBU cleaning (lowest I've found locally, dealer wants $3k+)
$650 front + rear brakes
$1250 suspension refresh (shocks/struts, front upper/lower control arms, sway bar end links, miscellaneous bits)
$150 EGR race pipe
$650 tune to eliminate CEL from above

The original long-term plan was to give this car to my son, who's currently 11.5. So in theory, the car would be ~13 years old with 155k miles when he's 16. Looking at it that way makes me wonder if it's still a good idea from a long-term maintenance perspective. It's been relatively reliable thus far, other than the crappy emissions equipment, only needing a glow plug heater module and SCR catalyst since the extended warranty expired a few years ago.

So what else should I expect might have to be done in the next 5-7 years?

[GLU_WEIN]

Originally Posted by geko29

I'm at a crossroads where I'm deciding whether to keep the d or trade it. It's a 2011 with 96k miles, currently in need of a little over $4k in repairs/maintenance:

$1500 CBU cleaning (lowest I've found locally, dealer wants $3k+)
$650 front + rear brakes
$1250 suspension refresh (shocks/struts, front upper/lower control arms, sway bar end links, miscellaneous bits)
$150 EGR race pipe
$650 tune to eliminate CEL from above

The original long-term plan was to give this car to my son, who's currently 11.5. So in theory, the car would be ~13 years old with 155k miles when he's 16. Looking at it that way makes me wonder if it's still a good idea from a long-term maintenance perspective. It's been relatively reliable thus far, other than the crappy emissions equipment, only needing a glow plug heater module and SCR catalyst since the extended warranty expired a few years ago.

So what else should I expect might have to be done in the next 5-7 years?

are you willing to travel couple hundred miles to get the services done for way cheaper?

Going to PM you.

[geko29]

Originally Posted by DieselDemonDM

are you willing to travel couple hundred miles to get the services done for way cheaper?

Might be, I'm always up for saving money. Should note that costs listed for the brakes, suspension and EGR race pipe are cost of parts only, with me doing the work. On my list, CBU cleaning would be by a shop, and the ECU tune by being shipped out. So that roughly $2150 is where potential savings would be.

Regardless of how that all shakes out--and I definitely appreciate the help!--I'm also looking to see what else I can reasonably expect over the next 5-7 years. Both of us love the car, but I want to make sure I'm not planning to give my kid a money pit.

[PerfectAce]

Are you doing any of the suspension/brake work yourself? If so, that $1250 + $650 for those two items seems a little high. To get factory performance level replacement of everything, it should be possible to get all your parts for $1200-1300.

[geko29]

Originally Posted by PerfectAce

Are you doing any of the suspension/brake work yourself? If so, that $1250 + $650 for those two items seems a little high. To get factory performance level replacement of everything, it should be possible to get all your parts for $1200-1300.

yes, I would be doing all of it. If I'm keeping the car, the front brakes would be HPS 5.0 pads, ECS rotors, and brass caliper bushings just like I have in the rear, plus a brake sensor. That comes to $536. On the rear I just need pads (and a sensor wire), and the HPS 5.0 run right around $100 if memory serves.

For the suspension, I'd be looking at the Koni Special Active shock kit since I LOVED the FSDs I put on my old E46. That runs around $550, plus another $140 for front + rear mounts. FCP Euro sells a front control arm kit with swaybar links and tierods for around $510, and then a couple odds and ends is how I get to the $1250 range for that. Could save about $80 by going Meyle vs. Lemforder, so we could call it $1150 if you like.

Clearly these are different choices than I'd make if I had to do the maintenance and then get rid of the car. But if I'm looking at keeping long term, I'd want better-quality stuff.

[PerfectAce]

Originally Posted by geko29

Clearly these are different choices than I'd make if I had to do the maintenance and then get rid of the car. But if I'm looking at keeping long term, I'd want better-quality stuff.

Makes sense. You said "refresh" in your initial post and I figured that to mean OE-level replacement.

As far as other major maintenance items you're likely to need:

Transmission fluid/filter service? At close to 100k miles, you're close to the recommended service interval...if you haven't done it already.

And whether you've replaced it or not, you're gonna need another harmonic balancer pulley in the next 5-7 years (assuming you aren't running a fluidamper.)

[Nadir Point]

335D is an excellent candidate for long-term ownership - "if" and ONLY if you do the deletes. I'd say a well-maintained, deleted 335D would outlast just about anything else out there in it's class, and probably quite a few other classes as well. Simply in terms of engine longevity - that's what diesels are known for, generally speaking.

[apexit4]

I understand that all the items you listed are required at this moment to have the car in good running shape. I'd like to offer you a slightly different perspective on the situation to help make a decision. The brakes and suspension I'd file under maintenance costs, which are costs youd still encounter down the line with another vehicle. By that premise, you are deferring those maintenance costs into the future with another vehicle while adding unnecessary costs like taxes, registration, etc if you were to purchase something else.

The remaining two items (CBU cleaning and tune) are one time costs that shouldnt be required in the future if done properly. So taking all that into account, the question for me would be whether I want to spend around $2150 to keep the 335D on the road. I think you'd find most, if not all, members on the forum that would agree thats a worthwhile investment.

Take all that with a grain of salt though. I spent $5k all-in for an engine swap to keep mine on the road so I might be a bit biased with an opinion on what you should do

[335dlci]

Where are you from op?

[geko29]

Originally Posted by apexit4

I understand that all the items you listed are required at this moment to have the car in good running shape. I'd like to offer you a slightly different perspective on the situation to help make a decision. The brakes and suspension I'd file under maintenance costs, which are costs youd still encounter down the line with another vehicle. By that premise, you are deferring those maintenance costs into the future with another vehicle while adding unnecessary costs like taxes, registration, etc if you were to purchase something else.

I'm definitely looking at those items as maintenance. It just happened that major maintenance which I expected and planned for happen to come along at around the same time the failed SCR cat threatened to strand me and the CBU cleaning is necessary (and more expensive than expected). That's why I lump them together as a total. But agreed about all the other costs associated with buying new.

Originally Posted by apexit4

The remaining two items (CBU cleaning and tune) are one time costs that shouldnt be required in the future if done properly. So taking all that into account, the question for me would be whether I want to spend around $2150 to keep the 335D on the road. I think you'd find most, if not all, members on the forum that would agree thats a worthwhile investment.

Definitely the way I am (and have been) leaning. Just wanted to find out what other surprises I could reasonably expect after I decide to pony up for the repairs. Trans fluid is not a big deal, sounds like a harmonic balancer will be in the cards. Looks like parts are around $420 for a factory equivalent (with belts and pulleys), or $500 for a Fluidampr. Most likely would have my indy install, so figure another $150 for that. Also not the end of the world.

Originally Posted by 335dlci

Where are you from op?

Suburbs of Chicago

[apexit4]

Originally Posted by geko29

I'm definitely looking at those items as maintenance. It just happened that major maintenance which I expected and planned for happen to come along at around the same time the failed SCR cat threatened to strand me and the CBU cleaning is necessary (and more expensive than expected). That's why I lump them together as a total. But agreed about all the other costs associated with buying new.



Definitely the way I am (and have been) leaning. Just wanted to find out what other surprises I could reasonably expect after I decide to pony up for the repairs. Trans fluid is not a big deal, sounds like a harmonic balancer will be in the cards. Looks like parts are around $420 for a factory equivalent (with belts and pulleys), or $500 for a Fluidampr. Most likely would have my indy install, so figure another $150 for that. Also not the end of the world.



Suburbs of Chicago

If you're curious about other potential issues (non-diesel issues at least), I'd suggest taking a look at the general E9X sub-forum. It's much more active than this one and could give you an idea on some of the issues others are experiencing (all of the issues there wont apply, though).

[335dlci]

I could help you but Denver is too far plus there are other shops on the way.

[DozerDan82]

General maintanecne, but I would factor in for wheel bearings.

They rears are a PITA to do and a bit pricey for what they are, fronts are easy (and cheap)

I just did mine at 155k ish. Rear was starting to make some noise. No play but noise went away after I did it...

[geko29]

Thanks for the heads up. Never done wheel bearings myself, but have had them done previously on other (non-BMW) cars. Having taken my E46 apart, I can imagine why the rears would be a pain. I would probably leave that job to my local indy.

[DozerDan82]

Originally Posted by geko29

Thanks for the heads up. Never done wheel bearings myself, but have had them done previously on other (non-BMW) cars. Having taken my E46 apart, I can imagine why the rears would be a pain. I would probably leave that job to my local indy.

Fronts are some bolts, no big deal, like 20 min a side easy.

Rears are a stupid design, to do it 'right' requires special tools. You can DIY with a good press and some creativity. However if you do it or have an indy do it make SURE they re install the right way. there is no just pressing it out and flipping it once it is installed backwards.

[geko29]

Originally Posted by DozerDan82

However if you do it or have an indy do it make SURE they re install the right way. there is no just pressing it out and flipping it once it is installed backwards.

I think he'll do alright. He's a former BMW Master Mechanic who has had his own shop for quite a while, works almost exclusively on BMWs, daily drives an E39 M5 and races both an E36 and E90 that he built from the frame up.

[geko29]

Thanks for the help all! I've decided to keep the car and do the work. So this morning I ordered my front brakes:

ECS Geomet Slotted/Drilled rotors
Hawk HPS 5.0 pads
sensor cable
stainless rotor screws
brass caliper guide bushings

This is the exact same setup that I have in the rear, which I've been happy with; and very similar to what I ran for years on my former E46. Total cost was $544.

I also made the appointment to have the CBU cleaned later next month while I'm off. They're also going to quote me a cost for coding out the EGR. Hopefully they can do it cheaper (and easier) than shipping my ECU out to DUDMD.

I'll deal with the suspension bits a little later on, and the tuning as well if the local shop can't do it (or can't do it cheaply).

[geko29]

Brakes are in, and the shimmy has stopped. Between that and the balljoints and bushings looking ok physically while I was under there, I think I can put off most of the suspension work for a while. Still doing the shocks/struts, since the front struts are leaking.

[robnitro]

Btw, you don't need the race pipe... In some places a visual inspection is done and in that case just get the egr coolant bypass caps from fixmyvw.com instead. Even with the race pipe you need those Cato's to bypass the egr cooler coolant circuit.
Egr tuned out keeps the egr valve closed and if you want you can put a block plate between the exhaust header and the pipe that goes to egr cooler.

[geko29]

You're talking about these? https://www.tunemyeuro.com/bmw-335d-...ock-off-plate/

Not only do we not have visual inspections in IL (for any car), diesel passenger cars are permanently exempt. So I never have to get tested, period.

I was looking at this race pipe: https://www.tunemyeuro.com/eco-bille...5d-and-x5-35d/ to allow me to get rid of the EGR cooler completely. Would have thought that was a better solution than the block-off.

[RED-d]

If you are doing the trans service, you should also do the mechatronic sleeves and possibly the solenoids.

[apexit4]

Originally Posted by geko29

You're talking about these? https://www.tunemyeuro.com/bmw-335d-...ock-off-plate/

Not only do we not have visual inspections in IL (for any car), diesel passenger cars are permanently exempt. So I never have to get tested, period.

I was looking at this race pipe: https://www.tunemyeuro.com/eco-bille...5d-and-x5-35d/ to allow me to get rid of the EGR cooler completely. Would have thought that was a better solution than the block-off.

That race pipe is indeed a better solution. Although unlikely, the EGR cooler has the possibility of cracking and leaking some coolant into the intake manifold. Removing it completely eliminates that risk (and results in more space for future reapirs/mods/etc).