[MrSweet1991]

Hi all,

Got the rear wheel knuckle/hub off and realoem has the part number 33326774808 but I'm wondering, is there actually any difference in the hubs? Everyone I look at "look" like the mounting points are the same but the part numbers are different?

[criscarp]

No, this is off a 2014 5 series

[MrSweet1991]

Originally Posted by criscarp

No, this is off a 2014 5 series

Sorry, I should have been more specific in the description but I was meant to say as in 320D, 325D. I spoke to a BMWSpecialist and it turns out even a 320D is different. The only thing I could assume is, despite all the mounting points being in the same place, maybe there are slight differences in the angle that very slightly alter camber/toe because they look pretty much identical.

Anyway, managed to source a 330D pre-LCI being broke and have one of them coming Tuesday/Wednesday then it's off to chemix to see if the new arms and hub have resolved the bend.. if it's not I'll be completely baffled as the arms which I laid side by side to another set looked absolutely perfect, even that thin sheet trailing arm was perfectly straight so I just cant imagine those arms surviving a knock but the subframe giving out. Fingers crossed!

[criscarp]

No same part as my E91 320d 2006. The Xdrive and M3 are different. E8x +E9x as realoem.

[criscarp]

What is the problem with your car, I think I missed something, what bend? Do you have a problem with your camber or toe?

The cast wheel hub carrier is not going to bend or change with impact? More likely to shatter.

The trailing arm is a ball joint so not relevant to angle, the other connection is a rubber bush and would just wear out quicker if fitted at a stressful angle. The connecting rods remaining also have ball joints fitted in them.

[MrSweet1991]

Originally Posted by criscarp

What is the problem with your car, I think I missed something, what bend? Do you have a problem with your camber or toe?

The cast wheel hub carrier is not going to bend or change with impact? More likely to shatter.

The trailing arm is a ball joint so not relevant to angle, the other connection is a rubber bush and would just wear out quicker if fitted at a stressful angle. The connecting rods remaining also have ball joints fitted in them.

Hi mate,

So a while back before the car went off the road I knocked it into a kerb when it was icy as can be seen here:

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1449122

The rear arms have no ball joints, theres a top control arm, camber arm, trailing arm, toe arm and a wishbone I believe. Took it to chemix after adjusting the toe and camber myself just so it would drive relatively straight and the toe was already at max and still way out. Something is bent, so all the arms come off and had them side to side, looking for twists at different angles but nothing! Holes line up fine on both ends, so of course you move onto the other two potentials, the hub and subframe. Took the hub off as can be seen in first pic but with the angles of those mounting points it could be off a few degrees and I'd never know. It's weird though, with the catastrophic toe and camber of the original impact youd expect to look under and go "ahh there we go" yet even at chemix there was nothing that jumped out, arms look good, no stress Mark's..

And your right with the trailing arm but what people say is, if you have a knock then out of all the arms you're more than likely going to see the trailing arm buckle under any pressure as it's the least strongest.. having had it out the car I can see why, theres no weight or strength at all.. funny thing is though its perfectly straight against the other one I purchased.

[criscarp]

Originally Posted by MrSweet1991

Hi mate,

So a while back before the car went off the road I knocked it into a kerb when it was icy as can be seen here:

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1449122

The rear arms have no ball joints, theres a top control arm, camber arm, trailing arm, toe arm and a wishbone I believe. Took it to chemix after adjusting the toe and camber myself just so it would drive relatively straight and the toe was already at max and still way out. Something is bent, so all the arms come off and had them side to side, looking for twists at different angles but nothing! Holes line up fine on both ends, so of course you move onto the other two potentials, the hub and subframe. Took the hub off as can be seen in first pic but with the angles of those mounting points it could be off a few degrees and I'd never know. It's weird though, with the catastrophic toe and camber of the original impact youd expect to look under and go "ahh there we go" yet even at chemix there was nothing that jumped out, arms look good, no stress Mark's..

And your right with the trailing arm but what people say is, if you have a knock then out of all the arms you're more than likely going to see the trailing arm buckle under any pressure as it's the least strongest.. having had it out the car I can see why, theres no weight or strength at all.. funny thing is though its perfectly straight against the other one I purchased.

I see, thats not good at all. Lets hope it is the wheel carrier then.

[criscarp]

Originally Posted by MrSweet1991

Hi mate,

So a while back before the car went off the road I knocked it into a kerb when it was icy as can be seen here:

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1449122

The rear arms have no ball joints, theres a top control arm, camber arm, trailing arm, toe arm and a wishbone I believe. Took it to chemix after adjusting the toe and camber myself just so it would drive relatively straight and the toe was already at max and still way out. Something is bent, so all the arms come off and had them side to side, looking for twists at different angles but nothing! Holes line up fine on both ends, so of course you move onto the other two potentials, the hub and subframe. Took the hub off as can be seen in first pic but with the angles of those mounting points it could be off a few degrees and I'd never know. It's weird though, with the catastrophic toe and camber of the original impact youd expect to look under and go "ahh there we go" yet even at chemix there was nothing that jumped out, arms look good, no stress Mark's..

And your right with the trailing arm but what people say is, if you have a knock then out of all the arms you're more than likely going to see the trailing arm buckle under any pressure as it's the least strongest.. having had it out the car I can see why, theres no weight or strength at all.. funny thing is though its perfectly straight against the other one I purchased.

Hi fella, did the replacement wheel carrier solve the problem? And this may be of interest to you. https://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum...nment-t567569/

[MrSweet1991]

Originally Posted by criscarp

Hi fella, did the replacement wheel carrier solve the problem? And this may be of interest to you. https://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum...nment-t567569/

You know, I looked on that and then stumbled across another thread about how common is it for a rear subframe to "shift" and I didn't know that was even a thing, I and even the chemix guy always looked for stress Mark's, bends but never any signs of shifting.

It then got me thinking, where did I put the last 4 wheel alignment paper before the knock because I was fairly sure the rear right (opposite side to knock) was fine camber and toe wise, but on the most recent alignment both the back wheels where out.

So, I took all the stuff put my cupboard and found it! And damn, if I'm not seeing this wrong it seems to me that rear right wheel (the didn't have a knock) just so happened to go from perfectly fine to way out 4000 miles and a knock later, so coincidental or has the knock fluffed both wheels up which of course are connected by the rear subframe. I'm not sure what to think yet as I don't understand the alignments great, the chemix chap went into some real technical details on geometry and what not but here's the before and after report

[criscarp]

Were you lying down when you took those pics.lol

[MrSweet1991]

Originally Posted by criscarp

Were you lying down when you took those pics.lol

Before Hitting Kerb



After Hitting Kurb + 4000 miles



These might be easier

[criscarp]

2013 ? Is that the day you had the alignment checked with those 10 hippos in your car? Seriously?

No disrespect but did you pay to have your car aligned in 2013 + 2017, its worse after they adjusted it.

Are these values when the car is unloaded or when weighted as per bmw alignment procedure?

So did changing the wheel carrier fix the problem?

[MrSweet1991]

Originally Posted by criscarp

2013 ? Is that the day you had the alignment checked with those 10 hippos in your car? Seriously?

No disrespect but did you pay to have your car aligned in 2013 + 2017, its worse after they adjusted it.

Are these values when the car is unloaded or when weighted as per bmw alignment procedure?

So did changing the wheel carrier fix the problem?

Before hitting Kurb 19-08-17, driven until January 2018 since then it was sorn for 15 months, basically till now. The first alignment involved snapping the tie rod/track rod nut so only the rear was aligned and got put all in green. Fast forward to present, the other one was done a few days ago, I think you're looking at the time it was taken rather than the date.

The hub will arrive tomorrow in the post so I'll be comparing. If I'm not mistaken, he said one side could affect the other so theres a possibility of fixing the nearside which may then bring it into the green.. but as I say it can get very technical so I wasnt too sure on it.

[criscarp]

Why are you running such a big camber on the rear? How much are you paying to have your car checked and not aligned correctly?

[MrSweet1991]

Originally Posted by criscarp

Why are you running such a big camber on the rear? How much are you paying to have your car checked and not aligned correctly?

Which one are we referring to at the moment? So back in 2017 they aligned the rear so it all went in green but as they moved to the front the bolt snapped so that left the rear tracked and the front to be tracked once I replaced the tie rod/track rod end (cost around £25) but the car went off the road so it never did have another alignment until a few days ago.

So on the next alignment it was seen that the rear had no chance of alignment as the toe was at max and still out, so he tried his best to make it more driveable and charged nothing. At this moment in time, the 2019 alignment has had no changes made, that is my reference point before any arms or hub has been changed. The 2019 alignment wasnt really an alignemnt so to speak, it was a check how the knock affected the car and that of course was the result and cost nothing.

[criscarp]

Your 2017 data for toe is in mm not in deg for some reason.(I am not going to convert it) Also the spec is incorrect for your vehicle. eg, Max fully laden camber for the rear is 1.75. .. its showing 2.07 as being in the green.
You can check your own camber with an I-phone app or angle gauge on level ground. I am not sure why all your print outs are so bad.

[criscarp]

The spec for the 2019 figures also looks incorrect. I am probably wrong but they look like a load of rubbish.

Your front near side camber has also jumped out massively like the rear has.

I have a 320d so maybe my M-sport setting are different.

[MrSweet1991]

Originally Posted by criscarp

The spec for the 2019 figures also looks incorrect. I am probably wrong but they look like a load of rubbish.

Your front near side camber has also jumped out massively like the rear has.

I have a 320d so maybe my M-sport setting are different.

It's a little nerve racking I know that much Haha, but one thing I know about the front which may be why it's a bit over the place is I replaced the tie rod/track rods whereas the 2017 had the originals with the broken bolt... it's a right mess I can only change the hub and arms tomorrow and then if theres hope for bringing the toe in I'll actually get an alignment carried out but a lot could happen yet:/

[criscarp]

I thought the camber should be adjusted into spec first, which may bring the toe into spec?

Try this spec- https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...rement/6GwCa3v

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...rement/6Bz1IzJ

[MrSweet1991]

Originally Posted by criscarp

I thought the camber should be adjusted into spec first, which may bring the toe into spec?

Try this spec- https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...rement/6GwCa3v

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...rement/6Bz1IzJ

I believe he did say something like that so he adjusted the camber arm a little and it also adjusted the toe slightly but even with toe at max and adjustment on camber that toe was the best case scenario.

The hub turned up today, still has the driveshaft on which is good and bad.. my drive shaft is still attached and sanded down and painted the cv joint ready for the new reluctor ring, this cv joint has either a seriously rusty ring or snapped reluctor ring like mine.. getting that axle nut off will be a challenge with the driveshaft being off the car.

I've tried using a spirit level on the mounting points for the arms but it really is tricky as they aren't really flat spots so any slight margin of error I do see could be human error.

I think my best bet is to hurry up and put it all back together and if jts made 0 difference it looks like the subframe is coming off, with the thread you sent which lead me to another one somebody said they removed the rear subframe bolts and found some volts bent so that may be a quick way for me to see for any impact damage...

[criscarp]

Originally Posted by MrSweet1991

I believe he did say something like that so he adjusted the camber arm a little and it also adjusted the toe slightly but even with toe at max and adjustment on camber that toe was the best case scenario.

The hub turned up today, still has the driveshaft on which is good and bad.. my drive shaft is still attached and sanded down and painted the cv joint ready for the new reluctor ring, this cv joint has either a seriously rusty ring or snapped reluctor ring like mine.. getting that axle nut off will be a challenge with the driveshaft being off the car.

I've tried using a spirit level on the mounting points for the arms but it really is tricky as they aren't really flat spots so any slight margin of error I do see could be human error.

I think my best bet is to hurry up and put it all back together and if jts made 0 difference it looks like the subframe is coming off, with the thread you sent which lead me to another one somebody said they removed the rear subframe bolts and found some volts bent so that may be a quick way for me to see for any impact damage...

I hope the replacement hub sorts your problem but I think It will make zero difference. My 2006 E91 320d does not have reluctor rings, on mine there is a magnet in the wheel hub bearing and a different type of wheel speed sensor. There are two types.

Not sure if you looked at the documents in tis I linked. You might end up go around in circles. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...g-measurement/

Ie the front near side, changing the inner and outer track control parts will not affect the camber. There is no adjustment for camber and shouldn't be out of spec for standard settings if your bushes are in good condition.

Rear values you have posted are meaning less and way out both sides. I dont think sliding at 2mph into a curb would give an end result of the figures in your last alignment. As you said the garage just changed everything best for you. If they had adjusted the toe and camber to the middle setting and you had those figures they might indicate what the issue might be.

[MrSweet1991]

Originally Posted by criscarp

I hope the replacement hub sorts your problem but I think It will make zero difference. My 2006 E91 320d does not have reluctor rings, on mine there is a magnet in the wheel hub bearing and a different type of wheel speed sensor. There are two types.

Not sure if you looked at the documents in tis I linked. You might end up go around in circles. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...g-measurement/

Ie the front near side, changing the inner and outer track control parts will not affect the camber. There is no adjustment for camber and shouldn't be out of spec for standard settings if your bushes are in good condition.

Rear values you have posted are meaning less and way out both sides. I dont think sliding at 2mph into a curb would give an end result of the figures in your last alignment. As you said the garage just changed everything best for you. If they had adjusted the toe and camber to the middle setting and you had those figures they might indicate what the issue might be.

Hi Chris, thanks for all the info! I did actually have a look at the newtis documentation but at first glance I didn't really understand it too much so I thought I'll come back to it later. And the hub is an absolute nightmare! I receive a big ass parcel and turns out they left the driveshaft on, at first I thought "That's nice of them I suppose, good for spares" but then realised the damn axle nut has been destroyed! And of course, having the driveshaft not mounted to the diff seriously makes things 10 times harder as the driveshaft spins, so I contacted them as they're refunding me and letting me dispose of the hub and shaft but it's not easy to find a 330D hub so I've tried removing it but everything is against me at the moment. I've considered removing the driveshaft from my diff but its surprising how little space there is to remove the e-torx bolts even with every arm removed and I don't want to shear one off.. I was hoping to have it finished today so I could go to Chemix get the check and either walk happy or order the rear subframe but I've made no progress :/