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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Cosmetic and Lighting Modifications (exterior/interior) > Angel Eye Retrofit Help



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      05-17-2019, 10:10 AM   #1
Dohc120
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Angel Eye Retrofit Help (SOLVED)

2011 E90 LCI AHL - My headlights are almost complete, but I'm doing some testing before I seal them up. I wired them into a fused cigarette lighter adapter and they light up super bright. My problem now is once I hook them up the correct way(wired directly into the factory h8 plug), they're not lighting up. Well they do for a second and then shut off. I did test the voltage and it's reading 4v at the pin and 3.7 after the little black control box for the halos. Obviously it needs more than that. I'm wondering if my car is cutting the voltage down because it's seeing an error, or if that is the the normal voltage and I need to code a higher voltage to them, or there is some other problem. I've searched this and many other forums as well as google, and I can't find any voltage numbers for the halos or much other info for that matter.
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      05-17-2019, 11:20 AM   #2
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Need to code voltage for constant 12V. You can use Bimmergeeks Protool or NCS Expert, whichever one you have access to. Protool is the simplest to use however.
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      05-17-2019, 05:50 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by n2siast View Post
Need to code voltage for constant 12V. You can use Bimmergeeks Protool or NCS Expert, whichever one you have access to. Protool is the simplest to use however.
Thanks for the reply. Does 4v to the stock h8 bulbs sound normal?
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      05-18-2019, 05:07 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dohc120 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by n2siast View Post
Need to code voltage for constant 12V. You can use Bimmergeeks Protool or NCS Expert, whichever one you have access to. Protool is the simplest to use however.
Thanks for the reply. Does 4v to the stock h8 bulbs sound normal?
For the Stock Angel Eyes, BMW uses a PWM.. Which is pulse width modulation.. Where the voltages are regulated between 5v and 12v, depending on how you're using your lights. So , it is possible to see 4v under certain conditions.
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      05-26-2019, 04:50 AM   #5
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Solved

So I finally got around to coding the voltage. It's actually pretty easy once you have the programs installed. I upped the voltage and the angel eyes turned right on! Unfortunately they were flashing like a strobe light at an EDM show. I searched the internet up and down with zero help, but laying in bed I had an epiphany so at 2:30am I got out of bed and took my laptop down to my car. I wanted to post my solution just in case somebody is having the same problem. Hopefully I can save somebody some time and frustration. I have the frm3_E89.C32 module in my 2011 e90, so it may be different for earlier models. Listed below is what I changed. Btw, halos/angel eyes are called "standing lights" (SL) on this model 🤷🏻*♂️ I tried manually setting the voltage to 12.7, 11.94, and 11.2, but the LEDs strobed continuously. I noticed that if I left the car engine off with the lights on, eventually they would stay steady on, so I figured the voltage was too high. Another clue was when the lights would stay on constantly and I hooked the battery charger up, they started to strobe again; meaning the higher the voltage, the more they flickered. Dropping the voltage was the opposite of what I initially thought made sense. Well now they work beautifully. I'm wondering if this would work instead of buying ballasts/resistors. Anyway, feel free to ask questions. Hope this helps.


PWN_SL_1_FKT_SL_TFL to "value 09" (which is 100%).

WARMUE_SL_1_M1_14_M2_41 to "not active"

WARMUE_SL_2_M1_16_M1_18 to "not active"

KALTUE_SL_2_M1_16_M1_18 to "not active"

KALTUE_SL_1_M1_14_M2_41 to "not active"
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      08-26-2021, 07:51 PM   #6
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I know it's been a while since I posted an update, but I wanted to make sure I share my knowledge with anybody that is facing the same issues. all of the information in my last post is correct, but you can bypass all of those steps if you go into your idrive and disable your driving lights. that simple.
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      08-27-2021, 04:09 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dohc120 View Post
I know it's been a while since I posted an update, but I wanted to make sure I share my knowledge with anybody that is facing the same issues. all of the information in my last post is correct, but you can bypass all of those steps if you go into your idrive and disable your driving lights. that simple.
Just seen this, seems odd as the kit I bought when I done mine a couple years back, when connected to the h8 bulb they were dim and would flicker.

So I ran a wire going straight to the 12v connection you would jump start from and a signal wire into the ecu and lit up on a direct 12v with no flickering ?
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      05-31-2024, 02:21 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dohc120 View Post
So I finally got around to coding the voltage. It's actually pretty easy once you have the programs installed. I upped the voltage and the angel eyes turned right on! Unfortunately they were flashing like a strobe light at an EDM show. I searched the internet up and down with zero help, but laying in bed I had an epiphany so at 2:30am I got out of bed and took my laptop down to my car. I wanted to post my solution just in case somebody is having the same problem. Hopefully I can save somebody some time and frustration. I have the frm3_E89.C32 module in my 2011 e90, so it may be different for earlier models. Listed below is what I changed. Btw, halos/angel eyes are called "standing lights" (SL) on this model 🤷🏻*♂️ I tried manually setting the voltage to 12.7, 11.94, and 11.2, but the LEDs strobed continuously. I noticed that if I left the car engine off with the lights on, eventually they would stay steady on, so I figured the voltage was too high. Another clue was when the lights would stay on constantly and I hooked the battery charger up, they started to strobe again; meaning the higher the voltage, the more they flickered. Dropping the voltage was the opposite of what I initially thought made sense. Well now they work beautifully. I'm wondering if this would work instead of buying ballasts/resistors. Anyway, feel free to ask questions. Hope this helps.


PWN_SL_1_FKT_SL_TFL to "value 09" (which is 100%).

WARMUE_SL_1_M1_14_M2_41 to "not active"

WARMUE_SL_2_M1_16_M1_18 to "not active"

KALTUE_SL_2_M1_16_M1_18 to "not active"

KALTUE_SL_1_M1_14_M2_41 to "not active"
Thanks man! I had to register to this forum just to thank u!
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