[BMWsandDobermansGirl]

2007 325xi automatic

First I was driving on the highway and got the 4x4, AWD, DSC, ABS, EBV symbols and cruise control wasn't working either. The gears shift fine, on time and no shutters taking off. I had a break sensor triggered before, that brake light went away when those symbols came out. There was a slight noise when driving coming from the back tire, I think because those brakes might have needed changing. I was able to drive home that day. *The lights don't show up until and only when I start driving.*

Next days; Drove it for a bit like that but then when I decided to take it to the mechanic the car stopped in the middle of the road in front of my house as if something got stuck and wouldn't let it move forward anymore accompanied by a very loud squealing noise from under the car which stopped when the car stopped moving. Had it towed and at the garage they told me it started driving again giving those symbols. That's when they ignored me for a week, told me it was a transfer case but gave me no pricing at all. They almost didn't want to do anything so I just drove it home and they were happy.

I had to meet my brother's family at Disney for 10 days but when I got back...;the unexplainable symptoms now..
No more warning lights! Dash is clear! Even when I try driving it.

All gears shift in and out of smoothly with no delay or noise. Engine is clean. The car goes in reverse but when I put it in D or M1, it starts to roll but then stops as if something stuck stopping it and starts to roll again a bit but stops again. There is a squealing noise that accompanies it when it stops.

Again no lights are turning on anymore! The dash is clear no engine light.. No 4x4, brake light, nothing.
Car goes reverse but not drive. Moves a bit then stops as if something is stuck inside it stopping it on one side of the spin. (If that makes sense)

Remember this happened but then started driving again and now it looks like it's stuck for good. I'm waiting on a obd2 cable that should arrive on Monday. Hopefully I can pull out some codes from the history.

Can anyone say what this could be? There are no oil leaks under the car from what I can see. Transfer case and transmission oil were changed 3 years ago. I just had an engine oil change. The car is 240k kms but very clean engine, oil change every 5k max since 190k kms.

Also if it's the transfer case, if I unplug it, would the car drive again? I would be grateful for any help or advice. If you had issues with a transfer case can you tell me about your symptoms and if they were similar or not? What sucks is that there are no lights on the dash anymore.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by BMWsandDobermansGirl

2007 325xi automatic...Had it towed and at the garage they told me it started driving again giving those symbols. That's when they ignored me for a week, told me it was a transfer case but gave me no pricing at all. They almost didn't want to do anything so I just drove it home and they were happy...[away] for 10 days but when I got back...;the unexplainable symptoms now.. No more warning lights! Dash is clear! Even when I try driving it.
All gears shift in and out of smoothly with no delay or noise. Engine is clean. The car goes in reverse but when I put it in D or M1, it starts to roll but then stops as if something stuck stopping it and starts to roll again a bit but stops again. There is a squealing noise that accompanies it when it stops.
I'm waiting on a obd2 cable that should arrive on Monday. Hopefully I can pull out some codes from the history.

Also if it's the transfer case, if I unplug it, would the car drive again? I would be grateful for any help or advice. If you had issues with a transfer case can you tell me about your symptoms and if they were similar or not? What sucks is that there are no lights on the dash anymore.

As you appear to recognize, If you have INPA or other Software capable of reading Fault Codes in the VGSG (Transfer Case Module) and EGS (Automatic Transmission Module, it is likely that you will find some clues in the Fault Codes saved in Fault Memory in those modules.

The TIS circuit diagram for the Transfer Case (A70006) is linked below, and as you can see, there are TWO fuses that power the Transfer Case Module, F38 (30A) and F20 (5A). I would assume that the 30-Amp fuse (F38) powers the VTG Actuator Motor (M8533), while the 5-Amp fuse (F20) powers the control electronics. That Fuse F20 ALSO powers the DSC Module, so you WILL get multiple warning lights, to include ABS & DSC if you pull F20.

I don't know if just pulling F38 will give you any warning lights, but it SHOULD prevent VTG Actuator Motor operation, which is the most likely suspect for the noise you describe, particularly if the noise is coming from the transfer case area, BEHIND the Transmission.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...l-unit/rCrHJN7

Please provide the following information so someone can help further:
1) Build Month/Year for your 2007 model? There are differences in some systems, AND in the fuse numbering/location
between early 2007 models built BEFORE 3/1/2007 and those built 3/2007 - 8/2007;
2) WHAT specific tests or diagnostics the shop did, to include any fluid level checks in transfer case or either differential (front or rear)?
3) Any codes read or Freeze Frame Data obtained?
4) If there is ANY written invoice or statement related to work /tests/ diagnostics the shop did, please attach a jpg format scan of that invoice to your next post.
5) What Software/Scan Tool you have which can connect to Transmission, Transfer Case, or DSC Modules to read any Codes, FF Data or Fault Details?
6) If you have a Windows 10 Laptop with INPA and know how to read Fault Codes in ALL Modules using Functional Jobs, or know how to connect to the various modules for MORE information, or want to install INPA and learn how to do that, I can assist with the latter.
7) Has anyone checked the Drive-shaft U-joints, particularly the rear Front Drive Shaft U-joint, just ahead of the Transfer Case, to make sure NONE of them are broken or seized?

I have NOT personally had any issue with my Transfer Case, but others have changed Actuator Motors, replaced Motor drive gear, or dealt with other issues. Your report of a squealing noise that accompanies the lack or forward motion is NOT something I recall anyone reporting on any E9x forum in the last two years, but perhaps someone reading this HAS experienced such a thing. I would suggest checking the archives on this forum and also Bimmerfest.

I would start with pulling BOTH F20 & F38 (realizing you WILL get DSC/ABS warning lights) and seeing if the same resistance to forward movement and squeal remain. Then read Fault Codes, Freeze Frame Data & Fault Details, and let us know what you find.

I would NOT drive the vehicle until you have read codes as described above and checked fluid levels in Transfer Case & Diffs (NOT easy unless you can safely elevate the vehicle in a level position, using ramps, several trolley jacks and jack stands).

George

[BMWsandDobermansGirl]

Hi George,

Thank you for your informative reply.

1) actually looking at the door sticker, it says 06/06. I got a couple of people here in Toronto thinking an 06 was the older model (not the e90) so I just used 07 to avoid confusion. It's a fully loaded 06. Would the fuse numbering remain the same? Should I go ahead and disconnect those 2 fuses?

2) regarding the shop I took it to. I had no choice but to have it towed to the nearest shop ran by decent folk but the owner seems to be losing his memory. He's an old man, very nice. When I asked them to give me the codes they saw, they said they didn't write them down but it mentioned the transfer case. Unfortunately, they are closed until Monday so I can't call them to ask if they checked any fluids. I would imagine they did though after receiving a transfer case code. That should be the first thing they check. I haven't noticed any leaks.

3) I'm waiting on the obd2 cable to arrive on Monday. In the meantime I'm installing ista, my brother (currently in another country) is helping me by sending me the program. I've seen him use it before, seems pretty straight forward. I've fixed the car on my own before with his help over the phone so I hope I can fix it again, even though he keeps telling me this sounds very serious. I have hope. I have 2 ramps for the car so I can put it up half way. I'm going to try to get my hands on 2 more ramps (since it needs to be leveled) or if I get the car moving rear wheel when I take the fuses out, I can take it to the shop down the street to some new guys. Once I get the codes though, I will take a screen shot and send it.

4) the old guy at the shop just changed my engine oil (it's been 5k kms since my last change) and put code check on the receipt. I can't find out if they checked the TC oil levels until Monday. I'll call and ask them but there's nothing on the invoice.

5) ista , I know there are a bunch out there. Bimmergeek / I think i might have access to Carly as well if the app allows me to share my brothers account.

6) I appreciate your assistance George. I think I'll be able to figure out the codes. I'm find out Monday.

7) regarding the drive-shaft u-joints. I read up on symptoms of a bad drive-shaft u- joint and they sound different. There's usually shutter or vibration, metal on metal sounds or having a hard time turning the wheels. I don't have any of those but I also read up a lot on transfer case symptoms and it doesn't sound like those either. This is really confusing. I'm not sure how I can check the drive-shaft u-joints. Are they visible from under the car without removing anything?

I'm just hoping right now the car drives when I remove the fuses that way I can at least have it sent to a mechanic without towing it again.

I will repost once I take out the fuses and once I receive the cable on Monday with codes.


Cheers,
L

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by BMWsandDobermansGirl

...
1) actually looking at the door sticker, it says 06/06...Would the fuse numbering remain the same? Should I go ahead and disconnect those 2 fuses? [I would try that following the cautions below. Fuses are numbered same (F20 & F38), just different layout as explained below.]

2) regarding the shop I took it to...the owner seems to be losing his memory. He's an old man, very nice. [As we get older, we seem to "Lose Things" 'cuz we can't remember where we had them last -- like our memory ] When I asked them to give me the codes they saw, they said they didn't write them down but it mentioned the transfer case. [That's like NOT writing down a P-code but assuring the customer it had SOMETHING to do with the Engine -- NOT terribly helpful ] Unfortunately, they are closed until Monday so I can't call them to ask if they checked any fluids. I would imagine they did though after receiving a transfer case code. That should be the first thing they check. I haven't noticed any leaks. [If the shop does NOT make written entries into a database or invoicing system and is NOT able to provide a printout of information kept in the normal course of business, it is advisable to START OVER with the diagnosis, using ISTA and your own observations reported to this forum for evaluation, BEFORE you drive the car, or tow it anywhere]

3) I'm waiting on the obd2 cable to arrive on Monday. In the meantime I'm installing ista, my brother (currently in another country) is helping me by sending me the program. I've seen him use it before, seems pretty straight forward...[I have "BMW Standard Tools" installed on my Laptop and use INPA which is included in those Tools. It is my understanding that most ISTA (Rheingold) installations require installation of BMW Standard Tools first, which means that if you get ISTA properly installed, you also have INPA. You should be able to read Fault Codes and their Definitions, Freeze Frame Data or Fault Details, with EITHER INPA or ISTA.]

7) regarding the drive-shaft u-joints...I'm not sure how I can check the drive-shaft u-joints. Are they visible from under the car without removing anything? I'm just hoping right now the car drives when I remove the fuses that way I can at least have it sent to a mechanic without towing it again. Cheers, L

Fuses:
Here is the correct TIS circuit diagram for your E90 325i built 06/2006 (-2007/02):
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...l-unit/rCrHJN7

Here is the TIS Fuse "Installation Location" for F20 & F38:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...use/1VnYLtbcQt

Note that the fuse-numbering is generally Left-to-Right and Top-to-Bottom for your model (NOT so for vehicles built between 3/1/2007 & 8/31/2007). There is some discrepancy between the Bentley Fuse Chart and the TIS diagram. The Fuse Layout or Configuration of the JB/ Fusebox was changed COMPLETELY effective 3/1/2007 Build Date and I have no way of confirming if the TIS chart is correct for your 2006 model. I would personally tend to believe the TIS diagram, as that is a Web page which SHOULD have been changed/ corrected by now IF it were wrong. I would be interested in knowing if you have a tri-fold fuse diagram attached to the Forward-facing side of your glovebox (the piece with the two twist fasteners which you remove to access the JB (Junction Box) Fuse Panel, and if so, does it show Location of F20 & F38 the same as TIS diagram linked above?

Splash Shields & "Squealing Sound" Source Identification:
If your car has the "Splash Shields" or "Underbody Protection" properly in place (those seem to get lost in shops as they get older -- an age thing I suppose ;-) you will need to remove the REAR splash shield to properly examine the U-joint on the Rear of the Front Drive Shaft. That's the one that mounts to the Left Front of the transfer case. There have been reported cases, at least on X3 or X5 models, of failure of that joint allowing the shaft to grind on the side of the transmission pan mounting flange. If the U-joint fails completely, you do NOT want to be in the moving vehicle.

So BEFORE moving forward at anything MORE than ~ 3 MPH, I would suggest identifying the source or point of origination of the "squealing noise." I know noises are hard to describe, but try to get a helper to listen from a safe position that is low enough and close enough to the door sill to be able to determine if the sound is coming from the Transfer Case, the Drive Shaft, or the Differential, and if it is a high-pitched grinding sound, metal on metal, slipping gear, etc., and if it ONLY occurs with slight vehicle movement, or if it also occurs with NO vehicle movement, such as BRAKES firmly applied as you also apply light throttle to "torque" the Transfer Case and Drive Shafts. It would be helpful to have BOTH the Front & Rear Splash Shields removed in doing those "listening" tests.

If you have a basic understanding of the system, and INPA/ISTA, ramps, etc. you will be able to do much of the Diagnostics yourself, with your brother's help and help from this forum. Just stay safe with proper procedures (ramps, wheel chocks, jack stands, etc.) working beneath the vehicle. You do NOT need any tools more complicated than a 1/4"-Drive Socket set with 8mm socket to remove the Splash Shields.

Is there any history of water in the Passenger Footwell, wet carpet or floormat on that side? The Transfer Case Electronic Module (A70006) is located under the carpet just forward of the front passenger seat, so if there IS any history of such a water issue, it would be advisable to remove the carpet and remove, examine, and clean/ dry the connector pins/ sockets with Electronic Contact Cleaner. Here is the TIS Installation Location for the Module:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...r-box/2c7wBQeU

I suppose the "worst-case" scenario would be that your Transfer Case is toast due to slow leakage of oil. The Transfer Case oil capacity is only .52 Liter, and there have been reports of people finding the TC essentially DRY. Accessing the Fill Plug, which is a 14mm Hex female plug requires some specialized instruction and a tool most people do NOT have. You state the Transfer Case Fluid was changed 3 years ago. If you didn't do that yourself, you are probably NOT properly equipped with tools or Procedure to check fluid level yourself. Please let us know.

George

[BMWsandDobermansGirl]

So I managed to get some fault codes using INPA from the memory before the battery died! I have to wait for my neighbor to come home so I can get a boost from them before I can do anything else.

But these codes don't look so good. I looked up the meaning to each code and this is what I got from online forums.

5462 VTG: Fault, servomotor or coupling force too high
5463 VTG: Mechanism faulty
54c4 - calibration faulty
54c6 - oil wear
55c3 VTG: AWD limp-home control activated. No DSC specified nominal torque


Not too happy about this.
What do you think George?

-L

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by BMWsandDobermansGirl

...fault codes using INPA:
5462 VTG: Fault, servomotor or coupling force too high
5463 VTG: Mechanism faulty
54c4 - calibration faulty
54c6 - oil wear
55c3 VTG: AWD limp-home control activated. No DSC specified nominal torque
...-L

I think you must have used BMW Fault Code Lookup which provides:
5462 | VTG: Fault, servomotor or coupling force too high | vgsg70 | Transfer box
5463 | VTG: Mechanism faulty | vgsg70 | Transfer box
54C4 | Transfer box (VTG): Calibration faulty | vgsg70 | Transfer box
54C6 | VTG: Oil wear | vgsg70 | Transfer box
55C3 | VTG: AWD limp-home control activated. No DSC specified nominal torque | vgsg70 | Transfer box

Oil Wear Fault is NOT significant by itself as any xDrive with > 125,000 miles 200,000 km is likely to show that. Wonder WHEN (at what km reading) that code was Saved in Memory (Fault Code Details in VGSG (Transfer Case) Module would show you that. If it ONLY appeared after the fluid was supposedly changed ~ 3 years ago, that COULD be significant, either as to wrong fluid used, a leak, etc.

If you would like me to give a short explanation of how to connect to the VGSG Module to get more information (mostly in German which can be translated easily enough using Google Translate, let me know. I presume you just used "Functional Jobs" to get the code numbers.

No way of knowing exact cause of fault without removing the Servomotor/ Actuator and checking fluid level, but the most likely situation is that the Servomotor or its drive gear has failed. Here is the procedure for accessing that Servomotor. It does involve "Removal of the Exhaust System" to gain access to the Transfer Case area, but that is NOT a major job for a shop with a lift:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...r-box/1LI6Eilz

George

[BMWsandDobermansGirl]

Hi George,

It seems that you're right. I've been on and off the phone with my brother all day and we finally got the car moving after clearing the codes and I think when the battery died the servomotor.. (that's what it's called right? the actuator motor?) it was stuck and that's why the car wouldn't drive at all making screatching noises. I guess that doesn't happen too often with people on the forum! My brother thinks it was stuck not in or out that's why the codes weren't appearing as well.
That's what you were thinking as well?

So after the car became unstuck the codes appeared on the dash and the car started driving rear wheel drive. So again, we think the actuator motor was stuck. While the car was on and driving, I took out fuse F38 as you said and nothing on the dash changed then when I took out F20, the passanger airbag sign came on and wipers started going on their own nonstop. I put it back and it stopped so I tried again taking out, same thing. SO I had to put that fuse back and leave it in. I turned the car off and on again several times and it seems like fuse 38 is doing the trick and not letting the actuator motor move anymore.
I can drive it like this for a while which is good because it's so difficult being without a car. I can take it to the mechanic now because it's been over 30C here EVERYDAY! It's almost as hot as Florida weather! I don't feel like doing any work on my car in this weather. I'll take it to the new guys around the corner and see how much they'll charge. Apparently, the actuator motor does a half spin? Do you think it would be possible to tell the guys at the shop to spin the gear to the other side that doesn't get used? Maybe it won't get stuck. Does that make any sense? not sure.. I"m going to watch some youtube videos on actuator motors.

What is the VGSG module? I wouldn't mind being able to get more info. We could still be wrong about what's going on.. I'm trying to download a good version of ISTA but the cloud storage is making me wait a couple of hours before I can finish downloading it. (some cloud storage scam to get me to pay them to have more access). I'll have it downloaded in 4 hours.

Oh, there is a rattling noise when I turn on the car that has been there for a long time and I had no idea that was the transfer case making the noise. I thought it was a loose guard somewhere. Before I took the fuse out the car was making that rattling noise from under the car constantly. I recorded it in a video. When I took the fuse out that rattling noise went away I think.. I tried turning the car off and on again and I didn't hear that rattle anymore. Maybe the TC? IDK.. it sounds like a loose metal rattling with the vibrations of the engine for a couple of seconds when the engine starts.. but it was non-stop for a minute or two. Not sure if I can post short videos on here?

I've attached photos of the INPA codes if you were interested in seeing the fault codes with further details. sorry about the quality of the photos, it's an older laptop, dust magnet, but an I7 so I still use it. The KMs of the codes are all pretty much around the same time. I was driving a fair distance when the situation first happened and the codes came on.

I'm so glad it's nothing too serious. It's not the whole transfer case which would cost a lot more than an actuator motor. Still, I hope it's what we think it is and nothing more serious. I am planning on getting a new car in the next year or two. If this car can last me another 2 years, it would be perfect. I think I'm going to lease a Tesla once I move on, see how those are. Gas prices as too ridiculous.

Cheers,
L

[BMWsandDobermansGirl]

I'm thinking of taking it to the mechanics as soon as I make a deal with them to have them check the Oil levels and the servomotor as you say.. I think only then I can be sure of what the actual problem is.
I shouldn't drive it rear wheel drive if the oil is low. I will have that checked tomorrow if possible.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by BMWsandDobermansGirl

I'm thinking of taking it to the mechanics as soon as I make a deal with them to have them check the Oil levels and the servomotor as you say.. I think only then I can be sure of what the actual problem is.
I shouldn't drive it rear wheel drive if the oil is low. I will have that checked tomorrow if possible.

Just be aware that checking oil level in the Transfer Case requires a special 14mm hex socket or just the 14mm bit driven out of the socket, AND removal of part of the Support Bracket for the TC, AND POSSIBLY removing an exhaust brace & deflection of the exhaust. BMW hid the fill plug high on the right side of the TC behind that other stuff, and it's quite possibly a 30 to 60 minute job just to get that plug out, top up (WITH PROPER BMW TC OIL) and put it all back together, even after getting it airborne. Car MUST be level, so just one pair of ramps won't get it.

Bottom line is that if you're going to pay someone to check & top up fluid level, you are half way to getting Servomotor out (depending on how difficult the exhaust is to separate).

I really do NOT know anything about the Transfer Case, or what may need "Recalibration" or "Resetting", but if the issue began after the battery was dead or disconnected for a time, your ONLY issue may be that the the system needs Recalibrating or Resetting of Resistance after clearing current memory. I would suggest trying to find someone familiar with INPA F5 Status, and F6 Activations (Steuern) as each of the Menu choices relates to YOUR Transfer Case & VGSG Control Module for the TC. If you have INPA running now, and can connect to the VGSG, you can read, copy & translate the F5 & F6 menus so you understand what to ask about.

You apparently can connect to VGSG based upon the "Photos" of INPA screens you attached to the prior post (you seem computer-savvy enough to understand the concept of: Shft+PrtSc; Paste ScreenPrint to "Paint" photo editor; SaveAs jpg file in folder of choice; attach jpg to forum post). That way you don't have to take photos of yourself taking photos of you computer, and best of all, it doesn't matter HOW DIRTY you computer screen is.

Please let us know how it goes,
George

[gbalthrop]

Attached is the F6 Activations (Steuern) Menu from INPA when connected to the VGSG. Here are the Translations:
F1: Clear HO Integrators (HO Integratoren Loschen)
F2: Reset resistance class of the gearbox (Widerstandsklasse des Getriebe new setzen)
F3: Clear Calibration Memory (Kalibrierspeicher Loschen)

BTW, what was the mileage/km reading on odometer (1) when ANY Transfer Case issue first occurred, (2) when there was
a battery issue, and (3) NOW? Note the 3 mileage/km readings in FF Data: 247,448; 247,360; and 245,872 (Oil Wear Fault).

George

[BMWsandDobermansGirl]

Just for your info, I took photos of my screen instead of printing scrn/paste /saving each because it was faster. My laptop battery doesn't last too long and I didn't want my laptop to die on me while connected to inpa. I know that could cause problems so it was faster for me to take the photos. I wasn't planning on posting them here.

Yeah, I'm going to speak to the guys at the shop after stocking up on groceries. If they can confirm what the actual problem is, and the part is not $1000 then I'm just going to go ahead and order the part and fix it. Like I said, it's been super hot here. Hopefully tomorrow we get a little break but I'd rather take it to the shop. I don't have a car lift.

The battery died yesterday while reading the codes. The problem was from before but I drove it for a bit rear wheel drive. Then it got stuck and wouldn't drive. Started making the terrible noise and the car wouldn't move forward. The 4x4 lights weren't even coming on because the actuator motor was stuck half in half out, it seems. When the 4x4 disconnects completely, the codes show up. That's why it was stuck with no codes.

So now finally that it's not stick and it drives at least, taking the fuse out I hope helps it from trying to reactivate the 4x4 again, so in the meantime to drive it without it being stuck again.

I'm excited to get ISTA installed and working. I'll go into the transfer case control unit (VGSG) using that hopefully.

Cheers
L

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by BMWsandDobermansGirl

...Yeah, I'm going to speak to the guys at the shop after stocking up on groceries. If they can confirm what the actual problem is, and the part is not $1000 then I'm just going to go ahead and order the part and fix it.Cheers L

That or the "BMW Diet"

With any luck, something got stuck and the "Nylon"(?) gear wore off. There have been threads on this Forum or others such as Bimmerfest with reports of worn drive gear and simple cheap replacement (JUST the gear you see in the photos of replacement motor units, which is simply "Pinned" to the motor-drive shaft. I have NO idea of replacement gear availability/ source.

Here's a replacement Motor Unit for $278 US, with others up to over $1,000 (grocery budget ;-) for "Genuine BMW":
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=bmw+27107...b_sb_ss_i_1_11

Since my 328xi is about the same age as your 2006/06 325xi, I'm trying to learn something from your experience, so please keep us posted.

George

[BMWsandDobermansGirl]

I've done the BMW Diet before, not my first time.. lol Last time it was the dead middle of winter and that really sucked.

So I have a noise coming from the back wheel. Remember how I mentioned I had a brake sensor that was tripped (but the brakes still had lots of life in them) so I ignored the brake sensor. I bought a replacement sensor but didn't have it check out. Well, when the 4x4 and all the other lights went off the first time, there was a noise like stk stk stk stk stk coming from the back right wheel. It's gotten louder so I'm going to have that check out first thing. It could be causing the whole situation , or not. The brake lights went away though after the AWD stopped working. So strange.

I scanned the car (WITHOUT THE FUSE) today with ISTA. Such a nice program
I got like 47 old faults from the memory so I deleted those and ended up with 4. I'll post the screen shot of them. This is W/OUT the FUSE though. I'm worried if I put the fuse back on the Servomotor will get stuck again and I won't be able to move it.
My bro told me to take it for a spin and scan it again. I haven't done that yet, thinking of going to have the wheel checked out first thing. My bro says the Transfer Case: Internal fault (005F3A) is because when they changed my TC Oil 3 years ago, they didn't reset it. Not sure what all these codes mean. Nice to see the codes, would be nice to have a guide on what each one meant exactly. Is there such a thing?

But Yeah, I have a feeling it is that nylon or plastic gear that's causing all this, it does seem to happen a lot to others (along with something in my right wheel that's probably unrelated). Thanks for the links for the replacement. I'll keep you updated after the mechanic check. I"ll put the fuse back at the mechanic and scan it there. In case it get's stuck again, it'll be with them already.

Cheers,
L

[BMWsandDobermansGirl]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Attached is the F6 Activations (Steuern) Menu from INPA when connected to the VGSG. Here are the Translations:
F1: Clear HO Integrators (HO Integratoren Loschen)
F2: Reset resistance class of the gearbox (Widerstandsklasse des Getriebe new setzen)
F3: Clear Calibration Memory (Kalibrierspeicher Loschen)

BTW, what was the mileage/km reading on odometer (1) when ANY Transfer Case issue first occurred, (2) when there was
a battery issue, and (3) NOW? Note the 3 mileage/km readings in FF Data: 247,448; 247,360; and 245,872 (Oil Wear Fault).

George

Btw, regarding the INPA F6 Activation menu you wrote about a couple of posts back.. while connected to the VGSG. Was that to recalibrate it? I checked the calibration with ISTA and it said like -100. something calibration but IT IS OFF (0.00 A) because the fuse is out I guess. But I will recheck calibration when I put the fuse back in. Maybe it does need calibrating? Another problem might be that my battery is dying and I recall (the day the AWD stopped working) the battery did seem to be dead but the car still turned on. The car turned on but everything was reset, the time date, everything but then it all came back I think. I don't see how that could cause calibration to go off balance?
Anyways, If I need to calibrate, I'm guessing I would be able to do that with ISTA which should give me better feedback.
Ah, cars are such complicated things. I don't think electric cars are this big of a head ache. no oil changes, no gas,.. I wonder.

-L

[BMWsandDobermansGirl]

So I think we made a mistake. the E90 doesn't have a plastic gear inside the Transfer Case. The e90 has a metal gear that doesn't seem to melt. What seems to melt in the transfer case is the WORM GEAR. I've been looking at the wrong Youtube videos because I was told it's plastic and most videos are of older models that show the plastic gear.

So I think THESE two youtube videos show better what might be happening in my car.

Part 1

Part 2 shows the old part how it's melted beside a newer one.

Again the codes I have right now after clearing codes and driving it with the fault lights are:
1) All Wheel control: 005F3A DSC: Transfer Case : Internal
2) Electric Steering lock 00A0B5 CAS: Fault, road speed signal
3)Transfer Box :Mechanism 005463 VTG: Mechanism Faulty
4)Transfer Box: Message Error, loss of all-wheel-drive 0055c3 AWD limp-mode control activated. No DSC specified nominal torque.
5) CAN/FlexRay bus system analysis: No message 00D01C Message error (Speed, 0x1A0), receiver LDM, transmitter DSC

I think #5 is for the cruise control and the others seem to point towards the worm gear or something in the transfer box. I think #2 is a separate issue?

My car is at the mechanic right now (I thought he could just flip the gear thinking it was the plastic one) but I think I'm going to go get my car back before he opens it, go buy a worm gear and then send it back to them with the replacement worm gear.

I'm still learning how to use ISTA, watching lots of Youtube videos on how to fully utilize it, but ISTA should be telling me exactly what to look for and what parts to change from the error codes. I have to figure how to get that info out.

George, does your car have an Idrive/bluetooth module? I'm having issues with mine after changing the CCC from a slightly newer car. Phone not recognized anymore. I think I see a fault code for that too. 6) MOST system analysis: 00FFF5 MOSTSYS: Fault: OPS/OPPS stored in setpoint configuration

Any idea what that means? I'll update after the I get the worm gear replacement and the mechanic actually opens up the car. Hopefully SOON. really sucks on gas RWD

[nsjames]

even if the actuator is failed the car should drive.

the rear output of the transfer case is a straight shaft from the input.

the only thing the actuator does is move the clutch plates to engage/disengage torque to the front axle.
Unless it's completely gacked with a major mechanical bearing failure it will not stop the car from moving.
Here's the exploded view:
https://www.automaticchoice.com/en/t...arts-catalogue

note that the input and rear output are the same shaft. There's no way it can become disconnected internally unless it's broken. You would have heard it, and it would be making banging noises when in gear as the shaft spins freely inside the case driven by the transmission output.

it sounds like what you need to do is jack it up and start pulling off wheels so you can figure out where the drivetrain is locked up. it could be a failed wheel bearing that's eaten the abs sensor causing the errors.

not to say that your case doesn't need some attention, as it obviously does, but it shouldn't keep the car from going.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by BMWsandDobermansGirl

So I think we made a mistake. the E90 doesn't have a plastic gear inside the Transfer Case. The e90 has a metal gear that doesn't seem to melt. What seems to melt in the transfer case is the WORM GEAR. I've been looking at the wrong Youtube videos because I was told it's plastic and most videos are of older models that show the plastic gear...

I've never taken mine apart (never any issues ;-) so can't say WHAT the various gears are made of. OTHERS have reported worn gears on E9x Transfer Case Servomotors. Whether its the large toothed gear on the right-angle drive output, or the motor shaft worm gear, BEFORE you can be sure WHAT the problem is (IF in fact the problem is a worn gear) you have to remove the Servomotor as shown in the first video, and then remove the motor from the right-angle drive to inspect the motor shaft worm gear.

IF in fact the motor shaft worm gear is worn as shown in the videos, you PROBABLY need to replace the entire motor, as the output shaft is NOT a separate replaceable part AFAIK. ALSO, I am NOT aware of any source for parts, either for the motor or the right-angle drive. The "AC" link provided by NSJAMES provides no information (at least unless you ask for quote) on the servomotor or its attached drive. It appears to be "unobtainium" except as a used part, or new/reman replacement.

Please let us know what you find,
George

[roadkillrob]

The plastic gear was how they worked in the older version of the transfer case, like the old X3, for a long time no one made a replacement for the e90 worm gear that fails until recently there have been some sources on ebay that have them, so you may be able to repair your actuator and not replace the entire VTG motor. I have had one fail with the same lights as you have years ago, pulled it apart and it was the worm gear with no teeth left on it in the middle of it, but no one was making the part back then, had to put a hole motor in it then for 500.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Transfe...QAAOSwU65cGb9m

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-transfe...4AAOSwDTNatE0P

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

I've never taken mine apart (never any issues ;-) so can't say WHAT the various gears are made of. OTHERS have reported worn gears on E9x Transfer Case Servomotors. Whether its the large toothed gear on the right-angle drive output, or the motor shaft worm gear, BEFORE you can be sure WHAT the problem is (IF in fact the problem is a worn gear) you have to remove the Servomotor as shown in the first video, and then remove the motor from the right-angle drive to inspect the motor shaft worm gear.

IF in fact the motor shaft worm gear is worn as shown in the videos, you PROBABLY need to replace the entire motor, as the output shaft is NOT a separate replaceable part AFAIK. ALSO, I am NOT aware of any source for parts, either for the motor or the right-angle drive. The "AC" link provided by NSJAMES provides no information (at least unless you ask for quote) on the servomotor or its attached drive. It appears to be "unobtainium" except as a used part, or new/reman replacement.

Please let us know what you find,
George

there is someone making replacement worm gears.
you have to do a little dremel work to remove the old and slide on the new.
It's not suprt difficult.

I posted the diagram to illustrate that even if you removed the servo actuator, you should still have RWD, as that is a completely mechanical solid connection from the transmission output to the transfer case output.

what really needs to happen, in my opinion, is a car on jackstands with all the wheels removed put in neutral to figure out what moves, what doesn't and what binds and grinds.

it could be a rear diff that has the whole drivetrain locked up.

[BMWsandDobermansGirl]

Hey, thanks for that nsjames but the car actually became unstuck when I took the fuse out (fuse 38 I think for the AWD) and drove it for a while with the fuse out. I did hear very loud rattling noise under the car when the car became unstuck and started driving again! I took a video of it to show my brother. I'll try to upload here so check back if you don't see it now. That rattle I have been hearing sometimes when I turn the car on for about 2 years, rattled only for a second when the engine turns on. Then I started hearing the rattle (again for a second) while I'm driving. So this rattle could be the problem for the AWD? I thought it was something lose. Anyways, I returned the fuse back in to get proper fault code readings in the car, drove it that way and the car hasn't gotten stuck again since then, which is puzzling but I'm glad.

So the jackass that works at the old man's garage decided he didn't want to do my car today. Good news is I went mechanic shopping and spoke to a new mechanic which seems to know a lot about this situation, better than everyone else I've spoken to and he recommended he takes a look at my car before I buy any parts and is willing to fix the car for me. When I described to this guy how the car got stuck and wouldn't move, he said it could be the whole transfer case. So he wants me to leave the car Monday morning, he's going to check the tires / brakes (as I got a fault for the speed sensors on the tires) and the transfer case (if speed sensors don't seem to be related.) The speed sensors wouldn't stop the AWD from working, would it? That rattle seems to indicate something very unhealthy has been going on for some time now, getting worst and worst, so the speed sensors, if rusted like the mechanic said they could be, wouldn't cause that rattle or AWD failure.

If it's the transfer case then he's only charging me labor and putting everything back together cuz I'm not fixing that. I'll just drive it rear wheel. If it's any of the gears then I'll get the part and he'll change it. George, I found that worm gear alone on eBay for 65$. It's aftermarket and I have no idea if it comes off? Why would they sell it if it didn't? There's the link to ebay. They also have the other gear in brass.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F29 3152071565

If it's the servomotor, I got a quote from a place called BMW Heaven for a low kms (98k he said which doesn't seem that low to me) servomotor for 250$. But I'm going to get whatever part after the mechanic opens the car up. This guy is decent and said all the right things, just like you George.

So hard to find good mechanics!
So in the mean time, I have the car, I'm going to play around with ISTA some more. Learn how to get repair plans and diagrams from fault codes.
Try to figure out the issue with my Bluetooth phone. Why the newer CCC says the phone is not compatible.

Cheers for now,
Lana

[BMWsandDobermansGirl]

Originally Posted by roadkillrob

The plastic gear was how they worked in the older version of the transfer case, like the old X3, for a long time no one made a replacement for the e90 worm gear that fails until recently there have been some sources on ebay that have them, so you may be able to repair your actuator and not replace the entire VTG motor. I have had one fail with the same lights as you have years ago, pulled it apart and it was the worm gear with no teeth left on it in the middle of it, but no one was making the part back then, had to put a hole motor in it then for 500.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Transfe...QAAOSwU65cGb9m

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-transfe...4AAOSwDTNatE0P

That's right. Sucks they didn't have them before. Did you have a rattle?
I'm trying to upload a video of the rattling noise but it won't let me upload mp4.

[BMWsandDobermansGirl]

Originally Posted by nsjames

there is someone making replacement worm gears.
you have to do a little dremel work to remove the old and slide on the new.
It's not suprt difficult.

I posted the diagram to illustrate that even if you removed the servo actuator, you should still have RWD, as that is a completely mechanical solid connection from the transmission output to the transfer case output.

what really needs to happen, in my opinion, is a car on jackstands with all the wheels removed put in neutral to figure out what moves, what doesn't and what binds and grinds.

it could be a rear diff that has the whole drivetrain locked up.

I will mention what you are saying to the mechanic Monday morning and see what he decides to do. Thanks for the info.