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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > BMW Coding > E90 Rear PDC retrofit, FRM VO question



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      10-10-2019, 08:20 PM   #1
alentje
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E90 Rear PDC retrofit, FRM VO question

Hi,

I have successfully acquired all the needed parts for the rear PDC for my E90. PDC module is 66.21 - 6 982 396, I was sceptical when I searched for these modules because there are quite a few revisions according to realoem, but I didn't find any reason for it not working with my E90.

The part that is worrying me the most is the coding. I'm pretty experienced with BMW coding, I have done it many times in the past but I was always told to stay away from FRM3 as it is very well known to "brick itself". There isn't enough research for why exactly this occurs, some say voltage fluctuation, the others say a software bug in the bootloader..

As we need to change the VO for this retrofit that is stored in the CAS and FRM, this made me worry. My friend who is a professional coder told me I shouldn't have any problems with changing just the VO in the FRM, not touching the coding of the module itself.

And, would it be okay if I put a battery charger on the battery while coding, or leaving the car running? I haven't seen anyone say what could prevent the bricking of the FRM3, so I would like to know some tips anyone has?
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      10-11-2019, 04:44 AM   #2
sdbmwcoding
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alentje View Post
Hi,

I have successfully acquired all the needed parts for the rear PDC for my E90. PDC module is 66.21 - 6 982 396, I was sceptical when I searched for these modules because there are quite a few revisions according to realoem, but I didn't find any reason for it not working with my E90.

The part that is worrying me the most is the coding. I'm pretty experienced with BMW coding, I have done it many times in the past but I was always told to stay away from FRM3 as it is very well known to "brick itself". There isn't enough research for why exactly this occurs, some say voltage fluctuation, the others say a software bug in the bootloader..

As we need to change the VO for this retrofit that is stored in the CAS and FRM, this made me worry. My friend who is a professional coder told me I shouldn't have any problems with changing just the VO in the FRM, not touching the coding of the module itself.

And, would it be okay if I put a battery charger on the battery while coding, or leaving the car running? I haven't seen anyone say what could prevent the bricking of the FRM3, so I would like to know some tips anyone has?
Writing VO to NFRM will not brick a faulty frm unit. It'll only brick if you code it or scan the frm, and that's if it's a faulty unit. Rear PDC coding doesn't require any frm coding so you're fine, don't overt think it. Frm is covered under a 10 year 150,000 mile warranty as well
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      10-11-2019, 05:48 AM   #3
alentje
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sd********* View Post
Writing VO to NFRM will not brick a faulty frm unit. It'll only brick if you code it or scan the frm, and that's if it's a faulty unit. Rear PDC coding doesn't require any frm coding so you're fine, don't overt think it. Frm is covered under a 10 year 150,000 mile warranty as well
That's very nice to hear actually. So basically what i need to do is enter the rear pdc VO and write to the CAS and FRM, and then code the CIC, enabling the PDC option?
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      10-11-2019, 06:03 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sd********* View Post
Writing VO to NFRM will not brick a faulty frm unit. It'll only brick if you code it or scan the frm, and that's if it's a faulty unit. Rear PDC coding doesn't require any frm coding so you're fine, don't overt think it. Frm is covered under a 10 year 150,000 mile warranty as well
+1
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      10-11-2019, 11:46 AM   #5
alentje
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Thanks guys very much. I'll install the PDC this weekend and I will let you know of the results. Hope all goes well
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      10-11-2019, 04:54 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alentje View Post
Thanks guys very much. I'll install the PDC this weekend and I will let you know of the results. Hope all goes well
Not sure if this is needed but if it's required to disconnect the battery before installing the sensors, that can also result in bricking the frm. If you don't need to disconnect it, don't touch it
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      10-11-2019, 07:10 PM   #7
alentje
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sd********* View Post
Not sure if this is needed but if it's required to disconnect the battery before installing the sensors, that can also result in bricking the frm. If you don't need to disconnect it, don't touch it
Thanks for the advice. I have heard about this also. I am just running a terminal 15 to the module so it won't be live without the ignition on, so we should be okay without disconnecting the battery

Last edited by alentje; 10-11-2019 at 07:42 PM..
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      10-13-2019, 08:20 PM   #8
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I decided to do part of the retrofit today, to test the sensors and the module.

Firstly I removed the glovebox to remove the fusebox, so I can run my power wire from the factory fuse. In the process of removing the fusebox I removed two extra screws that I shouldn't have done. The two screws that are holding down the junction box. Now what happened is that while removing the top connector with force I accidentally bumped the fusebox. At the same time I heard a gong and the red car on a lift symbol.

Now I tried the ignition but nothing at all, no radio no cluster nothing.

What actually happened is when I removed the top connector I bumped the fusebox accidentally unplugging the junction box, leaving the car without any CAN communication.

After I fixed this I continued. I ran the power from the fusebox and the CAN wires from the junction box to the PDC module in the rear. Then I started the car up and bingo, the PDC is working fine without any coding but of course no PDC display in the CIC.

I turned on the option MACRO_PDC, and it gave me PDC display but no red orange and green scale. Then I decided to only VO code the CAS for rear PDC. Still nothing..

Then I found another option in the CIC for the PDC sensor count. PDC_SENSOR_HINTEN set to 4 sensors and everything works like a treat. I decided to leave the FRM alone not touching the VO in it, because everything works OK and I wouldn't like to take the risk.

I didn't install them fully because the sensor mounts for the bumper are still not here, when they arrive I may do a full DIY if someone is interested.
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      10-14-2019, 06:48 AM   #9
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Simplest is generally best.

Why would you be afraid of changing the VO in CAS and NFRM? This is literally the most common operation using NCSExpert that is ever performed.

There is nothing wrong with coding the CIC directly but 1) it involves trial and error while you search for the relevant parameters and 2) if you or a service facility updates your modules you'll lose your PDC coding since it isn't in the VO
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      10-14-2019, 03:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpaul View Post
Simplest is generally best.

Why would you be afraid of changing the VO in CAS and NFRM? This is literally the most common operation using NCSExpert that is ever performed.

There is nothing wrong with coding the CIC directly but 1) it involves trial and error while you search for the relevant parameters and 2) if you or a service facility updates your modules you'll lose your PDC coding since it isn't in the VO
I underatand what the VO does but ISTA/D is showing rear PDC fine in the options list, and no faults at all for the CAS and NFRM VO's not matching. So I'd rather not try fixing something that ain't broken. I don't have an xprog and fixing the FRM here is too expensive. I'm not saying that changing the VO in it will break it but I'd rather not try
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      10-14-2019, 05:58 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alentje View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by dpaul View Post
Simplest is generally best.

Why would you be afraid of changing the VO in CAS and NFRM? This is literally the most common operation using NCSExpert that is ever performed.

There is nothing wrong with coding the CIC directly but 1) it involves trial and error while you search for the relevant parameters and 2) if you or a service facility updates your modules you'll lose your PDC coding since it isn't in the VO
I underatand what the VO does but ISTA/D is showing rear PDC fine in the options list, and no faults at all for the CAS and NFRM VO's not matching. So I'd rather not try fixing something that ain't broken. I don't have an xprog and fixing the FRM here is too expensive. I'm not saying that changing the VO in it will break it but I'd rather not try
If you're doing a full scan with ISTA and the FRM module is reading fine then the frm is okay. ISTA Will brick a faulty module if you read the the frm
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      10-15-2019, 08:07 AM   #12
alentje
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sd********* View Post
If you're doing a full scan with ISTA and the FRM module is reading fine then the frm is okay. ISTA Will brick a faulty module if you read the the frm
Is it really that easy to brick the FRM? I think I should stop scanning random cars without telling about the risks.
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      10-15-2019, 02:55 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alentje View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by sd********* View Post
If you're doing a full scan with ISTA and the FRM module is reading fine then the frm is okay. ISTA Will brick a faulty module if you read the the frm
Is it really that easy to brick the FRM? I think I should stop scanning random cars without telling about the risks.
Yes, you can brick the frm if you scan it. If you're scared of bricking the frm just don't code it or scan it. With ista to you can choose vehicle identification without vehicle test. Then once the module free comes up they'll all be grey. Press one and press call up ecu functions and it'll only scan that one module
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      02-05-2021, 02:02 PM   #14
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If you scan the FRM using ISTA+ and it is indeed a faulty unit, does it brick immediately, or just when it next reboots?

I’ve scanned mine several times and it hasn’t bricked, but I’m worried when I change my battery, it’s gonna kill it.
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      02-05-2021, 05:43 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eku1s View Post
If you scan the FRM using ISTA+ and it is indeed a faulty unit, does it brick immediately, or just when it next reboots?

I’ve scanned mine several times and it hasn’t bricked, but I’m worried when I change my battery, it’s gonna kill it.
Immediately, you can change your battery and your frm will be fine
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