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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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New to 335D - Where to begin?
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12-29-2019, 10:02 PM | #1 |
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New to 335D - Where to begin?
I am seriously considering purchasing an '11 335D with 99k on the clock for $9k. I am on the precipice of closing the deal, but wanted to throw a question out to you guys in the know about these cars.
So onto my question- Can people please chime in and tell me what sort of mods are going to be needed to make this car reliable? I don't want to put more than 1 or 2k into this car directly after purchasing to bring it to a level I'm happy with. Here's what I've surmised so far in a few days of research: Alphabet delete - does anyone have any idea how much an indy shop might charge for this? I live in an area that does not test emissions. I'm not even sure if a shop would want to touch this but I am scared of the consequences of leaving the emissions equipment in the car. Can anyone speak to costs here or any experience with this mod? - New downpipe w/ cat: $1,100 - Labor: ??? - Stage 2 tune - $900 Down the road maintenance - CBU: $700 ? Am I missing anything here? I'm starting to feel like this car may be too much of a front end investment and the savings in gas/the power might not be worth it. Can anyone maybe talk me into this? Or out of it? Haha I'm really wanting to pick people's brain about these cars. Any advice is most appreciated, thanks! |
12-30-2019, 02:01 AM | #2 |
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If you can’t work on this car yourself and/or don’t have or want to pay money for someone knowledgeable do the work, then Honda would be a better choice. Please also keep in mind that there are extended emission warranty up to 120k in some states. So you could run it stock. But be prepared to do cbu.
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12-30-2019, 10:44 AM | #5 |
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Only anecdotal but my 2011 D has 110K miles on it. It's bone stock (except the Bilstien shocks) and has all emissions equipment intact. I keep thinking it's time to replace but it runs so good, each year I say maybe next year. The car has been extremely reliable. I'm almost embarrassed to say how little maintenance has been required. Has original hoses, belts and even coolant (going to change that soon). The repair list is short, most covered under warranty:
I do not drive the car very much now as most my trips these days are short which I try to avoid using the diesel with. If a longer trip, then it get's used. |
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12-30-2019, 04:24 PM | #6 |
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Thanks for everyone's input.
A BMW technician through a local dealer out here told me to stay far away from this car for the emissions reasons. He also mentioned that diesel fuel itself in America is not right for these engines. Can anyone speak to this being the case? As a bit of a diesel novice I didn't even know there was different types of diesel outside of biofuel and regular. |
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12-30-2019, 05:03 PM | #7 | |
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As for CBU, my car didn't need it at any time during the 10 years/139K I had it. The fuel debate has gone on forever. One thing you must consider is that you live in OR, one of the California emissions states, and the fuel is of very high quality as a result. OR (and WA) fuel has adequate lubrication properties, and a high Cetane as a result. Especially if the fuel is a bio-diesel blend. Diesel fuel properties are set by the States. The BMW tech is full of it. Last edited by floydarogers; 12-30-2019 at 05:04 PM.. Reason: cbu |
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12-30-2019, 05:50 PM | #8 |
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Not really. The emissions are junk. Especially when a small piece of the whole puzzle doesnt work correctly and ...OP -Even cbu can be prevented without deletes... I'll never need cbu cleaning and yes I have all the stock components plus more.
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12-30-2019, 06:37 PM | #9 | |
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Also why would you say deletes are asking for trouble? Everything I've read suggests this car becomes significantly more reliable without the emissions stuff. |
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12-30-2019, 06:52 PM | #10 |
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FWIW. I bought my 335d about 2 months ago 80K, one owner and meticulous maintenance records. I didn't know anything about 335d's when I test drove it...but afterwards had to have it. Then I got online, and of course ran into all the ABC XYZ stuff....got me a little worried etc. I can wrench on cars half way decently, and thanks to posts here none of the hardware mods seem to be a big deal.
My plan is to run the car as it is "stock" and then if needed I'll deal with things as they come up . If that requires a downpipe etc, I'll go that route, but for now; "if it ain't broke...." Last edited by Jones68; 12-30-2019 at 06:58 PM.. |
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12-31-2019, 02:26 PM | #11 |
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01-01-2020, 09:29 PM | #12 | |
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01-02-2020, 09:32 AM | #13 |
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I believe the way these cars are driven means a lot to their reliability. If you read my contribution above in this thread I'm at 110K miles, stock, no issues. I also avoid using the Diesel for short trips (under 10 miles).
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leo_du_garde30.00 |
01-02-2020, 01:17 PM | #14 | |
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In my line of work *Preventative Maintenance* is king. No other machine is any different. That is what determines the reliability of these cars.
__________________
2011 335d tuned by B.R.R.
2011 X5 35d tuned by B.R.R. |
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leo_du_garde30.00 |
01-02-2020, 10:47 PM | #15 | |
The WEEBM3
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I did the exact same thing for my 335d, after that it's just maintain oil changes and pump gas.
Enjoy your purchase, don't go too crazy at the stop lights, the torque is very addicting. You'll keep wanting to floor it and feel your neck snap. |
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01-02-2020, 10:50 PM | #16 |
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I also agree with this statement. Preventative Maintenance is key, I usually look at the parts and guesstimate if the life of the part has been achieved from my time of purchase. Such as seals, gaskets, sensors (thermostat, oil level sensor, etc).
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01-03-2020, 01:10 AM | #17 |
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Truth! What blows me away most; is just pushing down when going about 70 and looking down and freaking out that I'm suddenly doing 115 and it's all so quiet and smooth.
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