[Segments]

So had a good day today and decided to do brakes real quick. Had brakes off in 10 minutes, but unfortunately my rotor set screw stripped. I played with it a bit and then decided to grab an extractor set. the extractor I chose then decided to snap . So I shaved her down so I could get wheel and rotor on as the set screw serves no more purpose other than to keep the rotor in place. Anybody have any ideas on what I can do to fix it? My plan is really just to find someone who can weld it out at this point as I cant even get a drill bit through the extractor tip, but any advice is appreciated.

[nsjames]

welding a nut to it would probably get it done, the heat really helps.

but really I would just leave it as it were and forget about it.

and I own a welder....

[IllSic_Design]

I would have probably just drilled the head off first before trying to use the extractor, but yeah I'd say welding a nut/bolt to it is your next best bet.

[Segments]

Originally Posted by IllSic_Design

I would have probably just drilled the head off first before trying to use the extractor, but yeah I'd say welding a nut/bolt to it is your next best bet.

So first thing I did was in fact just drill the head off. That allowed me to get the rotor off. Ironically enough, I was able to get some movement out of the set screw before it stripped. Unfortunately it wasn't loose enough for me to get any further movement out of it I guess, and that brought me to the extractor route.

[IllSic_Design]

Originally Posted by Segments

So first thing I did was in fact just drill the head off. That allowed me to get the rotor off. Ironically enough, I was able to get some movement out of the set screw before it stripped. Unfortunately it wasn't loose enough for me to get any further movement out of it I guess, and that brought me to the extractor route.

Ahh ok, I hate when that happens. Yeah I didn't pay too much attention when looking at your pic and assumed that was the head of the bolt, I see now it is the shank. Yeah I'd weld a nut or something, it should come out pretty easily since you said there was some movement already, unless the threads are tore up.

[Segments]

Originally Posted by IllSic_Design

Ahh ok, I hate when that happens. Yeah I didn't pay too much attention when looking at your pic and assumed that was the head of the bolt, I see now it is the shank. Yeah I'd weld a nut or something, it should come out pretty easily since you said there was some movement already, unless the threads are tore up.

Yeah thats what confused me. I really needed some heavy torque (jack handle) to get it cracked, but I know it moved a bit because the rotor was loose before i Started drilling. Brake job took me all of 45 minutes but the attempts at the set screw several hours haha. Gotta find someone whos willing to weld it off for me.

[ryan stewart]

leave it until you need new rotors, then just be annoyed putting the new rotor on without having a screw to hold it in place. Then just deal with it when you eventually need a wheel bearing in 100k.

[Segments]

Originally Posted by ryan stewart

leave it until you need new rotors, then just be annoyed putting the new rotor on without having a screw to hold it in place. Then just deal with it when you eventually need a wheel bearing in 100k.

Haha yeah that's the likely outcome. Just hate the idea of the rotor being loose everytime I take wheel off.

[ryan stewart]

Originally Posted by Segments

Haha yeah that's the likely outcome. Just hate the idea of the rotor being loose everytime I take wheel off.

Haha, yeah. Just make sure to give your tire guys a heads up.

If you really cared a good machinist could put it in a press, drill out the center of the screw, and probably clean the threads out.

but unless its a buddy doing it pro-bono honestly Id just proactively put a new bearing in. The hub/bearing combo is like $120.

[Segments]

Originally Posted by ryan stewart

Haha, yeah. Just make sure to give your tire guys a heads up.

If you really cared a good machinist could put it in a press, drill out the center of the screw, and probably clean the threads out.

but unless its a buddy doing it pro-bono honestly Id just proactively put a new bearing in. The hub/bearing combo is like $120.

I'm likey going to just use this as an excuse to get a stud conversion kit, that'll eliminate the purpose of that dumb set screw anyways.

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by Segments

Haha yeah that's the likely outcome. Just hate the idea of the rotor being loose everytime I take wheel off.

it will be fine.
it can't come off unless you're pulling calipers.
lots of cars don't have screws to hold rotors on.

[Segments]

Originally Posted by nsjames

it will be fine.
it can't come off unless you're pulling calipers.
lots of cars don't have screws to hold rotors on.

Good to know, I'll likely do the stud conversion anyways though 🤣

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by Segments

Good to know, I'll likely do the stud conversion anyways though 🤣

you know that the rotor will be just as loose over wheel studs right?

[Segments]

Originally Posted by nsjames

you know that the rotor will be just as loose over wheel studs right?

I understand it still wouldnt be tight per say, but having something for the rotor to rest on is good for me. I frequently swap wheels anyways so studs are something Ive needed.

[Yngvejos]

If it's the front rotor, I would remove the wheel bearing and try drilling it out from the back.
If the screw is already loose, it may spin out when the drill bit grabs into the metal.

[Segments]

Originally Posted by Yngvejos

If it's the front rotor, I would remove the wheel bearing and try drilling it out from the back.
If the screw is already loose, it may spin out when the drill bit grabs into the metal.

Not a bad idea as well; will consider it later today. Just the 4 bolts that hold it on right ?

[Yngvejos]

Just 4 bolts. Remember to remove the wheel speed sensor first to prevent damage to the sensor.

[Segments]

Originally Posted by Yngvejos

Just 4 bolts. Remember to remove the wheel speed sensor first to prevent damage to the sensor.

Awesome thanks

[Efthreeoh]

Just drill through it with a 1/4" twist drill. The threaded hole it sits in is a thru-hole through the hub flange. It's really not that critical.

That said, after many years wrenching BMW brakes, I've learned three things about the rotor screws: (1) even if you buy a new BMW, first thing is remove the wheels and remove the rotor screws and apply anti-seize to them, then reinstall; (b) get new rotor screws when you do a brake job; and (c) do not use a cheap-ass L-bar Allen wrench, use a T-wrench, or better yet a butterfly impact air-wrench.

[Segments]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Just drill through it. The threaded hole it sits in is a thru-hole through the hub flange. It's really not that critical.

That said, after many years wrenching BMW brakes, I've learned three things about the rotor screws: (1) even if you buy a new BMW, first thing is remove the wheels and remove the rotor screws and apply anti-seize to them, then reinstall; (b) get new rotor screws when you do a brake job; and (c) do not use a cheap-ass L-bar Allen wrench, use a T-wrench, or better yet a butterfly impact air-wrench.

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Just drill through it. The threaded hole it sits in is a thru-hole through the hub flange. It's really not that critical.

That said, after many years wrenching BMW brakes, I've learned three things about the rotor screws: (1) even if you buy a new BMW, first thing is remove the wheels and remove the rotor screws and apply anti-seize to them, then reinstall; (b) get new rotor screws when you do a brake job; and (c) do not use a cheap-ass L-bar Allen wrench, use a T-wrench, or better yet a butterfly impact air-wrench.

Yep, I had two new rotor set screws ready to go. I dont believe I have something strong enough to drill through the extractor tip which is certainly in the way.

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

Originally Posted by Segments

Yep, I had two new rotor set screws ready to go. I dont believe I have something strong enough to drill through the extractor tip which is certainly in the way.

Meh. At this point I'd just ignore it. If you can get the rotor to sit flush, it's good. I know plenty of people who throw out the rotor hold-down screw for this very reason.

Use a little bit of anti-seize to help it stay on the hub and you shouldn't have much of an issue reinstalling wheels.

[Segments]

Originally Posted by Welcome to NBA Jam

Meh. At this point I'd just ignore it. If you can get the rotor to sit flush, it's good. I know plenty of people who throw out the rotor hold-down screw for this very reason.

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Just drill through it. The threaded hole it sits in is a thru-hole through the hub flange. It's really not that critical.

That said, after many years wrenching BMW brakes, I've learned three things about the rotor screws: (1) even if you buy a new BMW, first thing is remove the wheels and remove the rotor screws and apply anti-seize to them, then reinstall; (b) get new rotor screws when you do a brake job; and (c) do not use a cheap-ass L-bar Allen wrench, use a T-wrench, or better yet a butterfly impact air-wrench.

Yeah I mean like I was saying its only purpose is to hold the rotor in place, as the lugs are what actually tighten her on. So with the stud conversion kit Ill be fine.