[dyllan12]

So .... sorry for the lack of knowledge but i'm about to go FBO in my n54 , i installed 5" FMIC , DCI , and charge pipe with tial bov... i'm about to install downpipes. There no tune on the car yet . I was driving and wasn't sure if i felt a difference or not ...

My question is

Do you only feel a difference only when you tune it , or you suppose to feel a difference with each part you install

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by dyllan12

So .... sorry for the lack of knowledge but i'm about to go FBO in my n54 , i installed 5" FMIC , DCI , and charge pipe with tial bov... i'm about to install downpipes. There no tune on the car yet . I was driving and wasn't sure if i felt a difference or not ...

My question is

Do you only feel a difference only when you tune it , or you suppose to feel a difference with each part you install

You might feel a little bit of a difference w/out the tune. You can usually get 25 to 50% of the HP listed w/ out the tune.

Once you put downpipes on, you will need the tune, or you will get a CEL.

If you google or search this forum, there's a check list of items you should have done prior to putting the tune on.

[E93Beast]

Originally Posted by dyllan12

So .... sorry for the lack of knowledge but i'm about to go FBO in my n54 , i installed 5" FMIC , DCI , and charge pipe with tial bov... i'm about to install downpipes. There no tune on the car yet . I was driving and wasn't sure if i felt a difference or not ...

My question is

Do you only feel a difference only when you tune it , or you suppose to feel a difference with each part you install

With the parts installed you will NOT feel a difference until you are tuned.
Downpipes, you MAY feel a difference, but still need to tune for it.

[E93Beast]

A little further insight...
Chargepipe = stronger, replaced from stock plastic to avoid popping / breaking it. Zero performance gain.
DCI = Better breathing capability, higher cfm to feed turbos. Without tuning and increasing boost to NEED more air flow, you wont feel a thing.
FMIC = Lower IATs, = more power, BUT if you are not running higher boost, your IATs were probably in check with the factory FMIC. So....no power to be gained here either.
Catless DPs= less exhaust restriction. once again, unless tuned for more boost, very slight chance to feel any increase in power gain. Especially stock turbos which spool very early in the rpm band STOCK with cats.
Tune (even stock turbos), and its night and day difference. Now you can utilize DCI, FMIC (higher boost , means hotter air that needs to be cooled), catless dps (more air in, means more air out), chargepipe is just a precaution to not pop under higher boost pressures (plastic has been known to break), hope this helps.

[type-dRew]

the car has a torque target it meets on factory tune, you might get a few hp from mods without a tune but if its hitting its torque target it will just pull boost and remove timing or close the throttle to limit power within the target

only way to take advantage of the hardware is with software

[dyllan12]

Originally Posted by CLEAN E93

A little further insight...
Chargepipe = stronger, replaced from stock plastic to avoid popping / breaking it. Zero performance gain.
DCI = Better breathing capability, higher cfm to feed turbos. Without tuning and increasing boost to NEED more air flow, you wont feel a thing.
FMIC = Lower IATs, = more power, BUT if you are not running higher boost, your IATs were probably in check with the factory FMIC. So....no power to be gained here either.
Catless DPs= less exhaust restriction. once again, unless tuned for more boost, very slight chance to feel any increase in power gain. Especially stock turbos which spool very early in the rpm band STOCK with cats.
Tune (even stock turbos), and its night and day difference. Now you can utilize DCI, FMIC (higher boost , means hotter air that needs to be cooled), catless dps (more air in, means more air out), chargepipe is just a precaution to not pop under higher boost pressures (plastic has been known to break), hope this helps.

Originally Posted by CLEAN E93

A little further insight...
Chargepipe = stronger, replaced from stock plastic to avoid popping / breaking it. Zero performance gain.
DCI = Better breathing capability, higher cfm to feed turbos. Without tuning and increasing boost to NEED more air flow, you wont feel a thing.
FMIC = Lower IATs, = more power, BUT if you are not running higher boost, your IATs were probably in check with the factory FMIC. So....no power to be gained here either.
Catless DPs= less exhaust restriction. once again, unless tuned for more boost, very slight chance to feel any increase in power gain. Especially stock turbos which spool very early in the rpm band STOCK with cats.
Tune (even stock turbos), and its night and day difference. Now you can utilize DCI, FMIC (higher boost , means hotter air that needs to be cooled), catless dps (more air in, means more air out), chargepipe is just a precaution to not pop under higher boost pressures (plastic has been known to break), hope this helps.

That make so much of sense! Appreciate it really , everyone on this app is so helpful and i've learned a lot

[dyllan12]

Originally Posted by type-dRew

the car has a torque target it meets on factory tune, you might get a few hp from mods without a tune but if its hitting its torque target it will just pull boost and remove timing or close the throttle to limit power within the target

only way to take advantage of the hardware is with software

Thank you , now that i read your post it makes sense ^*

[Knerr]

You are going to be very pleasantly surprised by the gains going from stock to stage 2+ all at once.

Be prepared to update coils and plugs at least. The tune will highlight any weaknesses your car has with a quickness.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by dyllan12

So .... sorry for the lack of knowledge but i'm about to go FBO in my n54 , i installed 5" FMIC , DCI , and charge pipe with tial bov... i'm about to install downpipes. There no tune on the car yet . I was driving and wasn't sure if i felt a difference or not ...

My question is

Do you only feel a difference only when you tune it , or you suppose to feel a difference with each part you install

There is a laundry list of items you should do to your car prior to tuning it. I would encourage you to do some proactive maintenance, you haven't already done so, or as sort of mentioned, it might get expensive very quickly with some frustration.

[dyllan12]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

There is a laundry list of items you should do to your car prior to tuning it. I would encourage you to do some proactive maintenance, you haven't already done so, or as sort of mentioned, it might get expensive very quickly with some frustration.

you got anything in mind other than spark plugs and coils ? I know I have a oil pan gasket leak , but that's getting fix before i tune it

[sbsk518]

Walnut blast

[alpnwss]

Kinda random but worth it: replacing your coolant hose to block fitting with an aluminum one. Technically called a 'coolant flange'. It's super cheap, easy as heck to do and could save you from getting towed or breaking it while working on your car. I think it's a no brainer. Mine was starting to crumble into the coolant (63k).

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by dyllan12

you got anything in mind other than spark plugs and coils ? I know I have a oil pan gasket leak , but that's getting fix before i tune it

1) Eldor coils
2) OEM plugs or NKG one step / two steps colder gapped are .022 or .018 accordingly
3) new o-rings
A) charge pipe
B) blow off valves
C) FMIC
D) inlets
E) outlets

4) smoke test system for any leaks
5) walnut blast intake valves
6) 5w-40 oil (change to)
A) consider doing a flush

7) flush trans oil through the trans cooler hot line (you'll need 12qts to do this correctly) + new filter pan - so, all 9qts in the system are brand new.
A) if over 150,000 miles - change the trans solenoids & megatronic sleeves etc.

8) platinum cured vacuum lines
9) run 20 gallon formula Techtron in gas tank
10) make sure vacuum canisters are holding pressure
11) make sure turbo actuators are working optimally
12) new coolant
A) consider adding a coolant booster

13) o2 sensors - if over 100k & they are original, replace all 4 of them, or be prepared to deal with the CEL's they will most likely cause.
A) yes MHD will shut off typical CEL's associated with downpipes, but older O2 sensors often cause additional CEL issues

14) use MHD to check the PSI of your LPFP. It should be 72-74 at idol & just driving around. At WOT, it should not dip below 60psi. If so, change it.
A) consider updating the LPFP to a stage 2. If you DIY it, you can do this for less than the cost of an OEM LPFP.

15) fix all oil leaks
A) valve cover
B) Oil Pan Gasket
C) RMS
D) OFHG
E) Front Crank Seal
A) consider a guard on the crank seal
B) consider an aluminum PS pulley

16) update Engine & Trans mounts, if over 100k
17) change your belt, belt tensioner & pulleys, if over 100k

18) correct any wastegate rattle
A) do a manual adjustment on the rear & add
washers to the wastegate housing bolts for the front to solve.
B) if wastegate persists after manual fix, use MHD to increase % , until the rattle stops.
C) if still wastegate rattle - then replace turbos.

19) if over 100,000 miles on Original injectors, update them to index 12.

I would buy all of my replacement parts from FCP Euro. You get a lifetime warranty on all items. A tune will decrease the life of coils, plugs & injectors by 1/2!

You will also have to change your oil a lot more often; every 7500 miles, at a bare minimum.

I know it's a lot.... some of this I have personally run into and others I've seen others run into.

Bottom line is to be "proactive"

Remember, you are doubling the amount of boost from 8-9psi to around 18psi.

You are adding around 130 hp & 200# pounds of torque. This puts a lot of strain on older components. ALWAYS keep that in mind.

[dyllan12]

Originally Posted by alpnwss

Kinda random but worth it: replacing your coolant hose to block fitting with an aluminum one. Technically called a 'coolant flange'. It's super cheap, easy as heck to do and could save you from getting towed or breaking it while working on your car. I think it's a no brainer. Mine was starting to crumble into the coolant (63k).

i've been searching google for one , and couldn't find exactly what you was talking about , by chance can you send me a link?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by dyllan12

i've been searching google for one , and couldn't find exactly what you was talking about , by chance can you send me a link?

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...024797ecs01~a/

[dyllan12]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

1) Eldor coils
2) OEM plugs or NKG one step / two steps colder gapped are .022 or .018 accordingly
3) new o-rings
A) charge pipe
B) blow off valves
C) FMIC
D) inlets
E) outlets

4) smoke test system for any leaks
5) walnut blast intake valves
6) 5w-40 oil (change to)
A) consider doing a flush

7) flush trans oil through the trans cooler hot line (you'll need 12qts to do this correctly) + new filter pan - so, all 9qts in the system are brand new.
A) if over 150,000 miles - change the trans solenoids & megatronic sleeves etc.

8) platinum cured vacuum lines
9) run 20 gallon formula Techtron in gas tank
10) make sure vacuum canisters are holding pressure
11) make sure turbo actuators are working optimally
12) new coolant
A) consider adding a coolant booster

13) o2 sensors - if over 100k & they are original, replace all 4 of them, or be prepared to deal with the CEL's they will most likely cause.
A) yes MHD will shut off typical CEL's associated with downpipes, but older O2 sensors often cause additional CEL issues

14) use MHD to check the PSI of your LPFP. It should be 72-74 at idol & just driving around. At WOT, it should not dip below 60psi. If so, change it.
A) consider updating the LPFP to a stage 2. If you DIY it, you can do this for less than the cost of an OEM LPFP.

15) fix all oil leaks
A) valve cover
B) Oil Pan Gasket
C) RMS
D) OFHG
E) Front Crank Seal
A) consider a guard on the crank seal
B) consider an aluminum PS pulley

16) update Engine & Trans mounts, if over 100k
17) change your belt, belt tensioner & pulleys, if over 100k

18) correct any wastegate rattle
A) do a manual adjustment on the rear & add
washers to the wastegate housing bolts for the front to solve.
B) if wastegate persists after manual fix, use MHD to increase % , until the rattle stops.
C) if still wastegate rattle - then replace turbos.

19) if over 100,000 miles on Original injectors, update them to index 12.

I would buy all of my replacement parts from FCP Euro. You get a lifetime warranty on all items. A tune will decrease the life of coils, plugs & injectors by 1/2!

You will also have to change your oil a lot more often; every 7500 miles, at a bare minimum.

I know it's a lot.... some of this I have personally run into and others I've seen others run into.

Bottom line is to be "proactive"

Remember, you are doubling the amount of boost from 8-9psi to around 18psi.

You are adding around 130 hp & 200# pounds of torque. This puts a lot of strain on older components. ALWAYS keep that in mind.

I really appreciate the whole layout , My turbos and injectors are new and small other minor parts , but I'm going to fix things little by little starting off with the major and going toward the minor parts ... But i'm really looking forward into the crank seal shield because i've heard some people belt fake off due to the filter leak and got sucked into the engine

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by dyllan12

I really appreciate the whole layout , My turbos and injectors are new and small other minor parts , but I'm going to fix things little by little starting off with the major and going toward the minor parts ... But i'm really looking forward into the crank seal shield because i've heard some people belt fake off due to the filter leak and got sucked into the engine

The belt can shred, for one of 5 reasons:

1) bad engine mounts that force the PS pulley (which is plastic) to hit the subframe & causes the belt to shred.

2) OFHG leak

3) old belts & pulleys & belt tensioner, that are over 100,000 miles old

4) Crank Seal leak

5) Valve Cover leak

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

The belt can shred, for one of 5 reasons:

1) bad engine mounts that force the PS pulley (which is plastic) to hit the subframe & causes the belt to shred.

2) OFHG leak

3) old belts & pulleys & belt tensioner, that are over 100,000 miles old

4) Crank Seal leak

5) Valve Cover leak

Extra insurance -


https://www.ecstuning.com/b-uro-prem...27553955prm~u/

[Raptor04]

I have a question.....is there any need to replace the post O2 sensors if you are running catless downpipes anyway? I understand the reason to change pre-O2 sensors as they age.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Raptor04

I have a question.....is there any need to replace the post O2 sensors if you are running catless downpipes anyway? I understand the reason to change pre-O2 sensors as they age.

The post cats monitor the precats to make sure they are working correctly; more importantly, they are responsible for fuel trims. That's super important

[dyllan12]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

1) Eldor coils
2) OEM plugs or NKG one step / two steps colder gapped are .022 or .018 accordingly
3) new o-rings
A) charge pipe
B) blow off valves
C) FMIC
D) inlets
E) outlets

4) smoke test system for any leaks
5) walnut blast intake valves
6) 5w-40 oil (change to)
A) consider doing a flush

7) flush trans oil through the trans cooler hot line (you'll need 12qts to do this correctly) + new filter pan - so, all 9qts in the system are brand new.
A) if over 150,000 miles - change the trans solenoids & megatronic sleeves etc.

8) platinum cured vacuum lines
9) run 20 gallon formula Techtron in gas tank
10) make sure vacuum canisters are holding pressure
11) make sure turbo actuators are working optimally
12) new coolant
A) consider adding a coolant booster

13) o2 sensors - if over 100k & they are original, replace all 4 of them, or be prepared to deal with the CEL's they will most likely cause.
A) yes MHD will shut off typical CEL's associated with downpipes, but older O2 sensors often cause additional CEL issues

14) use MHD to check the PSI of your LPFP. It should be 72-74 at idol & just driving around. At WOT, it should not dip below 60psi. If so, change it.
A) consider updating the LPFP to a stage 2. If you DIY it, you can do this for less than the cost of an OEM LPFP.

15) fix all oil leaks
A) valve cover
B) Oil Pan Gasket
C) RMS
D) OFHG
E) Front Crank Seal
A) consider a guard on the crank seal
B) consider an aluminum PS pulley

16) update Engine & Trans mounts, if over 100k
17) change your belt, belt tensioner & pulleys, if over 100k

18) correct any wastegate rattle
A) do a manual adjustment on the rear & add
washers to the wastegate housing bolts for the front to solve.
B) if wastegate persists after manual fix, use MHD to increase % , until the rattle stops.
C) if still wastegate rattle - then replace turbos.

19) if over 100,000 miles on Original injectors, update them to index 12.

I would buy all of my replacement parts from FCP Euro. You get a lifetime warranty on all items. A tune will decrease the life of coils, plugs & injectors by 1/2!

You will also have to change your oil a lot more often; every 7500 miles, at a bare minimum.

I know it's a lot.... some of this I have personally run into and others I've seen others run into.

Bottom line is to be "proactive"

Remember, you are doubling the amount of boost from 8-9psi to around 18psi.

You are adding around 130 hp & 200# pounds of torque. This puts a lot of strain on older components. ALWAYS keep that in mind.

question are the NGK one step colder spark plugs pre gapped at .022 or do I have to get it gapped

[IllSic_Design]

Originally Posted by dyllan12

question are the NGK one step colder spark plugs pre gapped at .022 or do I have to get it gapped

You need to gap them yourself