[studio54]

Hi,

I just towed my car.

I was driving on a high way like road, and made a WOT 2nd to 3rd and then at shifting to 3rd no power (at the end of 2nd it kinda bogged down at 6000 rpm), i was thinking something like popped off (like chargepipe or some hose like FMIC or anything else), but when i watched into my mirror i seen a very big big big blue smoke fog and an awful odor. I drove 300 meters without pushing the pedal or at minimum and parked the car. I oppened the hood and it was smoking blue from the turbos side)

I think my turbos (one or two) are shots.

The only thing unusual before it happened i noticed is that my exhaust made some isolated loud backfire 30 minutes ago at let off, but not like regular pops immediately at let off, more like 5 seconds or more after let off, it just poped loud once, it happened 3 or 4 times, i thought it was it was weird at the time. (Injector ? can it lead to a turbo failure ?)

The set up of the car is MHD Stage 2+ V9 map 95 RON, VRSF FMIC, Wagner catless DP, and ER chargepipe, that's it. Everything else is stock, airbox, diverter valves..... I still have mid cat, can they be in cause because plugged or backpressure?

Turbos are 1 year old, and i drove like 6000 kilometers without any problem.. but it is not a lot !

Any hints about what could happened ? bad install ? bad turbos (mitsubishis OEM)?

I hope nothing else beside turbos got broken, but now car went towed into a garage.

Motor starts with no problem.

Any advice appreciated.

[Sgop335]

Sorry bud...
codes?
Blue smoke is burning oil....

[feuer]

Probably blown turbo seal but I don’t think we can diagnose this issue remotely. If you aren’t mechanically inclined take it to competent mechanic you can trust

[studio54]

Thank you for your answers, no code at all, not even a dashboard light, but i stopped the car really quickly so i am pretty sure the DME didn't even have time to pop an alert or any code. Usually it takes some seconds of a WOT with underboost for the DME to trigger a 30FF code.

I am really surprised cause both turbos were changed a year ago, with only 6000 kilometers (hmm it's like 3000 miles, drove the car every week end), so i may not blame a bad install, most likely bad turbos.... or something made them went bad, like bad midcats ? or bad injectors (but is it possible?) ?

[_N54]

If you're inclined just pull off your down-pipes and see if there's oil. Might be a good time to upgrade

[studio54]

Originally Posted by ///S58

If you're inclined just pull off your down-pipes and see if there's oil. Might be a good time to upgrade

I am not i have no lift (i make myself some stuff like oil change and things like that) ... I made the mistake to buy turbos in germany by myself to get them cheaper (mitsubishis) + install kit and made them installed by an indy with no guarantee to make it cheaper too... too many third parties.... i will see i can take them to a refund or even a replace (to sell them online), BUT now i will do things good like parts + install in the same garage (if it's only turbo, i hope), that know that the car is not stock with a tune, so if it has an early problem like that, it will be taken in guarantee (at least parts).....

[feuer]

You don't need a lift to inspect, just take the down pipes off, the oily one will tell you which turbo failed. Is crazy that both failed at once so probably is just one. I know they are recently replaced but parts can fail at any point. Also, a lot of fake parts. You don't know if you bough original Mitsubishi turbos, and you also don't know if the shop installed those turbos either.

[Sgop335]

Yep the turbos may not be genuine. Or where they rebuilt?
I got turbos replaced on my 335i (4yrs ) and on my 535i a year ago, both new genuine Mitsubishi.

[studio54]

Originally Posted by feuer

You don't need a lift to inspect, just take the down pipes off, the oily one will tell you which turbo failed. Is crazy that both failed at once so probably is just one. I know they are recently replaced but parts can fail at any point. Also, a lot of fake parts. You don't know if you bough original Mitsubishi turbos, and you also don't know if the shop installed those turbos either.

I didn't want to inspect it on the side of the road, so i got the car towed, but towing it to a my place to inspect by myself, then paying tow again to tow it to a garage anyway was not an option for me (i am not inclined enough to a turbo replace by myself).

Turbos were bought at "turbotechnik-altmark" in Germany. When installed, the indie gave me old turbos back, and i inspected new ones with a light and it seemed the same i ordered, so i am not too paranoid that they didn't really installed my turbos.

Yes indeed, probably only one turbo, garage inspected very rapidly the car today and seen a leaky oil line which can explain a one turbo failure, they did not make anything else for the moment than a visual inspection.

I am bit concerned about the "only one turbo" thing, because i already drove the car with only one turbo working ( and it still had some boost and power then pop a 3100/30FF if you WOT some seconds..

Maybe DME disabled turbo operation anyway without popping anything (just after shifting to 3rd MHD, realising something was happening, boost gauge showed 0.5 psi max at full throttle... only one turbo working should have showed more ?? )

[studio54]

Originally Posted by Sgop335

Yep the turbos may not be genuine. Or where they rebuilt?
I got turbos replaced on my 335i (4yrs ) and on my 535i a year ago, both new genuine Mitsubishi.

No, brand new, mitsubishis, i have no trust issue with turbotechnik altmark about the fact it's genuine but a fabric default can happen, even with big brands.

For the moment, it seems related to a oil line : bad one/bad install/forgotten gasket for this line, i will know more when they really start to work on the car.

[feuer]

2 sec + with 2psi discrepancy (what is the demand and what turbos can make) would trigger limp mode 3100 with 30ff and which point DME would open the wastegates so won’t make boos at all to prevent more damage. The oil leaking is a problem. Also is dangerous. Driving around with 3100/30ff is ok to take it to shop, or back home.

[studio54]

Originally Posted by feuer

2 sec + with 2psi discrepancy (what is the demand and what turbos can make) would trigger limp mode 3100 with 30ff and which point DME would open the wastegates so won’t make boos at all to prevent more damage. The oil leaking is a problem. Also is dangerous. Driving around with 3100/30ff is ok to take it to shop, or back home.

Ok thanks, honnestly evertything happened so fast that i don't know if i continued to accelerate more than 2 seconds when i realized i had no power anymore, i will update when i know more.