[tyupix]

Hi All,

I have a 2009 e92 330i with zf6hp transmission.

After engine is started, car drives well as well shifts are smooth until I stop e.g. at red light. If i’m on break for about a minute, after releasing the break the car doesnt start rolling, the transmission kicks hard. Every other gear is smooth. If i stop at the red light and put the gear in N, after a minute back to D, the car starts moving very smoothly, also shifts are nice. The problem only appears if i step on the break for about a minute and the gear selector is in D. After engine (transmission) oil is warmed, the problem doesnt occure.

I logged some date with testo and realised that after stepping on break for long time, the transmission gear goes to 0, after releasing to 1.

I have already changed the transmission oil and filter, also checked for error code and there wasn’t any.

Could you help me please what can be the root cause and how to go on with the problem solving?

Thank you very much in advance.

[E92William]

This is a common issue with the zf6. I would first go and replace the valve body seals. If that doesn't fix it you'll need to do the solenoids. Usually it isn't this severe though. Any codes?

[Mantraxalos]

We had a similar issue with my friend's Z4 and 6hp trans. We changed the filter with a new ZF one and refilled it with Liquimoly 1800 ATF.
We followed the refill procedure exactly. It shifts MUCH better now. His zed has about 131k mi on it.

[tyupix]

Originally Posted by E92William

This is a common issue with the zf6. I would first go and replace the valve body seals. If that doesn't fix it you'll need to do the solenoids. Usually it isn't this severe though. Any codes?

I don't have any error codes. Had this issue before and after oil change also. Oil and filter is changed with OEM parts (ZF).

[Mantraxalos]

I guess I missed the part about you changing the fluid/filter already.
I found this video for the seals if it helps you.

[yulliyan]

Originally Posted by tyupix

Hi All,

I have a 2009 e92 330i with zf6hp transmission.

After engine is started, car drives well as well shifts are smooth until I stop e.g. at red light. If i’m on break for about a minute, after releasing the break the car doesnt start rolling, the transmission kicks hard. Every other gear is smooth. If i stop at the red light and put the gear in N, after a minute back to D, the car starts moving very smoothly, also shifts are nice. The problem only appears if i step on the break for about a minute and the gear selector is in D. After engine (transmission) oil is warmed, the problem doesnt occure.

I logged some date with testo and realised that after stepping on break for long time, the transmission gear goes to 0, after releasing to 1.

I have already changed the transmission oil and filter, also checked for error code and there wasn’t any.

Could you help me please what can be the root cause and how to go on with the problem solving?

Thank you very much in advance.

Hi.
I have the same problem. When the car is cold and when i hold it on the brake for a long time, i feel a kick.

How did you fix this problem?

[mainbearing]

Low fluid level is the first thing that comes to mind.

Also there are plastic and rubber seals that fail, causing pressure loss that could result in the same thing.

Post #12 in https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1911024

You should check these seals because they are known to fail. I use genuine ZF parts:
https://www.thectsc.com/products/sea...21-243-43.html

Originally Posted by tyupix

After engine (transmission) oil is warmed, the problem doesnt occure.

[yulliyan]

Thank a lot for this information.

[yulliyan]

Ok guys.
I change this ZF plastic parts, oil and filter... but the car have the same issue.
I don't know where is the problem (I have the same problem. When the car is cold and when i hold it on the brake for a long time, i feel a kick.). i don't have any error code or anything else. Please help with your opinion.
Thanks!

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by yulliyan

Ok guys.
I change this ZF plastic parts, oil and filter... but the car have the same issue.
I don't know where is the problem (I have the same problem. When the car is cold and when i hold it on the brake for a long time, i feel a kick.). i don't have any error code or anything else. Please help with your opinion.
Thanks!

You changed the round sleeve seas, and the double D seal? Did you also change the shift solenoids out? If not, I would do that next. Also, did you follow the ZF procedure for filling the trans back up with fluid? It needs to be done at a certain temperature, and you need to run through the gears a few times before topping it off.

[yulliyan]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

You changed the round sleeve seas, and the double D seal? Did you also change the shift solenoids out? If not, I would do that next. Also, did you follow the ZF procedure for filling the trans back up with fluid? It needs to be done at a certain temperature, and you need to run through the gears a few times before topping it off.

Yes. My mechanic change this set -
And oil is change correctly.

[colorado.e9x]

As everyone else has mentioned- replace all seals and tranny pan (built in filter) as well as a full fluid flush. Check Vehicular DIYs video on doing that, he does a great explanation for it especially the fluid fill procedure.

When I did mine not only was my fluid a liter low, it looked worse than sewer water. It was black and you couldn't even see 1mm below the surface. The original seals had also shrunk and become stiff.

After doing all that, my transmission was much happier. The shifts had smoothened out, the 1-2 and 2-3 clunk were reduced, and it almost completely got rid of my highway limp mode issue. Not quite though- so I'm replacing it

[yulliyan]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

As everyone else has mentioned- replace all seals and tranny pan (built in filter) as well as a full fluid flush. Check Vehicular DIYs video on doing that, he does a great explanation for it especially the fluid fill procedure.

When I did mine not only was my fluid a liter low, it looked worse than sewer water. It was black and you couldn't even see 1mm below the surface. The original seals had also shrunk and become stiff.

After doing all that, my transmission was much happier. The shifts had smoothened out, the 1-2 and 2-3 clunk were reduced, and it almost completely got rid of my highway limp mode issue. Not quite though- so I'm replacing it

Yes mate. Everything is make it. Shifting is smoothed... but the kicking after stop for 30 seconds - 1 minute is there.

[Nando_e90]

After changing fluid I understand that it's necessary to reset the adaptation values and to perform the relearn procedure. I once reset the values and didn't performed the relearn process and transmission was not ok. After reseting again and inmediatly doing the relearn process, transmission was smooth again.

Maybe OP shoud try that (if not performed already).

[yulliyan]

Originally Posted by Nando_e90

After changing fluid I understand that it's necessary to reset the adaptation values and to perform the relearn procedure. I once reset the values and didn't performed the relearn process and transmission was not ok. After reseting again and inmediatly doing the relearn process, transmission was smooth again.

Maybe OP shoud try that (if not performed already).

We reset the adaptations values and I make learning process immediately after this.

[mainbearing]

If the seals and solenoids have been changed and the transmission still does this when COLD (but works properly when WARM), maybe there is still a pressure leak somewhere? I am not sure.

Clutch E bushing wear and pressure leak there is another common problem when transmission fluid is neglected, but that will show up with other gears (4-5-6??) and not when braked?

[lnxguy]

Originally Posted by Nando_e90

After changing fluid I understand that it's necessary to reset the adaptation values and to perform the relearn procedure. I once reset the values and didn't performed the relearn process and transmission was not ok. After reseting again and inmediatly doing the relearn process, transmission was smooth again.

Maybe OP shoud try that (if not performed already).

Resetting adaptations with a fluid/filter change is a bad idea. This is not recommended. You're only resetting adaptations after major work (solenoids, valve body, etc)

[yulliyan]

Originally Posted by mainbearing

If the seals and solenoids have been changed and the transmission still does this when COLD (but works properly when WARM), maybe there is still a pressure leak somewhere? I am not sure.

Clutch E bushing wear and pressure leak there is another common problem when transmission fluid is neglected, but that will show up with other gears (4-5-6??) and not when braked?

We don’t change solenoids, only the seals.
Maybe we search the problem there.

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by lnxguy

Resetting adaptations with a fluid/filter change is a bad idea. This is not recommended. You're only resetting adaptations after major work (solenoids, valve body, etc)

I've been told by multiple ZF techs, and repair shops that specialize in the ZF transmissions that you ONLY should reset adaptations if you changes internal hard parts like clutches (basically a full rebuild). For things like solenoids, and valve bodies.....just leave it alone, the transmissions will adjust the adaptions on its' own.

When I did my solenoids, I didn't reset the adaptations......and as I drove the car I checked the clutch times and pressures. And sure enough, yep, the transmission adjusts them on it's own. More damage can be caused than good if you reset them.


Also....for people having transmissions issues, a bad/sticky shift solenoid can cause all kinds of shifting/slipping issues. Replace them while you have the valve body off when you are replacing the sleeve and D seals.

[Nando_e90]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

I've been told by multiple ZF techs, and repair shops that specialize in the ZF transmissions that you ONLY should reset adaptations if you changes internal hard parts like clutches (basically a full rebuild). For things like solenoids, and valve bodies.....just leave it alone, the transmissions will adjust the adaptions on its' own.

Good to know, because is not an easy task if there isn't a nearby highway suitable for the job.

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by Nando_e90

Good to know, because is not an easy task if there isn't a nearby highway suitable for the job.

Exactly.....if you look at the "relearn" procedure that you are supposed to do.....it's a big undertaking. Miles of driving at different speeds, slowing down, different gears, etc, etc, etc....you need pretty much miles of road with no other cars on it to do the procedure.

.....and unless you do a full rebuild, you don't need to reset them...so why do it? It's just harder on the transmission, and a royal pain in the butt.

I don't know how many people I've seen on the FB forums posting stuff like "just changed my fluid and filter, and reset my adaptations....no my car isn't want to shift right....or throws up all kinds of transmission fault errors". Just because you can, doesn't mean you should

Here is the relearn procedure.......

[yulliyan]

What do you thing about Neutral Idle Control (NIC). It’s better to be On or Off?