[NoGuru]

I have made Active cooling for my EKPM3. What I mean by that is I have installed Heat sinks and a fan. The first one I made I just slapped a fan on the cover and called it good. There is not much space so the fan could rub or just not turn at all if it hits the seat.
I just made a new revision but I haven't installed it yet. Just want to show you guys and see if there is any interest in buying these if I made more?

FYI, I am running a Walbro 535 (Hellcat Fuel pump) and I have a Walbro 450 on a 15psi Hobbs switch and Port injection on the Stock EKPM3 and stock HPFP.

Here are some pics and a video.

[feuer]

Amazing! Can you make more? I assume fellow members would want this!

[NoGuru]

Originally Posted by feuer

Amazing! Can you make more? I assume fellow members would want this!

Yeah I could potentially make a lot but it could take me a while to get all the supplies.
I could probably code them to any car needed as well just have not made it that far yet.
If anyone is interested post here and I will get a list going. I think I have around $80 in material so maybe $100 for one coded for your car?

[Smgs1992]

What kind of long term testing have you done? Any before and after temps of the EKP?

[NoGuru]

Originally Posted by Smgs1992

What kind of long term testing have you done? Any before and after temps of the EKP?

No long term testing but I am not building the EKP, I am modifying it.

As far as testing, I have it in my car like I said, running a Walbro 535 and Walbro 450.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by NoGuru

Yeah I could potentially make a lot but it could take me a while to get all the supplies.
I could probably code them to any car needed as well just have not made it that far yet.
If anyone is interested post here and I will get a list going. I think I have around $80 in material so maybe $100 for one coded for your car?

I have replaced EKP without coding and all work good. Why it needs to be coded?

[NoGuru]

Originally Posted by feuer

I have replaced EKP without coding and all work good. Why it needs to be coded?

It probably doesn't but they same EKP is used in dozens of models so just to be on the safe side it should be.

[BSM n54iS]

You're running dual 450 and 525? Is the EKP overheating with just the stage 2 450 lpfp? I'm interested, I assume all 335is have the EKPM3 right?

[NoGuru]

Originally Posted by BdSM n54iS

You're running dual 450 and 525? Is the EKP overheating with just the stage 2 450 lpfp? I'm interested, I assume all 335is have the EKPM3 right?

All IS's should be running EKPM3 but that is not always the best choice in EKP's. We have been doing some testing and the M2 can handle more current.
The M3 was designed to be cheaper to manufacture. Overall I would say no need to change them out unless it is fried.

I am running One Walbro 535 as my Primary and one 450 as my secondary on a 15psi HOBBS switch. I am not getting any overheating even after many Half mile races this past August.

I do get a slight long crank after the car has been running for a while but I think that I need to replace my fuel regulator.

[135]

Active and passive cooling on the EKP is a pretty good idea - I also saw a couple threads on the other forum which have a lot of useful information and technical detail.

The EKP can overheat with a Stage 2 or higher fuel pump due to the higher current draw. Sometimes, the EKP will have overheated far too often, in which case, adding cooling won't be sufficient. It may take years of use of an aftermarket fuel pump for this scenario to occur.
The symptoms of a failing/failed EKP will be that, while driving along, all of a sudden the "car on hoist/lift/ramp" dash light will illuminate and the the car will cut out and roll to a stop (this can be extremely dangerous, depending on the location, traffic and speed!). Trying to start the car will result in endless cranking (and possibly eventually a flat battery). You can wait (30min or more) for the EKP to cool down and then the car might start to get you home. If you were logging at the time, you would see the LPFP pressure drops to zero about half a second before the HPFP pressure also drops to zero.

The "car on hoist/lift/ramp" (yellow service) warning/dash light for the EKP (Source: https://www.drivingtesttips.biz/dash...ing-light.html):
Code 216
- Fuel pump fault! Drive moderately
- Fuel pump. Fuel pump fault. Engine may stall.
- Possible reduction in engine power. Drive moderately! Have the problem checked by the nearest BMW Service.
Code 309
- Fuel pump! Fuel pump malfunction. Possible to continue journey. Have the problem checked by the nearest BMW Service.

If you're experiencing this issue over and over (on different days), then a replacement unit will be required (which could then be cooled as a preventative measure).

Depending on your fueling setup, you might consider the BPM4 fuel pump control module but, at USD $650, it's pricey, especially when a secondhand EKP can be bought for less than USD $50.

Coding may not be necessary on secondhand EKP units, especially if they came out of the same type of car (e.g. N54-powered) and possibly if it came out of a non-N54 car. I'm fairly certain new EKP units will need to be coded.

[lookalikehuuh]

I also have an actively cooled EKPM, but I have EKPM2, I was experiencing codes for high current draw after upgrading to DIY Walbro 450. I have been running the setup for about 6 months without any further issues or overheating problems.

Not sure if NoGuru did this but I also replaced the stock thermal transfer pad (pink thing behind the board) with better computer thermal pads since it appears that OE designed the back of the unit to be used as a heatsink. I added a couple of extra heatsinks internally to the choke the long skinny chip at the bottom and I did also end up placing some thermal paste on the bottom of the steel factory heatsink to help further dissipate heat.

I can share pics of my setup if anyone is interested.

[eastsidaz]

Originally Posted by lookalikehuuh

I also have an actively cooled EKPM, but I have EKPM2, I was experiencing codes for high current draw after upgrading to DIY Walbro 450. I have been running the setup for about 6 months without any further issues or overheating problems.

Not sure if NoGuru did this but I also replaced the stock thermal transfer pad (pink thing behind the board) with better computer thermal pads since it appears that OE designed the back of the unit to be used as a heatsink. I added a couple of extra heatsinks internally to the choke the long skinny chip at the bottom and I did also end up placing some thermal paste on the bottom of the steel factory heatsink to help further dissipate heat.

I can share pics of my setup if anyone is interested.

Indeed! At minimum upgrading the thermal pad is a must. Do you mean you added thermal paste between the ekp and the bracket?

Came across this video to give others a better idea on what needs to be done

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjrddhJbwfo

[lookalikehuuh]

Originally Posted by GovernUrMental

Indeed! At minimum upgrading the thermal pad is a must. Do you mean you added thermal paste between the ekp and the bracket?

Came across this video to give others a better idea on what needs to be done

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjrddhJbwfo

Yes exactly! I have the combination of this video and an active Noctua 40mm fan on top blowing air in to heatsinks like OP showed here. Works great!

[eastsidaz]

Originally Posted by lookalikehuuh

Yes exactly! I have the combination of this video and an active Noctua 40mm fan on top blowing air in to heatsinks like OP showed here. Works great!

Sounds like a plan.

[NoGuru]

Yeah, I replaced the thermal pad as well. I bought mine from Digikey that had a very high thermal transfer rating.

Edit: FYI the EKP2 is better in many ways over the EKP3 but not enough to change over if you have one or the other. The EKP3 was redesign to be cheaper to manufature.

[eastsidaz]

What thickness thermal pad is the ideal? 0.5mm or 1mm?

[lookalikehuuh]

Originally Posted by GovernUrMental

What thickness thermal pad is the ideal? 0.5mm or 1mm?

I used the 1mm pads on my version of it.

[NoGuru]

Here is the Thermal pad I used based on it's specs, https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...rKgHYAmIAugL5A

[1Bad335turbopsi]

Originally Posted by NoGuru

I have made Active cooling for my EKPM3. What I mean by that is I have installed Heat sinks and a fan. The first one I made I just slapped a fan on the cover and called it good. There is not much space so the fan could rub or just not turn at all if it hits the seat.
I just made a new revision but I haven't installed it yet. Just want to show you guys and see if there is any interest in buying these if I made more?

FYI, I am running a Walbro 535 (Hellcat Fuel pump) and I have a Walbro 450 on a 15psi Hobbs switch and Port injection on the Stock EKPM3 and stock HPFP.

Here are some pics and a video.

What power source is used to activate the fan?

[NoGuru]

The wires going to the fuel pump. I think it is the set that is twisted in the video but you can put a Multi Meter on them.

[boostd92]

Originally Posted by NoGuru

I have made Active cooling for my EKPM3. What I mean by that is I have installed Heat sinks and a fan. The first one I made I just slapped a fan on the cover and called it good. There is not much space so the fan could rub or just not turn at all if it hits the seat.
I just made a new revision but I haven't installed it yet. Just want to show you guys and see if there is any interest in buying these if I made more?

FYI, I am running a Walbro 535 (Hellcat Fuel pump) and I have a Walbro 450 on a 15psi Hobbs switch and Port injection on the Stock EKPM3 and stock HPFP.

Are you making these? I'd be interested but need one ASAP. I can probably do it myself, curious does the fan on the side fit under the seat, or do you have to modify the foam or anything? Link to the fan/heat sinks?

[TplBimm]

Originally Posted by 135

Active and passive cooling on the EKP is a pretty good idea - I also saw a couple threads on the other forum which have a lot of useful information and technical detail.

The EKP can overheat with a Stage 2 or higher fuel pump due to the higher current draw. Sometimes, the EKP will have overheated far too often, in which case, adding cooling won't be sufficient. It may take years of use of an aftermarket fuel pump for this scenario to occur.
The symptoms of a failing/failed EKP will be that, while driving along, all of a sudden the "car on hoist/lift/ramp" dash light will illuminate and the the car will cut out and roll to a stop (this can be extremely dangerous, depending on the location, traffic and speed!). Trying to start the car will result in endless cranking (and possibly eventually a flat battery). You can wait (30min or more) for the EKP to cool down and then the car might start to get you home. If you were logging at the time, you would see the LPFP pressure drops to zero about half a second before the HPFP pressure also drops to zero.

The "car on hoist/lift/ramp" (yellow service) warning/dash light for the EKP (Source: https://www.drivingtesttips.biz/dash...ing-light.html):
Code 216
- Fuel pump fault! Drive moderately
- Fuel pump. Fuel pump fault. Engine may stall.
- Possible reduction in engine power. Drive moderately! Have the problem checked by the nearest BMW Service.
Code 309
- Fuel pump! Fuel pump malfunction. Possible to continue journey. Have the problem checked by the nearest BMW Service.

If you're experiencing this issue over and over (on different days), then a replacement unit will be required (which could then be cooled as a preventative measure).

Depending on your fueling setup, you might consider the BPM4 fuel pump control module but, at USD $650, it's pricey, especially when a secondhand EKP can be bought for less than USD $50.

Coding may not be necessary on secondhand EKP units, especially if they came out of the same type of car (e.g. N54-powered) and possibly if it came out of a non-N54 car. I'm fairly certain new EKP units will need to be coded.

My EXACT issue RN! Will the thermal paste and pads fix my issue or should I just order a new one from good ole FCP? I have Protools so I can code a new one with no issue just trying to save $300+ if possible.