[rsc1]

Hope everyone is staying safe.

First of all, I'd like to say I am by no means an audio expert in any way. So if I make any mistakes or say something stupid, feel free to correct me (hopefully it'll prevent me from actually DOING something stupid). I enjoy listening to music a lot though, and spend a lot of time in my car so I like a good sound system.

After listening to the base audio (no amp, no tweeters) for a couple of months in my 2011 E92 328i, my ears decided it was time for an upgrade. I know there have been quite a few base audio upgrade threads, and I'd like to thank those people for documenting their builds as they've helped a lot. Having said that, none of those upgrades were within my budget (around $700-800). Hopefully this helps someone that has a similar budget.

After contacting Technic for a harness, he recommended this setup. It can all be bought for around $750-$800 total, and should be a considerable upgrade over the stock system.

Speakers - https://mbquart.com/qm200-3bmw/ (discontinued, but can still be found on eBay)
Amp - https://www.alpine.co.uk/p/Products/SingleView/MRV-F300
Harness - https://technicpnp.com/product/stereo-24-harness/

Then I ordered this wiring kit - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0_s00?ie=UTF8=
and the OEM tweeter pods - 51337184197 (L) and 51337184198 (R).

Front and woofers will be powered by the Alpine amp, rear speakers by the OEM HU (not replacing those). Also per Technic's recommendation, I'm not planning to recode to HiFi to get rid of the EQ (there seems to be some debate whether that would even be possible in my car). Setting the crossover to -6dB tweeter output should make the harsh tweeters sound fine.

Upon ordering this (it should all arrive next week, will post pics), I contacted some car audio shops, and asked them how much it would be to install everything. Most of them are coming back with a price of around $350-$500 for the component + amp install, which is pretty steep imo. After reading some of the other base audio upgrade builds (B33M3R, tmar) and watching a bunch of YouTube videos, I'm hoping I can do the install myself and save this money. I'd like to put the amp out of sight in the trunk and make everything look as factory as possible.


My question to you guys - please give me any advice you think will help me. Tools needed, things to watch out for with wiring, things to do or NOT to do, additional items I might need, etc. I've never done anything like this before, so it will most likely be a challenge, but a fun one. If you guys want I can keep you updated on the build as it progresses. Any help is greatly appreciated.

[ctuna]

If you can put together a home entertainment system and you
have some rudimentary idea of how electricity works and you are
not intimidated by doing simple electrical and mechanical things
you can do this.

The hardest part is removing the door panels and its not all that
hard on these cars. Next hardest part installing the underseats.
Running power wires to the battery.

Install procedures
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...9#post24104169
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ght=door+wires
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=911595
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...9&postcount=19
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=571803
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ht=amp+install

http://www.bimmerdiy.com/dir/e90
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...DIY+door+panel
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-Panel-Removal
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=553388
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...hlight=speaker
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=635672

https://www.e90post.com/forums/attac...3&d=1329017429

You can recode but it requires and ICOM cable .
Also that would drop the volume on the rear speakers a lot if
you are not amping them.

[rsc1]

Originally Posted by ctuna

I you can put together a home entertainment system and you
have some rudimentary idea of how electricity works and you are
not intimidated by doing simple electrical and mechanical things
you can do this.

The hardest part is removing the door panels and its no all this
hard on these cars. Nest hardest part installing the underseats.
Running power wires to the battery.

Install procedures
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...9#post24104169
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ght=door+wires
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=911595
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...9&postcount=19
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=571803
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ht=amp+install

http://www.bimmerdiy.com/dir/e90
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...DIY+door+panel
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-Panel-Removal
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=553388
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...hlight=speaker
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=635672

https://www.e90post.com/forums/attac...3&d=1329017429

You can recode but it requires and ICOM cable .
Also that would drop the volume on the rear speakers a lot if
you are not amping them.

ctuna, thanks for your help. That's what I was hoping for, I'm not an expert on electricity and wiring but it doesn't intimidate me so it should be fine. I watched the BSW video before and it seems like removing the door panels should be relatively easy. The MB Quart speakers actually arrived in the meantime and quality looks very nice, now just waiting for the amp and harness.

From what I heard the under-seat woofers are glued into their enclosures, so they might be a bit of a challenge to get out without a heatgun. Any tips on getting these out without breaking them? Also do I need any additional pins/wiring/harnesses apart from the stuff I already bought?

[ctuna]

I didn't have the glued under seats. Comments on here generally
say you have to Gorilla it although I don't like that approach.

Technic Harness should take care of the split between the front doors and
floors in a 2011. I would get a cheap volt/ohmeter if you don't have one
and learn to use it . So you can check connections and make sure nothing
is shorted before powering up.

[rsc1]

By gorilla it I'm guessing you mean use lots of force until they come out? And will pick up a voltmeter, thanks for the tip. Also - what's the best way to mount the amp? Since there's no bracket for it

[ctuna]

The same holes are still in the chassis(I think). Don't know what size they
(probably 8 or 10 mm)
are but if you look in my e91 example it shows the amp mounted to a board.
There is a picture of where the Hi Fi and or Logic 7 amp normally goes.
You could use Industrial Velcro mount it to a board or directly to a chassis.

You have to be sure it can breath though.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/attac...3&d=1329017429

[ptpending]

300 is quite decent price for e92 install
i've installed individual audio (13 speakers) instead hifi in e92 and spent almost 20 hours and tired a little
so if the shop worked on bmw before it is more wise to ask them to do
but they should draw a scheme to show that they understand bmw audio system
the main culprits with e92/e93
1. since there is no rear door it is wise to remove front seats
doing this be careful with door plastic sill, seat is heavy
2. the routing of the cable to door harnesses, there not so much room under trims
3. headunit can be scratched by gearbox shaft during removal

[rsc1]

Originally Posted by ctuna

The same holes are still in the chassis(I think). Don't know what size they
(probably 8 or 10 mm)
are but if you look in my e91 example it shows the amp mounted to a board.
There is a picture of where the Hi Fi and or Logic 7 amp normally goes.
You could use Industrial Velcro mount it to a board or directly to a chassis.

You have to be sure it can breath though.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/attac...3&d=1329017429

Any particular type of material that's best for the board? And how do I make sure it can breathe since it will be mounted below a panel in the trunk?

Originally Posted by ptpending

300 is quite decent price for e92 install
i've installed individual audio (13 speakers) instead hifi in e92 and spent almost 20 hours and tired a little
so if the shop worked on bmw before it is more wise to ask them to do
but they should draw a scheme to show that they understand bmw audio system
the main culprits with e92/e93
1. since there is no rear door it is wise to remove front seats
doing this be careful with door plastic sill, seat is heavy
2. the routing of the cable to door harnesses, there not so much room under trims
3. headunit can be scratched by gearbox shaft during removal

Thanks for the advice. 350 was the lowest price I got and that was from a car shop that didn't have great reviews so I was a little hesitant. Also keep in mind I only have 6 speakers to replace..hopefully it won't take me 20 hours

[ctuna]

That is the factory location and there are vents in that area.
If it's mounted to a board you could put in on standoff's
My xd 600 is mounted to a board with no standoff's it's
been there for years with no problems.

There are a lot of hack installer's . At this point you probably understand
the system better than they do. You can take your time and do a good
job. They will probably want to throw it in as fast as they can .
A quality install usually cost around 500 plus at a pro shop.
If you can do it in steps that will help .
Install and verify amp with factory speakers just don't turn it up to high.
Then do doors and verify then do floors and verify.

[rsc1]

Good to know, thanks. And that's what I figured too, if I'm going to let a shop do it I don't want it to be a bunch of hacks that's why I'd rather do it myself.

Any recommendations on the LPF and HPF settings for the amp for my speaker setup?

[ctuna]

around 180 for most of the aftermarket speakers.

[uzzellm]

Hi. New here so apologies if it’s been brought up before. I’m trying to install aftermarket subwoofers (underseat) in my E92 but the new speakers have a 2 pin terminal rather than the factory 4 pin socket.
Any ideas on what cable would connect them? Guessing some kind of spade connection for the 2 pin terminal.

[ctuna]

Cars made before a certain date make the parallel connection between the doors
and floors in the Door Sill.
The Alpine kit official install procedure describe where this connection
is in detail.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...1qePRZCIR7aEzz

see page 10

If you have the 4 pin connection the Technic jumper in his kits take care of the split.
It's important you understand what's happening speakers mostly only have two terminal
inputs except for dual coil subs. The fact there are 4 wires is one set of two is and and Input
from the Head Unit or Amp. The other set of wires run's back to the doors.

If you are trying to add better speakers in a Base system with no amp there is a good chance
it won't work very well or at all.

[rsc1]

Originally Posted by ctuna

around 180 for most of the aftermarket speakers.

Just to verify, you're saying 180Hz LPF for the under-seats and 180Hz HPF for the midranges? Isn't that a little high for the woofers?

[ctuna]

It actually may be a little low.
Underseats are not really Subs unless you by Earthquakes.
They are more like midbass and if you like a flat eq you need the
underseats do as much as they can to bridge the gap to the 4
inch door speakers.
Those tiny 4 inch speaker have a hard time going very low.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...=jl+xd+600%2F6

Entry 2 in the above shows my settings.

[rsc1]

Makes sense, thanks. From your pic, am I correct in saying you have your woofer LPF at about 180Hz but midrange HPF at around 200Hz, why the gap? Just to make sure you're not straining the midranges? I'm guessing for you the setup is a little different as you have different brand speakers

[ctuna]

You can play with those settings a little to get something that
is pleasing to you . It won't blow anything up . The gains are what
you want be careful with depending on the power of the amp and
the wattage of the speakers.
If you see those tapes with the hash marks that is the way it came
in the kit . I assume the maker of the kit knew how to set it up.

[Abluh9]

Quick question for you all since this seems to be related-ish does anyone know why after my cic retrofit the aux is not working.

[ctuna]

most likely programming.
Whenever you change a module the factory setting's must be restored
or modified so things can talk and play with one another.
Although you are thread hi jacking.
first entry in this thread is rsc1 i think
And it's not related.

[rsc1]

For people that are interested - I got everything installed and it's a huge upgrade over stock. the MB Quarts sound incredibly clean for the price and I can definitely recommend this setup. The new fronts together with the added tweeters make for a balanced and crisp sound which isn't too harsh (crossovers set to -6dB).

Only thing I am a little bit underwhelmed by is the under-seat woofers. Since I went from 6.5" to 8" I was expecting a considerable improvement in low frequencies, and while this is definitely the case in midbass (which is very fast and punchy) it's missing a little bit of low-down power. It almost sounds like there is a high pass filter on the woofers at around 100hz and they won't really go any lower, unless you really crank up the volume.

I'm hoping part of this is due to the woofers having to break in a little more (only have about 5-6 hours of listening in them). Or maybe it's just my ears wanting more now that the whole system is improved...might need to go sub shopping now.

[E92x7z]

I have the same speakers under the seat i say only one 75 W RMS is too low for this mid bass they need 100W minimum and LPF 120 ... to instruction book recommend 130 .. but 120 is a better

[ctuna]

I have Jehnert under seats driven by a JL 600/6 and they get plenty
loud and deliver clean accurate Midbass and Bass . I am not the type
that believes in Panel Rattling Bass Car Farts though. I low pass them
at 180 which does not effect how low they play but also allows them
to contribute to the midbass and mid frequency's.
Jl 600/6 is 75 watts rms on all channels at 4 ohm's