[Mr. 5]

I take no responsibility for what you do with your car. What you do is at your own risk!
Make sure you have an understanding of how a turbo works before you start adjusting everything!

If you are local and do not feel comfortable performing this work then you can contact me to set something up.

Make sure that the ticking isn't happening because you are using a lagfix map with a tune. Lagfix maps tend to rattle. Only perform this if the ticking is happening when the ECU is at the stock configuration.

As some of you know, I've had some problems with my wastegates rattling.
I was one of the first to have this issue.
If you don't know about this issue then read the link down below and look at the pictures. It will help you understand this issue.
I started this thread once I found what I thought was the issue but then I realized that it had nothing to do with gaps where I thought.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=132037

I closed that thread because of a couple reasons:
1. If you want it done professionally and you don't care about the extra lag and the less power with tunes then you need to take it into the dealer and have them fix it.
2. This really is a solution to the problem. In most (if not all) cases that I know, the wastegate ticking is caused from the rear wastegate ticking. The front one is perfectly fine.

First off, how is everything working?
When you start the car with a pre 29.2 program, the rear wastegate shuts at idle to decrease some of the lag.
The solenoid is controlled electronically to control the actuator with a vacuum. This is why there is a vacuum line going from the solenoid to the actuator.
When the actuator is being controlled with a vacuum, the actuator rod gets sucked into the actuator, which pulls the wastegate closed.
The ticking is the sound of the wastegate rattling against the seal if there is not enough pressure keeping it closed.

Why does 29.2 solve the issue most of the time?
Because with this program, when you start the car up, the rear wastegate is not closed anymore. It is open. Therefore, there is nothing to rattle against any seal.

Here is the issue:
The Actuator Rod is loosening after time. When the rod loosens, the length of the rod increases and increases, eventually making the wastegate not seal properly. Since there eventually becomes little to no pressure against the seal, then the wastegate rattles against the seal, causing the ticking sound.

I took my car to the dealer and they told me that in order to fix the problem, they would need to first update the program to the newest software before they touch the wastegates. The dealer does not adjust the actuators. They are told to replace the actuators with brand new ones and then adjust the new ones.
So, because of this, I refused the service.

Let's think about how to fix this:
There is the one 10mm nut, and there is a groove on the actuator rod, which is meant for a wrench to adjust.
I figured, why I can’t I do this?

The first thing you need to do is loosen the 10mm nut.
Second, you need to find a wrench that's small enough to fit in the groove of the rod. I actually made one using a regular piece of scrap metal in the garage and a dremel to cut a groove in it since I don't have tools that small.
Once you have the tool, tighten the rod a couple revolutions (this is subjective because some ticking could be worse than others). Of course, you don't want to tighten the rod up that much since the wastegates still need to open.

Seriously, for those out there that never ever wants the new program because of the lag and all the crap that goes with it, this really is an easy solution for you to do if you are somewhat handy.

I take no responsibility for what you do with your car. What you do is at your own risk!
Make sure you have an understanding of how a turbo works before you start adjusting everything!

[M.A.C.K.]

I am glad to hear that 29.2+ def fixes this issue..........

[Mr. 5]

Just to add,
I did do this to my car and it worked perfectly.
I tightened the rod aproximately 2.5 revolutions.

[imoksoami]

Originally Posted by M.A.C.K.

I am glad to hear that 29.2+ def fixes this issue..........

It also reduces low end performance...

[imoksoami]

Mr 5

well done.

[ericosaur]

Hardcore. nice.

[M.A.C.K.]

Originally Posted by imoksoami

It also reduces low end performance...

I dont have to really worry about low end performance with my setup


JB3 1.1V, RR catless DPs, AFE dual cone intake, Code 3 Spearco FMIC......usually running 100 octane.......

[Mid_West]

Good find! It sounds similar to the early days of a 'valve job'.

With that said, and being that it is such an easy adjustment, BMW didnt think of this in the first place. It is, after all, an adjustable setting. I would think that the best way to adjust it would be to take the exhaust off and use some sort of feeler gauge while making the adjustment.

[phattbam]

where are the wastegates located?

[oddjob2021]

wowowowowwowow i love you Mr. 5.... lol... im going to try this... dam man what a fix!

[Bubbles]

Be careful fellas. I hate to crash the party, but this is not a long term solution.

I suspect you may be required to continually "adjust" the wastegate to keep up with the failing actuator and eventually you'll run out of thread.

However, it is a good temporary solution.

[1clean335i]

This does work for those that are wondering.

[David1]

Did you do this on the car and if so from the top or bottom and I assume you turn the rod clockwise? I can't get the jam nut loose from the top.

[5soko]

i actually did this to my friends car, like a tie-rod end. mentioned it a few times aswell but if your gonna adjust your own, take the DP off to see if the wastegate is now opening enough, since you can run into serious problems. Just me. p.s. dont leave any tell tale marks on any of the stuff adjusting, BMW will void you into next year if they do see it, and if somethign fails down the road

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by Bubbles

Be careful fellas. I hate to crash the party, but this is not a long term solution.

I suspect you may be required to continually "adjust" the wastegate to keep up with the failing actuator and eventually you'll run out of thread.

However, it is a good temporary solution.

I disagree with this.
The reason that was told to me by a very knowledgable BMW technician (just in case you're reading the thread )is that the rod actually loosens over time by itself.
So, I will bet you that when my car starts ticking again, it will be close to the same position where it was before I adjusted it.

Also, just to let you guys know, I drove to work this morning and the wastegates are working perfectly!
Just before I went into work, I stopped at the gas station and reved it a couple times just so I can hear just the engine.

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by David1

Did you do this on the car and if so from the top or bottom and I assume you turn the rod clockwise? I can't get the jam nut loose from the top.

I did it with absolutely no problems from the top, and it took me about 35 minutes.
Just make sure that your engine is cold since you will seriosuly fry your left arm on the exhaust side.

Originally Posted by 5soko335i

i actually did this to my friends car, like a tie-rod end. mentioned it a few times aswell but if your gonna adjust your own, take the DP off to see if the wastegate is now opening enough, since you can run into serious problems. Just me. p.s. dont leave any tell tale marks on any of the stuff adjusting, BMW will void you into next year if they do see it, and if somethign fails down the road

This is very true. Make sure you don't strip anything or do any sloppy work.
As far as taking the DPs off just to do this?... I wouldn't go that far but if you are very worried about everything then it won't hurt.
The wastegate travels quite a bit before it closes.
It doesn't need to open that much until the exhaust will take the path of least resisteance and go through the hole.

Honesly, I probably went a little too far with my 2.5 rotations, but I just wanted to be sure.
There's nothing wrong with tightening it a bit, start your car and listen.
If you still hear the sound then wait for it to cool down and do it again.
When you are in this process, the 10mm nut doesn't have to be tightened until the process is complete.

[RedGT3]

How's your boost press now?

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by fll335

How's your boost press now?

It's exactly the same.
I wasn't loosing boost before because once pressure builds up, the wastegate gets pushed to the seal since the pressure inside is so high.

This is why you do not hear the ticking under acceleration.
If you do hear it under acceleration, then you have another problem.

[techforge]

Originally Posted by M.A.C.K.

I am glad to hear that 29.2+ def fixes this issue..........

This is how to fix it WITHOUT 29.2 that causes other problems.

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

I disagree with this.
The reason that was told to me by a very knowledgable BMW technician (just in case you're reading the thread )is that the rod actually loosens over time by itself.
So, I will bet you that when my car starts ticking again, it will be close to the same position where it was before I adjusted it.

Also, just to let you guys know, I drove to work this morning and the wastegates are working perfectly!
Just before I went into work, I stopped at the gas station and reved it a couple times just so I can hear just the engine.

I agree this could be a fix for those whose actuators aren't failing, but if your actuator is failing (does not have the power to close the wastegate), I don't see how this is anything but a temporary fix.

[GGreek5]

I hear ticking when I start the car in the morning. If I rev it, it goes away, but at idle I hear it. Its pretty distinct. Could this be the wastegate rattle??

[RBBMWE46M3]

amazing post...now if they only made a wrench to fix the lag that came with v30.02