[aarongalve]

Start up car. It starts up normally. I go down the street for a while and then the car hiccups and starts to run like there is a missing cylinder. Plug in my phone and reading mhd I got all these codes at once. BTW new injectors. new coils, new sparkplugs. I'm running stage 2+ with all the fbo mods.
I'm thinking its the hpfp can I get some other opinions?

[aarongalve]

I also cleared the codes and it is running normally now but when I go past 3k-4k rpm it hiccups again. No codes reading on mhd.

[BSM n54iS]

O2 sensors?

[aarongalve]

Originally Posted by BdSM n54iS

O2 sensors?

can bad o2 sensors cause all of this?

[IllSic_Design]

I had cylinder injection cutoff when my hpfp went out, but I also had fuel pump codes(besides usual 2aaf) and I think misfire codes. Best way to check is to log the rail pressure and when this happens check to see if the rail pressure drops super low.

[aarongalve]

Originally Posted by IllSic_Design

I had cylinder injection cutoff when my hpfp went out, but I also had fuel pump codes(besides usual 2aaf) and I think misfire codes. Best way to check is to log the rail pressure and when this happens check to see if the rail pressure drops super low.

ok ill check it out

[aarongalve]

Originally Posted by IllSic_Design

I had cylinder injection cutoff when my hpfp went out, but I also had fuel pump codes(besides usual 2aaf) and I think misfire codes. Best way to check is to log the rail pressure and when this happens check to see if the rail pressure drops super low.

The codes came up in this order:
Crankshaft sensor
cylinder injection cutout
after limping it back home the o2 sensors came up.
Before the o2 sensor came up and I cleared it and never came back until now.
Should I buy some new o2 sensors and a crankshaft sensor before buying the hpfp?
Once I wake up tomorrow ill do some data logs to check the rail pressure.

[aarongalve]

Ok started it up cold start and went to the gas station. Car working perfectly no hiccups or anything. I leave the gas station and it starts to hiccup again near 3-4k rpm. Then I get a check engine light and misfire on cylinder 5. Then the light disappeared when I got near my house. btw the trip to the gas station to my home is less than 2 minutes. I got 2 logs from the event.
https://datazap.me/u/aarongalve/log-...ta=15-16-21-22
https://datazap.me/u/aarongalve/log-...og=0&data=3-22

I was looking at my gauges and my lambda bank 1 afr was higher than my bank 2 like double the amount when I'm accelerating. That is also when my rpm starts to look like a staircase. I need some help on figuring this one out. Im guessing its my o2 sensors kicking in when the car warmed up idk. Can someone give me tips

[aarongalve]

Here is another graph from when my car was working fine enough to run a WOT
https://datazap.me/u/aarongalve/log-...&data=15-16-22

I'm looking and both bank afrs match and my fuel pressure was steady compared to the crap I'm getting now.

[IllSic_Design]

Was your last log a current log after this issue started happening?

Mine was easy to diagnose as my car started having long starts all the sudden and as soon as I would go into boost my car would start cutting out and my fuel pressure tanked. So really easy to figure out it was the hpfp.

Need more info on your issue, does it do it every time you drive car now and every time you hit 3k+ rpm?

[aarongalve]

Originally Posted by IllSic_Design

Was your last log a current log after this issue started happening?

Mine was easy to diagnose as my car started having long starts all the sudden and as soon as I would go into boost my car would start cutting out and my fuel pressure tanked. So really easy to figure out it was the hpfp.

Need more info on your issue, does it do it every time you drive car now and every time you hit 3k+ rpm?

The last log was before all this happened. And now this does it every time the car starts to warm up. The car starts up instantly.

[IllSic_Design]

Did you do any work on the car before this happened?
I just noticed the codes, specifically they say signal, which I would assume since both are saying this out of the blue that something happened to the wiring, pinched or maybe the DP's burned through a wire.

[aarongalve]

Originally Posted by IllSic_Design

Did you do any work on the car before this happened?
I just noticed the codes, specifically they say signal, which I would assume since both are saying this out of the blue that something happened to the wiring, pinched or maybe the DP's burned through a wire.

I changed my fuel injectors to index 12's and coded them. I was getting the o2 problem before but I cleared it and it never came back until now.

[IllSic_Design]

First thing I would do is check the wiring for the o2 sensors since you are getting a "signal" code which means the DME is having trouble getting a constant/proper signal from the o2's, especially since they are both saying it and it's odd that they would both pop up with the same issue/code at the exact same time. It leads me to wiring which we had another member this week or last with random/unusual o2 codes and his wires were pinched.

[aarongalve]

Originally Posted by IllSic_Design

First thing I would do is check the wiring for the o2 sensors since you are getting a "signal" code which means the DME is having trouble getting a constant/proper signal from the o2's, especially since they are both saying it and it's odd that they would both pop up with the same issue/code at the exact same time. It leads me to wiring which we had another member this week or last with random/unusual o2 codes and his wires were pinched.

Yea ill open the cover and check my wires. I did mess with the wires before when I was working on my intake valve cleaning.

[aarongalve]

Checked the wires and they seem ok. Nothing is crimped or crushed. I check my spark plugs and they are all mostly black on the tips and the beginning of the thread from all cylinders. These plugs are under 1k miles. When I changed the old ones out cly 1-6 were black 6 was the worst. This is the same case with the new ones right now. 1-6 are black with 6 being the worst. Should I just drop the cash and replace all my o2 sensors? I heard having bad o2 sensors makes you run rich and hence the carbon buildup on my spark plugs. I have new index 12 injectors and new coils, I've also done carbon cleaning on the intake valves myself so they are not dirty with carbon. I'm fine dropping the $4xx or so to get new o2 sensors but before I do that I want to hear everyone else opinions.

I included a picture of my new plugs that I just pulled out of the car.
Far left is cyl 6 far right is cyl 1

[aarongalve]

Coming from this post: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...6#post27023926
Found a o2 sensor wire stuck between my manifold and the engine pulled it out and its not damaged.

I cleaned my plugs and coils and put them back in. I reset adaptations and re-flashed to a v7 map 91 than my v8 map 93 because I put in normal 91 gas in and v7 map was the one I originally started on before trying the v8 and v9 maps *using mhd btw. Started the car and now my car does not start.

I turned burble off. It failed to flash the first time... Checked everything and tried again and it worked this time. Started the car after waiting a couple of minutes and it doesn't start. I check protools and there is a starter code= A0B4
I legit just went through the trouble of changing my starter not even 1 month ago... I have had a crankshaft sensor code before so I'm going to change that out next, that might be the problem. Ill update when I can!

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by aarongalve

Coming from this post: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...6#post27023926
Found a o2 sensor wire stuck between my manifold and the engine pulled it out and its not damaged.

I cleaned my plugs and coils and put them back in. I reset adaptations and re-flashed to a v7 map 91 than my v8 map 93 because I put in normal 91 gas in and v7 map was the one I originally started on before trying the v8 and v9 maps *using mhd btw. Started the car and now my car does not start.

I turned burble off. It failed to flash the first time... Checked everything and tried again and it worked this time. Started the car after waiting a couple of minutes and it doesn't start. I check protools and there is a starter code= A0B4
I legit just went through the trouble of changing my starter not even 1 month ago... I have had a crankshaft sensor code before so I'm going to change that out next, that might be the problem. Ill update when I can!

FWIW there's nothing wrong with your plugs. There's also likely nothing wrong with your starter. A0B4 just means that the CAS module has detected extensive cranking without the engine starting.

Your O2 sensor codes are for both the post-cat sensors. It's not likely that one pinched wire would cause signal faults on both sensors. In addition, post-cat sensor issues can eventually lead to mixture control problems but they wouldn't look like the ones you are experiencing.

So for the time being stop thinking about plugs, O2 sensors and certainly the HPFP.

You had the crankshaft sensor code from the very beginning, in fact you even stated that it was the first code to reappear. The engine will not start if the crankshaft sensor is bad so a reasonable hypothesis is intermittent operation of the crankshaft sensor culminating in complete failure. Therefore, it would be prudent to replace that ASAP. Finally, it would be prudent, while trying to trouble shoot a problem, to flash back to stock and leave it that way.

[aarongalve]

Originally Posted by dpaul

FWIW there's nothing wrong with your plugs. There's also likely nothing wrong with your starter. A0B4 just means that the CAS module has detected extensive cranking without the engine starting.

Your O2 sensor codes are for both the post-cat sensors. It's not likely that one pinched wire would cause signal faults on both sensors. In addition, post-cat sensor issues can eventually lead to mixture control problems but they wouldn't look like the ones you are experiencing.

So for the time being stop thinking about plugs, O2 sensors and certainly the HPFP.

You had the crankshaft sensor code from the very beginning, in fact you even stated that it was the first code to reappear. The engine will not start if the crankshaft sensor is bad so a reasonable hypothesis is intermittent operation of the crankshaft sensor culminating in complete failure. Therefore, it would be prudent to replace that ASAP. Finally, it would be prudent, while trying to trouble shoot a problem, to flash back to stock and leave it that way.

Thank you for the response, I put in a new crankshaft sensor and the car still did not start up. Still has the same start code. I cleared it and tried again to no avail. I'm pulling stuff out currently to see if I maybe forgot to plug certain things back in. Anyways I'm going to flash back to stock and see what happens. Thanks for telling me what that code means ill keep this updated until I get this car back on the road.

[aarongalve]

Update* checked the starter and its not moving at all. It is a refurbished one so I guess I'll bring it back and get a new one just to make sure.

[aarongalve]

Checked the starter. doesn't turn on at all. tested it at O'Reilly cause it was close by. I also tried to hook it to a 12v car battery and it still wouldn't engage. Overall I think I just got a bad one. Or maybe my car is shorting it out idk But I had it under warranty and I'm about to put it in, in a couple of days. Do you think something is affecting the starters that I'm putting in? If it breaks again I will just go buy a new Bosch one. Can the crank shaft sensor being bad break my starter? I have a new crank shaft sensor already in so hopefully I wont need a 4th starter ))

[aarongalve]

Replaced the starter. Easy enough 2nd time I've done it. Now I got a coolant leak dripping when I first started it. Was not dripping as much when the engine is off. I did a little drive with a log, my bank 1 and 2 afr are not equal I'm not sure if that's supposed to happen but I did get some hesitation when I push the gas. It was not very noticeable but I will try to drive it again tomorrow and try to find that damn coolant leak.
I do now have a 2AB4 DME internal fault: RAM checksum. code. But seems like the car is running. I will clear it and start it up again in the morning to see if this code comes back. hopefully my DME isn't fried
Also when I turned on ignition to check codes I was getting a low battery symbol on the dash. I'm going to leave the battery charging over night so hopefully that fixes itself
Here is the log I did driving around the neighborhood.
https://datazap.me/u/aarongalve/log-...=22&zoom=0-736