[colorado.e9x]

In addition to my cafe racer thread, I might be pulling the plug on somewhat of a mechanics special. Unlucky for me I've never worked on one before and could use some assistance

[overcoil]

This was going to be my place to do self maintenance. Search for similar places in your area. http://baltomoco.com

Bike are relatively easy to work on. When I was 25 and not having much engine experience (worked on karts at the track twice and watched/helped a friend work on the head gasket of a 2.0 Liter Lotus engine in a Jensen) Anyway, when I was 25 had access to a neighborhood filling station garage and rebuilt a Honda engine in a non runner and had a little motorcycle to ride in the hills.

Tip: Bike had a fuel leak from the gravity fed and the the bike was pushed by a friend with the transmission in gear and the spark plug cable hanging loose ignited the bike and that was the end of it.

Bikes are pretty easy to work on since they are small and easily accessible. Some Italian valve trains are very specialized and some electrical systems with computers need specialized knowledge. But with YouTube and if u have some innate mechanical skills...

And what you can't do yourself, you can usually carry a part easily to a machine shop or garage and have then do that section of work.

[colorado.e9x]

Thank you for building my confidence a little bit more I read that a couple times

[spazzyfry123]

Check out "Saturday's Wrench" on YouTube.

Watch his CB350 build in order. That'll get you in the mood!

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...Pq35ieq4_FO9Tg

[Smgs1992]

Worked on my dirtbike and atv’s a bit if that counts

[GuidoK]

Originally Posted by ScottSinger

and some electrical systems with computers need specialized knowledge.

For me, biggest difference is that it's often not as well documented as with cars (especially BMW's with official workshop programs and official diagnose software being cracked and available on the shadynet).

Although that might vary from brand to brand.
2 weeks ago I had to diagnose an ECU problem on my royal enfield but workings and pinout of the ecu was a very vague and pixalated picture in the workshop manual. Luckily it was not the ECU itself but a problem in the wiring loom. But really diagnosing the ecu... I'd have no clue what interface or program to use (the blink sequences of the eml light tell only little)

[zx10guy]

Originally Posted by GuidoK

For me, biggest difference is that it's often not as well documented as with cars (especially BMW's with official workshop programs and official diagnose software being cracked and available on the shadynet).

Although that might vary from brand to brand.
2 weeks ago I had to diagnose an ECU problem on my royal enfield but workings and pinout of the ecu was a very vague and pixalated picture in the workshop manual. Luckily it was not the ECU itself but a problem in the wiring loom. But really diagnosing the ecu... I'd have no clue what interface or program to use (the blink sequences of the eml light tell only little)

I've actually had the opposite experience. I've got three different brands of motorcycles: BMW, Kawasaki, and Ducati. Everyone of them I was able to get an official factory service manual. With BMW, I was able to buy the official CD from my dealer. With Kawasaki, I was able to buy the official physical book. And with Ducati, my dealer gave me the electronic copy along with it being available via many sources on the Internet. Contrast this with BMW cars. Newtis used to be a resource for DIY people. There isn't an option where you can buy a permanent copy of the factory service manual. Toyota is the same way. No option.

[TriumphTim]

Kinda depends on the motorcycle too. Parts for 1980s bike can tough to find, 1970s bikes are collectible enough to have a large aftermarket, 1990s parts should still be around.

For the 1980s Japanese bikes I have rescued, it has comes down to a few things that will make or break a project.

1. Getting the fuel tank clean and leak-free.
2. Rebuilding and adjusting the carbs.

Everything else is just cleaning, replacing (bearings, tires, etc), and refurbishing to your liking.

Maybe let us know what bike you are looking to get into? A 1980s Honda V-Four would be a different ball game than a 1970s twin or single.

Fwiw, I usually don't really mod, just back to stock...

[zx10guy]

Originally Posted by TriumphTim

Kinda depends on the motorcycle too. Parts for 1980s bike can tough to find, 1970s bikes are collectible enough to have a large aftermarket, 1990s parts should still be around.

For the 1980s Japanese bikes I have rescued, it has comes down to a few things that will make or break a project.

1. Getting the fuel tank clean and leak-free.
2. Rebuilding and adjusting the carbs.

Everything else is just cleaning, replacing (bearings, tires, etc), and refurbishing to your liking.

Maybe let us know what bike you are looking to get into? A 1980s Honda V-Four would be a different ball game than a 1970s twin or single.

Fwiw, I usually don't really mod, just back to stock...

I've run across this problem with my 2004 ZX-10R. Parts are starting to be scarce. A few months ago I needed are new rear hugger as for whatever reason, the new rear tire I put on was rubbing the hugger. I didn't realize there was a problem until a small hole was burned through the hugger. Looked everywhere for a stock plastic hugger. No dice. One place showed it was available. I placed an order hoping they happen to be the one with some lost stock. Nope. A few days later, my order was cancelled. I ended up having to buy an aftermarket carbon fiber hugger and to make it somewhat match, ended up replacing the front fender with a carbon fiber one from the same source. Looking on eBay was futile as there wasn't any stock one available except ones that someone had professionally vandalized or there's damage.

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by spazzyfry123

Check out "Saturday's Wrench" on YouTube.

Watch his CB350 build in order. That'll get you in the mood!

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...Pq35ieq4_FO9Tg

Will do!

Originally Posted by Smgs1992

Worked on my dirtbike and atv's a bit if that counts

Absolutely it does

Originally Posted by GuidoK

For me, biggest difference is that it's often not as well documented as with cars (especially BMW's with official workshop programs and official diagnose software being cracked and available on the shadynet).

Although that might vary from brand to brand.
2 weeks ago I had to diagnose an ECU problem on my royal enfield but workings and pinout of the ecu was a very vague and pixalated picture in the workshop manual. Luckily it was not the ECU itself but a problem in the wiring loom. But really diagnosing the ecu... I'd have no clue what interface or program to use (the blink sequences of the eml light tell only little)

The seller says it comes with a Clymer manual, which supposedly has just about everything you could need

[strohw]

My only recommendation is to look at basic wear parts. It's one thing to have something not working and knowing you may need to spend some money to get it working. It's another thing when you have to deal with that and overall lack of proper maintenance as the price really starts to go up.

When you look at the bike check out the tires, brakes, suspension, look inside the gas tank for rust and look around the bike for signs of leaks like near the carbs. You should have a good idea on what you're getting into. Also, just as a general comment, if people can't get something working then in my experience general maintenance is also very poor. It's much rarer to find a unfinished project with a lot of new parts but it's being sold because the person has no time.

[Efthreeoh]

I'll chime in.

Been a life long motorcyclist from 13 years old. My first motorcycle was a dirt bike, a 1974 Indian ME100A (Googleit ). Even in 1974 it was almost impossible to get parts for it. The bike used a Taiwanese copy of a Rotax 100cc thumper. The shifter mechanism was a POS and used a 5-bump cam plate that wore out and I had to reweld material on it, then re-file the profiles. I was 14 years old at the time... It was a great learning experience.

Anyway, I think your question needs context. What type of motorcycle is it and how big is it, and what is your level of tolerance for kneeling and lying on the floor while turning wrenches? Wheel, brake and tire work is a PIA unless the bike is lifted or has a centerstand. Most motorcycle engines are compact and need smaller tools, which you may not currently have in your tool set. The valves are tiny on most engines and use solid lifters that require periodic adjustment. If the bike you are considering has sat for a while and was not properly stored, expect the carburetor(s) to be trash. That means cleaning or replacing the jets and then synching the carbs, which requires a multi-gauge vacuum gauge set. If it's really old, look forward to replacing all the vacuum lines.

If you have good automotive wrench skills they mostly translate over to motorcycles, other than the platform is a bit different and getting a comfortable work height is difficult because motorcycles are unstable from the outset and get more unstable as you remove components.

While I enjoy working on cars, motorcycles not so much. If I would invest in a lifting apparatus to get to a comfortable working height I'd like it more, but I'm not willing to commit to it. My current bike is a 20 year old Honda Valkyrie, which is a flat-6 full-dress cruiser. I usually let a pro handle most of the repairs above oil changes, plugs and electrical issues above the seat level. It's a Honda, so it doesn't break much, and I don't ride much anymore so maintenance is few and far between. I have a Clymer's for it, which has been adequate to keep it maintained. Before the Valk, I had a Honda CBR 1000 Hurricane and a Kawasaki Concours, both with in-line 4's and each was a PIA to work on.

My 2 cents.

[zx10guy]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

I'll chime in.

Been a life long motorcyclist from 13 years old. My first motorcycle was a dirt bike, a 1974 Indian ME100A (Googleit ). Even in 1974 it was almost impossible to get parts for it. The bike used a Taiwanese copy of a Rotax 100cc thumper. The shifter mechanism was a POS and used a 5-bump cam plate that wore out and I had to reweld material on it, then re-file the profiles. I was 14 years old at the time... It was a great learning experience.

Anyway, I think your question needs context. What type of motorcycle is it and how big is it, and what is your level of tolerance for kneeling and lying on the floor while turning wrenches? Wheel, brake and tire work is a PIA unless the bike is lifted or has a centerstand. Most motorcycle engines are compact and need smaller tools, which you may not currently have in your tool set. The valves are tiny on most engines and use solid lifters that require periodic adjustment. If the bike you are considering has sat for a while and was not properly stored, expect the carburetor(s) to be trash. That means cleaning or replacing the jets and then synching the carbs, which requires a multi-gauge vacuum gauge set. If it's really old, look forward to replacing all the vacuum lines.

If you have good automotive wrench skills they mostly translate over to motorcycles, other than the platform is a bit different and getting a comfortable work height is difficult because motorcycles are unstable from the outset and get more unstable as you remove components.

While I enjoy working on cars, motorcycles not so much. If I would invest in a lifting apparatus to get to a comfortable working height I'd like it more, but I'm not willing to commit to it. My current bike is a 20 year old Honda Valkyrie, which is a flat-6 full-dress cruiser. I usually let a pro handle most of the repairs above oil changes, plugs and electrical issues above the seat level. It's a Honda, so it doesn't break much, and I don't ride much anymore so maintenance is few and far between. I have a Clymer's for it, which has been adequate to keep it maintained. Before the Valk, I had a Honda CBR 1000 Hurricane and a Kawasaki Concours, both with in-line 4's and each was a PIA to work on.

My 2 cents.

Agree on getting the thing lifted off the ground. I have 4 different Pitbull stands to lift my sport bikes off the ground depending on what I'm doing. The BMW scoot has a center stand but that won't solve the issue of getting the front tire off the ground when it comes time to do either fork work or removing the front wheel. I haven't investigated any stands that will work with it.

Frankly, I'm surprised Pitbull hasn't come out with a frame lift stand such as this:

https://www.bursigusa.com/

They are the originators of this design as there have been some copycats out there. The fact they're still around speaks volumes towards their quality and commitment to have custom brackets for each new model motorcycle.

Oh and working on motorcycles requires extra attention to torque values. The parts tend to be lightened and small as you've said. The risk of snapping something goes way up when working on bikes. I hamfisted my first repair job on a I think an 89 ZX750 and ended up snapping a bolt to the clutch basket. Fortunately, there was enough of the bolt sticking out that I was able to manually work the stub back out.

[GuidoK]

Originally Posted by zx10guy

There isn't an option where you can buy a permanent copy of the factory service manual.

You can download a permanent copy on the shadyweb.
TIS is integrated in ISTA

But regarding the motorcycles: I'm not only talking about the service manuals, I'm also talking about the diagnose/programming software.
I think newer motorcycles now become obd compatibe, but I think lots of them had complete proprietory interface systems not so long ago.
Luckily my 1935 BSA has none such things

[GuidoK]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

The seller says it comes with a Clymer manual, which supposedly has just about everything you could need

I don't understand. Are you sure this comment is directed at my post?

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by zx10guy

Agree on getting the thing lifted off the ground. I have 4 different Pitbull stands to lift my sport bikes off the ground depending on what I'm doing. The BMW scoot has a center stand but that won't solve the issue of getting the front tire off the ground when it comes time to do either fork work or removing the front wheel. I haven't investigated any stands that will work with it.

Frankly, I'm surprised Pitbull hasn't come out with a frame lift stand such as this:

https://www.bursigusa.com/

They are the originators of this design as there have been some copycats out there. The fact they're still around speaks volumes towards their quality and commitment to have custom brackets for each new model motorcycle.

Oh and working on motorcycles requires extra attention to torque values. The parts tend to be lightened and small as you've said. The risk of snapping something goes way up when working on bikes. I hamfisted my first repair job on a I think an 89 ZX750 and ended up snapping a bolt to the clutch basket. Fortunately, there was enough of the bolt sticking out that I was able to manually work the stub back out.

I should fab something for my car lift, but I've not taken the time in the past 16 years or so

I bought the Sears craftsman ATV/Motorcycle lift years back. I tried it once. Scared the poop out of me. The Big Girl weighs in at 476 pounds; I figure it'd hurt if she fell on me.

[zx10guy]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

I should fab something for my car lift, but I've not taken the time in the past 16 years or so

I bought the Sears craftsman ATV/Motorcycle lift years back. I tried it once. Scared the poop out of me. The Big Girl weighs in at 476 pounds; I figure it'd hurt if she fell on me.

I remember that lift. Yeah. Sketchy at best even with my light sport bikes.

Did you know my BMW C650 Sport Maxiscooter tips the scales at 525 lbs? The GT version does it at 550 lbs.

[zx10guy]

Originally Posted by GuidoK

You can download a permanent copy on the shadyweb.
TIS is integrated in ISTA

But regarding the motorcycles: I'm not only talking about the service manuals, I'm also talking about the diagnose/programming software.
I think newer motorcycles now become obd compatibe, but I think lots of them had complete proprietory interface systems not so long ago.
Luckily my 1935 BSA has none such things

But the fact you have to go through extra hoops or go through questionable sites to get a copy of TIS is ridiculous when BMW Motorrad gives you an easy option to get the official factory service manual. I really wish the Motorrad management would either teach the Auto group how to run their business or just take it over.

As far as the diagnostic software with BMW, there is GS 911. I just purchased it for my BMW scoot. I only really got it because of the need to use it to reset the service reminder indicator.

https://www.beemershop.com/category/...eemershop.html

With my Ninja, haven't had the need to find what scan tool options are out there for it as it's been rock solid reliable so far. And strangely enough, the same seems to have applied to my Ducati although I did have issues with the immobilizer system while under warranty.

[colorado.e9x]

Y'all have given me tons to consider though to be honest as of now it still sounds like fun. A pain in the ass kind of fun. I'm thin so my hands tend to fit into areas a little easier. And considering alls I do is work on either car ramps or jack stands, laying on the ground a bit more with a bike doesnt sound any worse. Good point on investing in a lift though. If I couldn't find a way to make that happen my Dad is a an excellent carpenter. Haha

Heres some info on the bike in question:
1983 Yamaha Virago XV920, 33k Miles. Price: $850

Cosmetically it's not in the best shape but that doesn't matter when all of that would be replaced. This year and model in specific has some sentimental value to me and finding it for this price and mileage is a really good deal in my area. Most out here (all being 5+ hrs away from me) are around $1,800 and have at least 95k on them.

Here are some notes listed by the seller

Pros:
-New Starter motor and gear
-New battery
-Rebuilt and cleaned carb
-Adjusted float level and idle
-New Spark plugs
-Re-routed and replaced all fuel and vacuum lines.
-New Petcock
-New oil filter, oil, and cleaned crankcase
-Adjusted suspension settings
-Replaced all stripped bolts
-De-rusted and sealed gas tank
-Extra brand new battery
-Single side view mirror
-New OEM clutch lever
-Bolt kit
-Clymer Service Manual

Cons:
-Compression in both cylinders are a little low, adding oil to the cylinders increases the compression more than 20% which tells him the rings are shot
-Adding to above, it burns a little oil and doesn't have the power it could
-No title but be has the original bill of sale, he ran the serial # through the local sheriff's office and it didn't come up as stolen or anything like that
-Wiring seems to be a little jerry rigged

As far as registration I'm not too concerned. There's a couple ways I can try to get a title. If I truly can't I could either buy a frame with a clean title and swap everything over. Police in my area don't seem to care much about it anyways so taking it around the block for a few minutes without plates probably wouldnt hurt either

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by zx10guy

I remember that lift. Yeah. Sketchy at best even with my light sport bikes.

Did you know my BMW C650 Sport Maxiscooter tips the scales at 525 lbs? The GT version does it at 550 lbs.

So after I posted the Valk's weight, I figured I had it wrong; too light. I know it's within a few pounds of a then era Harley Electro Glide, so my aged mind and dyslexia kicked in; the Valk weighs in at 776 pounds (had to Googleit). I ask forgiveness, I've had her for 21 years, somethings I forget about her.

Apologies.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

Y'all have given me tons to consider though to be honest as of now it still sounds like fun. A pain in the ass kind of fun. I'm thin so my hands tend to fit into areas a little easier. And considering alls I do is work on either car ramps or jack stands, laying on the ground a bit more with a bike doesnt sound any worse. Good point on investing in a lift though. If I couldn't find a way to make that happen my Dad is a an excellent carpenter. Haha

Heres some info on the bike in question:
1983 Yamaha Virago XV920, 33k Miles. Price: $850

Cosmetically it's not in the best shape but that doesn't matter when all of that would be replaced. This year and model in specific has some sentimental value to me and finding it for this price and mileage is a really good deal in my area. Most out here (all being 5+ hrs away from me) are around $1,800 and have at least 95k on them.

Here are some notes listed by the seller

Pros:
-New Starter motor and gear
-New battery
-Rebuilt and cleaned carb
-Adjusted float level and idle
-New Spark plugs
-Re-routed and replaced all fuel and vacuum lines.
-New Petcock
-New oil filter, oil, and cleaned crankcase
-Adjusted suspension settings
-Replaced all stripped bolts
-De-rusted and sealed gas tank
-Extra brand new battery
-Single side view mirror
-New OEM clutch lever
-Bolt kit
-Clymer Service Manual

Cons:
-Compression in both cylinders are a little low, adding oil to the cylinders increases the compression more than 20% which tells him the rings are shot
-Adding to above, it burns a little oil and doesn't have the power it could
-No title but be has the original bill of sale, he ran the serial # through the local sheriff's office and it didn't come up as stolen or anything like that
-Wiring seems to be a little jerry rigged

As far as registration I'm not too concerned. There's a couple ways I can try to get a title. If I truly can't I could either buy a frame with a clean title and swap everything over. Police in my area don't seem to care much about it anyways so taking it around the block for a few minutes without plates probably wouldnt hurt either

My first street bike was a '82 Yamaha Seca 650, so I'm fond of old Yammies. The worst sounds like you just need to pull the cylinders and overbore (if required) with a set of new pistons.

[colorado.e9x]

Doesn't sound horrible, I think there's a local shop or two that'd be able to do it. Other than that it seems like they're solid bikes eh?