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      01-25-2021, 04:20 PM   #1
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Red face New to MHD logs

I recently tuned my 2013 335i xDrive E92 with the n55 engine to stage 2+ E30 map with VRSF chargepipe, VRSF downpipe, BMS intake, and am planning to install a VRSF intercooler I have soon. I'm not sure how to look for errors in the logs but I did receive some sort or knock or misfire when flooring it in 3rd gear. I did not log then but have been logging continuously after. I put in about 70/30 of 93/E85 and definitely feel the power difference but also notice the engine sounds different, which I assume is normal after doing such a tune. I ordered new step colder spark plugs as MHD advertises up to 390hp stage 2+, which I've read step colder plugs may be recommended after 75+ hp gains and fuel modification. I see there might be some cylinder correction in the log but not sure if that's bad, also lots of fluctuation in cylinder timing. Could someone give me some insight on these logs? It was a 3rd gear pull and it felt strong, not full throttle. Could the step colder plugs fix the stutter issue?
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      01-25-2021, 04:38 PM   #2
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I just tuned a few weeks ago, so I'm new to this too. But from what I gather the E85 mix needs to be pretty dead on. From my research my 2009 e93 335i requires 5.85 gallons of e85 to top off a tank of 93 octane in order to have a proper e30 mix. I'm not sure that guessing gets it done. I'm also not sure if guessing wrong would cause your issues.

I do know that misfire is going to typically be fuel or spark most times. So injectors, plugs and coils would be where I started.

When I tuned 2 weeks ago to stage 1+ I got a misfire on cyl 6 at the top of the rpm band, in 3rd gear. I have index 12 injectors so I was pretty sure they were good. The plugs and coils were changed out ~ 15k miles ago, before I purchased the car. Wasn't sure what was used. I parked the car that night, fortunately it's not my one and only, ordered new Delphi coils and NGK step 1 colder plugs. Once they were installed the car ran perfectly. It had the OE Bosch plugs along with the OE Bosch coils. The OE Bosch coils can't handle the tune from what I've read. I'd start there.
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      01-25-2021, 05:23 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fgpalmer71 View Post
I just tuned a few weeks ago, so I'm new to this too. But from what I gather the E85 mix needs to be pretty dead on. From my research my 2009 e93 335i requires 5.85 gallons of e85 to top off a tank of 93 octane in order to have a proper e30 mix. I'm not sure that guessing gets it done. I'm also not sure if guessing wrong would cause your issues.

I do know that misfire is going to typically be fuel or spark most times. So injectors, plugs and coils would be where I started.

When I tuned 2 weeks ago to stage 1+ I got a misfire on cyl 6 at the top of the rpm band, in 3rd gear. I have index 12 injectors so I was pretty sure they were good. The plugs and coils were changed out ~ 15k miles ago, before I purchased the car. Wasn't sure what was used. I parked the car that night, fortunately it's not my one and only, ordered new Delphi coils and NGK step 1 colder plugs. Once they were installed the car ran perfectly. It had the OE Bosch plugs along with the OE Bosch coils. The OE Bosch coils can't handle the tune from what I've read. I'd start there.
Hmm okay thanks for your input. Next time I fill up I'll try to more spot on with my amounts. I had half a tank of gas (about 8 gallons) so I added 3 gallons of e85. I've added a little e85 since then and might add another splash. I'm assuming have a little extra would be better than not enough. I had my spark plugs and coils changed about 5k ago but hadn't heard anything of upgraded coils. Hopefully the step colder plugs will solve the issue, but I'm still not sure about cylinder timing changes, I read as long as there isn't one stronger than 3, or 3 changes at the same time, then it's okay. But I want to know if any sort of changes are bad.
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      01-25-2021, 06:16 PM   #4
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You really should upload your log to https://datazap.me/ so we can look at the data ourselves your screenshot is nearly useless for most of us.
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      01-25-2021, 06:25 PM   #5
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The little you posted looks normal. While its idea to have no correction, there are acceptable levels of corrections. First you won't want corrections over five, second you won't want corrections on all cylinders at the same time. The correction over five on one or two cylinder indicates hardware issues with those cylinders. Corrections across all cylinders is usually gas related (octane).

But a actual log like stated above will tell the whole story. A proper log is 2500 RPM in third gear to 6000+ RPM with traction control off and pedal to the floor.
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      01-25-2021, 06:46 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by TunafishE93 View Post
The little you posted looks normal. While its idea to have no correction, there are acceptable levels of corrections. First you won't want corrections over five, second you won't want corrections on all cylinders at the same time. The correction over five on one or two cylinder indicates hardware issues with those cylinders. Corrections across all cylinders is usually gas related (octane).

But a actual log like stated above will tell the whole story. A proper log is 2500 RPM in third gear to 6000+ RPM with traction control off and pedal to the floor.
Okay thanks for this info, I'll make sure to log with your recommendations. I had two -3 corrections so I hope that is normal. Scared to floor it to high rpm cus of the knock but maybe some extra e85 will help, I didn't do perfect measurement because my car had gas in it already
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      01-25-2021, 08:59 PM   #7
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Okay thanks for this info, I'll make sure to log with your recommendations. I had two -3 corrections so I hope that is normal. Scared to floor it to high rpm cus of the knock but maybe some extra e85 will help, I didn't do perfect measurement because my car had gas in it already
So there I am ready to log my run, started logging and then got to an on ramp and floored it in manual sport mode. Going through 2, 3, 4, 5, then 6, shifting at about 5k rpm because I didn't want any knock, I then get reduced power once I hit around 120mph. There was no stuttering or knock sounds but the car quickly slowed down, I stop the log, and I don't try to push it again. Checking the log it seems to not have recorded any of my pull and showed basically everything until that point. I put in half a gallon of 93 thinking it would help, starting the car up after getting gas the car starts up with no reduced power and sounds normal on the way home, but I haven't pushed it again. Think I'm going to just wait for the new sparks to push it again and log.
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      01-26-2021, 12:15 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Cryptikz View Post
So there I am ready to log my run, started logging and then got to an on ramp and floored it in manual sport mode. Going through 2, 3, 4, 5, then 6, shifting at about 5k rpm because I didn't want any knock, I then get reduced power once I hit around 120mph. There was no stuttering or knock sounds but the car quickly slowed down, I stop the log, and I don't try to push it again. Checking the log it seems to not have recorded any of my pull and showed basically everything until that point. I put in half a gallon of 93 thinking it would help, starting the car up after getting gas the car starts up with no reduced power and sounds normal on the way home, but I haven't pushed it again. Think I'm going to just wait for the new sparks to push it again and log.
When is the last time you did plugs/coils on your car?
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      01-26-2021, 09:22 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by lookalikehuuh View Post
When is the last time you did plugs/coils on your car?
I changed all coils and plugs about 5k ago, I installed them they're pretty new. I have NGK step colder ones on the way.
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      01-26-2021, 02:43 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cryptikz View Post
I recently tuned my 2013 335i xDrive E92 with the n55 engine to stage 2+ E30 map with VRSF chargepipe, VRSF downpipe, BMS intake, and am planning to install a VRSF intercooler I have soon. I'm not sure how to look for errors in the logs but I did receive some sort or knock or misfire when flooring it in 3rd gear. I did not log then but have been logging continuously after. I put in about 70/30 of 93/E85 and definitely feel the power difference but also notice the engine sounds different, which I assume is normal after doing such a tune. I ordered new step colder spark plugs as MHD advertises up to 390hp stage 2+, which I've read step colder plugs may be recommended after 75+ hp gains and fuel modification. I see there might be some cylinder correction in the log but not sure if that's bad, also lots of fluctuation in cylinder timing. Could someone give me some insight on these logs? It was a 3rd gear pull and it felt strong, not full throttle. Could the step colder plugs fix the stutter issue?
The difference between knocking and misfiring is immense. Did you get any codes for knocking or just misfires? If it's misfires, no big deal. I'd start by swapping coil packs and see if the misfire follows the coil or the cylinder. And then I'd move on to plugs. You've been given lots of good advice, but I'd like to reiterate that you want to upload your logs to datazap.me and share the link with us. I also find that reading logs on a computer is a thousand times easier.
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      01-26-2021, 06:29 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stewbets View Post
The difference between knocking and misfiring is immense. Did you get any codes for knocking or just misfires? If it's misfires, no big deal. I'd start by swapping coil packs and see if the misfire follows the coil or the cylinder. And then I'd move on to plugs. You've been given lots of good advice, but I'd like to reiterate that you want to upload your logs to datazap.me and share the link with us. I also find that reading logs on a computer is a thousand times easier.
I did try to do some logs but my device stopped recording so I didn't bother uploading the standard driving before the pull. I'm going to wait for the new step colder spark plugs to come before I drive it hard at all, I'm trying to burn all my fuel then get a better measurement of e30 mix using a calculator. I'll try to get a good log with my phone instead of the device that seems to not log well.
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      02-01-2021, 01:02 AM   #12
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Finally put some 1 step colder NGK plugs in and did some logs. These weren't the hardest I've driven the car but they felt strong, can someone let me know if these are all good? I see there's sometimes 2 different cylinders correcting at a 3 each one. https://datazap.me/u/cryptikz/e92-n5...rk=92-41-54-56
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      02-01-2021, 10:28 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cryptikz View Post
Finally put some 1 step colder NGK plugs in and did some logs. These weren't the hardest I've driven the car but they felt strong, can someone let me know if these are all good? I see there's sometimes 2 different cylinders correcting at a 3 each one. https://datazap.me/u/cryptikz/e92-n5...rk=92-41-54-56
Did you have traction control all the way off (hold for 10s) and not let off? Towards the top of the rpm range you're down like 4-5psi from target. Your timing corrections are fine though.

Edit: You also really shouldn't be running stage 2+ without an intercooler. In my opinion you shouldn't run anything more than stage 1 (and in hot months honestly even on a stock tune the stock IC is bad) without an upgraded IC. Your IATs skyrocket during the pull.
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      02-01-2021, 11:34 AM   #14
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You should log in 3rd gear at starting at 2000-2500 RPMs then pedal to the floor to 6000 RPM, all in 3rd gear. This is like the universal log procudere to compare to other logs. How you log there's not much to compare to.

Btw if you hold traction control longer than ten seconds it will throw a code (5E5B). Ask me how I know. You don't need to hold it down that long. Just hold you will get one symbol then another and your good, its like five seconds.
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      02-17-2021, 09:55 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave92N54 View Post
Did you have traction control all the way off (hold for 10s) and not let off? Towards the top of the rpm range you're down like 4-5psi from target. Your timing corrections are fine though.

Edit: You also really shouldn't be running stage 2+ without an intercooler. In my opinion you shouldn't run anything more than stage 1 (and in hot months honestly even on a stock tune the stock IC is bad) without an upgraded IC. Your IATs skyrocket during the pull.
https://datazap.me/u/cryptikz/new-st...=0&data=3-8-13

Here are some new logs. I noticed my IATs really have been fine, never going over 70, it's really cold out so I thought these temps were still okay. I have an intercooler to install but waiting for it to warm up. One time I had some major timing corrections of 3-6 on all cylinders but can't find that log. Is that bad? I also have been running e30 and not sure how to read the STFT... Maybe the intercooler will solve all problems?
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      02-17-2021, 10:35 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Cryptikz View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave92N54 View Post
Did you have traction control all the way off (hold for 10s) and not let off? Towards the top of the rpm range you're down like 4-5psi from target. Your timing corrections are fine though.

Edit: You also really shouldn't be running stage 2+ without an intercooler. In my opinion you shouldn't run anything more than stage 1 (and in hot months honestly even on a stock tune the stock IC is bad) without an upgraded IC. Your IATs skyrocket during the pull.
https://datazap.me/u/cryptikz/new-st...38;data=3-8-13

Here are some new logs. I noticed my IATs really have been fine, never going over 70, it's really cold out so I thought these temps were still okay. I have an intercooler to install but waiting for it to warm up. One time I had some major timing corrections of 3-6 on all cylinders but can't find that log. Is that bad? I also have been running e30 and not sure how to read the STFT... Maybe the intercooler will solve all problems?
Timing corrections look fine there. Your overboosting and then underboosting, if I had to guess you need a new boost solenoid.
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      02-17-2021, 10:54 AM   #17
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It looks like everyone here is assuming the "E85" you're putting in is actually E85. Don't assume that. Measure it. Either buy the manual tester and/or a flex fuel sensor and analyzer kit.

The U.S. Dept. of Energy states that fuel labeled "E85" can be any concoction from 51-83% ethanol. It can also vary by region and climate.

So, without measuring, you have no idea what your actual blend is.
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      02-17-2021, 11:34 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Emilime75 View Post
It looks like everyone here is assuming the "E85" you're putting in is actually E85. Don't assume that. Measure it. Either buy the manual tester and/or a flex fuel sensor and analyzer kit.

The U.S. Dept. of Energy states that fuel labeled "E85" can be any concoction from 51-83% ethanol. It can also vary by region and climate.

So, without measuring, you have no idea what your actual blend is.
+1 lol
My assumption was is if you're running E85 you're testing it lol
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      02-17-2021, 05:50 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave92N54 View Post
+1 lol
My assumption was is if you're running E85 you're testing it lol
So fuel could be the problem? I'll add some more e85 to see if it helps. I'm planning to go on a 400 mile road trip, would I be okay driving on a similar mixture I am now before testing? Or should I use another car?

What kind of timing corrections are concerning? My spark plugs are gapped at .022 as this is what I saw most people put the step colder ones at. The car seems to drive fine I've only been concerned with the numbers in the logs as sometimes it reaches a 6 correction, I'm not sure if the boost solenoid wearing out would cause a noticeable driving difference.

Thank you for all the insight it's much appreciated!
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      02-17-2021, 09:10 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Cryptikz View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave92N54 View Post
+1 lol
My assumption was is if you're running E85 you're testing it lol
So fuel could be the problem? I'll add some more e85 to see if it helps. I'm planning to go on a 400 mile road trip, would I be okay driving on a similar mixture I am now before testing? Or should I use another car?

What kind of timing corrections are concerning? My spark plugs are gapped at .022 as this is what I saw most people put the step colder ones at. The car seems to drive fine I've only been concerned with the numbers in the logs as sometimes it reaches a 6 correction, I'm not sure if the boost solenoid wearing out would cause a noticeable driving difference.

Thank you for all the insight it's much appreciated!
My understanding is timing corrections aren't too big of a deal if they're less than 3 and on less than 3 cylinders, even better if across different banks
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      02-17-2021, 10:54 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave92N54 View Post
My understanding is timing corrections aren't too big of a deal if they're less than 3 and on less than 3 cylinders, even better if across different banks
I just did some logs and got corrections of higher than 3, and on 3 cylinders. Could this really just be the fuel? What kind of problems could occur if this keeps happening? The car really seems to be driving fine. https://datazap.me/u/cryptikz/lots-h...-29&zoom=0-195
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      02-18-2021, 07:57 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cryptikz View Post
I just did some logs and got corrections of higher than 3, and on 3 cylinders. Could this really just be the fuel? What kind of problems could occur if this keeps happening? The car really seems to be driving fine. https://datazap.me/u/cryptikz/lots-h...-29&zoom=0-195
Yep, try different fuel. And since there's a lot of volatility in the weather now, I would not really try to draw many conclusions. You are looking for consistent events.
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