Air Conditioner will not cool for first 5 minutes.

Tomnavigator · 08-04-2021, 02:19 AM

I live in South Louisiana. The temperatures are running 95 to 97 daily with the humidity in the upper 90%. I am retired and usually don't need to go anywhere early in the day. I get in my car to drive to the store (usual temp 95). The car is parked outside and the inside temperature of the car is 120 or higher. The car blows hot air out the A/C no matter what I do to turn on the A/C. I can leave the A/C on, turn it off and back on, turn it to MAX, turn the temp down to minimum. I have tried everything. During this time the air blowing out the vents is very HOT. I put a thermometer in the vent and the temp is 110 to 120. It does not change very much for the next couple of minutes. I drive about two miles (three to four minutes) before the A/C starts to work. When the A/C comes on you can feel an instant temperature reduction in the air coming out the vent. In about five seconds you can feel the temperature drop significantly. It is like BMW has programmed the A/C to not work until the engine warms up. This is intolerable in south Louisiana. I am dying of heat stroke by the time the A/C starts. I live out in the country and get to about the same place in the road about two miles from my house when the A/C starts working every time. Does anyone know if BMW programs the A/C to not work until something is triggered in the warmup sequence of the engine. If so, can this be overwritten. Who wants to live with a car that blows 130 degree air for the first four or five minutes when their car is first started on hot days. Keep in mind that this problem only happens the first time the car is started after the car has been sitting over night. I know the A/C compressor is not running and the car is not low on freon. Something is keeping the A/C turned off until the car is driven for a few minutes. Everything works like normal any other time of the day except during the first initial startup of the day on hot miserable days. Hopefully it is just a temperature sensor somewhere that needs to be replaced. I replaced the water pump and thermostat recently as part of my preventative maintenance program not because they were acting up and changing the water pump and thermostat have not had any effect on the A/C problem.
I hope this can be resolved before it kills an old man. Help! Wilting in the south Louisiana sauna.

kbsilver · 08-04-2021, 09:20 AM

How old is your battery? If battery voltage is low, the car inhibits high electrical usage (HVAC) until the battery is charged a bit. I've noticed this a few times when car has been sitting an extended length of time.

If the battery is getting critically weak where the car might not start, the car will typically start complaining (Low voltage, excessive discharge).

Tomnavigator · 08-04-2021, 11:11 PM

KBSilver,
Thanks for the reply. You don't know how much I appreciate your reply. I will check out the battery. The battery is only a couple of years old. But, I had no way to register it when it was bought and that may very well be the problem. I have not had any issues with the battery and never thought that the battery could be causing the A/C problem. I will check it out. The car is killing me (heat). I have five cars and keep them all on battery tenders at all times to keep the batteries charged . I go out to my car, disconnect the battery charger, get in the car, and drive off. When I get home I immediately put my car back on their respective battery charger. I thought I was doing what is good for the cars by doing this. But I can see that the battery may be causing the issue especially since since I never registered the battery.
The first thing I will try is to register the battery even though it is no longer new. It may be too late to help. But, I don't know anything else to try other than spending the money to replace a perfectly good the battery.

I have been keeping all my vehicles on battery battery tender trickle chargers for about 20 years now. Before I retired a couple of years ago, I had 10 cars, 2 motorcycles, 2 tractors, 1 zero turn mower and a boat, All were on battery tenders. My batteries typically last around 10 years by keeping them on the chargers all the time. My record is 13 years for my Honda goldwing GL1800. I ruined a few batteries through overcharging until I found the "Battery Tender Junior" by Deltran. Now my batteries last and last and last. I am a car nut and don't know when to say "I have enough vehicles. So I have had too many vehicles for years now. My current vehicles are 2003 Corvette, 2006 VW beetle diesel (wife's), 2004 VW touareg V-10 diesel, 2001 silverado 6.6 diesel duramax, 2020 Toyota Avalon, 2010 BMW 335D, and a 1990 Buick Reatta convertible. Yeah, I know I can't count to five. But 5 is what I tell my wife and she loves me enough to let me get away with saying 5.
Does anyone else have anything else for me to check out to resolve my A/C problem. I hope DBSilver is right and I have a battery issue. But, I would like to make a list of things to check out if the battery is not the cause.

CRJ68 · 08-04-2021, 11:48 PM

hmmm.
Pop the hood start it up and have someone turn the A/C on and off and see if you can tell if the compressor is in fact kicking on.

Could be a number of things actually Bad compressor, bad condenser, or an issue with the blend door.

I've never had a condensor or compressor issue on a "newer" car, but the blend door has kicked my ass more than once.

this might help also- not exactly the same issue, but......

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1751230

335dlci · 08-05-2021, 03:20 AM

Have the system recharged...

kbsilver · 08-05-2021, 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CRJ68

hmmm.
Pop the hood start it up and have someone turn the A/C on and off and see if you can tell if the compressor is in fact kicking on.

Could be a number of things actually Bad compressor, bad condenser, or an issue with the blend door.

I've never had a condensor or compressor issue on a "newer" car, but the blend door has kicked my ass more than once.

this might help also- not exactly the same issue, but......

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1751230

If I'm not mistaken the E90 does not have a clutch on the compressor thus is always engaged. It uses a electronically controlled variable displacement arrangement.

604x5 · 08-05-2021, 09:37 AM

Have you had the system evacuated and recharged? That's the first thing I do when diagnosing an AC issue. Simply checking pressures is not going to give you the full picture.

Tomnavigator · 08-05-2021, 08:23 PM

Thanks to CRJ68, 355dici, 604X5, and kb silver for taking the time to reply and help me with this. I promise to listen to all suggestions and try most if not all.
I looked at the compressor to see if it is running as cRJ68 suggested. I agree with kbsilver about the clutch. I don't see a typical A/C clutch so it appears the compressor runs all the time.
I have done all my A/C work on my cars for the last 50 years. I put gauges on it and the pressure is fine. I did not pull a vacuum on the system and recharge it. That may be done in the future but not not. The system works too good and works perfect except for this weird first 5 minutes on hot days after car sits for hours or days without running.
I read the posting CRJ68 listed for me. Those issues sound alot like the problem I am having and that goes back to the computer turning off the A/C because of battery issues.
I tried to register my battery with my Foxwell 520. The foxwell program for battery registration sucks green turnips. My only choice was BMW battery or other. When I chose other. It said I needed to run the battery program in progman. I don't have progman. I think I saw that you can register a battery in INPA. I will try that later.
PS: I am glad to know that there is not an A/C clutch. I was thinking about running a 12 volt jumper wire to the A/C clutch to force the compressor on. I guess I won't try that since there is no A/C clutch.

I guess I am showing my age. But, I am not a fan of the direction vehicle manufacturers are taking to squeeze the last 0.1 MPG out of the vehicle and the things they are doing in the name of emissions. There are too many things that are computer controlled that make things not work correctly for apparently unknown reasons. A couple of examples of this are things such as kbsilver told me about the car not allowing the a/c to run if the battery is not charged enough yet. I don't care if the battery needs a little more charge. Give me the a/c now. another example is I read a few years ago that BMW had some of their cars programmed to charge the battery only when coasting and slowing down. I have a friend that needs to buy a new battery for his BMW every two years because he drives like a race car driver. accererate hard, brake hard, never coast. My third issue is the emission controls on the 335d. I bought my car used with just under 50k. It now had 90k. I have driven it less than 1000 miles without a trouble light on. I don't ignore trouble lights. I bought two different scantools and keep both in my BMW so I can read the codes every time I drive it. I finally gave up on writing down the codes and trying to fix the emissions issues after NOx sensor issues (both sensors), DEF level sensors multiple times, DEF temperature sensors, etc. My son lives in Dallas and has a friend who coded his 335d emissions equipment out. He did not get a performance tune. His tune only deletes the emissions equipment. His car gets almost 40 mpg with mixed highway city driving in the Dallas area. He now does not worry about carbon buildup or any other emissions related issues. Ford just announced that they are no longer going to offer their 6 cylinder diesel in their F150 pickup trucks. They only came out with this engine two years ago. Talk about a huge amount of money wasted on development, tooling, etc. I think this decision is because of the problems with the emissions control equipment (warranty claims). I used to work as an engineer for GM at the Corvette plant in Bowling Green, KY. It takes about 5 billion dollars to develop a new engine. I think Ford knows there is almost no way to design the controls to be dependable. I think the days of the diesel are almost over. I have a 2001 silverado 2500HD duramax diesel, a 2004 VW touareg V10 diesel, a 2006 VW beetle diesel, and my 335d diesel. I drove a 2004 Passat for 250,000 miles and got rid of it a couple of years ago so I could drive my 335d. The passat was perfectly dependable, got 41 mpg, and drove like new at 250,000. I did maintain it are kept it in good shape. I spent about $1,000 on parts (control arms, struts, shocks, brakes, timing belts, water pump, etc) in 250,000 miles. I spent twice this much on my 335d in the last 40,000. and now have DSC issues (three ABS lights). Most of my and other BMW owners issues are all emission related as we all know.

335dlci · 08-05-2021, 11:19 PM

So did you have it serviced?

Tomnavigator · 08-06-2021, 03:49 AM

335dici I have not serviced the a/c yet. I am making a list of items to try based on three criteria. Cheap, fast, and most likely. I will do the free ones first. The first things on my list were to check to see if the compressor is running, check the freon pressures (also shows if compressor is running) and to try to register the battery. I will do the items that take more time and cost more later.
From what I know about BMW they way they make one thing dependent on something else being just right to work. I won't be surprised to find out that my problem is caused because I replaced my battery and did not register the new battery.
I checked my a/c compressor and it does not have a clutch. It is always running. I checked my freon pressure and it is fine. I registered my battery. Now I have to drive the car a few times to see if that fixes the problem. This may take a while because I am retired and only drive somewhere a couple of times a week and I will have to drive it a few times to know if the problem is still there or fixed. Also since the problem only happens when the car sits for a few days and when it is miserable hot outside, I only get to check to see if it is fixed once or twice a week at the most.
What gets me about this is that I can predict within a few seconds when my a/c will start working. I am always driving by a the same house on the side of the road when the a/c starts cooling. The fan will be blowing hot air and you can instantly feel the difference when the a/c starts working.
I am making a list of all suggestions other BMW owners are giving me and will work down the list and do everything on the list until the problem is fixed. I am culling no suggestions. They will all be done until this problem is fixed.
I registered the battery using my Foxwell 510 elite. This did not ask me if I had a new AGM or lead acid battery and did not ask me what amp hour rating of the new battery. It just wanted to know if the battery was BMW or not. I will try to register the battery again with INPA later when I get INPA working on my laptop.
One problem I have with this car is that it seems like you can never really remove domething from your list of things to do. I also have an issue with my ABS and have to replace my DSC. I programmed the replacement DSC and am getting error codes 5DD0 and 5DD2 which indicates the DSC needs calibrating. INPA is supposed to be able to calibrate the DSC. So I calibrate the DSC. Still have the trouble codes. So I investigate again and find out that if that does not work you should reset the sensors and steering angle sensor . So I do this and find out INPA won't reset the steering angle sensor. So I use my foxwell and reset the steering angle sensor. Now the codes should go away after you drive the car a bit. Well after three or four drives I still have the 5dd0, and 6dd2 error codes. Now I have to try using different software (INSTA-D) to recalibrate the DSC. It seems to go on and on and on with this car. Why does everything have to be so difficult and nothing straight forward.
I don't know of any other car company that makes a car that does not run right when you replace the battery. With a BMW you have to tell the car if the battery is AGM or lead/Acid and what size the battery is. Heaven forbid, what would the car do if you installed a lithium battery in the car. Would it explode or just become a lawn ornament? I can accept that letting the car know more about the battery would allow the car to charge the battery more efficiently and therefore the battery would last longer. But, I do not accept that the car won't run right and the computer turns off things like the a/c.
I also have a problem with a car that has a button so you can turn off the traction control system and drive the car with this system disabled. But the cruise control won't work if the ABS lights are on because DSC needs the traction control sensors recalibrated. The lateral acceleration sensors and steering angle sensors have nothing to do with the cruise control working properly and safely.

335dlci · 08-06-2021, 10:08 AM

So as a professional. My professional advise is to have the system serviced to check freon capacity...a system wont work correctly without the right amount. Too little or too much. It doesnt work correctly. Honestly i stopped reading your response after you said you havent had it serviced.

kbsilver · 08-06-2021, 02:51 PM

Being we're talking about the 335D. My 2011 has 120K miles. Needed carbon cleaning at 54K where it also got an ECU update, DEF tank replaced from the bad temp sensor, one NOx sensor and MAF sensor, all under warranty. I changed the glow plug controller myself when it went bad.

Amazingly enough, engine/emission wise that's it. The most reliable car I've owned. 100% stock including a working emission system, no CEL. A/C system never touched. I never used any additives, still have all original injectors. It only uses 1 quart of DEF per 1000 miles.

I was planning on replacing the car a while ago but it's uncanny reliability and great MPG, I keep putting it off.

604x5 · 08-06-2021, 04:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 335dlci

So as a professional. My professional advise is to have the system serviced to check freon capacity...a system wont work correctly without the right amount. Too little or too much. It doesnt work correctly. Honestly i stopped reading your response after you said you havent had it serviced.

My thoughts exactly.

CRJ68 · 08-06-2021, 10:10 PM

yeah many times it's much cheaper to just pay the $100 to have a pro diagnose it for you.

Tomnavigator · 08-07-2021, 10:16 PM

It is nice to hear people say their car has been the most dependable car they have ever owned. Mine hasn't been for me. Hopefully, it will be in the future. I am not ready to give up on it yet.
I drove my 335D today and the A/C was working as soon as I started it up. It is too early to say that registering the battery fixed it. But, it sure was nice having A/C from the get go. It will take be a couple more weeks to be sure because I don't drive it every day and it seems to only act up after the car sits a few days. I'll let everyone know.

335dlci · 08-08-2021, 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tomnavigator

It is nice to hear people say their car has been the most dependable car they have ever owned. Mine hasn't been for me. Hopefully, it will be in the future. I am not ready to give up on it yet.
I drove my 335D today and the A/C was working as soon as I started it up. It is too early to say that registering the battery fixed it. But, it sure was nice having A/C from the get go. It will take be a couple more weeks to be sure because I don't drive it every day and it seems to only act up after the car sits a few days. I'll let everyone know.

Registerinf the battery wont fix this. Again. Have the system serviced. I have been a bmw tech for over 16 years now.

Tomnavigator · 08-08-2021, 04:19 PM

335dici Next time the a/c acts up I will follow your recommendation and service the a/c. Thanks for the suggestion.

Tomnavigator · 08-12-2021, 08:29 PM

Update on my A/C not working on hot days after sitting for a couple of days.
I drove my car today and the A/C did not start working until I got to the same house a couple of miles from my house. It always starts working within the same 0.1 mile section of road. Registering my battery did not work. I am now going to service the A/C per suggestion from 336dici. I have done all my A/C work on my cars since the days of Freon 12 and will do the servicing myself. I have an A/C vacuum pump and will make sure the car gets the right amount for 134a. My A/C works fine and I have no issues with it other than the first start after sitting a few days when the temperature is hot. The air coming out of the vents is 43 degrees which is about as good as it gets. However, I have learned that BMW has a habit of programming the car to throw trouble codes and shut stuff down at almost any excuse.
The only thing else I can do from the suggestions I received would be to replace the battery as per jbsilver's recommendation. I will do this even though the battery cranks the engine strongly and does not appear to have any voltage issues. I keep my car on a trickle charger and the battery should be fully charged. From what I now know about BMW, I can very easily see that BMW would program the car to not allow the A/C to work because of some insignificant issue with the battery voltage or charging rate even though the battery would be working fine (but not perfect). I would then pay to have the dealership recode the car and register the new battery (dealership 50 miles away) since I have not had any luck doing it myself and want to make sure this issue is resolved.

335dlci · 08-13-2021, 09:29 AM

So you reallt havent done anythinf yet. Please update this when you have the ac serviced. As i mentioned battery registration doesnt fix ac hot issues. 43° is actually too warm per spec for ac out the center vent.

335dlci · 08-13-2021, 09:30 AM

As someone who has worked on these vehicles for over 16 years.. you still need to k.i.s.s.

Tomnavigator · 08-25-2021, 06:47 PM

Today I broke down and serviced my A/C as 335dici suggested. I am retired and have 5 cars with nowhere to go so getting the BMW fixed is not a priority for me now like it would have been when I only had one car and needed it to drive to work. I only need to drive somewhere a couple of times a week now. Therefore, it takes me a week or more to see if my last attempt at fixing the A/C worked. I really hoped kbsilver's battery suggestion would fix the A/C. I can see BMW programming the ECU to keep the A/C off until the battery is charged. However, that does not appear to be the problem with my A/C as 335dici said.
Today I removed all the freon and added 590 grams of 134a as per the vehicle sticker under the hood.
Now we wait to see if servicing the A/C fixes my problem. Tomorrow I will be taking my wife to the DMV to renew her drivers license. All the local DMV offices in my parish (Louisiana has parishes not counties) are closed but one. The open office is 25 miles away in the northern corner of our parish. This might not be a good test of the A/C because our appointment at the DMV is at 9:20 AM and it won't be real hot yet.

BB_cuda · 08-26-2021, 12:40 PM

Not a BMW tech and 335dlci is a great one.

I have read of other makes having the following thing happen and unsure if BMW engine ECU does this per programming.
My step daughter has an older 2006 Toyota RAV4. She looses engine coolant and eventually the AC compressor no longer turns on. I theorized that the ECU wouldn't let AC turn on due to protecting engine from overheating. On two different occasions, I have added coolant and her AC started working again. This was at 3 pm in the Texas heat too. Again, unsure BMW does this in their ECU programming but go top off engine coolant for good measure. Hope the test drive to DMV in northern part of parish worked out.
We have family in New Roads, LA. (Point Coupee Parish)

08-04-2021, 02:19 AM	#1
Tomnavigator Second Lieutenant 96 Rep 206 Posts Drives: 2010 335D, V-10 Touareg Diesel Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Southwest Louisiana iTrader: (0) Garage List 1990 Buick Reatta C ... [0.00] 2001 Chevrolet Silv ... [0.00] 2004 Volkswagen Tou ... [0.00] 2006 Volkwagen beetle [0.00] 2020 Toyota Avalon [0.00] 2010 BMW 335D [0.00]	Air Conditioner will not cool for first 5 minutes. I live in South Louisiana. The temperatures are running 95 to 97 daily with the humidity in the upper 90%. I am retired and usually don't need to go anywhere early in the day. I get in my car to drive to the store (usual temp 95). The car is parked outside and the inside temperature of the car is 120 or higher. The car blows hot air out the A/C no matter what I do to turn on the A/C. I can leave the A/C on, turn it off and back on, turn it to MAX, turn the temp down to minimum. I have tried everything. During this time the air blowing out the vents is very HOT. I put a thermometer in the vent and the temp is 110 to 120. It does not change very much for the next couple of minutes. I drive about two miles (three to four minutes) before the A/C starts to work. When the A/C comes on you can feel an instant temperature reduction in the air coming out the vent. In about five seconds you can feel the temperature drop significantly. It is like BMW has programmed the A/C to not work until the engine warms up. This is intolerable in south Louisiana. I am dying of heat stroke by the time the A/C starts. I live out in the country and get to about the same place in the road about two miles from my house when the A/C starts working every time. Does anyone know if BMW programs the A/C to not work until something is triggered in the warmup sequence of the engine. If so, can this be overwritten. Who wants to live with a car that blows 130 degree air for the first four or five minutes when their car is first started on hot days. Keep in mind that this problem only happens the first time the car is started after the car has been sitting over night. I know the A/C compressor is not running and the car is not low on freon. Something is keeping the A/C turned off until the car is driven for a few minutes. Everything works like normal any other time of the day except during the first initial startup of the day on hot miserable days. Hopefully it is just a temperature sensor somewhere that needs to be replaced. I replaced the water pump and thermostat recently as part of my preventative maintenance program not because they were acting up and changing the water pump and thermostat have not had any effect on the A/C problem. I hope this can be resolved before it kills an old man. Help! Wilting in the south Louisiana sauna. Last edited by Tomnavigator; 08-04-2021 at 02:31 AM..
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08-04-2021, 09:20 AM	#2
kbsilver Captain 143 Rep 631 Posts Drives: 340GT & '22 eDrive40 Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: North Jersey iTrader: (0)	How old is your battery? If battery voltage is low, the car inhibits high electrical usage (HVAC) until the battery is charged a bit. I've noticed this a few times when car has been sitting an extended length of time. If the battery is getting critically weak where the car might not start, the car will typically start complaining (Low voltage, excessive discharge).
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08-04-2021, 11:11 PM	#3
Tomnavigator Second Lieutenant 96 Rep 206 Posts Drives: 2010 335D, V-10 Touareg Diesel Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Southwest Louisiana iTrader: (0) Garage List 1990 Buick Reatta C ... [0.00] 2001 Chevrolet Silv ... [0.00] 2004 Volkswagen Tou ... [0.00] 2006 Volkwagen beetle [0.00] 2020 Toyota Avalon [0.00] 2010 BMW 335D [0.00]	Air Conditioner will not cool for first 5 minutes KBSilver, Thanks for the reply. You don't know how much I appreciate your reply. I will check out the battery. The battery is only a couple of years old. But, I had no way to register it when it was bought and that may very well be the problem. I have not had any issues with the battery and never thought that the battery could be causing the A/C problem. I will check it out. The car is killing me (heat). I have five cars and keep them all on battery tenders at all times to keep the batteries charged . I go out to my car, disconnect the battery charger, get in the car, and drive off. When I get home I immediately put my car back on their respective battery charger. I thought I was doing what is good for the cars by doing this. But I can see that the battery may be causing the issue especially since since I never registered the battery. The first thing I will try is to register the battery even though it is no longer new. It may be too late to help. But, I don't know anything else to try other than spending the money to replace a perfectly good the battery. I have been keeping all my vehicles on battery battery tender trickle chargers for about 20 years now. Before I retired a couple of years ago, I had 10 cars, 2 motorcycles, 2 tractors, 1 zero turn mower and a boat, All were on battery tenders. My batteries typically last around 10 years by keeping them on the chargers all the time. My record is 13 years for my Honda goldwing GL1800. I ruined a few batteries through overcharging until I found the "Battery Tender Junior" by Deltran. Now my batteries last and last and last. I am a car nut and don't know when to say "I have enough vehicles. So I have had too many vehicles for years now. My current vehicles are 2003 Corvette, 2006 VW beetle diesel (wife's), 2004 VW touareg V-10 diesel, 2001 silverado 6.6 diesel duramax, 2020 Toyota Avalon, 2010 BMW 335D, and a 1990 Buick Reatta convertible. Yeah, I know I can't count to five. But 5 is what I tell my wife and she loves me enough to let me get away with saying 5. Does anyone else have anything else for me to check out to resolve my A/C problem. I hope DBSilver is right and I have a battery issue. But, I would like to make a list of things to check out if the battery is not the cause.
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08-04-2021, 11:48 PM	#4
CRJ68 Enlisted Member 1 Rep 36 Posts Drives: 2011 335D Join Date: Dec 2019 Location: US NW iTrader: (0)	hmmm. Pop the hood start it up and have someone turn the A/C on and off and see if you can tell if the compressor is in fact kicking on. Could be a number of things actually Bad compressor, bad condenser, or an issue with the blend door. I've never had a condensor or compressor issue on a "newer" car, but the blend door has kicked my ass more than once. this might help also- not exactly the same issue, but...... https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1751230 Last edited by CRJ68; 08-05-2021 at 12:01 AM..
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08-05-2021, 03:20 AM	#5
335dlci Lieutenant Colonel 303 Rep 1,606 Posts Drives: 335d Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Socal iTrader: (0)	Have the system recharged...
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08-05-2021, 09:37 AM	#7
604x5 New Member 0 Rep 13 Posts Drives: Bmw x5 Join Date: Jan 2021 Location: Vancouver iTrader: (0)	Have you had the system evacuated and recharged? That's the first thing I do when diagnosing an AC issue. Simply checking pressures is not going to give you the full picture.
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08-05-2021, 08:23 PM	#8
Tomnavigator Second Lieutenant 96 Rep 206 Posts Drives: 2010 335D, V-10 Touareg Diesel Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Southwest Louisiana iTrader: (0) Garage List 1990 Buick Reatta C ... [0.00] 2001 Chevrolet Silv ... [0.00] 2004 Volkswagen Tou ... [0.00] 2006 Volkwagen beetle [0.00] 2020 Toyota Avalon [0.00] 2010 BMW 335D [0.00]	Thanks to CRJ68, 355dici, 604X5, and kb silver for taking the time to reply and help me with this. I promise to listen to all suggestions and try most if not all. I looked at the compressor to see if it is running as cRJ68 suggested. I agree with kbsilver about the clutch. I don't see a typical A/C clutch so it appears the compressor runs all the time. I have done all my A/C work on my cars for the last 50 years. I put gauges on it and the pressure is fine. I did not pull a vacuum on the system and recharge it. That may be done in the future but not not. The system works too good and works perfect except for this weird first 5 minutes on hot days after car sits for hours or days without running. I read the posting CRJ68 listed for me. Those issues sound alot like the problem I am having and that goes back to the computer turning off the A/C because of battery issues. I tried to register my battery with my Foxwell 520. The foxwell program for battery registration sucks green turnips. My only choice was BMW battery or other. When I chose other. It said I needed to run the battery program in progman. I don't have progman. I think I saw that you can register a battery in INPA. I will try that later. PS: I am glad to know that there is not an A/C clutch. I was thinking about running a 12 volt jumper wire to the A/C clutch to force the compressor on. I guess I won't try that since there is no A/C clutch. I guess I am showing my age. But, I am not a fan of the direction vehicle manufacturers are taking to squeeze the last 0.1 MPG out of the vehicle and the things they are doing in the name of emissions. There are too many things that are computer controlled that make things not work correctly for apparently unknown reasons. A couple of examples of this are things such as kbsilver told me about the car not allowing the a/c to run if the battery is not charged enough yet. I don't care if the battery needs a little more charge. Give me the a/c now. another example is I read a few years ago that BMW had some of their cars programmed to charge the battery only when coasting and slowing down. I have a friend that needs to buy a new battery for his BMW every two years because he drives like a race car driver. accererate hard, brake hard, never coast. My third issue is the emission controls on the 335d. I bought my car used with just under 50k. It now had 90k. I have driven it less than 1000 miles without a trouble light on. I don't ignore trouble lights. I bought two different scantools and keep both in my BMW so I can read the codes every time I drive it. I finally gave up on writing down the codes and trying to fix the emissions issues after NOx sensor issues (both sensors), DEF level sensors multiple times, DEF temperature sensors, etc. My son lives in Dallas and has a friend who coded his 335d emissions equipment out. He did not get a performance tune. His tune only deletes the emissions equipment. His car gets almost 40 mpg with mixed highway city driving in the Dallas area. He now does not worry about carbon buildup or any other emissions related issues. Ford just announced that they are no longer going to offer their 6 cylinder diesel in their F150 pickup trucks. They only came out with this engine two years ago. Talk about a huge amount of money wasted on development, tooling, etc. I think this decision is because of the problems with the emissions control equipment (warranty claims). I used to work as an engineer for GM at the Corvette plant in Bowling Green, KY. It takes about 5 billion dollars to develop a new engine. I think Ford knows there is almost no way to design the controls to be dependable. I think the days of the diesel are almost over. I have a 2001 silverado 2500HD duramax diesel, a 2004 VW touareg V10 diesel, a 2006 VW beetle diesel, and my 335d diesel. I drove a 2004 Passat for 250,000 miles and got rid of it a couple of years ago so I could drive my 335d. The passat was perfectly dependable, got 41 mpg, and drove like new at 250,000. I did maintain it are kept it in good shape. I spent about $1,000 on parts (control arms, struts, shocks, brakes, timing belts, water pump, etc) in 250,000 miles. I spent twice this much on my 335d in the last 40,000. and now have DSC issues (three ABS lights). Most of my and other BMW owners issues are all emission related as we all know.
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08-05-2021, 11:19 PM	#9
335dlci Lieutenant Colonel 303 Rep 1,606 Posts Drives: 335d Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Socal iTrader: (0)	So did you have it serviced?
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08-06-2021, 03:49 AM	#10
Tomnavigator Second Lieutenant 96 Rep 206 Posts Drives: 2010 335D, V-10 Touareg Diesel Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Southwest Louisiana iTrader: (0) Garage List 1990 Buick Reatta C ... [0.00] 2001 Chevrolet Silv ... [0.00] 2004 Volkswagen Tou ... [0.00] 2006 Volkwagen beetle [0.00] 2020 Toyota Avalon [0.00] 2010 BMW 335D [0.00]	335dici I have not serviced the a/c yet. I am making a list of items to try based on three criteria. Cheap, fast, and most likely. I will do the free ones first. The first things on my list were to check to see if the compressor is running, check the freon pressures (also shows if compressor is running) and to try to register the battery. I will do the items that take more time and cost more later. From what I know about BMW they way they make one thing dependent on something else being just right to work. I won't be surprised to find out that my problem is caused because I replaced my battery and did not register the new battery. I checked my a/c compressor and it does not have a clutch. It is always running. I checked my freon pressure and it is fine. I registered my battery. Now I have to drive the car a few times to see if that fixes the problem. This may take a while because I am retired and only drive somewhere a couple of times a week and I will have to drive it a few times to know if the problem is still there or fixed. Also since the problem only happens when the car sits for a few days and when it is miserable hot outside, I only get to check to see if it is fixed once or twice a week at the most. What gets me about this is that I can predict within a few seconds when my a/c will start working. I am always driving by a the same house on the side of the road when the a/c starts cooling. The fan will be blowing hot air and you can instantly feel the difference when the a/c starts working. I am making a list of all suggestions other BMW owners are giving me and will work down the list and do everything on the list until the problem is fixed. I am culling no suggestions. They will all be done until this problem is fixed. I registered the battery using my Foxwell 510 elite. This did not ask me if I had a new AGM or lead acid battery and did not ask me what amp hour rating of the new battery. It just wanted to know if the battery was BMW or not. I will try to register the battery again with INPA later when I get INPA working on my laptop. One problem I have with this car is that it seems like you can never really remove domething from your list of things to do. I also have an issue with my ABS and have to replace my DSC. I programmed the replacement DSC and am getting error codes 5DD0 and 5DD2 which indicates the DSC needs calibrating. INPA is supposed to be able to calibrate the DSC. So I calibrate the DSC. Still have the trouble codes. So I investigate again and find out that if that does not work you should reset the sensors and steering angle sensor . So I do this and find out INPA won't reset the steering angle sensor. So I use my foxwell and reset the steering angle sensor. Now the codes should go away after you drive the car a bit. Well after three or four drives I still have the 5dd0, and 6dd2 error codes. Now I have to try using different software (INSTA-D) to recalibrate the DSC. It seems to go on and on and on with this car. Why does everything have to be so difficult and nothing straight forward. I don't know of any other car company that makes a car that does not run right when you replace the battery. With a BMW you have to tell the car if the battery is AGM or lead/Acid and what size the battery is. Heaven forbid, what would the car do if you installed a lithium battery in the car. Would it explode or just become a lawn ornament? I can accept that letting the car know more about the battery would allow the car to charge the battery more efficiently and therefore the battery would last longer. But, I do not accept that the car won't run right and the computer turns off things like the a/c. I also have a problem with a car that has a button so you can turn off the traction control system and drive the car with this system disabled. But the cruise control won't work if the ABS lights are on because DSC needs the traction control sensors recalibrated. The lateral acceleration sensors and steering angle sensors have nothing to do with the cruise control working properly and safely.
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08-06-2021, 10:08 AM	#11
335dlci Lieutenant Colonel 303 Rep 1,606 Posts Drives: 335d Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Socal iTrader: (0)	So as a professional. My professional advise is to have the system serviced to check freon capacity...a system wont work correctly without the right amount. Too little or too much. It doesnt work correctly. Honestly i stopped reading your response after you said you havent had it serviced.
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08-06-2021, 02:51 PM	#12
kbsilver Captain 143 Rep 631 Posts Drives: 340GT & '22 eDrive40 Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: North Jersey iTrader: (0)	Being we're talking about the 335D. My 2011 has 120K miles. Needed carbon cleaning at 54K where it also got an ECU update, DEF tank replaced from the bad temp sensor, one NOx sensor and MAF sensor, all under warranty. I changed the glow plug controller myself when it went bad. Amazingly enough, engine/emission wise that's it. The most reliable car I've owned. 100% stock including a working emission system, no CEL. A/C system never touched. I never used any additives, still have all original injectors. It only uses 1 quart of DEF per 1000 miles. I was planning on replacing the car a while ago but it's uncanny reliability and great MPG, I keep putting it off.
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08-06-2021, 10:10 PM	#14
CRJ68 Enlisted Member 1 Rep 36 Posts Drives: 2011 335D Join Date: Dec 2019 Location: US NW iTrader: (0)	yeah many times it's much cheaper to just pay the $100 to have a pro diagnose it for you.
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08-07-2021, 10:16 PM	#15
Tomnavigator Second Lieutenant 96 Rep 206 Posts Drives: 2010 335D, V-10 Touareg Diesel Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Southwest Louisiana iTrader: (0) Garage List 1990 Buick Reatta C ... [0.00] 2001 Chevrolet Silv ... [0.00] 2004 Volkswagen Tou ... [0.00] 2006 Volkwagen beetle [0.00] 2020 Toyota Avalon [0.00] 2010 BMW 335D [0.00]	It is nice to hear people say their car has been the most dependable car they have ever owned. Mine hasn't been for me. Hopefully, it will be in the future. I am not ready to give up on it yet. I drove my 335D today and the A/C was working as soon as I started it up. It is too early to say that registering the battery fixed it. But, it sure was nice having A/C from the get go. It will take be a couple more weeks to be sure because I don't drive it every day and it seems to only act up after the car sits a few days. I'll let everyone know.
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08-08-2021, 04:19 PM	#17
Tomnavigator Second Lieutenant 96 Rep 206 Posts Drives: 2010 335D, V-10 Touareg Diesel Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Southwest Louisiana iTrader: (0) Garage List 1990 Buick Reatta C ... [0.00] 2001 Chevrolet Silv ... [0.00] 2004 Volkswagen Tou ... [0.00] 2006 Volkwagen beetle [0.00] 2020 Toyota Avalon [0.00] 2010 BMW 335D [0.00]	335dici Next time the a/c acts up I will follow your recommendation and service the a/c. Thanks for the suggestion.
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08-12-2021, 08:29 PM	#18
Tomnavigator Second Lieutenant 96 Rep 206 Posts Drives: 2010 335D, V-10 Touareg Diesel Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Southwest Louisiana iTrader: (0) Garage List 1990 Buick Reatta C ... [0.00] 2001 Chevrolet Silv ... [0.00] 2004 Volkswagen Tou ... [0.00] 2006 Volkwagen beetle [0.00] 2020 Toyota Avalon [0.00] 2010 BMW 335D [0.00]	Update on my A/C not working on hot days after sitting for a couple of days. I drove my car today and the A/C did not start working until I got to the same house a couple of miles from my house. It always starts working within the same 0.1 mile section of road. Registering my battery did not work. I am now going to service the A/C per suggestion from 336dici. I have done all my A/C work on my cars since the days of Freon 12 and will do the servicing myself. I have an A/C vacuum pump and will make sure the car gets the right amount for 134a. My A/C works fine and I have no issues with it other than the first start after sitting a few days when the temperature is hot. The air coming out of the vents is 43 degrees which is about as good as it gets. However, I have learned that BMW has a habit of programming the car to throw trouble codes and shut stuff down at almost any excuse. The only thing else I can do from the suggestions I received would be to replace the battery as per jbsilver's recommendation. I will do this even though the battery cranks the engine strongly and does not appear to have any voltage issues. I keep my car on a trickle charger and the battery should be fully charged. From what I now know about BMW, I can very easily see that BMW would program the car to not allow the A/C to work because of some insignificant issue with the battery voltage or charging rate even though the battery would be working fine (but not perfect). I would then pay to have the dealership recode the car and register the new battery (dealership 50 miles away) since I have not had any luck doing it myself and want to make sure this issue is resolved.
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08-13-2021, 09:29 AM	#19
335dlci Lieutenant Colonel 303 Rep 1,606 Posts Drives: 335d Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Socal iTrader: (0)	So you reallt havent done anythinf yet. Please update this when you have the ac serviced. As i mentioned battery registration doesnt fix ac hot issues. 43° is actually too warm per spec for ac out the center vent.
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08-13-2021, 09:30 AM	#20
335dlci Lieutenant Colonel 303 Rep 1,606 Posts Drives: 335d Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Socal iTrader: (0)	As someone who has worked on these vehicles for over 16 years.. you still need to k.i.s.s.
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08-25-2021, 06:47 PM	#21
Tomnavigator Second Lieutenant 96 Rep 206 Posts Drives: 2010 335D, V-10 Touareg Diesel Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Southwest Louisiana iTrader: (0) Garage List 1990 Buick Reatta C ... [0.00] 2001 Chevrolet Silv ... [0.00] 2004 Volkswagen Tou ... [0.00] 2006 Volkwagen beetle [0.00] 2020 Toyota Avalon [0.00] 2010 BMW 335D [0.00]	Today I broke down and serviced my A/C as 335dici suggested. I am retired and have 5 cars with nowhere to go so getting the BMW fixed is not a priority for me now like it would have been when I only had one car and needed it to drive to work. I only need to drive somewhere a couple of times a week now. Therefore, it takes me a week or more to see if my last attempt at fixing the A/C worked. I really hoped kbsilver's battery suggestion would fix the A/C. I can see BMW programming the ECU to keep the A/C off until the battery is charged. However, that does not appear to be the problem with my A/C as 335dici said. Today I removed all the freon and added 590 grams of 134a as per the vehicle sticker under the hood. Now we wait to see if servicing the A/C fixes my problem. Tomorrow I will be taking my wife to the DMV to renew her drivers license. All the local DMV offices in my parish (Louisiana has parishes not counties) are closed but one. The open office is 25 miles away in the northern corner of our parish. This might not be a good test of the A/C because our appointment at the DMV is at 9:20 AM and it won't be real hot yet.
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08-26-2021, 12:40 PM	#22
BB_cuda Brigadier General 796 Rep 3,572 Posts Drives: 2011 335D Msport, 2013 X5D Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Clear Lake, Texas iTrader: (0)	Not a BMW tech and 335dlci is a great one. I have read of other makes having the following thing happen and unsure if BMW engine ECU does this per programming. My step daughter has an older 2006 Toyota RAV4. She looses engine coolant and eventually the AC compressor no longer turns on. I theorized that the ECU wouldn't let AC turn on due to protecting engine from overheating. On two different occasions, I have added coolant and her AC started working again. This was at 3 pm in the Texas heat too. Again, unsure BMW does this in their ECU programming but go top off engine coolant for good measure. Hope the test drive to DMV in northern part of parish worked out. We have family in New Roads, LA. (Point Coupee Parish)
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