[fearitself165]

I need some help because my coolant level float is broken so I don't really know when its a good level. Because of this I ended up overflowing the coolant in the reservoir a few days ago and im guessing this is what made the pressure too high.

Anyway I took a video and im going to try and take some screenshots or post a link to the video shortly.

Regardless of what happens I think this might be a good time to do a coolant flush possibly? I already have the coolant flange with the two o-rings and the thermostat. Now I just need my water pump and whichever other part is leaking. For the pump, I see the metal ones for about double the price.. I've read benefits of both composition and metal impellers though. I honestly want to just get a composite one.

Replacement hardware is recommended isn't that correct? Are there any other problem areas that I should look into replacing?

Should I buy a coolant flush product as well?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6g5cv7hZubivXzXCA

[335dlci]

Originally Posted by fearitself165

I need some help because my coolant level float is broken so I don't really know when its a good level. Because of this I ended up overflowing the coolant in the reservoir a few days ago and im guessing this is what made the pressure too high.

Anyway I took a video and im going to try and take some screenshots or post a link to the video shortly.

Regardless of what happens I think this might be a good time to do a coolant flush possibly? I already have the coolant flange with the two o-rings and the thermostat. Now I just need my water pump and whichever other part is leaking. For the pump, I see the metal ones for about double the price.. I've read benefits of both composition and metal impellers though. I honestly want to just get a composite one.

Replacement hardware is recommended isn't that correct? Are there any other problem areas that I should look into replacing?

Should I buy a coolant flush product as well?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6g5cv7hZubivXzXCA

for what?

[fearitself165]

Lol are you referring to the coolant flush question? I suppose I got a little carried away like I always do. I was really wanting an opinion on leaks in the car.

Primarily the wet coolant dripping from what looks like a hairline crack in the reservoir.. im looking to buy a new tank so I'm considering doing a flush and fill. Curious if those products have any merit.. do they actually flush any deposits or "scale" out of your cooling system.

Also in regards to all the little spots that look like they were leaking at one point.. oil on side and bottom of vacuum pump, oil under intake manifold and what looks like valve cover leakage, oil on back of r70.. are these things that I should worry about resealing? I know that the intake manifold could have been because of carbon buildup leaking as my swirl flaps were absolutely caked..

As far as coolant there looks to be some dried on the hoses coming out of the coolant flange. Should I look into replacing the flange alone which I already possess or do I need to get the hoses stemming from there as well to tackle those possible leakage points?

EDIT: I also didn't seem to mention what happened yesterday. I was driving with my high pressure turbo now boosting correctly on the highway when a c6 corvette and several street bikes drove by me going 110 mph. Naturally I kept up and had some fun. Well a week or so before I read and tried to follow the "coolant bleeding" process, where you out your heat on high, fan on low, etc. Well I didn't open the second bleed screw on the hose and I couldn't find the one on the auxiliary radiator, and I ended up filling up my coolant tank too much. I turned the car on and it just kept overflowing for a while and I just soaked it up. Well that was a waste. Anyway while driving I randomly had a orange coolant level light pop up. I was concerned because I did smell coolant as well but it went away quickly so I figured it was just something small. Well when I got home and checked there was a little bit of coolant on the ground and the bottom of the tank as well as what looked like a hairline crack on the tank.

What are the best tank brands? Are they all the same? Or all they all made of polypropylene. I suppose you could say I don't need to replace it but considering I don't know when the next leak could happen and the coolant level float is broken as well as the tank being just overall dirty.

I already have the flange but what are the two hoses that stem from there and the part numbers if anyone knows?

As per the vacuum pump, is it a good idea to replace the 3 o rings?

Does what I believe is oil on the back of my pump need to be cleaned off? Should I consider getting a seal kit and replacing them?

And lastly I also have a clutched alternator pulley laying around, would the water pump removal be a good time to replace this as well since the belt needs to be removed?

Are there any other jobs I should look into completing like these which are perhaps alot more convenient at the time or which will save me from any leaks in the future?

[335dlci]

for what vehicle???????

[fearitself165]

Originally Posted by 335dlci

for what vehicle???????

Omg im retarded i apologize.. 2011 bmw 335d.

[335dlci]

i dont like cleaners in the coolant system. makes it harder to flush that out. drain it and fill with proper mix of bmw coolant.

[fearitself165]

Originally Posted by 335dlci

i dont like cleaners in the coolant system. makes it harder to flush that out. drain it and fill with proper mix of bmw coolant.

Right, thats fine, saves a little money on a flushing product. Do you know the part numbers of the hoses that connect to the coolant flange?

[Darkswarmer]

Originally Posted by fearitself165

Right, thats fine, saves a little money on a flushing product. Do you know the part numbers of the hoses that connect to the coolant flange?

Originally Posted by fearitself165

Right, thats fine, saves a little money on a flushing product. Do you know the part numbers of the hoses that connect to the coolant flange?

You might find it here. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_3878

I would bookmark that site

[fearitself165]

Lol ya I know of it, I am a daily visitor to real as well as bimmercat sometimes. I found the part, its a heater hose. That's why it didn't show up under any of the cooling system diagrams. It really disappoints me that there are no diys for cooling system replacements on the 335... other than t stat and water pump of course. Really there's barely any diys for this car at all. I've been thinking about making my own videos from now on.

[Bham]

The hoses are integrated with the flanges . Just go to ace hardware and buy o-rings ! Every F-Ing hose you disconnect will leak when reconnected! F-ing Germans lol

[BB_cuda]

Bmw coolant reservoirs are known to crack and leak. You need the float to be right anyway. Just get on with it and buy a new reservoir and refill with proper 50/50 mix of BMW coolant and distilled water. The coolant is supposed to be changed every 2 years anyway. I plead guilty that i stretch this time out as I might drive my 335d 3000 miles per year.

[fearitself165]

Originally Posted by Bham

The hoses are integrated with the flanges . Just go to ace hardware and buy o-rings ! Every F-Ing hose you disconnect will leak when reconnected! F-ing Germans lol

I have each o ring for the hoses stemming from the coolant flange, im just waiting till I can get a water pump before I do my cooling system overhaul.

I have the flange, both o rings, and the thermostat right now. So I need water pump, gasket for the timing cover, hardware for these three parts which I believe is 11 bolts, and now the expansion tank as well. Plus the coolant of course. Expansion tank bolts can be reused because they're not in the engine block. Is it likely that the cap of the tank is good or should I just be safe and get a new one?

Are there any other cooling system o rings that are known to go bad? What about pipes or hoses? Are there any other preventative maintenance items that are convenient to be taken on when I everything out of the way?

I'm thinking since I also have a OAP and the required spacer this would be a good time to install it, because the serpentine belt will already be loose to remove the water pump and the fan will be out as well.

[fearitself165]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Bmw coolant reservoirs are known to crack and leak. You need the float to be right anyway. Just get on with it and buy a new reservoir and refill with proper 50/50 mix of BMW coolant and distilled water. The coolant is supposed to be changed every 2 years anyway. I plead guilty that i stretch this time out as I might drive my 335d 3000 miles per year.

yes that does make sense because I'm not able to correctly level how much coolant is needed. Im wondering if I should get the $50 skp(i think thats it) that includes a new cap or if the brand is really even going to matter. I know from researching earlier BMWs the owners are very strict about buying genuine parts even over the oem when they're usually the exact same... now I have to wonder if the genuine parts are much cheaper since the cars are alot older. A genuine tank ith no cap is gonna be at least $100-130.

[604x5]

You're overthinking this, replace the reservoir and refill coolant and be done with it.

[fearitself165]

Originally Posted by 604x5

You're overthinking this, replace the reservoir and refill coolant and be done with it.

Ya I always do that. I've already got a thermostat and coolant flange and I have a water pump, expansion tank with level and cap, and 4 liters of concentrate coolant coming. Also, I ordered the 11 bolts for the 3 parts connected to the engine itself, and finally the small o-ring for the oil filter housing spindle.

Next up is the two parts to install my clutched alternator pulley, as well as rhe accessory belt. That leads to both belts and all the pulleys being replaced. I would do the vibration damper as well, but it looks good from what I've see of it.

I might just stop at the pulley and wait to do the rest all at once. Im more worried about cleaning my valves right now. I cleaned the intake manifold maybe 5k miles ago, and I removed the EGR so I'm hoping it's not getting any worse.

Will liqui moly intake cleaner help touch the valves at all? And since I already did the intake manifold would it work if I took off the valve cover?