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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Suddenly no electrical power
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11-15-2021, 05:58 PM | #1 |
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Suddenly no electrical power
Strangest thing happened. Last time I drove was yesterday. Today I unlock the trunk with my key fob to take out a ball for my dog. I go and play fetch. I come back to the car and the key fob doesn't open the trunk. I open the car door, and no electrical is working. Put the key fob in the ignition and nothing. Any idea what it could be? Battery was replaced less than 2 yrs ago.
Last edited by JunkyardDogg; 11-15-2021 at 06:09 PM.. |
11-17-2021, 10:57 AM | #4 |
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I've had something similar happen to me, was the power connection which started coming loose from the fuse box connection behind the glove compartment. There was a recall on this as well. To check open the glove box and on the right side of the fuse box search for the power cable wiggle it around see of u get electrics if so then thats the cause. Hope it helps.
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11-17-2021, 11:57 AM | #5 |
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11-17-2021, 07:15 PM | #6 | |
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My display is dead so I bought a multimeter. Ill check the battery tomorrow. |
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11-17-2021, 09:30 PM | #7 |
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I didn't read your first post. You won't be able to check the alternator if the car's not running. If you are getting around 12V from the battery, you should be getting at least the accessories to come on, otherwise it's a different problem.
If you aren't getting a voltage reading from the battery, charge the battery first or jump it and then you would be able to check the alternator output. Before charging it or jumping it, though, check the BST or the connection in general. |
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11-18-2021, 03:27 PM | #9 |
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11-18-2021, 03:39 PM | #10 |
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I got a jump and they said the battery was showing 5v. So I drove it around for 30 mins to recharge it and got home, popped the trunk, turned it off and immediately tried starting again and it failed. So does this mean my battery is dead and what could have caused it? Only thing I can think of is I didn't fully close my door. Can that kill your battery?
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11-18-2021, 03:45 PM | #11 |
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You need to get a voltmeter.
And measure both the battery voltage and alternator voltage. If your battery was 5 volt it's probably shot. You could try putting a long charge on it like at least 5 hours and see how long it holds the final voltage. Average life on a battery in these is 6 years. Odds are you need a new battery but check it first. FYI http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=986670 Battery is charged at the jump point. There is a glass eye on some of the OEM battery that tell you if it's any good . The hold down clamp must be taken off to see it. |
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11-18-2021, 03:50 PM | #12 |
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If the battery is shot buy a new one from autozone. 200 bucks. Install it. Get an obd2 bluetooth and buy bimmer code. Register it. Done. If you think it has life left use bimmercode or bimmertool lite which will tell you the battery life and health. If shot install new one. Should last a few years minimum.
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11-18-2021, 03:58 PM | #13 |
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I'm fine with getting a new battery, but the one I have I replaced about a year ago and registered it using inpa. Maybe I did it wrong so the battery died so fast? I'm also reading some people have issues with the IBS cable and it drains the battery. I just got a multimeter so ill test the battery tonight.
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11-18-2021, 06:23 PM | #14 | |
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11-19-2021, 12:57 PM | #15 | ||
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11-19-2021, 01:35 PM | #16 |
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11.9 is pretty low either way, so they can tell you definitively if it's bad.
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11-19-2021, 01:50 PM | #17 | |
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Do I need to replace that cable or can I drive with it disconnected? |
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11-19-2021, 02:10 PM | #18 |
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Not really sure. I think in the short term, meaning driving yourself to get a new battery, no. At 11.9V, it's not surprising though, that it would send a signal that it wasn't at the minimum voltage.
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11-19-2021, 07:14 PM | #19 | |
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There are THREE (3) B+ Cables from the Battery: 1) LARGE B+ Cable from BST on (+) Battery Post that goes down the front of the Battery to Outboard Transfer Point (through chassis), and then forward to Starter/ Alternator, as well as Jumpstart Terminal under hood; 2) Medium B+ Cable that goes UP, over battery, to Chassis harness and runs INSIDE vehicle to Right Side of JB (Junction Box) Fuse Panel. THAT powers everything INSIDE the vehicle, CAS Module, Radio, Instrument Cluster, A/C Blower, etc., and Exterior Lights; 3) Small B+ Cable that goes down front of battery to Inboard Transfer Point, then forward under vehicle to E-Box near Jumpstart Terminal. Are the two 10mm T-bolt Nuts that secure battery Terminals to Battery Posts BOTH snug? George |
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11-19-2021, 09:09 PM | #20 | |
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Actually, I did notice that when I went to remove the negative battery terminal, the bolt that secures it was loose. Can just a loose bolt cause no power? Because the terminal was still seated firmly on the post. So much that I had to pry with a screwdriver. Once I took off the negative battery terminal, THEN I removed the ibs cable. I'm wondering if I should try putting the ibs back with the bolt is securely fastened. Possible it was just a loose bolt? |
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11-19-2021, 09:41 PM | #21 |
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A loose connection wouldn't be causing your battery to read low. But you did indeed remove the IBS connection. Is it still reading sub 12V? If so, reconnecting the IBS will likely recreate the problem, since terminal voltage is one of the parameters sent to the DME via the IBS.
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11-20-2021, 11:45 AM | #22 | |
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https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...hoCNEUQAvD_BwE |
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