[Chapperss]

After reclocking my DPs 3 seperate times over the last few months, to stop the mad vibrations when doing left turns at anything above 10mph, I finally had enough and dropped the subframe again and pulled them out completely.

I can now see where they are contacting and it`s not where I expected. There is now a dent at the top of the rear turbo pipe which looks to have been caused by it being pushed into the the other DP.

Just thinking it through as I type, would the rear turbo DP rotate into the front DP when being pressed against the engine mount? I assumed my issue was the rear turbo DP contacting the engine mount and there is some marks in the area but the main place it seems to have taken damage is at the top.

I`ve tried to clock it away from the engine mount but it keeps returning back after driving it for a bit.

Any help and advice greatly appreciated lads and lasses. Car is RHD.

Here`s some pics (of the DPs).

RearT DP dent


RearT DP scratches, where it`s contacting Engine mount.


FrontT dp mark


Did I mention I never have any luck with exhausts

[CarAbuser]

I'd buy a new set of downpipes. Or even better, a used set that are known to fit.

I purchased some new VRSF ones that didn't fit and had to return them. I then found some used VRSF on the classifieds here that fitted perfectly. I've seen the same story repeated with multiple brands, quality control just isn't there.

There's a set of used VRSF ones on American eBay:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115082185396

Also there's no need to drop the subframe, you can manage it just by loosening the steering rack and using a O2 sensor socket to remove the pre cat sensors. You can reach the front vband from below and the rear one from above, you just need a small 1/4" ratchet and a 13mm socket.

[Vivek.]

I used N54Tuning brand ones on my car. Sound and fitment was impeccable--they are 3" so it's hard to get your hands in there once they're on (dropping the subframe as OP stated would solve this), but I had 0 issues with vibrations or odd noises.

https://www.n54tuning.com/n54tuning-...downpipes.html

[Chapperss]

Originally Posted by CarAbuser

I'd buy a new set of downpipes. Or even better, a used set that are known to fit.

I purchased some new VRSF ones that didn't fit and had to return them. I then found some used VRSF on the classifieds here that fitted perfectly. I've seen the same story repeated with multiple brands, quality control just isn't there.

There's a set of used VRSF ones on American eBay:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115082185396

Also there's no need to drop the subframe, you can manage it just by loosening the steering rack and using a O2 sensor socket to remove the pre cat sensors. You can reach the front vband from below and the rear one from above, you just need a small 1/4" ratchet and a 13mm socket.

I get you, but dropping the subframe (well letting it hang) is so easy and makes the job so much nicer it was rude not to

I`ve seen a set of new VRSF, 2nd hand private sale, but I`m worried about quality control like you say. Probably going to risk it though (but pay through paypal business) as like you imply, these pipe I have are probably trash.

Edit - just bought a new new set of ebay as the person selling the 2nd hand set seemed like a bit of a joker......

[Chapperss]

New set of VRSF V2 installed and the problem have gone - so was a naff set of pipes i`d bought previous. v. happy to have the car back to where I want it.

[ab987]

Originally Posted by Chapperss

I get you, but dropping the subframe (well letting it hang) is so easy and makes the job so much nicer it was rude not to

I`ve seen a set of new VRSF, 2nd hand private sale, but I`m worried about quality control like you say. Probably going to risk it though (but pay through paypal business) as like you imply, these pipe I have are probably trash.

Edit - just bought a new new set of ebay as the person selling the 2nd hand set seemed like a bit of a joker......

Properly lowering the subframe (disconnecting the motor mounts, jacking up the pan or putting in a support bar, unbolting the front coolant line so it doesn't rip off) is much more work than it's worth for DPs, I have mine in and out all the time, just drop the rack out of the way with a 16 and E12, torqued to 45ftlb. No issues with steering afterwards if you don't mess with the wheel, and plenty of space to reach in with a 22mm box end and a 13mm socket for the v bands

[Chapperss]

Originally Posted by ab987

Properly lowering the subframe (disconnecting the motor mounts, jacking up the pan or putting in a support bar, unbolting the front coolant line so it doesn't rip off) is much more work than it's worth for DPs, I have mine in and out all the time, just drop the rack out of the way with a 16 and E12, torqued to 45ftlb. No issues with steering afterwards if you don't mess with the wheel, and plenty of space to reach in with a 22mm box end and a 13mm socket for the v bands

I did manage to reclock the DP`s quite easily after putting the subframe back up this time. Made sure I had the Vband bolts in sensible positions which I didn`t have before.

I can see how it is technically possible. Still, dropping the subframe took me like 15 mins max, I have a support bar. Didn`t do anything with a coolant hose - just the motor mounts and the 6 bolts and with moving the rack as well, gives loads of room to play with the Vbands for the initial seating, so worth it imo.

Just seen you are in Atlanta, did you get that I did this job on a RHD car?